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Old December 24th, 2012, 04:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Please help nocaster bridge pickup do i cut jumper

Hello and merry christmas , my build is finished , however these nocaster pups are giving me a headache ...... i have gone for 4 way switching so i cut the jumper on the neck pup and added a new ground wire , do i have to cut the jumper on the bridge pick up too ........... with overdrive on amp all 4 settings sound the same volume , on clean amp settings position 3 and 4 are much quieter than 1 and 2 , is this normal . Also position 3 and 4 sound the same , thank you

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Old December 24th, 2012, 04:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You only have to cut the jumper on the neck pickup. In my case the nocaster neck pickup was noticeably lower volume than the bridge. I wound up replacing it with a twisted Tele. It is possible that my nocaster neck pickup was bad though. Your series setting should be slightly louder than the other 3 settings. I hope this helped.
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Old December 24th, 2012, 04:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You do have to cut the jumper on the neck and add the ground but not the bridge. Given your descriptions there also seems to be something wrong with your wiring. That's not normal.
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Old December 24th, 2012, 04:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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thank you for the replies , i quadruple checked my wiring it looks fine to me , im stumped
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Old December 24th, 2012, 05:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thank you for the replies , i quadruple checked my wiring it looks fine to me , im stumped
What or who's wiring diagram are you using?

This is the one I used. First position is bridge pickup, 2nd is both in parallel, 3rd both in series, and 4th neck alone.
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Old December 24th, 2012, 05:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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on most control plates the switch slot is too short to allow the switch to make a full swing to the extreme end of motion…. take a thin file and extend them about 1/16th inch…

Sometimes simply repositioning the switch within the wiggle room the mounting screw holes allow will allow it to work…. you can take a peek and see of the wipers are clearing the contacts on the switch when the switch is at the 1 or 4 position..

Also…… sometimes the windings on neck the pup will be shorted out to the cover… in 3 position switching they can still work… but go to 4 way and you got problems… check continuity between the new lead to the cover and both leads from the pickup .. it should read Zero.

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Old December 25th, 2012, 11:07 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by T_Theory View Post
What or who's wiring diagram are you using?

This is the one I used. First position is bridge pickup, 2nd is both in parallel, 3rd both in series, and 4th neck alone.
now this confuses me , i see no additional ground wire from volume pot to bridge plate , and i thought all grounds had to go to the volume pot , the jacks grounded on the tone here
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Old December 25th, 2012, 11:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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this is the wiring diagram i used
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Old December 25th, 2012, 11:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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i checked bridge pickup touching black probe to black wire and red probe to yellow wire and it read 7.2 on my multimeter set at 200k

i put black probe on original black pick up wire and red probe on white neck pick up wire an it reads 1 . Remember i cut the jumper and attached an additional grounding wire to the blob of solder with the white and black wire . Does this mean my neck pickups dead or should my third wire my new ground come into play here , thank you
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Old December 25th, 2012, 11:33 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronkirn View Post
on most control plates the switch slot is too short to allow the switch to make a full swing to the extreme end of motion…. take a thin file and extend them about 1/16th inch…

Sometimes simply repositioning the switch within the wiggle room the mounting screw holes allow will allow it to work…. you can take a peek and see of the wipers are clearing the contacts on the switch when the switch is at the 1 or 4 position..

Also…… sometimes the windings on neck the pup will be shorted out to the cover… in 3 position switching they can still work… but go to 4 way and you got problems… check continuity between the new lead to the cover and both leads from the pickup .. it should read Zero.

rk
hello Ron , ok please bear with me i am a newb at all this . When i touch red probe to original neck pup black wire and black probe to chrome casing on neck pup it reads 00.0 is that correct ?

i dont know how to check the original black and white wires , also my multimeter is still set at 200k

i see what you mean about clearance , i need to get a narrower file to file the slot like you said
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Old December 25th, 2012, 11:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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...additional grounding wire to the blob of solder with the white and black wire .
Your black should be one end of the coil, and the white should be the other. Unsolder all three of your pickup wires, and check with your meter. Black lead on the black wire, and red lead on the white wire (with your meter set on 200K), you should see the 7.2K you saw before, or there abouts. Leave the black lead on the black wire, and move it to your new ground wire, it should read infinity... I don't know what your meter reads for inifinity, it will be thae same as when the meter is on and nothing is attached to the leads. it the second measurement is infinity, then the pickup is good.

If you see low resistance (under 200K) between the black and ground, look closely at the eylets and the area where you cut the jumper. There's probably a stray bit of something there that's shorting the cover to the black wire still. Your new wire should be soldered to the 'blob' on the pickup itself. not the eyelet where the black wire is soldered.

If everything checks like I described in the first paragraph, the problem's in the wiring. It's very easy to forget the two little jumpers on the switch...
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Old December 25th, 2012, 11:55 AM   #12 (permalink)
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When i touch red probe to original neck pup black wire and black probe to chrome casing on neck pup it reads 00.0 is that correct ?
Aha! No, it should read infinity. The black wire is still making contact with the cover somewhere.

The jumper that needs to be cut looks like the one by the red arrow:

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Old December 25th, 2012, 12:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Aha! No, it should read infinity. The black wire is still making contact with the cover somewhere.

The jumper that needs to be cut looks like the one by the red arrow:

thank you yes thats the jumper i cut , my pup is trashed , looks like im going to get another . Would you stay with the nocaster or could you reccomend a better fender neck pup
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Old December 25th, 2012, 01:36 PM   #14 (permalink)
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If you're seeing 7.2K across some combination of wires, the pickup is good. What you have there is probably salvageable.
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Old December 25th, 2012, 04:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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What or who's wiring diagram are you using?

This is the one I used. First position is bridge pickup, 2nd is both in parallel, 3rd both in series, and 4th neck alone.
What a nice "R. Crumb style" wiring diagram.
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Old December 25th, 2012, 05:22 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I thought the only time you had to disconnect the ground from the (-) was when using a DPDT for phase change. Am I wrong??
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Old December 25th, 2012, 05:30 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yes, when you want to run two pickups in series, you need to do the same (for one of the pickups).
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Old December 25th, 2012, 05:37 PM   #18 (permalink)
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If you're seeing 7.2K across some combination of wires, the pickup is good. What you have there is probably salvageable.
nothing reading on neck pup , only the bridge was read correct
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