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Finely Finished Discussion of painting, finishing and yes, even relicing your guitar. Remember relicing is a finish option not an affront to your emotions.

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Old July 1st, 2011, 05:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Squier Decal

yes, I know, sanding off the Squier decal is frowned upon by most, but I already did it, haha. I scraped it off with a knife, but it went down to the wood on the headstock, so there is still a light "Squier" on the headstock, I was wondering how I would go about covering that up?

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Old July 1st, 2011, 07:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Keep sanding.

I would use a sanding block and 220 grit paper.
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Old July 1st, 2011, 09:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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but what about finish or something like that? or do squiers even have finish at the headstock?
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Old July 1st, 2011, 09:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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oh, and I bought a waterslide decal for it (to deceive only myself, it's my baby, I'd never sell it), can you lead me to someplace that can tell me how to put it on?
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Old July 1st, 2011, 11:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRogers2281
waterslide decal for it...can you lead me to someplace that can tell me how to put it on?
Clue=waterslide
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Old July 2nd, 2011, 01:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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well i saw a video with some guy rubbing it off like it never even existed, i just wanna get it right, cause i paid 12 bucks for it :P
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Old July 2nd, 2011, 01:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
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My understanding is that you'll need to sand the front of the headstock down until it has the desired consistency of appearance, and then you'd take any necessary grain filling steps, after which you'd apply the waterslide decal like those old model car decals (soak it in water for a few seconds and then slide it off). After it's dry, you'd apply several coats of clearcoat in whatever finish you like (satin, gloss, etc.) until it reaches at least the thickness of the decal plus a bit so it's smooth. If a decal rubbed off, it was on top of the finish. If you've never done it before and you don't have prior painting experience, then look for as many tutorials as possible and go very slowly making sure not to spray your coats of clearcoat too thick. If it were me, I'd probably get some wood scraps and some cheap test waterslides (maybe a cheap model car kit even) and do a few test runs before you subject your dear axe to the treatment.
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Old July 2nd, 2011, 02:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Sand it down until the faded Squier logo is gone. Finish sand with at least 1000 grit and apply clear coat. Wait a day or two and gently wet sand with 1000 again for a smoooth finish. Apply the decal, smooth it out with a cotton cloth getting the water out from under. After a few hours, spray a mist of clear coat, wait an hour and mist again, gradually adding a heavier coat, over the next few hours. Wait about two days, gently wet sand again with 1000 -1200 grit, then rub out with auto finish rubbing compound. .. Presto there you have it !
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Old July 2nd, 2011, 07:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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When I took one off I had to go all the way down to bare wood. Is the original finish tinted(colored)? If it is, like mine was, you'll need to dye or stain the wood and then apply the finish. Or you may be able to tint your finish with dye or stain. For the finish I used Minwax wipe on polyurethane. Put a bunch of coats on. Lightly sand. Apply the decal, then apply a few more coats. If you sand those final coats go easy so you don't sand into the decal.
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Old July 2nd, 2011, 07:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Clue=waterslide
That's a nasty reply. Why waste your time?
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Old July 2nd, 2011, 02:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Put it in warm water for 30 seconds or untill the decal can slide between ur finger and thumb. Then put it up the the headstock and slide it off of the backing. It will move around for a few seconds so be quick and put it in it's spot. Then use the backing and try to Dab it so there's no air. Next dab with damp paper towel. Then a quick dab with the paper towel.
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Old July 3rd, 2011, 12:05 AM   #12 (permalink)
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but i'm not sure about the tint on the headstock, or which clear coat to go with.

I have a good idea now, about sanding, finishing, decal, clearcoat.

but i'm not sure how to go about finishing the headstock, to match the neck, or to go with gloss or satin clearcoat
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Old July 3rd, 2011, 02:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Hey gang, stay tuned for the next thread in this series called, "I just bought this Tele, is it a fake?"
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Old July 3rd, 2011, 02:34 AM   #14 (permalink)
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What model squire is it?
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Old July 3rd, 2011, 02:58 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Hey gang, stay tuned for the next thread in this series called, "I just bought this Tele, is it a fake?"
Inevitable, but less than helpfull. Why even come in to the post, it was quite clear what it was about?

To the OP, the staining to match will be the hardest part. No advice here will give much more than you got already, next step is practice on scraps with tints and clear until you get the shade and finish right. Then hold your breath and repeat the process on your "baby"

It is the doing/practicing that will teach now......
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Old July 3rd, 2011, 03:02 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Inevitable, but less than helpfull. Why even come in to the post, it was quite clear what it was about?:
Just keepin' it real.
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Old July 3rd, 2011, 01:35 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Just keepin' it real.





I have a Squier Bullet from a few years ago that seems like they stamped the logo on unfinished wood and shipped it out. In contrast, my CV has 4 quarts of clearcoat on it. I assume yours doesn't have "any" coating? I just got to thinking how big of a PITA it would be to sand through all the clearcoat...
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Old July 3rd, 2011, 02:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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All this trouble just to make it look like a real Gibson?
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Old July 4th, 2011, 06:20 PM   #19 (permalink)
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All this trouble just to make it look like a real Gibson?

just to learn something new!

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What model squire is it?
affinity, I think it's from 2008 or something.



the decal is from ebay, it's still gonna be a week or so, I'm just trying to collect information.
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Old July 4th, 2011, 06:41 PM   #20 (permalink)
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All this trouble just to make it look like a real Gibson?
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