|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||
| Finely Finished Discussion of painting, finishing and yes, even relicing your guitar. Remember relicing is a finish option not an affront to your emotions. |
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Friend of Leo's
|
Spray Can Shellac?
Saw this at the local hardwarehouse store the other day - the Bulls Eye brand by Zinsser, I think - how does this stuff do for bodies?
I've been having a tough time with applying wipe on shellac smoothly. mud
__________________
MudBean Music Nekkid Bart: "This is the worst day of my life." Laffing Homer: "Worst day SO FAR!!" |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Holic
|
My experience with spraying shellac is that you get pebbling in the finish. You can sand this down, but spraying again tends to get the same results, even if you use a retarder. On the other hand, sanding and topcoating shellac with polyurethane works very well.
Wiping shellac can be frustrating, especially when you follow instructions for "classical" shellac application - - i.e., using a two-pound cut and applying with the traditional tampon of wool and linen. There is another way to go about this that has worked much better for me than the instructions you usually see on furniture finishing discussion boards. Use fresh shellac from flakes, but mix a very light cut - - less than one pound. I have used 1/2 pound cuts with good results. Wipe using a pad of folded, 100% cotton linen. If you have old bed linens with a high thread count, that's perfect. Because you're using a mixture that is almost entirely alcohol, you can pretty much soak the pad before swiping across the work piece. The coat will dry very rapidly. It's hard to resist applying another coat when it seems that the work piece is dry, but you'll get better results if you apply a coating and wait 20-30 minutes before reapplying. If you get "drag" when applying the pad, you know that you need to allow more time for drying between coats. Because you're using a very light mixture, it will take more applications to build up your finish. But I think you'll see that it's MUCH different applying 1/2 lb. shellac as compared to 2 lb.
__________________
Tim in VA |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Telefied
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New Orleans, LA + in the past
Posts: 30,169
|
The spray can shellac is not good enough value for money, IMO. I tolerate the same cost per can (slightly less) for lacquer but that stays on there. A lot of the shellac is just gonna be sanded back off. More important is the Bulls Eye rattle can just won't go on smooth enough. You can get just as good a result with Preval sprayers and flakes you blend with alcohol yourself. Or even the quart cans of Zinsser Bull's Eye if they are fresh.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
formerly "Big" Mike Simpson
Poster Extraordinaire
|
Mix your own flakes and spray it through a preval sprayer.
Available at Home Depot, Ace, Lowes and most hardware stores for $5 to $7 http://www.prevalspraygun.com/ I won't use Zinser Bullseye shellac. |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) | |
|
Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ohio
Age: 37
Posts: 2,703
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) | |
|
Friend of Leo's
|
Quote:
mud
__________________
MudBean Music Nekkid Bart: "This is the worst day of my life." Laffing Homer: "Worst day SO FAR!!" |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) | |
|
Tele-Holic
|
Quote:
__________________
Tim in VA |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 (permalink) | |
|
Doctor of Teleocity
|
Quote:
__________________
-Creator of Fine Sawdust and Expensive Kindling.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 (permalink) | |
|
Friend of Leo's
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ohio
Age: 37
Posts: 2,703
|
Quote:
Everyone talks about how easy they are to get-- i.e. hardware stores, auto parts stores, etc. I can't find any place in Columbus, OH that knows what the heck I'm talking about when I mention Preval sprayers. The only ones that do know what I'm talking about say "nope, we've never carried them". Lowes, Home Depot, Advance Auto Parts, Auto Zone... |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) | |
|
Doctor of Teleocity
|
Quote:
__________________
-Creator of Fine Sawdust and Expensive Kindling.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#11 (permalink) |
|
Tele-Meister
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Brazil
Age: 38
Posts: 129
|
I brush shellac, mainly as a washcoat for special see-thru finishes OR I brush like 6 or 7 times in a very old-fashioned, time consuming style when I refinish violins or cellos from bare wood. Keyword here in these cases: SOUND. For these classical instruments, shellac sounds beautifully. For solid body guitars, I found little difference between lacquer (nitro) and shellac, regarding sound.
I really do not recomend spraying shellac. Make yours from fresh flakes, try dewaxing the mixture and use a very good (the best you can afford) brush. Sand between each two or three coats. Closer to the last ones, you can sand between each one. That's MY experience here in Brazil. Weather helps a lot in here. |
|
|
|
|
|
#12 (permalink) | |
|
Tele-Holic
|
Quote:
__________________
Tim in VA |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#13 (permalink) | |
|
Telefied
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New Orleans, LA + in the past
Posts: 30,169
|
Quote:
Agreed, auto parts places look at you like you're asking for iridium. |
|
|
|
|
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
|
|
IMPORTANT:Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult! No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.