Hand sander recommendation

[garymaddox]

I have 2 bodies with sander artifacts I can't seem to get out with hand sanding. One body has lines on the front and back. Another body has a series of ocean wave swirls. Since I haven't had any luck block sanding these out, and believe me, I have tried, what are some good hand sanders?

Thank you for your input!

[KevinB]

Have you tried a random orbit sander?

I use a Porter Cable...



But DeWalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, Makita all make good stuff too.

[jkingma]

I've got a PC like the one above, 2 Rigids and a B&D. I like the PC best. I put a different grit disc on each one so that I don't have to switch discs as much.

[garymaddox]

Originally Posted by jkingma

I've got a PC like the one above, 2 Rigids and a B&D. I like the PC best. I put a different grit disc on each one so that I don't have to switch discs as much.

Thanks for the replies, KevinB & John! I was considering the PC. I've read many good things about Porter-Cable tools on this forum. I think I'll pick one up so I can play with it this weekend.

What grits should I start out with? How about brands? When it comes to sheet sandpaper, I have always prefered 3M.

[jkingma]

I use Norton sanding discs. I have my 4 sanders loaded up with 80, 120, 220 and 320 grits... which is what I use most often.

[KevinB]

I bought some - these things take 5" diameter, velcro backed, discs - in 220, 320 and 400 grit.

Mirka - and Norton - make excellent discs, but I bought some in bulk from Online Industrial Supply and the quality is excellent. They are about $12 for a box of 50 discs.

[garymaddox]

Thanks for all the info, guys. I really appreciate it!

[boris bubbanov]

I've got a DeWalt, 1/4 sheet orbital I like.

What happens is, a large bit of the abrasive breaks free and wrecks havoc all over. I switch to hand/block sanding a little sooner and avoid these oscillating scratch waves.

Use the best sandpaper you can find and try to avoid the coarse stuff. Fresh paper a couple of grades finer will cut just as fast, IME.

[jrfrond]

I have a Ryobi random orbital sander that I purchase years ago at Home Depot. It used H & L (Hook & Loop) discs, as opposed to adhesive-backed (avoid the adhesive-backed ones). I also use Norton sanding discs, usually 100, 150, and 220. If you go to Woodworker's Supply, you can get all kinds of micro-grit discs as well.

I wouldn't be without this handy tool.

[Muddy T-Bone]

I own both a Makita and a Porter Cable. The Makita leaves the swirl marks, the PC doesn't. Yet I use both. The Makita has a much easier and faster mechanical mechanism to get the sand paper installed, than the PC does. So I use the Makita on the rougher sanding: 80,120, 180. After 180 I switch to the Porter Cable which does not leave the swirl marks, but is a bugger (for me) to change sandpaper on.

The Porter Cable cleans off the swirl marks that the Makita leaves on wood. Particularly as the grits become finer. However, the key to no swirl marks is to let the sander do the work, and don't apply much pressure with either machine. This is dependent on wood density of course. Meaning that you can apply more pressure sanding ash than you can alder as an example without getting swirl marks. The harder the wood the more pressure you can apply with less hassle of swirl marks.

The bottom line is, you always need to hand sand at the very end, to get the project "as smooth as a baby's butt". Which is what you need before you proceed to the next step.... IMHO

[KevinB]

Originally Posted by boris bubbanov

I've got a DeWalt, 1/4 sheet orbital I like.

What happens is, a large bit of the abrasive breaks free and wrecks havoc all over. I switch to hand/block sanding a little sooner and avoid these oscillating scratch waves.

Use the best sandpaper you can find and try to avoid the coarse stuff. Fresh paper a couple of grades finer will cut just as fast, IME.

The 1/4 sheet orbitals are good (I have a PC) but the random orbit ones are much better. They use a 5" hook and loop disc so that changing media takes literally 2 seconds, and the random nature leaves no swirl marks. I've also never had any abrasive break free with them. In fact, I don't use the older 1/4 sheet sander much since I got the newer one. You can also get (Bosch) sponge applicators that fit them for using polishing componds. The StewMac/Erlewine finishing DVD shows the use of these very nicely.

And, as the others say, let the sander do the work.

[otaypanky]

I've had a Porter Cable 1/4 sheet orbital since the early 70's. Great tool

While refinishing a guitar in Sept. I used Micro Mesh for the first time. It's kind of a high tech sandpaper. What an amazing product that is. I used it by hand, not with the machine and you are actually able to get a finish to a gloss.

[garymaddox]

Thanks for all the good input. I have used power sanders on furniture. I am still a noob when it comes to guitar finishing. Everything I have done so far has been by hand. I appreciate the experienced advice. Is this the best forum or what?!

[Vizcaster]

I agree you should avoid the peel and stick (pressure-sensitive-adhesive, or PSA) papers and the sanders that require them. It seems cheaper for the paper, but what they don't tell you is that you really can't re-use a sheet once you remove it to switch grits. And if you make the mistake of leaving a piece on the sander after using it, the heat will set the adhesive and you're going to have difficulty removing it the next day or later, so again the piece of sandpaper is wasted.

For hook-and-loop disks, I have always used Klingspoor (woodworkingshop) paper.