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| Finely Finished Discussion of painting, finishing and yes, even relicing your guitar. Remember relicing is a finish option not an affront to your emotions. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Littlerock, Ca
Posts: 31
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Seagrave Vinyl Sealer and Seagrave Nitrocellulose Spraying Lacquer?
I would like to know the working temps (outside) for Seagrave Vinyl Sealer and Seagrave Nitrocellulose Spraying Lacquer? As I am eager to start my Tele build.
Also would like to know how many coats of Seagrave Vinyl Sealer and curing time is required before sanding? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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Seagrave is supposed to be duplicating the McFadden formula . You should be able to sand the sealer the next day , if I recall correctly . Use a light scratching with 150 , max , unless you have runs .
Two coats should be enough and only sand after coat one . Just enough to rough it for a good mechanical bond for coat two . Apply coat two and then spray your first nitro coat while still tacky , within one hour or less . This helps to provide a good chemical bond between sealer and clear coat . Yes , it is coming back to me now . Wood prep is the key . If your wood is prepped well , spraying and the rest is made simple . Never attempt to cover bad/poor prep with spray . Three coats of clear should be enough if you are good . I have seen it done ! By the way , if you have done a good job with prep , sealer and clear , you will only need to buff and not sand the clear . Good luck and post some pics when completed . Sorry , temp best between 55-65 with 50% relative humidity . |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Littlerock, Ca
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Its only in the 40's and nights get into the 20's around these parts, humidity is non-existent around here. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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Thinning is advisable . I will ask Dale . He is the man that instructed me and would know since he ran the finishing department at Martin for more than a few years before retiring . He never did compile the mixture schedules and whatnot that he promised , so I will bug him about it .
You could always contact Seagrave about what they recommend . The worst they can say is no and I doubt that they will since that would be bad PR for customers . I will get back with you after the weekend unless someone else wants to chime in on this . |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Littlerock, Ca
Posts: 31
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#7 (permalink) |
![]() Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 2,312
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Thin it
Simply put, just go ahead and thin it. If your ready to spray material is thicker than water....thin it and use good quality thinner to do it. I have yet to see a true "ready to spray" lacquer when using shop spray equipment like most of us have. Get yourself some wet sanding papers and a good rubber block/pad too. Your gonna need them.
I dont know anyone that worked for a famous guitar company but I have painted guitars totalling somewhere in the three digits over the years. Good luck on your project, Rob
__________________
"If I won the lotto... I would be a full time Luthier until the money ran out". Coffee, Sand Paper & Lacquer Fumes..... now thats a good day! www.rhomcoguitars.com Last edited by Rhomco Guitars; January 21st, 2012 at 06:23 PM. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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I usually do a 1:3 washcoat of lacquer/thinner. Sealer and build coats 50/50 and the final coat after leveling is 1:4. No set rules, whatever works for you. Alot of product come at spray viscosity and they dont recommend thinning but I find you get a smoother finish if you do.
Some info http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/Nitrocellulose.htm |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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I knew that some more experienced with spraying would add in . I will say that Dale simply knows how to thin what he is spraying and has no need to measure . I am not that knowledgeable or experienced and am grateful for having access to a man with his skills .
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#11 (permalink) | |
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TDPRI Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Littlerock, Ca
Posts: 31
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