Body seam breaks

MulliganChebichev · December 23rd, 2007, 08:15 PM

Stripped my Lead II, found that it had some cracks where the three pieces are joined, one is pretty bad, its on the edge of the body and is wide as a medium pick.

Is this something to be worried about? Can I just Bondo over it?

Thin breaks are in green

This fatty break is in pink

Buckocaster51 · December 23rd, 2007, 08:23 PM

That's a shame.

I think if I was faced with that, I would wick some cyanoacrylate glue in there.

I wouldn't try to clamp it shut. Put some in. Let it dry. Put some more in.

Just try to keep it from moving in the future.

Will probably hold better than auto body filler.

Fixed a broken headstock on a cheap imported standup base that way. Still holding after 6 years.

But remember, you paid nada for this advice.

Telenator · December 23rd, 2007, 08:32 PM

If worse came to worse you could saw the body into three pieces at the seams and then re-glue the whole thing back together using filler strips the width of the saw blade to fill the void. You'd have to shape it to match but I really don't see any other way to get that back together and have good, tight seams. Cyanoacrylate is kinda brittle and won't hold quite as well as good old Elmers cabinet glue.

MulliganChebichev · December 23rd, 2007, 08:34 PM

Hmmm....Bucko, how would I go about doing this? Not really a super glue expert

MulliganChebichev · December 23rd, 2007, 08:36 PM

Telenator, I don't know how to put glue in that tight seam, do I just smear a boatload and wipe it off

?
Granted thats not a good idea, but if you have some idea, I'm all ears.

Buckocaster51 · December 23rd, 2007, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MulliganChebichev

Hmmm....Bucko, how would I go about doing this? Not really a super glue expert

Neither am I.

But...

I would get a tube of thin stuff and a glue of thick stuff...it might be called "gap filling"...

Let gravity run some of the thin stuff into the cracks.

Then try to let gravity run some of the thick stuff into the cracks.

It might take several applications of the thick stuff.

Then there is the old baking soda trick. To fill major gaps you can sprinkle baking soda on wet CA. It makes a rock hard substance.

I wouldn't rush it.

You'll be okay.

You might want to have some acetone...fingernail polish remover...around when working with CA.

Cheers

Steve Dikkers
aka Buckocaster51

boneyguy · December 23rd, 2007, 09:43 PM

I think using good old wood glue would work the best. I'd suggest making a mixture of glue and sawdust (from the guitar body itself ideally) and using your finger to push it into the crack. Wipe the excess of with a damp cloth. After it has hardened fully you may have to refill the crack a little if the glue has settled at all.

It will dry incredibly hard and with the sawdust added might make the repair somewhat invisible.

CDKopf · December 23rd, 2007, 10:38 PM

Thin wood glue with water so it runs down the cracks as much as you possibly can - just smear the crap out of it over the crack with your finger -

MulliganChebichev · December 23rd, 2007, 10:47 PM

Hmmm, thanks guys, I'll try'em all with some scrap wood, see what works the best.

...shoot, I don't have any kind of usable glue, and its Christmas rush season, so I'll try it by weeks end.

Telenator · December 24th, 2007, 07:29 AM

What I'm suggesting is that you literally put the body on a table saw, or radial arm saw, and cut it into three pieces, right down the seams.

Then, you make two filler strips that are the width of the saw blade, and thickness of the body (to replace the material you removed by cutting it) and then glue the whole thing back together.

The problem you have is that wood has changed shape along the glue joints. It's no longer straight. The amount of force required to smush that joint back together will most likely damage the body by denting it. Even if you could force it back together, the glue joint will not hold for very long. The wood has changed it's shape.

You need to create new gluing surfaces that are straight and true. The only way to do this is to cut the body into pieces and re-glue it along the new, straight edges.

December 23rd, 2007, 08:15 PM	#1 (permalink)
MulliganChebichev Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oregon, USA Age: 18 Posts: 1,531 3 Photos	Body seam breaks Stripped my Lead II, found that it had some cracks where the three pieces are joined, one is pretty bad, its on the edge of the body and is wide as a medium pick. Is this something to be worried about? Can I just Bondo over it? Thin breaks are in green This fatty break is in pink

December 23rd, 2007, 08:23 PM	#2 (permalink)
Buckocaster51 Friend of Leo's Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Iowa USA Age: 56 Posts: 4,296 1 Photos	That's a shame. I think if I was faced with that, I would wick some cyanoacrylate glue in there. I wouldn't try to clamp it shut. Put some in. Let it dry. Put some more in. Just try to keep it from moving in the future. Will probably hold better than auto body filler. Fixed a broken headstock on a cheap imported standup base that way. Still holding after 6 years. But remember, you paid nada for this advice. __________________ "An awfully lot of time can be wasted waiting for the right time." - Gunsmoke's Doc Adams

December 23rd, 2007, 08:32 PM	#3 (permalink)
Telenator Friend of Leo's Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Connecticut Posts: 4,168	If worse came to worse you could saw the body into three pieces at the seams and then re-glue the whole thing back together using filler strips the width of the saw blade to fill the void. You'd have to shape it to match but I really don't see any other way to get that back together and have good, tight seams. Cyanoacrylate is kinda brittle and won't hold quite as well as good old Elmers cabinet glue. __________________ Dogs have the right idea!

December 23rd, 2007, 09:43 PM	#7 (permalink)
boneyguy Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: victoria b.c. Age: 50 Posts: 2,315	I think using good old wood glue would work the best. I'd suggest making a mixture of glue and sawdust (from the guitar body itself ideally) and using your finger to push it into the crack. Wipe the excess of with a damp cloth. After it has hardened fully you may have to refill the crack a little if the glue has settled at all. It will dry incredibly hard and with the sawdust added might make the repair somewhat invisible. __________________ "Shut up n' play yer guitar"

December 23rd, 2007, 10:38 PM	#8 (permalink)
CDKopf Tele-Meister Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Spokane, Wa Age: 33 Posts: 342 3 Photos	Thin wood glue with water so it runs down the cracks as much as you possibly can - just smear the crap out of it over the crack with your finger - __________________ "Luther's wife is real pretty........ she's about this tall.........LAYIN' DOWN!" (Johnny Cash & guitar player Luther Perkins)

December 23rd, 2007, 08:34 PM	#4 (permalink)
MulliganChebichev Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oregon, USA Age: 18 Posts: 1,531 3 Photos	Hmmm....Bucko, how would I go about doing this? Not really a super glue expert

December 23rd, 2007, 08:36 PM	#5 (permalink)
MulliganChebichev Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oregon, USA Age: 18 Posts: 1,531 3 Photos	Telenator, I don't know how to put glue in that tight seam, do I just smear a boatload and wipe it off ? Granted thats not a good idea, but if you have some idea, I'm all ears.

December 23rd, 2007, 10:47 PM	#9 (permalink)
MulliganChebichev Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Oregon, USA Age: 18 Posts: 1,531 3 Photos	Hmmm, thanks guys, I'll try'em all with some scrap wood, see what works the best. ...shoot, I don't have any kind of usable glue, and its Christmas rush season, so I'll try it by weeks end.

December 24th, 2007, 07:29 AM	#10 (permalink)
Telenator Friend of Leo's Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Connecticut Posts: 4,168	What I'm suggesting is that you literally put the body on a table saw, or radial arm saw, and cut it into three pieces, right down the seams. Then, you make two filler strips that are the width of the saw blade, and thickness of the body (to replace the material you removed by cutting it) and then glue the whole thing back together. The problem you have is that wood has changed shape along the glue joints. It's no longer straight. The amount of force required to smush that joint back together will most likely damage the body by denting it. Even if you could force it back together, the glue joint will not hold for very long. The wood has changed it's shape. You need to create new gluing surfaces that are straight and true. The only way to do this is to cut the body into pieces and re-glue it along the new, straight edges. __________________ Dogs have the right idea!