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Old December 2nd, 2011, 11:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Polyurethane, wet sanded with 1000...what next??

I've sanded my polyurethane coat with successive grits to 1000 and went straight to turtle wax to no avail...still that dull sheen that was present after the 1000 grit. Do I need a polishing compound next.

I tried the turtle wax with a cloth...not a polishing pad on a drill.

Tnx,

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Old December 3rd, 2011, 12:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Polyurethane is not meant to be sanded and polished. Sprayed in the correct environment and with the right technique you get a gloss off the gun.

With a polishing pad you will probably achieve more of a gloss - albeit with swirly buff marks - I'd scuff it up and give it another coat. (but you will need to get every bit of that turtle wax off first)
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Old December 3rd, 2011, 12:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
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even in perfect conditions some dust an debris can and usually will find its way into and onto the paint. I wet sand and polish all my finishes not matter what it is. I finish wet sanding with 2000-2500 then polish with a polishing wheel and fine compound.
No way will you get a shine polishing after just 1000 grit. thats still way too heavy for a finish.



FWIW I usually clear or paint after 800. it leaves a smooth finish with enough bike for most paints. some hi build paint I apply after 600 but no heavier.
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Old December 3rd, 2011, 09:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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even in perfect conditions some dust an debris can and usually will find its way into and onto the paint. I wet sand and polish all my finishes not matter what it is. I finish wet sanding with 2000-2500 then polish with a polishing wheel and fine compound.
No way will you get a shine polishing after just 1000 grit. thats still way too heavy for a finish.



FWIW I usually clear or paint after 800. it leaves a smooth finish with enough bike for most paints. some hi build paint I apply after 600 but no heavier.
Will 0000 steel wool do better than the 1000 grit before going to the polishing wheel?

Tnx,
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Old December 3rd, 2011, 09:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I would say we sand up to 2000. Then use a light compound followed by swirl remover.
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Old December 3rd, 2011, 01:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Much depends on the particular product involved. Some polyurethanes never get hard enough to truly polish.

I'll second the approach of applying another coat or two. Since you have already levelled the surface very nicely go with light thin coats.
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Old December 3rd, 2011, 02:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Much depends on the particular product involved. Some polyurethanes never get hard enough to truly polish.

I'll second the approach of applying another coat or two. Since you have already levelled the surface very nicely go with light thin coats.
Maybe that's it...never got hard enough to polish. I did make some headway wet polishing with 2000 then turtle wax polishing compound...then turtle wax itself. Not perfect...but acceptable shiny.
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Old December 4th, 2011, 05:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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a good polishing compound will do wonders.
the cheapest stuff I would use is Swirl X or scratch X.
I used turtle wax polishing and rubbing compounds years ago. They were garbage IMO.
I use a machine and machine compounds but a foam pad on a drill with scratch x or swrirl x works decent.

2000 is the minimum for polishing. for black or candy surfaces I use 2500
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Old December 6th, 2011, 01:05 AM   #9 (permalink)
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3M Trizact system (available at auto parts stores) sand out to 3000 grit and polish. I do it every day on polyurethane and it looks fantastic (but it ain't cheap).
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Old December 6th, 2011, 02:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I've found that often the secret to finishing is to stick with one brand from start to finish (heh) if you can. The whole system is worked out.

1 paint manufacturer; 1 paint finishing system. No compatability issues; money well spent because you feel satisfied not frustrated. You want to finish a guitar, not dread it!

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Old December 8th, 2011, 02:54 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm getting ready to wetsand and polish a body I refinished(sprayed clear today) in Minwax "fast drying" polyurethane from a rattle can. I selected it because if its ment for hardwood floors, so its GOTTA be tough enough for a guitar. I wanted an extremely durable finish.

Im unsure about cure times and all that stuff, but I'm waiting at least 3 weeks before I do anything to it. That's just an average of what I've read online. Just to be safe.

This is my first refinish, so I'm pretty clueless about getting that nice shine... Any tips for Wetsanding the curves of a guitar?

I just want it to stop stinking...


How long until it stops stinking?!
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Old December 8th, 2011, 10:17 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I rough sanded the finish and then put another coat of polyurethan on. That went on pretty smooth and glossed right up. There were a few areas that needed tending to so I let the coat dry for 4 hours (the can says 3 to 4), then hit it with 220 as on the instructions. I cleaned up the dust then put the next coat on and, as it dried somewhat, it looked rough...as if the grain was raised. I know that can't be because there are way too many coats on the thing to have sanded down to wood. WTF!?!?! I sanded it back this morning and put on another coat that went on smooth. I was thinking I had this thing licked then it went rough again!

I'm about to give up...LOL. I'm thinking that now that I can build a guitar, I'll never be able to properly finish it!

I think I'll give the poly a day or two to cure, then sand it back level and try again. Maybe the Minwax brush on poly just isn't my thing.
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Old December 8th, 2011, 01:03 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm getting ready to wetsand and polish a body I refinished(sprayed clear today) in Minwax "fast drying" polyurethane from a rattle can. I selected it because if its ment for hardwood floors, so its GOTTA be tough enough for a guitar. I wanted an extremely durable finish.

Im unsure about cure times and all that stuff, but I'm waiting at least 3 weeks before I do anything to it. That's just an average of what I've read online. Just to be safe.

This is my first refinish, so I'm pretty clueless about getting that nice shine... Any tips for Wetsanding the curves of a guitar?

I just want it to stop stinking...


How long until it stops stinking?!
3M makes a foam block (about 3"X5", maybe 1/2" thick) that works great for wet sanding. Some tips: It takes a lot less water than you think. Wipe the water off often so you can really see what you've already sanded. Use a really good, bright incandescent light (doing it outside in sunlight is better). Fluorescent light can make your eyes overlook some very bad things. Don't oversand. If you think you're gonna cut thru the finish, you probably already did. Stop and apply another coat.

Also, you probably don't need to wait 3 weeks. A couple days should do it. Try to scratch an inconspicuous area (like under the pickguard) with a fingernail. If you can't see the scratch, it's ready...
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Old December 8th, 2011, 01:06 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I rough sanded the finish and then put another coat of polyurethan on. That went on pretty smooth and glossed right up. There were a few areas that needed tending to so I let the coat dry for 4 hours (the can says 3 to 4), then hit it with 220 as on the instructions. I cleaned up the dust then put the next coat on and, as it dried somewhat, it looked rough...as if the grain was raised. I know that can't be because there are way too many coats on the thing to have sanded down to wood. WTF!?!?! I sanded it back this morning and put on another coat that went on smooth. I was thinking I had this thing licked then it went rough again!

I'm about to give up...LOL. I'm thinking that now that I can build a guitar, I'll never be able to properly finish it!

I think I'll give the poly a day or two to cure, then sand it back level and try again. Maybe the Minwax brush on poly just isn't my thing.
4 hours was probably too soon. What you most likely did was "curl" the ends of the sand scratches. Let it cure for 24 hours, and hit it again with 400 wet/dry using water with a couple drops of dishsoap in it (acts as a lubricant) and see if that doesn't work. The 220 is too aggressive for what you're doing, anyway.
By the way, I just live over in Fairhope. PM me if you ever want to get together and play...
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Old December 8th, 2011, 01:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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4 hours was probably too soon. What you most likely did was "curl" the ends of the sand scratches. Let it cure for 24 hours, and hit it again with 400 wet/dry using water with a couple drops of dishsoap in it (acts as a lubricant) and see if that doesn't work. The 220 is too aggressive for what you're doing, anyway.
By the way, I just live over in Fairhope. PM me if you ever want to get together and play...
Cool...glad to see a TDPRI'er lives close by. I'll send a PM your way.
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Old December 8th, 2011, 09:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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220 may be ok for fixing but too heavy to finish over with a clear. you will see the difference between the sanded and non sanded areas as light hits it with that heavy of a paper.
800 is what I normally clear over however if I have to sand one area for a repair I will sand the entire surface so you dont see that repaired area.

when sanding to ready for polishing stay away from the edges until your on your finest grit then lightly sand the edges checking often. Only remove just enough to flatten/level the surface.
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Old December 9th, 2011, 01:57 AM   #17 (permalink)
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No way will you get a shine polishing after just 1000 grit. thats still way too heavy for a finish.
Depends on what rubbing and polishing compounds you use.
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Old December 9th, 2011, 03:36 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Depends on what rubbing and polishing compounds you use.
I polish after 1200. Have done after 800.
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Old December 9th, 2011, 08:40 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Why waist time and money on compounds and polishing pads cutting a 800-1000 grit sanded surface to a mirror shine when for $3 you can grab a package of 2000 grit and have a fine finish ready for a fine cut polish. After 2000 you can do it by hand with mild polishing.

just because you can does not mean you should
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Old December 9th, 2011, 09:54 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I think our "Bucko" Steve only sands to like 800 or 1000 doesn't he? He sure gets some great looking results to me. And I only remember him using one or two at the most polishing compounds. If I remember correctly that is.
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