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| Finely Finished Discussion of painting, finishing and yes, even relicing your guitar. Remember relicing is a finish option not an affront to your emotions. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 52
Posts: 1,320
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Nitro can't be this fragile... can it???
See photos below. Obviously I did something wrong somewhere along the line, but I just can't believe the lacquer on my Strat is coming off at this kind of alarming rate.
I've acquired a few little chips here and there since I finished this guitar earlier this summer, but I pretend that it doesn't bother me and that it's just a natural relicing process. Well, fine and dandy. But this big chunk just came off after I tapped the guitar against the edge of... my couch. Granted, it hit on a hard corner, but it's upholstered for Pete's sake. I just can't believe that all lacquer finishes are this fragile. Are they? For the record, I used StewMac products all the way through, let the body sit for a good month before beginning to sand/buff, and generally followed what I thought was the best advice available anywhere: the knowledgeable members of this forum. Any ideas what I could have done wrong? Edit: I'm working on a new Tele project that I really DON'T want to be a relic. Any tips from my Tele brethren would be greatly appreciated. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Maui/Indiana
Age: 48
Posts: 2,756
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One reason guitar manufacturers use Poly.
Despite how appealing a beat-up old Blackguard looks to us now, Leo was horrified at the rate nitro lacquer wore and chipped. I read it was the main reason he started using Rosewood fretboards and experimenting with different finishes. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Poster Extraordinaire
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: GA
Posts: 7,741
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It looks cool imo. I guess you should use poly for your next guitar if you don't want chips.
__________________
-"You do not merely want to be considered just the best of the best. You want to be considered the only ones who do what you do" J. Garcia |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Central California
Age: 59
Posts: 2,134
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Ouch! That suks.... no suggestions other than starting with a wash coat (highly reduced initial coat of sanding sealer) that gets the sealer to penetrate into the wood fiber creating a stronger bond. Haven't a clue how to do this with spray cans.
Primo burst; looks great! |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 52
Posts: 1,320
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Quote:
My finish process was: sanding sealer, color coats, and (I thought) quite a bit of clear lacquer; probably 5 or 6 spray cans. Too much? Not enough? |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: virginia
Posts: 1,905
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for some reason I had a real bad experience with stew mac a few years ago-I used their sanding sealer and lacquer on a mohagany body and it literally can be scrpaed off with my fingernail-I have since gone to Reranch products without incident. Yours doesnt look quite as bad as mine but all I could come up with was something happened between the bond of sanding sealer and nitro............
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#11 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Doctor of Teleocity
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Your first assignment is to resize those pictures before you link to them. This software reduces everything to 600 pixels wide, to post photos wider than that makes unnecessary demands on the software and bandwidth.
Now to your finish problem. Hard to see what is going on because although the photos are HUGE, the problem area is relatively small... The color coat came off. So I think we can rest assured that the lacquer and color coat are firmly bonded. The problem is probably in the bonding of the color coat and whatever is under it. Is it bare wood? Is it sealed wood? The answer is probably there. You say the products were all StewMac. Which products are they? It might also be an issue with the surface prep of what is under the color. The truth is out there.
__________________
"If you can't say something nice... don't say nothing at all." - Thumper the Rabbit "She's not only merely dead, she's really most sincerely dead." - The Munchkin Coroner |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Doctor of Teleocity
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In the smaller of the "dings" I am seeing some dimensionality. Is it gouged into the wood?
Do you remember how that happened?
__________________
"If you can't say something nice... don't say nothing at all." - Thumper the Rabbit "She's not only merely dead, she's really most sincerely dead." - The Munchkin Coroner |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 52
Posts: 1,320
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Quote:
Now that you mention it, I now recall that I applied a coat of Tru-Oil, let it dry, and scuff-sanded it before starting the lacquer process. I suppose that's probably it, then. Then again, I did the same with the neck, and it seems to be rock solid, finish-wise. But maybe I haven't just banged it around enough yet. StewMac products: sanding sealer, color coats, and clear gloss lacquer. But, I can only assume that the Tru-Oil is the culprit... |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Central California
Age: 59
Posts: 2,134
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Did it chip down to the sanding sealer? Down to the Tru-oil? Or all the way down to the wood? If you can determine that, it may point out a culprit.
I had assumed previously it was down to the wood. |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Tele-Afflicted
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 52
Posts: 1,320
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Quote:
I guess, at this point, my question would be: is this a normal phenomenon or not, with nitro finishes? I can't imagine that it is. |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
Doctor of Teleocity
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Quote:
__________________
"If you can't say something nice... don't say nothing at all." - Thumper the Rabbit "She's not only merely dead, she's really most sincerely dead." - The Munchkin Coroner |
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#18 (permalink) |
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formerly "Big" Mike Simpson
Poster Extraordinaire
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I use Shellac as a sealer / basecoat (Hock flakes and Behlens Bekhol not zinnser) under Behlens nitro stringed instrument lacquer and I have not had any problems like that.
That's too bad... looks like you put a lot of work into that and did a good job other than the flake. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
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Amongst the things that I am learning is that you want vinyl sealer under nitro when using it on wood . I do not claim to know the chemical content of the myriad of products being sold out there , but it would make sense to be sure . I have been shown that I should apply the first coat of nitro over the final vinyl sealer coat while the vinyl sealer coat is still tacky . This makes for better adhesion . My instructor has been experimenting with Reranch products and likes them , so far . With some care , you should be able to spot that chip in . Nice job on the burst .
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 3,208
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As you may know, lacquer will "melt" into previous coats of
lacquer, but not into a coat of Tru-Oil. Quote:
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