How to strip mystery paint non-chemically?

voided3 · April 26th, 2008, 06:57 PM

Hello, I have an inexpensive Les Paul Custom copy that was primed and sprayed red over the original black finish. I do know, based on the paint chips, that it has white binding underneath so I would like to avoid using a liquid paint stripper so I don't melt the binding. What would be the best way to attack this finish and get it down to the bare wood? Wether or not it's pretty, I plan on spraying a clear finish on it after stripping. How challenging is it to sand an arched top like this? Thanks!

P.S> I have no fear of messing up this guitar, so all medieval suggestions are welcome

boneyguy · April 26th, 2008, 07:34 PM

I don't think I've ever sanded down a whole guitar but given the bits that I have I predict it's gonna be alot of work.

You might consider using a chemical stripper on the areas away from the binding so that you are only left with the outside perimeter to sand by hand.

With gel type strippers you can get fairly accurate with where you want it. I'd suggest leaving at least an inch or so as a perimeter that you would sand by hand.

There are very mild strippers available as well but my experience with them is kinda iffy. Depending on the finish you're removing they either work very slowly or not at all. You could try a mild stipper over the binding areas and use a cabinet scraper to gently remove the finish going slowly layer by layer. That may or may not be faster than sanding.

That's about all I have to offer.

Edit. I just realized your guitar is an LP copy and not an actual Gibson. In that case I would start with determining whether the finish under the paint job is polyester or polyurethane.

I personally have not been able to use a chemical stripper that will touch polyester. It will lie there and laugh at your feabile attempts. If it's polyester I'm guessing that you may have to sand.

I've used a heat gun and a putty knife before to remove polyester and it worked very well. You could not use the heat gun anywhere near the binding of course but you could basically do what I've suggested above and do the interior area away from the binding with the gun and do the bound perimeter by hand. That is of course if the finish is polyester. If it's urethane than you could use a stripper.

Good luck

bobthecanadian · April 26th, 2008, 08:01 PM

If it was me I would try scraping it off. I have scraped by using two hand and bending (just a little) a box cutter blade and dragging it across the finish. Comes off much quicker than sanding. I stripped a Highway One like this, recently. Maybe it will work for you as well.

Bob

jas468 · April 26th, 2008, 08:07 PM

Ditto on the heat gun and sanding, and watch the bindings.

If that stuff is anything like the coating I just took off from a Japanese RI Strat body, you've got your work cut out for you.
But -- with time and elbow grease it can be done.

Tim Armstrong · April 26th, 2008, 08:23 PM

As far as that goes, if you DO mess up the binding, you can buy some from Stew-Mac and replace that too...

Cheers, Tim

Nick JD · April 26th, 2008, 08:37 PM

Grinder with 60 grit on a flexible pad, a deft eye and a stern hand...

...it'd be a twenty minute job. Then another half hour with 100 grit and a small orbital sander. Ten minutes with some 180 grit and you're ready to paint the plywood you've exposed!

PS. wear a decent dust mask. The ones with an out-valve are generally better fitting - you don't want a gap because polyester/polyurethane dust ain't good on the lung.

Grinders are second only to hammers in the fun/destructive tool chest. Have fun!

jas468 · April 26th, 2008, 08:38 PM

checkout reranch.com - they have a great forum on refinishing. I learned a lot from them.

voided3 · April 26th, 2008, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick JD

Grinder with 60 grit on a flexible pad, a deft eye and a stern hand...

...it'd be a twenty minute job. Then another half hour with 100 grit and a small orbital sander. Ten minutes with some 180 grit and you're ready to paint the plywood you've exposed!

PS. wear a decent dust mask. The ones with an out-valve are generally better fitting - you don't want a gap because polyester/polyurethane dust ain't good on the lung.

Grinders are second only to hammers in the fun/destructive tool chest. Have fun!

I did this to a computer case before and it worked quite well (those metal edges rip the crap out of sanders!). My only fear is getting the sides stripped in such a fashion, but remember this is a cheap backyard paint job on top of a cheap (and relatively thin) factory paint job and the top coat I know chips easily, so I might just start by scraping and then move to the sander. Who knows, the factory black finish might be intact w/ some "relicing." I have access to an oscillating spindle sander; would that work well on the sides if I lay the body flat side down?

As for the mask, I learned this before with my power sanding experiences when afterwards I'd blow my nose and my snot was the same color of the paint I was stripping, and fortunately my dad's shop has a Jet air filtration system so I just leave that full blast when the going gets tough.

April 26th, 2008, 06:57 PM	#1 (permalink)
voided3 Tele-Holic Join Date: May 2005 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 681	How to strip mystery paint non-chemically? Hello, I have an inexpensive Les Paul Custom copy that was primed and sprayed red over the original black finish. I do know, based on the paint chips, that it has white binding underneath so I would like to avoid using a liquid paint stripper so I don't melt the binding. What would be the best way to attack this finish and get it down to the bare wood? Wether or not it's pretty, I plan on spraying a clear finish on it after stripping. How challenging is it to sand an arched top like this? Thanks! P.S> I have no fear of messing up this guitar, so all medieval suggestions are welcome

April 26th, 2008, 07:34 PM	#2 (permalink)
boneyguy Friend of Leo's Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: victoria b.c. Age: 50 Posts: 2,915	I don't think I've ever sanded down a whole guitar but given the bits that I have I predict it's gonna be alot of work. You might consider using a chemical stripper on the areas away from the binding so that you are only left with the outside perimeter to sand by hand. With gel type strippers you can get fairly accurate with where you want it. I'd suggest leaving at least an inch or so as a perimeter that you would sand by hand. There are very mild strippers available as well but my experience with them is kinda iffy. Depending on the finish you're removing they either work very slowly or not at all. You could try a mild stipper over the binding areas and use a cabinet scraper to gently remove the finish going slowly layer by layer. That may or may not be faster than sanding. That's about all I have to offer. Edit. I just realized your guitar is an LP copy and not an actual Gibson. In that case I would start with determining whether the finish under the paint job is polyester or polyurethane. I personally have not been able to use a chemical stripper that will touch polyester. It will lie there and laugh at your feabile attempts. If it's polyester I'm guessing that you may have to sand. I've used a heat gun and a putty knife before to remove polyester and it worked very well. You could not use the heat gun anywhere near the binding of course but you could basically do what I've suggested above and do the interior area away from the binding with the gun and do the bound perimeter by hand. That is of course if the finish is polyester. If it's urethane than you could use a stripper. Good luck __________________ "Shut up n' play yer guitar"

April 26th, 2008, 08:01 PM	#3 (permalink)
bobthecanadian Tele-Afflicted Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Taipei, Taiwan Age: 42 Posts: 1,538	If it was me I would try scraping it off. I have scraped by using two hand and bending (just a little) a box cutter blade and dragging it across the finish. Comes off much quicker than sanding. I stripped a Highway One like this, recently. Maybe it will work for you as well. Bob __________________ It don't mean a thang if it ain't got that TWANG!!!

April 26th, 2008, 08:23 PM	#5 (permalink)
Tim Armstrong Moderator Poster Extraordinaire Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Berlin, Maryland, USA Age: 49 Posts: 9,552	As far as that goes, if you DO mess up the binding, you can buy some from Stew-Mac and replace that too... Cheers, Tim __________________ http://www.moodswingers.org

April 26th, 2008, 08:37 PM	#6 (permalink)
Nick JD Friend of Leo's Join Date: May 2007 Location: North NSW, Australia Age: 36 Posts: 2,496	Grinder with 60 grit on a flexible pad, a deft eye and a stern hand... ...it'd be a twenty minute job. Then another half hour with 100 grit and a small orbital sander. Ten minutes with some 180 grit and you're ready to paint the plywood you've exposed! PS. wear a decent dust mask. The ones with an out-valve are generally better fitting - you don't want a gap because polyester/polyurethane dust ain't good on the lung. Grinders are second only to hammers in the fun/destructive tool chest. Have fun! __________________

April 26th, 2008, 08:07 PM	#4 (permalink)
jas468 Tele-Meister Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Temecula, CA Age: 63 Posts: 231	Ditto on the heat gun and sanding, and watch the bindings. If that stuff is anything like the coating I just took off from a Japanese RI Strat body, you've got your work cut out for you. But -- with time and elbow grease it can be done.

April 26th, 2008, 08:38 PM	#7 (permalink)
jas468 Tele-Meister Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Temecula, CA Age: 63 Posts: 231	also checkout reranch.com - they have a great forum on refinishing. I learned a lot from them.