How to finish an Allparts neck? - Telecaster Guitar Forum
The Number 1 Fender Telecaster Guitar authority in the world.
   

Go Back   Telecaster Guitar Forum > The DIY Channel > Finely Finished
Forgot Username/Password? Join Us!
Notices

Finely Finished Discussion of painting, finishing and yes, even relicing your guitar. Remember relicing is a finish option not an affront to your emotions.


Wilde Pickups by Bill & Becky Lawrence WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Amps, Mods, Pedals dallenpickups.com Warmoth.com seymourduncan.com


Forum Jump


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old February 12th, 2009, 01:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
Tele-Meister
 
manbearpig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Madison
Posts: 303
How to finish an Allparts neck?

Hi guys,

Let me start by saying that I searched the forum and I know that this topic has been discussed in several different threads to varying degrees. However, I am having trouble finding the info I am really looking for.

I have just purchased a body for my very first build and I have pretty much decided on buying an Allparts TMO-FAT neck to go with it (but haven't purchased it yet.) I know that many TDPRIers have used these necks and I have seen lots of threads about them. So here is my question/request:
What is your favorite recipe for finishing one? I know some of you have finished several by different methods - what worked out best? I am particularly concerned about the "sealer" they put on the "unfinished" necks and what to do about it (if anything).

Basic info is appreciated...

manbearpig is offline   Reply With Quote

Old February 12th, 2009, 01:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
Banned
Tele-Holic
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Age: 49
Posts: 922
Easiest way (for me) is spray lacquer, because if I make a mistake, I can sand it out and touch-up.

3 coats, sand it level, 3 more coats, sand and polish. Having a can of brushing lacquer on-hand is very handy for minor fills and touch-ups.
Chris Leger is offline   Reply With Quote

Old February 12th, 2009, 01:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
Tele-Meister
 
manbearpig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Madison
Posts: 303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Leger View Post
Easiest way (for me) is spray lacquer, because if I make a mistake, I can sand it out and touch-up.

3 coats, sand it level, 3 more coats, sand and polish. Having a can of brushing lacquer on-hand is very handy for minor fills and touch-ups.
Thanks, Chris.

So do you do anything to "prep" the neck before the lacquer?
manbearpig is offline   Reply With Quote

Sponsored Links   #
Sponsored posting
 

Old February 12th, 2009, 01:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
Banned
Tele-Holic
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Age: 49
Posts: 922
Nope. As long as it's sanded past 220 or so, you're good to go.

"Sand it level" above refers to wet-sanding. I do 600 in the first pass, then 1000 on the second. You don't need to get really fussy, as the polish will remove pretty much everything. Lacquer is soft, and very easy to work with.
Chris Leger is offline   Reply With Quote

Old February 12th, 2009, 01:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
Banned
Tele-Holic
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Age: 49
Posts: 922
Forgot to mention... one thing I DO do between the two sets of coats is load the walnut stripe with lacquer. It is open-granied, and will absorb a ton of finish.

Lay on your first coats, then tape-off the back of the neck, and brush on plenty of lacquer, sanding in between, every hour or so. Three heavy coats will do it. I don't mind a bit of texture on the open grain - can't feel it. I just don't want "craters" around the pores, which you'll be fighting if you skip this step and stick to spraying only.

The alternative is to use a filler/sealer, but it kills the fire in the grain - which is something I like to see, even on that skinny stripe.
Chris Leger is offline   Reply With Quote

Old February 12th, 2009, 11:20 PM   #6 (permalink)
Tele-Meister
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sweden, now where's me rattle-can?
Posts: 489
My five cents would be that every allparts neck has an uncovered flameyness to it, i have worked on one allparts bass body and allparts jazz neck to go with it.
Now my experience is that both needed sanding up to 1200 grit and with a hour of said work the neck was flaming even more than when i got it.

If it's the first time you are doing wet sanding then it may take longer but one evening at most.
Here is a picture of it with waxed finish, it's plain maple with the occasional usualness.

As i see it, it's always worth a try with a fine finish.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	25705928.jpg
Views:	289
Size:	50.0 KB
ID:	20641  
Zmatko is offline   Reply With Quote

Old February 13th, 2009, 12:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
Banned
Tele-Holic
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Age: 49
Posts: 922
Yeah, even the most humble piece of maple usually has some fire in it somewhere.

Don't bury it under sealer.
Chris Leger is offline   Reply With Quote

Old February 13th, 2009, 12:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
Telefied
 
boris bubbanov's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: New Orleans, LA + in the
Posts: 35,948
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Leger View Post
Yeah, even the most humble piece of maple usually has some fire in it somewhere.

Don't bury it under sealer.

Chris, your words unleashed images of pickguards with protective plastic film on them. And necks with protective plastic film on them. I think it is true, if you think about it, that these catalyzed finishes creating a heavy film can really dumb down any eye candy in the maple.

I'll take that to heart.
boris bubbanov is offline   Reply With Quote

Old February 13th, 2009, 12:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
Banned
Tele-Holic
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Age: 49
Posts: 922
It really is true. Look at a Fender neck. They're "yellow."

Buy any piece of clear maple. Finish it in nothing but lacquer (as heavy as you like.)

If it's two feet long, there will be at least 3 inches of net flame in it somewhere. It may be subtle, but hold it under your lamp and turn it around. It's there.

There's character in any piece of good wood, and maple is good wood.
Chris Leger is offline   Reply With Quote

Old February 13th, 2009, 01:15 AM   #10 (permalink)
Poster Extraordinaire
 
Mike Simpson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gilbert, AZ (PHX)
Age: 58
Posts: 7,640
I used a TMO-fat neck and I sprayed nitro lacquer over shellac (real shellac mixed from flakes). I have done a couple of necks that way.
Mike Simpson is offline   Reply With Quote

Old February 13th, 2009, 01:22 AM   #11 (permalink)
Tele-Holic
 
SinnerBoy61's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Johnson City, TN - Morgantown, WV
Age: 27
Posts: 646
Yes..I wouldn't seal it.

One thing to consider would be birchwood-casey Tru-Oil, available in the gun/outdoors section in wal-mart. It's a gunstock finish that is extremely thin, and easy to apply with your fingertips. After several coats are applied over a few days time, one waits 1-2 days, then steel wools it (0000) then buffs with a cotton t-shirt. It has a very subtle amber tint to it, and it tends to seep into the grain and pop it very nicely.
It can also be lacquered over in the instance you'd like to put a decal on your headstock and the bury it with nitro.



Not saying one is better than the other. Personally I prefer a highly polished lacquer finish on a neck, but this is a very quick nice option too.
SinnerBoy61 is offline   Reply With Quote

Old February 13th, 2009, 01:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
TDPRI Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Appleton,WI
Age: 44
Posts: 4
I prefer the satin poly finish which you can get in a spray can at True value.I carefully round the edges of the fretboard to match modern American Stand ard necks starting with 80grit sandpaper and working up to 320 grit, finish sand entire neck with 320 grit,tape off fretboard if rosewood(if maple spray right over frets and cut them out with a razor blade after like Fender does),wash with thinner,blow off,wipe with tack cloth and spray taking your time to wait between coats. Don't rush.Let dry overnight.Sand with 500 grit wet. Reprep.Apply Fender logo with water which you can get on ebay. Apply 3 more coats.Let dry overnight. Wet sand with 1000grit and then 2000grit,buff to nice sheen with compound or toothpaste. I hope this helps. I did an Allparts neck and the boys at FenderDealer musicstore thought it looked genuine Fender and played amazing well and in tune!!
TwangMaster1 is offline   Reply With Quote

Old July 23rd, 2009, 05:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
Friend of Leo's
 
appar111's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ohio
Age: 39
Posts: 2,713
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Leger View Post
Yeah, even the most humble piece of maple usually has some fire in it somewhere.

Don't bury it under sealer.
You mean sanding sealer? You guys find that sanding sealer obscures flame & grain on a maple neck? Never really thought about it.. last couple necks I've done have just had a thin spray of Deft sanding sealer to seal the wood and I don't feel like anything's obscured.

But Tru-Oil can definitely accentuate the grain, that's for sure!
appar111 is offline   Reply With Quote

Old July 23rd, 2009, 06:38 PM   #14 (permalink)
Tele-Afflicted
 
TELE_BLUES's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: ROCKCHESTER,NEW YORK
Posts: 1,295
I did one with minwax wipe on poly.memebr rod distefano has a info section on his websire frettech.com in there is how he does his wipe on finishes pretty easy and it looks good too.The wipe on finish is going to easiestalthough spraying with a can is'nt too difficult there are problem that may arise.
TELE_BLUES is offline   Reply With Quote

Old July 23rd, 2009, 09:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
Tele-Holic
 
ChicknPickn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Ole Virginny
Age: 51
Posts: 986
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Mike Simpson View Post
I used a TMO-fat neck and I sprayed nitro lacquer over shellac (real shellac mixed from flakes). I have done a couple of necks that way.
Yep, shellac as a base for lacquer is nice. Great under wipe-on poly, too. Of course, shellac as the one and only coating is superb and well worth your time. What shellac does for grain has to be seen to be believed.
__________________
Tim in VA
ChicknPickn is offline   Reply With Quote

Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

/td>

» Random Photo for Guests
My Martin Acoustics
Untitled Document



 


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2



IMPORTANT:Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult! No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0 RC 2
© TDPRI.COM 1999 - 2014 All rights reserved.