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Go Back   Telecaster Guitar Forum > The DIY Channel > Finely Finished

Finely Finished Discussion of painting, finishing and yes, even relicing your guitar. Remember relicing is a finish option not an affront to your emotions.

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Old October 29th, 2009, 10:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Removing "sticky" residue left after labels,tags etc..

Whats the best way to remove the gunk left after price labels etc have been removed?
A question which has I'm sure been asked and answered before but the "finish" here is not one I've come across before-it looks more like enamel/acrylic housepaint to me and I don't want to rush into using my usual methods.
I have used white spirits sparingly on poly finish for quick results,but suspect it might be too strong here-I'm afraid we're talking a recent G----n LP special faded,not a tele,the banana yellow effort.
I've also had sucess with aerosol furniture polish(Mr Sheen type) on older finishes including nitro and also liquid soap used neat.
Any advice? Some clown at some stage put a sticky price label on the headstock just under the logo which looks silkscreened and not oversprayed,and there was a factory stock label left on the back of the headstock as well.Some of you might advise me too but I don't want to wipe the logo off!
Hope this is an ok question on the Tele forum!
Rob

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Old October 29th, 2009, 01:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Any chance they have a product called "Goo-Gone" in Ireland? It works great for removing label remnants from wood and metal finishes. WD-40 also works well.

Ciao,
Rick
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Old October 29th, 2009, 04:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm interested too.

No GooGone or WD40 here...
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Old October 29th, 2009, 05:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Rob 2

Zippo lighter fluid (Naptha) works well for removing sticker residue and will not damage most finishes (used it on both polly and Nitro with no ill results). If you are worried about the logo, just use it sparingly on a folded paper towel (being carefull not to touch the logo).

Post a picture if you can, it might help.
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Old October 29th, 2009, 05:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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k-wad is correct..........lighter fluid (naptha) is the best there is.
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Old October 29th, 2009, 05:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Another naptha user here.
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Old October 29th, 2009, 05:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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iso-propyl alcohol (propan-1-ol) aka lens cleaner, the goo's gone, leaves no residue and it don't eat no paint.
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Old October 29th, 2009, 06:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Lighting it on fire and sandpaper are probably not good choices.
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Old October 29th, 2009, 09:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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mrmorrison Lighting it on fire and sandpaper are probably not good choices. Glad I checked back here before I went ahead then

The goo on the headstock back came off easily,used a tiny bit of domestic aerosol polish,it put up no resistance.
I can only presume it was shop staff had tried to rub the goo on the front off after removing the price,it was much more difficult to shift.A small amount of Naptha on a cotton bud,repeated a few times saw it off- it is slightly shinier where the goo was,I'm guessing more from the initial attempt,I was very careful!The black headstock facing seems to be thin plastic or somesuch...
Thanks for the replies,it never ceases to amaze me how little thought some shops give to their stock......
Rob
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Old October 29th, 2009, 10:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefrs View Post
iso-propyl alcohol (propan-1-ol) aka lens cleaner, the goo's gone, leaves no residue and it don't eat no paint.
No please don't use alcohol or goo-gone unless you're sure that the finish is not nitrocellulose lacquer - it will leave white marks or worse. Naptha is safe for any finish that has cured (unless it's just wax which is idiotic anyway).
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Old October 29th, 2009, 10:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ronsonol lighter fluid. Also works well for removing price stickers from record jackets and books.
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Old October 30th, 2009, 09:38 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Lighter fluid is good....but it's really just naphtha. Or it used to be - some of the newer lighter fluids are not naphtha and will harm your finish so check the ingredients.

And basic VM&P (varnish makers' and painters') naphtha is much cheaper. You can get a can of it from most hardware stores and it's great for cleaning fretboards, removing skin oils from finishes, etc.
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Old October 30th, 2009, 08:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Whatever you do, test the solvent on a non-critical area first! Don't ask me how I know this...OK, I'll tell you. A few years ago I shot contact cleaner on the jack of my '65 Strat because it was getting noisy. The stuff splattered out onto the area around the jack--and immediately dulled the finish. I spent an hour polishing the area as best as I could, but if you look not-so-closely, you can see where the finish got messed up.
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Old October 30th, 2009, 11:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Also regular old BABY OIL or unscented mineral oil.



bemd em tight and let er scream.
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Old October 31st, 2009, 12:49 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Years ago when I was doing appliance repair, I got a great tip from a housewife for removing adhesive that I still use.
Vegetable Oil. works like a charm and everyone has it.
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Old November 1st, 2009, 11:41 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Propanol does not leave marks (that's why you can clean lenses with it), but you are right - do not use it on nitro finish, it can make it 'sticky' (I just tested it). Naptha (lighter fuel) is an even stronger solvent than alcohol.

Universal solvent with a mild surfactant wetting agent usually works - this is the main ingredient in household aerosol polish cleaners (soap and water).
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Old November 1st, 2009, 04:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the replies.Glad I didn't try the naptha on the back of the headstock then if it softens nitro-in fact didn't realise the rough "faded" finish WAS nitro when I got this!
I've finished off with a little high-quality "solid" antique furniture wax over the whole headstock when I took off the factory strings,just brings it all up a little.
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