Crack Problem, What to do?

doster · June 16th, 2008, 04:09 PM

I bought this 2000 Fender body cheap ($20) and it had the pickups and hardware too. It's a jazz bass, but I don't know what quality, it's stamped with a date on May, 28 2000 stamped in black and Mar 2000 X40860 in bigger letters in red.

The guy said that the guitar was in a car accident (never let them drive after a gig).

There's a nice sized crack that can be seen on the front and back of the guitar that starts in the pocket and moves down the back. The pocket itself looks solid.

Take a look at the photos and let me know if you think it's salvageable? I'd love to use it for my first bass build.

BAW4742 · June 16th, 2008, 04:32 PM

That looks like a pretty severe structural crack to me but I'm no authority.

Can you open it up any by flexing the body gently?

I did this on a crack in the neck pocket of my 66 Tele that I restoring. After opening it a little I used a syringe to inject some heated gorilla glue in the joint. It didn't look as bad as this.

hockey_head · June 16th, 2008, 05:11 PM

normally a crack like that can be dowelled but because there is a body horn in the way, you can't really drill for dowelling.
glue injection may work.

doster · June 16th, 2008, 05:33 PM

I was able to get a little movement, that's what I'll try.

Rob DiStefano · June 16th, 2008, 06:17 PM

Do what you have to do to squeeze the crack as tight as possible, so that the cracked edges meet and there is no air gap. Wick in quality water thin CYA (Hot Stuff, Zap, Jet, etc) to wherever you see the crack's hairline. Do not gush in the CYA - apply sparingly. As the CYA is sucked into the crack, reapply 'til it will no longer wick in. The cracked area will more than likely be stronger than the wood itself.

doster · June 16th, 2008, 07:31 PM

Rob,

I'm new to this, but excited to try.

What does that mean; "wick in?" My guess is that you apply the glue into the crack by just letting gravity let it run down into the crack until it won't take any more. Is that right?

I'll clamp it after gluing to assure a tight fit.

Thanks again

Rob DiStefano · June 16th, 2008, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doster

Rob,

I'm new to this, but excited to try.

What does that mean; "wick in?" My guess is that you apply the glue into the crack by just letting gravity let it run down into the crack until it won't take any more. Is that right?

The water thin CYA will be sucked into the crack via capillary action.

I'll clamp it after gluing to assure a tight fit.

NO - you must clamp the crack very tight BEFORE wicking in the CYA! The glue setup will take longer than normal, due to the accumulated amount you'll probably be using. Leave it clamped for a few hours, or overnight. Don't use any CYA accelerator!

Thanks again

....

e-merlin · June 16th, 2008, 08:15 PM

Man! Am I glad this thread wasn't what I thought it was going to be!

Good luck with the crack!

doster · June 16th, 2008, 09:47 PM

Ok, got it, will give it a try.

Thanks for the info.

ponticat · June 16th, 2008, 10:31 PM

Available in drug stores everywhere!

bobbybigmac · June 16th, 2008, 11:27 PM

Car accident ? Terrible when people funk n drive at the same time.

Seriously :
IMHO try to not widen the crack.
Once wood deforms it never goes back the way it was.

It's hard to see from the photo but could you drill a 1/16" dia. hole, at an angle down-wards into the crack, from the neck bolting hole or another area that would be concealed when the bass is re-assembled ?
That would give deep access to inject this low viscosity glue.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,110,42966

doster · June 17th, 2008, 10:11 AM

OK, I understand what to do and have ordered the glue.
Thanks very much, hopefully I'll get my crack problem under control.

BAW4742 · June 17th, 2008, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doster

OK, I understand what to do and have ordered the glue.
Thanks very much, hopefully I'll get my crack problem under control.

I found these to be very helpful in injecting the glue.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_a.../Pipettes.html

They have a needle like tip on them that fit easily in a 1/16" hole. I drilled a few shallow holes (about 3/8" to 1/2" deep) in the neck pocket trying to follow the angle of the crack and injected glue in these using the pipette. Worked well with the watery glue.

Good Luck doster.

Rob DiStefano · June 17th, 2008, 10:52 AM

Using the supplied "needle" tip that comes with the typical CYA plastic bottle is all ya need - if the crack joint is tight, just touching the tip to the crack and slightly squeezing the CYA bottle will have the crack sucking in any pooled glue. Any CYA residue can be picked up by just touching it with a small piece of paper towel - watch how quickly the CYA wicks in!

BAW4742 · June 17th, 2008, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob DiStefano

Using the supplied "needle" tip that comes with the typical CYA plastic bottle is all ya need - if the crack joint is tight, just touching the tip to the crack and slightly squeezing the CYA bottle will have the crack sucking in any pooled glue. Any CYA residue can be picked up by just touching it with a small piece of paper towel - watch how quickly the CYA wicks in!

Forgot about the tip that came with it.

My bottle is capped with a closed lid as the original needle tip clogged months ago.

doster · June 20th, 2008, 12:12 AM

Today the glue was delivered and I went out a bought a big clamp to force the crack together, Some areas of the crack, especially near the pocket wicked in lots of glue. Other parts wouldn't take much. I'll have the clamp on until tomorrow and then will take a look.

superbadj · June 27th, 2008, 07:46 PM

So...how'd it do?

doster · July 8th, 2008, 08:58 AM

It looks good, I've been on evilbay buying parts to put it together. I got a USA neck for $167, which I think is a good deal. Got all the other assorted parts pretty cheap too.
My theory is to put it together before I refinish the body, just to make sure that the crack isn't a problem. Then play it for a while and see how it sounds. I've got a good feeling because the crack wicked in all that glue.
After that I'll take it apart, strip what's left of the finish on the body and re-paint.
The other way to do it would be refinish the body then put it back together, that way it would be done, but I think it makes sense to see how the crack holds up under the tension of the strings.
I've got everything but the neck, once it comes I'll put it together and report back.

BAW4742 · July 8th, 2008, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doster

My theory is to put it together before I refinish the body, just to make sure that the crack isn't a problem. Then play it for a while and see how it sounds. I've got a good feeling because the crack wicked in all that glue.
After that I'll take it apart, strip what's left of the finish on the body and re-paint.

Sounds like a plan. Let us know how it works out for you.

doster · July 10th, 2008, 07:32 PM

I've started to assemble the parts and I've got a wiring question. I'm looking at the Fender wiring diagram for an American Standard Jazz Bass and there's no wire coming from the inner ring of the output jack, is that correct? Just one from the outer ring to center lug of the tone pot?
Still need to replace the pots and then I'll put it all together, it's going to look pretty ugly at first, but hopefully there will be no crack problem and I can get to work on the re-finish.

EddieN · July 11th, 2008, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doster

I'm looking at the Fender wiring diagram for an American Standard Jazz Bass and there's no wire coming from the inner ring of the output jack, is that correct? Just one from the outer ring to center lug of the tone pot?

Naw, that doesn't sound right at all. Should be another wire from the inner ring of the jack to the back of the tone pot.

doster · July 11th, 2008, 04:25 PM

That's what I thought.

This is the link for what I'm using.

http://www.fender.com/support/diagra...660_62APg2.pdf

I hope to wire it up this weekend. So I can play around with it.

EddieN · July 11th, 2008, 05:36 PM

Ya just need to add the aforementioned groundwire from the jack & you're good. Dunno why it's not shown.

bobbybigmac · July 11th, 2008, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EddieN

Ya just need to add the aforementioned groundwire from the jack & you're good. Dunno why it's not shown.

I think you don't need it because the metal shield or metal control plate is the shared ground for the input jack inner ring and pots.
Since all mount thru the metal plate they all are sharing the ground and that's why there's no ground wire to the jack on the Fender diagram.

doster · July 12th, 2008, 07:23 PM

Wired it up and everything seems fine except I broke the resistor (I think that's what it's called) taking it off the old tone pot. If I take it to Radio Shack should they be able to figure out what I need? Says .05 on the wiring diagram.

I left the inner connector unwired and everything seems to be fine, just your normal 60 cycle hum.

Rob DiStefano · July 12th, 2008, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doster

Wired it up and everything seems fine except I broke the resistor (I think that's what it's called) taking it off the old tone pot. If I take it to Radio Shack should they be able to figure out what I need? Says .05 on the wiring diagram.

I left the inner connector unwired and everything seems to be fine, just your normal 60 cycle hum.

Capacitor.

June 16th, 2008, 05:33 PM	#4 (permalink)
doster Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 328	I was able to get a little movement, that's what I'll try. __________________ “You don't find a style, ... a style finds you.” Keith Richards

June 16th, 2008, 07:31 PM	#6 (permalink)
doster Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 328	Rob, I'm new to this, but excited to try. What does that mean; "wick in?" My guess is that you apply the glue into the crack by just letting gravity let it run down into the crack until it won't take any more. Is that right? I'll clamp it after gluing to assure a tight fit. Thanks again __________________ “You don't find a style, ... a style finds you.” Keith Richards

June 16th, 2008, 09:47 PM	#9 (permalink)
doster Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 328	Ok, got it, will give it a try. Thanks for the info. __________________ “You don't find a style, ... a style finds you.” Keith Richards

June 17th, 2008, 10:11 AM	#12 (permalink)
doster Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 328	OK, I understand what to do and have ordered the glue. Thanks very much, hopefully I'll get my crack problem under control. __________________ “You don't find a style, ... a style finds you.” Keith Richards

June 20th, 2008, 12:12 AM	#16 (permalink)
doster Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 328	Today the glue was delivered and I went out a bought a big clamp to force the crack together, Some areas of the crack, especially near the pocket wicked in lots of glue. Other parts wouldn't take much. I'll have the clamp on until tomorrow and then will take a look. __________________ “You don't find a style, ... a style finds you.” Keith Richards

June 16th, 2008, 04:32 PM	#2 (permalink)
BAW4742 Tele-Holic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Maryland's Eastern Shore Age: 51 Posts: 644	That looks like a pretty severe structural crack to me but I'm no authority. Can you open it up any by flexing the body gently? I did this on a crack in the neck pocket of my 66 Tele that I restoring. After opening it a little I used a syringe to inject some heated gorilla glue in the joint. It didn't look as bad as this.

June 16th, 2008, 05:11 PM	#3 (permalink)
hockey_head Tele-Meister Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: shortsville, ny Age: 51 Posts: 379	normally a crack like that can be dowelled but because there is a body horn in the way, you can't really drill for dowelling. glue injection may work.

June 16th, 2008, 06:17 PM	#5 (permalink)
Rob DiStefano Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Park Ridge, NJ Age: 62 Posts: 4,788	Do what you have to do to squeeze the crack as tight as possible, so that the cracked edges meet and there is no air gap. Wick in quality water thin CYA (Hot Stuff, Zap, Jet, etc) to wherever you see the crack's hairline. Do not gush in the CYA - apply sparingly. As the CYA is sucked into the crack, reapply 'til it will no longer wick in. The cracked area will more than likely be stronger than the wood itself.

June 16th, 2008, 10:31 PM	#10 (permalink)
ponticat TDPRI Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Alexandria, Virginia Age: 62 Posts: 18	Available in drug stores everywhere!

June 16th, 2008, 11:27 PM	#11 (permalink)
bobbybigmac TDPRI Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: West Coast Canada Age: 49 Posts: 84	Car accident ? Terrible when people funk n drive at the same time. Seriously : IMHO try to not widen the crack. Once wood deforms it never goes back the way it was. It's hard to see from the photo but could you drill a 1/16" dia. hole, at an angle down-wards into the crack, from the neck bolting hole or another area that would be concealed when the bass is re-assembled ? That would give deep access to inject this low viscosity glue. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,110,42966

June 17th, 2008, 10:52 AM	#14 (permalink)
Rob DiStefano Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Park Ridge, NJ Age: 62 Posts: 4,788	Using the supplied "needle" tip that comes with the typical CYA plastic bottle is all ya need - if the crack joint is tight, just touching the tip to the crack and slightly squeezing the CYA bottle will have the crack sucking in any pooled glue. Any CYA residue can be picked up by just touching it with a small piece of paper towel - watch how quickly the CYA wicks in!

June 27th, 2008, 07:46 PM	#17 (permalink)
superbadj Tele-Holic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: roanoke, va Age: 34 Posts: 566	So...how'd it do?

July 8th, 2008, 08:58 AM	#18 (permalink)
doster Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 328	It looks good, I've been on evilbay buying parts to put it together. I got a USA neck for $167, which I think is a good deal. Got all the other assorted parts pretty cheap too. My theory is to put it together before I refinish the body, just to make sure that the crack isn't a problem. Then play it for a while and see how it sounds. I've got a good feeling because the crack wicked in all that glue. After that I'll take it apart, strip what's left of the finish on the body and re-paint. The other way to do it would be refinish the body then put it back together, that way it would be done, but I think it makes sense to see how the crack holds up under the tension of the strings. I've got everything but the neck, once it comes I'll put it together and report back. __________________ “You don't find a style, ... a style finds you.” Keith Richards

July 10th, 2008, 07:32 PM	#20 (permalink)
doster Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 328	I've started to assemble the parts and I've got a wiring question. I'm looking at the Fender wiring diagram for an American Standard Jazz Bass and there's no wire coming from the inner ring of the output jack, is that correct? Just one from the outer ring to center lug of the tone pot? Still need to replace the pots and then I'll put it all together, it's going to look pretty ugly at first, but hopefully there will be no crack problem and I can get to work on the re-finish. __________________ “You don't find a style, ... a style finds you.” Keith Richards

July 11th, 2008, 04:25 PM	#22 (permalink)
doster Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 328	That's what I thought. This is the link for what I'm using. http://www.fender.com/support/diagra...660_62APg2.pdf I hope to wire it up this weekend. So I can play around with it. __________________ “You don't find a style, ... a style finds you.” Keith Richards

July 11th, 2008, 05:36 PM	#23 (permalink)
EddieN Tele-Meister Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tampa Posts: 131	Ya just need to add the aforementioned groundwire from the jack & you're good. Dunno why it's not shown.

July 12th, 2008, 07:23 PM	#25 (permalink)
doster Tele-Meister Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 328	Wired it up and everything seems fine except I broke the resistor (I think that's what it's called) taking it off the old tone pot. If I take it to Radio Shack should they be able to figure out what I need? Says .05 on the wiring diagram. I left the inner connector unwired and everything seems to be fine, just your normal 60 cycle hum. __________________ “You don't find a style, ... a style finds you.” Keith Richards Last edited by doster; July 12th, 2008 at 07:24 PM. Reason: Adding jack wiring info