Show off your rattle can paint jobs.

[HOBBSTER01]

Post 'em guys.

[pchilson]

[ThaLowEndTheory]

Ok, you asked for it.

[Del Pickup]

Here's my old MIM strat which I stripped right back to the wood and then sprayed with with a rattle can - the nearest colour I could find to Sonic Blue.

I think it's slightly darker than Sonic but not as deep blue as Daphne.

As I'm not averse to a relic appearance I left some of the original dings in the wood and it's already got a few small nicks and scratches in the new finish - but they're all genuine use marks rather than deliberate relicing.

[ThaLowEndTheory]

There's alot more, but you get the point.

[Tallycat]

I have two....

[birddog01]

Nice !
Those are all beautiful, keep them coming...

LowEndTheroy
The Sunburst bass, was that done with dye ? Looks like Ash

Wally

[Parma_TeleMon]

Originally Posted by ThaLowEndTheory

[ThaLowEndTheory]

Originally Posted by birddog01

Nice !
Those are all beautiful, keep them coming...

LowEndTheroy
The Sunburst bass, was that done with dye ? Looks like Ash

Wally

Thanks, the jazz bass was done using the reranch 3 color burst kit. It's a beautiful 1 piece alder body from warmoth. It is my favorite instrument that I own.

The 2 color bursted P bass is a swamp ash with flamed maple cap. It was a combo of amber dye and the burst was done with rattle can.

[ThaLowEndTheory]

Here's a few more.

[Jefemaximo]

Originally Posted by ThaLowEndTheory

Thanks, the jazz bass was done using the reranch 3 color burst kit.

Any other brands that people can recommend?

[pchilson]

Dupli-Color available at a lot of auto parts stores. Acrylic Lacquer

[ThaLowEndTheory]

Originally Posted by pchilson

Dupli-Color available at a lot of auto parts stores. Acrylic Lacquer

Yea, the silver strat I posted, and the orange metallic '51 are Dupli-Color metal specks paint. I use dupli-color often. The black P bass is Rustoleum black lacquer with Deft clear. The light orange '51 is Krylon, but there are compatibility issues when using enamel for color coats so generally it's not recommended. It can be worked around, but it can be difficult and frustrating.

For bursts, I stick with reranch, but behlen's does have sunburst colors in spray cans as well. I've seen them at woodcraft stores.

[jkingma]

Automoticv Acrylic.

[tonewoods]

[ThaLowEndTheory]

Originally Posted by jkingma

Automoticv Acrylic.

Cool bass. SG/Jazz Bass/Strat. Did you put a 5 way switch on that thing? What are the pickup combos?

[jkingma]

Originally Posted by ThaLowEndTheory

Cool bass. SG/Jazz Bass/Strat. Did you put a 5 way switch on that thing? What are the pickup combos?

The body was a mix of a Strat and a Jazz Bass... so I called it The Strato-Jazzer.

The customer supplied the pickups. I think the HB was a MightyMite and the JB's were Wilkinson. It was wired up with a 5 way switch and operated the same as a Strat.

[garymaddox]

Nice pics! Please include what you used for each build/refin!

gm

[redddog]

Originally Posted by tonewoods

THAT is nice.

[flatfive]

ThaLowEndTheory -- I love those metallic jobs you did. Could you
please give some detail on the process you used? For example,
prep, primer, clear, when you sanded, what you used for polishing,
etc.

I really like to do an orange metallic. Grateful for any further info
you can provide.

Originally Posted by ThaLowEndTheory

Yea, the silver strat I posted, and the orange metallic '51 are Dupli-Color metal specks paint. I use dupli-color often. The black P bass is Rustoleum black lacquer with Deft clear. The light orange '51 is Krylon, but there are compatibility issues when using enamel for color coats so generally it's not recommended. It can be worked around, but it can be difficult and frustrating.

For bursts, I stick with reranch, but behlen's does have sunburst colors in spray cans as well. I've seen them at woodcraft stores.

[ponticat]

Rustoleum Satin Aqua/Deft Gloss Clear:



Rustoleum Satin Summer Squash/Deft Gloss Clear:

[ponticat]

Deft Clear Sanding Sealer/Stew-Mac Trans Cherry Red/Deft Gloss Clear:

[fezz parka]

[ThaLowEndTheory]

Originally Posted by ponticat

Deft Clear Sanding Sealer/Stew-Mac Trans Cherry Red/Deft Gloss Clear:

THAT'S HAWT!!!

[RodeoTex]

This is all ReRanch sprays:


This one is all Krylon:


Several shades of Duplicolor:


Hodge-podge of everything, acrylic and nitro:

[ToadLC]

I have a few.....

Telecasters

[ToadLC]

and a couple Strats.........

[Faraldi]

Originally Posted by ThaLowEndTheory

Ok, you asked for it.

Beautiful stuff.

I've tried to do this with minimal success, mostly because I don't get a deep shine.

How do you (and the rest of you) get these results?

[ThaLowEndTheory]

Originally Posted by flatfive

ThaLowEndTheory -- I love those metallic jobs you did. Could you
please give some detail on the process you used? For example,
prep, primer, clear, when you sanded, what you used for polishing,
etc.

I really like to do an orange metallic. Grateful for any further info
you can provide.

Sure, My standard prep is block sand the body from 220 up to 400. If the wood does not require grainfiller I first spray 2 light coats of sanding sealer. I use deft because it's easy to access and works well for me. I let it dry overnight then I block sand it with 320. Then I spray 2 more coats and let it dry again then block sand with 400 grit. Usually everything is leveled out at this point. If so I move to primer. I use reranch primer. I spray 2 light coats to get full coverage let it dry for a couple of hours then block sand with 400. If I need to recoat for coverage I will spray one more light coat and block sand with 600. Once the primer coat is smooth I move to color. I usually buy 2 cans if I'm using Duplicolor metal specks. The flakes are a little bigger than most of the spray can metallics. I really take care to spray it really dry. So I'm spraying from a distance of 2 feet sometimes and the paint is really just falling onto the body from gravity. I spray from all different angles as well to avoid any striping. Due to the size of the flakes the tips tend to clog so be weary of drips and spits. I rotate the tips of both cans in and out and dip them in thinner often to fight clogs. Spraying it dry like I do wastes alot of the paint, and it takes several coats to build even coverage, but through trial and error this is what works best for me. I also give it time to dry between coats. I usually spray 2 or 3 coats then let it dry an hour or 2 until I've used both cans. Also be weary of spits towards the end of can. Once the color is on and it looks consitstent I let it dry overnight. I use nitro for clear. Usually minwax, but I've also used watco, deft, and of course reranch clear. The first 3 or 4 coats of clear are mist coats. These lock the flakes into position. From there I will gradually progress into wetter coats until I'm spraying a normal clear coat. In general I use about 2 cans of clear, sometimes 2 and half. Also it's very important not to rest the body on anything or touch or disturb the flakes anyway throughout the process.
Whew! That was alot more than I meant to type. I hope it makes sense. If you have any other questions on my process, feel free to pm me anytime.

[ThaLowEndTheory]

Oh, forgot the polish.

First I wetsand usually from 1000 grit up to 1500. Then I move into compounds and polishes.

I use meguiar's auto polishes applied with foam pads and a hand drill.

Compound Power Cleaner followed by medium cut cleaner, followed by swirl remover. Then as a final step I apply the swirl remover by hand as well.

Here's a chart that you can use to pick your producst.

http://www.dano.pocketrubbish.com/de...oductchart.htm

[boris bubbanov]

Originally Posted by ThaLowEndTheory

Oh, forgot the polish.

First I wetsand usually from 1000 grit up to 1500. Then I move into compounds and polishes.

I use meguiar's auto polishes applied with foam pads and a hand drill.

Compound Power Cleaner followed by medium cut cleaner, followed by swirl remover. Then as a final step I apply the swirl remover by hand as well.

Here's a chart that you can use to pick your producst.

http://www.dano.pocketrubbish.com/de...oductchart.htm

This Chart is GREAT!!

Thanks so much for posting this!

Fantastic.

[sa paine]

Originally Posted by ThaLowEndTheory

Here's a few more.

I really like the White Blond J bass, it has maybe a slight grey tint with dark grain showing through. Can I get a Pine body to look like that ? What did you use on it ?

[claudel]

Hand rubbed dye & sandback with Deft rattlecan clearcoat.

The final clearcoat is the only thing I sprayed.

Everything else from the base dye to the sanding sealer was rubbed/brushed on and appropriately rubbed out/sanded.

Polished with spatter free MicroMesh to 12000 after a month of curing...

It's been played enough so that it needs a repolishing.

It's not as blue as it appears in the top photo due to my poor photography skills.

Bottom one is much closer to the real deal.


TruOil on the neck.

[ThaLowEndTheory]

Originally Posted by claudel

This bass is just pure awesome. Fretless P, Q tuners, Detuner, and a great job on the finish. Awesome!!!!

[Buckocaster51]

all ReRanch stuff



the one on the right is a Martin. The other one is rattle can stuff. It's close.

[ThaLowEndTheory]

Originally Posted by sa paine

I really like the White Blond J bass, it has maybe a slight grey tint with dark grain showing through. Can I get a Pine body to look like that ? What did you use on it ?

I used Reranch Mary Kay white. You can get it to work over pine. For example the coral strat, surf green PJ, shell pink jazz and the sonic blue strat are all semi trans. You can see the grain on all of them and those colors are solid colors. I mixed the colors down by cutting them with clear. I showed a friend how to do it and he used vintage cream over pine and it worked perfectly.

Here's a link to his bass
http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewt...highlight=pine


Here's a link that explains how to make a solid color transparent. MK is already semi trans, but the grain on pine is not as bold so cutting it could be your answer.
http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewt...ighlight=coral

[62_Inca_Esquire]

There are some amazing looking guitars in this thread !


I personally like mine a bit less "pretty", but damn I'd love to have a few of the ones posted earlier !

[maryjane]

not as beautiful as the more experienced finishes here, but i do love her.
the most outstanding feature is the custom made reverse headstock
medium/soft V neck with a six and a half inch radius. unique and comfy.

[RiverDog]

Wow. Where have all these amazing pics been? Beautiful stuff guys.

[flatfive]

Thanks very much for your detailed description of the process!
Thanks also for the chart!

Originally Posted by ThaLowEndTheory

Oh, forgot the polish.

First I wetsand usually from 1000 grit up to 1500. Then I move into compounds and polishes.

I use meguiar's auto polishes applied with foam pads and a hand drill.

Compound Power Cleaner followed by medium cut cleaner, followed by swirl remover. Then as a final step I apply the swirl remover by hand as well.

Here's a chart that you can use to pick your producst.

http://www.dano.pocketrubbish.com/de...oductchart.htm