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| Finely Finished Discussion of painting, finishing and yes, even relicing your guitar. Remember relicing is a finish option not an affront to your emotions. |
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#1 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: georgia.
Posts: 148
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Wipe on Poly? or..Deft Lacquer Gloss Spray?
I have all my holes drilled on the guitar, and about to be in the finishing process of my guitar:
Things i would like to consider..are my budget. I ran to lowes early morning after church and found a bottle of Deft for 5.79 Already I have some wipe on poly from my last project... Only problem is i want to have a gloss that is thick. Nothing like a varnish. Wipe on poly took me forever to get even a bit of thickness on my finish. SHOULD i buy some deft lacquer gloss spray? Another problem is... I notice from a few other paint jobs... Is the spray from deft very fine? I hate getting runs and drips from an uneven spray? Anyway to prevent this? I am about to grain fill my mahogany body w/ timbermate. Level sand the body flat then use wood conditioner then my oil based stain. I tried to get water based like someone recommended me but lowes did not even have that instock! i know BLASPHEMY! BTW: if im already using grain filler do i need deft's sanding sealer spray as well?!?
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"How many of you all have built a telecaster with a CNC router? What was it like?" -Yes, Kinda like shooting a small animal with an M1 tank -edgemarc |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Tele-Holic
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: out of it
Posts: 568
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i've been using deft for years, haven't had any problems with it since i figured out how to use a spray can. runs and drips are the result of spraying the finish too 'wet', or spraying too much lacquer per coat. you don't want the coat to look dusty, but just beyond that, to where it looks wet, or covered. if in doubt, thinner coats are always better, they will build up, and you stand a much better chance of their being fully gassed out, and dry enough that the completed finish will fully cure.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: georgia.
Posts: 148
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thanks bud! =] i'll give it a try soon =]
__________________
"How many of you all have built a telecaster with a CNC router? What was it like?" -Yes, Kinda like shooting a small animal with an M1 tank -edgemarc |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: georgia.
Posts: 148
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does anyone know if i should use wood conditioner on top of the filled body?
process i think should go like this: grain fill -> wood conditioner -> stain ->lacquer? i hate blotches!
__________________
"How many of you all have built a telecaster with a CNC router? What was it like?" -Yes, Kinda like shooting a small animal with an M1 tank -edgemarc |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Nueces Strip
Posts: 4,407
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I'm not even sure what wood conditioner is.
I've built dozens of bodies and my schedule usually goes something like this: Wash coat (50/50 clear lacquer and thinner) Grain/pore filler - natural color for transparent finishes, auto body glazing compound for solid colors. Color coat(s) Clear coats (at least 4, maybe more) Wet sand and buff until you puke...
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Turn it on, turn it up, turn me loose. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: georgia.
Posts: 148
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[QUOTE=RodeoTex;2090737]I'm not even sure what wood conditioner is.
I've built dozens of bodies and my schedule usually goes something like this: i have wood conditioner already and it i remember i was suppose to use it on my ash body telecaster a while back.. basically it prevents stains from being blotchy and allowing the stain to go on evenly... Im pretty scared of finishing it already, so im waiting until i get a lot of details how i should do this.
__________________
"How many of you all have built a telecaster with a CNC router? What was it like?" -Yes, Kinda like shooting a small animal with an M1 tank -edgemarc |
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