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| Finely Finished Discussion of painting, finishing and yes, even relicing your guitar. Remember relicing is a finish option not an affront to your emotions. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Stoke-on-Trent, U.K
Age: 31
Posts: 64
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Sealer for plywood
I've picked up a plywood telebody from ebay really cheap but it was finished really badly so ive spent a few hours sanding and stripping now it's looking really good well as good as plywood guitar can. Now before i prime it i assume it's gonna need sealing but i've never worked with plywood before and was wondering what to use (i'm after products available in the U.K)
thanks in advance for your help |
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#7 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Stoke-on-Trent, U.K
Age: 31
Posts: 64
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it looks like Baltic Birch and it also looked like it was home made (not to a very good standard) but like a i say it's now been stripped, sanded and slightyly re-shaped and now looks the best it can. I've ordered some of this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1708402748...84.m1423.l2649 it should do the job. I'm gonna start the neck today (Maple)
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#8 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Glen Head, NY
Posts: 2,525
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The problem you may run into is that any really high quality smooth thin finish is going to shrink back and the the surface imperfections of the plywood will print through. So I agree with you that a good sealer is essential. I would have been thinking of a vinyl sealer under nitrocellulose lacquer, or an acrylic sealer under waterbased topcoats.
It's probably the perfect job for "Fullerplast" if you could get it. But if you do that, then forty years from now people are going to be criticizing you on the internet.
__________________
"Why don't you just make 10 louder, and make 10 be the top number, and make that a little louder?" |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 4,895
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Quote:
good luck on your project! |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Doctor of Teleocity
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Age: 29
Posts: 18,923
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Too bad Fullerplast is 58$ a gallon.
http://van-dee.com/clear.htm I have been aching to try it though.
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the now mandatory =====> |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: fort worth
Age: 30
Posts: 797
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he never finished this one, but it was a fun read. I'm sure there's some great info in there for you....
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home...sive-some.html
__________________
"so why ya goin to the airport? flyin' somewhere?" -lloyd christmas |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Doctor of Teleocity
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Quote:
Suggest painting the edge with PVA (Unibond) before using a plastic filler of some kind to edge and round over. I have done similar with Isopon, problem is that tends to crack way from the wood. Otoh how long do you need them to last and how good do you want them to look? Applying PVA after shaping the edge will bind the laminate layers prior to priming and painting with a very solid colour. If you use a brush on gloss white heavy traffic floor paint it will be as tough as nails, but that has to go on thin, two coats, and takes ages to dry.
__________________
There's two kinds of people, those that hear the music and those that don't. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Stoke-on-Trent, U.K
Age: 31
Posts: 64
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i ended using cellulose sanding sealer, it worked really well. it is now primed and ready for paint. which i have just ordered along with a pre-made neck and my electronics (imported from china)
total cost for this build has been £45 including all postage which i am really impressed with |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Doctor of Teleocity
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Queensland, Australia
Age: 40
Posts: 13,398
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Quote:
__________________
You need to roll the dice to be in the game. |
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#18 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 3,010
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Quote:
Polyester "finishing" resin is likely close. It contains a wax that floats to the surface during cure. This insulates the resin and allows all the material to cure to a non-sticky state. OTOH, "laminating" resin is wax free. This prevents the resin on the surface from curing until the next coat of resin is applied... a good layer-to-layer bond results. Polyester primers were all the rage in autobody during the 70's... deep filling and near zero shrinkage. Then urethane came along. Finishing resin or epoxy would be good choice for this. |
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