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Old February 11th, 2013, 06:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Danelectro U2 Bridge upgrade question

Does the upgraded pro bridge with the individual intonation also sit at an angle on the two height screws or is it screwed flat on the body? I'm anticipating upgrading the bridge on one and wonder about the wedge/centre support trick being necessary.

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Old February 11th, 2013, 09:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I put one of these on my DC2. It's about as good as it gets for a Danelectro bridge: http://www.jeffsennguitars.com/page11/page11.html
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Old February 11th, 2013, 10:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Use the existing screws. I didn't, and the ones that came with the upgraded bridge were too long, and started poking through the back. So much for my vintage Masonite.
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Old February 11th, 2013, 10:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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on my u2 pro,
the bridge still buckles in the center like the old style one.
no matter how i angle the bridge, it does it.
however, its a baritone strung with bass vi strings,
maybe thats playing a part in this.

i did try, and even with a hefty neck shim, i couldnt deck the bridge.
i need to get to making some supports for my danos,
i find it disturbing.

the solution andrewnelles posted above seems pretty good-
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Old February 12th, 2013, 09:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I've got a work in progress I'll share later.

Dashing around London at the moment.

Peter
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Old February 13th, 2013, 09:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I've got a work in progress I'll share later.

Dashing around London at the moment.

Peter
OK, here's the plan.

I also have a Dano which now sports an original Dano Bass VI neck and as with all Danelectros with the six saddle bridge made from the very low grade metal, it's sinking in the middle. Heck, it was sinking when it had the original neck and 10s on it.

My theory is that the height adjustment screws not only lift the saddle but they also force the bridge down and you get the bow along the front edge.

I bought a Jeff Senn / CJ Tooling bridge but for me it had two issues. It sat flat on the deck and I was concerned I would not get the break angle I needed on the strings. I was also unhappy with the indifferent customer service I received and everytime I would look down at the bridge I would be unhappy.

My Plan A was to route a wedge of hardwood the same profile as the bridge and support the bridge that way, but this is now Plan B as I have acquired a Danelectro raw Steel Guitar bridge base from an eBay reseller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Danelectro-r...-/121049757952

My plan is to remove the existing bridge, fit the new bridge so it sits under the existing/old bridge, support the new raw steel bridge base on steel washers and refit the old bridge. If I turn the new raw steel bridge base upside down, the taper of the existing screws will sit in the recess of the raw steel bridge and, conveniently the taper at the string anchor end will fit conveniently in the gap at the rear of the bridge.

As the new raw steel bridge base is thick, solid steel, it's not going to bend and the soft metal existing bridge would be able to bend either.

I'll need to trim the saddle screws as they do poke beneath the soft metal bridge and I want to avoid that.

I'm hoping to retain the same bridge angle, the same string break, have the space beneath the front of the bridge and have a discreet mod with retains the vibe of the original guitar.

Hopefully I'll find the time to do this at the weekend. I'll report back and let you know if it works.

Peter
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Old February 13th, 2013, 06:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have an all parts u3 bridge coming. http://www.allparts.com/SB-5800-010-...ge_p_3341.html
At least I think that is what L&M is bringing in.

I'll bet it is still a softer metal which will still bend over time. At least it should intonate better. I will make a hard wood or metal wedge for the added support. I might follow your advice too Peter. Thanks all
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Old February 13th, 2013, 11:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have an all parts u3 bridge coming. http://www.allparts.com/SB-5800-010-...ge_p_3341.html
At least I think that is what L&M is bringing in.

I'll bet it is still a softer metal which will still bend over time. At least it should intonate better. I will make a hard wood or metal wedge for the added support. I might follow your advice too Peter. Thanks all
Looks like you have to loosen the string to adjust the intonation everytime till you get it right.
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Old February 14th, 2013, 01:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I used hardttail Strat bridges on both my U2 and my Baritone. They work perfectly. String-spacing is right. Intonation is perfect. If I ever decide to put the original bridges back on, they cover the screwholes for the Strat bridge.
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Old February 14th, 2013, 06:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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jmiles, I've mulled the hardtail idea too. Any directions on crucial measurements/ placement will be appreciated.
Poast Toastie, I noted that about the bridge too, thanks though.
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Old February 14th, 2013, 06:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I just sorta winged it. I put a piece of masking tape on either side of the dano bridge, and made pencil marks as to where the strings crossed the bridge. Removed the Dano bridge.
Using those marks gave me an indication of where to mount the hardtail, as far as length/scale was concerned. I put a piece of masking tape down about where the screws would be for the hardtail. You want to mount it so you have room to adjust the pieces back and forth, so somewhere in about the middle of the intonation screw's range.
Attached the hi and lo E strings to the hardtail, and cranked it into position, length/scale/wise. Used the strings to position the bridge so the strings were in the correct place on the fretboard, and marked the holes on the piece of masking tape.
Centerpunch, carefully! Then drill. Took about a half hour.
Once you start, it will be really obvious just what to do. Pretty simple.
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Old March 21st, 2013, 11:57 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Installed the All Parts 6 saddle and so far so good. I still blocked underneath it as point of paranoia. Mildly inconvenient to intonate with the saddle screws right underneath the string. Loosen tweak, loosen tweak, loosen tweak..... hey a new band name.....

But looking at the replacement bridge design I'm thinking drill three holes and add some comp. saddles, ditch the old ones, install flat. Does it ever stop?
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Old April 6th, 2013, 04:44 AM   #13 (permalink)
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.

Hopefully I'll find the time to do this at the weekend. I'll report back and let you know if it works.

Peter
Hi Peter,

Just wondering - Did you get round to trying this yet?

My Dano U2 bridge is apparently auditioning for work as a prop in the next 'Robin Hood', and I was wondering if I should scan the horizons for that steel version you found . If it worked out well for you.
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Old July 25th, 2013, 06:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm having the same issue and I too am wondering how you fared, Peter?

My U2 has a bass neck I drilled out to be a baritone and the bridge just can't handle it. I'd love to find a permanent fix!

Also hello...this is apparently my first post here. I've been a member for years. Hah!
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Old July 26th, 2013, 09:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I used hardttail Strat bridges on both my U2 and my Baritone. They work perfectly. String-spacing is right. Intonation is perfect. If I ever decide to put the original bridges back on, they cover the screwholes for the Strat bridge.

Cutoff Tele bridges (with the 3 saddles) work great for this, too. I had one of the 90's RI U2's and sold it off when the bridge bowed in the middle. The guy I sold it to did the Tele mod to it, and then wouldn't sell it back to me after...
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Old July 26th, 2013, 10:14 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Cutoff Tele bridges (with the 3 saddles) work great for this, too. I had one of the 90's RI U2's and sold it off when the bridge bowed in the middle. The guy I sold it to did the Tele mod to it, and then wouldn't sell it back to me after...
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Old July 26th, 2013, 10:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Old July 27th, 2013, 02:23 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Very nice for a top-loading bridge and intonates perfectly... nice angle adjustment feature as well.

Perhaps loosen the strings after playing the guitar to take the stress off the bridge until playing it again.

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Old January 17th, 2014, 10:09 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I'm having the same issue and I too am wondering how you fared, Peter?

My U2 has a bass neck I drilled out to be a baritone and the bridge just can't handle it. I'd love to find a permanent fix!

Also hello...this is apparently my first post here. I've been a member for years. Hah!
Hey all, just thought I'd follow-up on my own post in case someone comes across this thread again. Sorry to bump it back up, but I picked up a CJ Tooling (Jeff Senn) bridge, as suggested elsewhere and it works beautifully on my baritone conversion. No new holes drilled in the body either, which will matter to some folks (myself included!) who might have a vintage instrument or don't want to compromise the top's integrity.

I went with the Rosewood saddles and, so far, am quite pleased. It's only been a week, so I need to spend more time with it, but it intonated right up and is holding strong. I used the shorter screws and don't believe I will need to shim the neck at this point. I am using Baritone light strings from D'Addario. Good luck to everyone looking for fixes to this!
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Old January 18th, 2014, 03:03 PM   #20 (permalink)
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PS Tuned B-B, sometimes with drop A...
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