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Finely Finished Discussion of painting, finishing and yes, even relicing your guitar. Remember relicing is a finish option not an affront to your emotions.


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Old January 24th, 2013, 12:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Paisley build

Well it started out as an Olympic white mim tele, stripped the old finish with a heat gun, it has since been sealed and is ready to have the paisley paper glued to it. This one will be the black so that I can build the pink from the ground up and be able to call it my own. I would be lying if I said I wasn't scared as hell to start the gluing and spraying processes because I am haha, I've got alot of money into this

but here is where I'm at right now

Stripped body
MIM electronics
Paisley Paper
Sherwin Williams- LOVOC Lacquer
Sherwin Williams- K27 Lacquer Thinner
Harbor Freight Spray Rig
Duplicolor perfect match colored lacquer
ColorTone Lacquer dies

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Any input tips pointers etc, more than welcome.

If anyone wants I'll share the link to the guy selling the paper, its good stuff!

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Old January 24th, 2013, 08:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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make sure your glue gives you enough time to work any bubbles out from under the paper, and test your lacquer on an off cut to make sure there won't be any weird reactions.and good luck , looking forward to seeing it finished
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Old January 24th, 2013, 03:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I've glued wrapping paper on before. I highly suggest you have a look here before you go, so you know some of the things you are up against.

http://www.agileguitarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=255



I'd be pleased to answer any questions you may have.
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Old January 24th, 2013, 03:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys, and yep. I'll probably be asking both of you for help haha. It's gonna be worth every penny when it's done
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Old January 24th, 2013, 10:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I just read through your glaminator build , well worth the look. I used titebond to give me more glue time , but I hadn't thought of the watering down. I will probably use that on my next body which will replace the current pink esquire I have because I want to use nitro instead of acrylic[ the acrylic took forever to harden and I have fingerprints in it }
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Old January 24th, 2013, 10:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'll let you know how the LOVOC works out
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Old January 25th, 2013, 02:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The most important thing (I think) is to either have very stout paper, or protect it with some acrylic clear so it can take a bit of finessing without getting all mucked out by the moisture of the glue.
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Old January 25th, 2013, 02:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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The most important thing (I think) is to either have very stout paper, or protect it with some acrylic clear so it can take a bit of finessing without getting all mucked out by the moisture of the glue
+1.
The paisley paper is both , it's fairly heavy at 270 gsm and it is sealed with acrylic on the top .I didn't have bleed through the back but if the glue is really wet sealing the back wouldn't hurt
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Old January 25th, 2013, 09:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
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The most important thing (I think) is to either have very stout paper, or protect it with some acrylic clear so it can take a bit of finessing without getting all mucked out by the moisture of the glue.
good thought, would it be likely for the acrylic clear to get unhappy when i put nitro over it?
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Old January 25th, 2013, 11:08 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Mist coat with extreme predjudice - personally, I've been able to mix almost anything over everthing with no issues I couldn't recover from when I did have issues I either did not mist enough or go too wet, too fast. Super blond shellac can also be your friend as transition coats
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Old January 26th, 2013, 01:45 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Did a glue test tonight, no bleed thru so I think I'm gonna be ok without a seal coat on the paper, tomorrow I'm gonna HOPEFULLY get the body glued and do an overboard test with the nitro lacquer and thinner, via straight lacquer and straight thinner to make sure it will hold up.

One question, how did you guys do the string ferrule holes? Glue then cut etc..?
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Old January 26th, 2013, 03:15 PM   #12 (permalink)
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just glue your paper right over them. The lacquer will sag where the holes are if you press down on the paper with your finger after it's set up, and it's easy to find them later. You want to have as few holes in the top paper as possible, to prevent water getting into the wood and swelling when you wet sand. Don't be in a hurry to trim routes or control cavity either. The thicker the material over them, the nicer they cut out later, in my experience.
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Old January 26th, 2013, 11:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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just glue your paper right over them. The lacquer will sag where the holes are if you press down on the paper with your finger after it's set up, and it's easy to find them later. You want to have as few holes in the top paper as possible, to prevent water getting into the wood and swelling when you wet sand. Don't be in a hurry to trim routes or control cavity either. The thicker the material over them, the nicer they cut out later, in my experience.
so spray lacquer then cut them all out? hmm, glad i asked haha
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Old January 26th, 2013, 11:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Would you recommend cutting out pickup and control plate cavities after lacquer too?

and after it cures and is hard and ready to wet sand, or when its kinda soft in the curing process?
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Old January 27th, 2013, 12:01 AM   #15 (permalink)
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In my experience , if you wet sand with the cutouts already done you run the risk of getting water under the paper , which you don't want
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Old January 27th, 2013, 01:32 AM   #16 (permalink)
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In my experience , if you wet sand with the cutouts already done you run the risk of getting water under the paper , which you don't want
touche
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Old January 27th, 2013, 03:54 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Wait as long as possible before trim you make any cutouts, it does cut nice when it is still a bit soft. But I like to wet sand a bit when it is at the two week mark, down to about six or eight hundred grit, then "supposedly" your cure will take less time.
I say supposedly because my current project is taking forever, but that's my fault for using and off brand clear coat. I think you have to trim before it gets too cured, though, because if you don't you run the risk of chipping.

I wasn't too worried about leakage, I seal my cavities anyway, with an initial sealer coat before I lay the paper or fabric.
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Old January 27th, 2013, 04:50 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Yea, I read colt knights thread on nitrocellulose lacquer and got what he recommends, the LOVOC and K27 thinner... He said he can wet sand and polish after just three days... I'll probably wait 4 or 5 just to be safe. But might cut out the pockets after 2 days, or 1 and a half depending on how hard it is feeling.

By the way, I glued it to the body tonight and it's 2:40 am here haha. It's under clamps and I have 50 pounds right in the middle so she sets good. It went like a dream though, I used titebond extended set time glue and spread it as thin as I could while it would still achieve a good stick. I really didn't even have any air bubbles but ran a wall paper smoother over it several times and looked right down the side to make sure it was smooth. The first side (front) I did first, I unclamped after an hour and forty five minutes to glue the back, and the front looked smooth as glass at that point. Probably let it set till round 1 in the afternoon tomorrow to make sure it's good and dry before I start spraying it.

Goin well so far. Knock on wood...
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Old January 27th, 2013, 05:40 AM   #19 (permalink)
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happy to hear positive progress mate, keep it up.
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Old January 27th, 2013, 04:41 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Just did the first test with the cheapo spray gun from HF and for a rookie it seems like it'll do just fine. Finishing up trimming the body and be spraying in an hour, hopefully
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