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Old December 15th, 2009, 07:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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B String out of tune

I recently bought a 93 American Telecaster b-bender. It is a sweet guitar ( besides being a little heavy) but I can't seem to play without accidentily bending my b-string. I was wondering if anyone had an idea as to how I can eliminate/deminish this problem. I have resorted to sitting down when I play but that is also limiting. Any feedback is welcome. Thanks.

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Old December 15th, 2009, 07:31 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Try slightly increasing the size of your B string. If it is a .012, make it a .014, that sort of thing.
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Old December 15th, 2009, 10:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telebugga View Post
I recently bought a 93 American Telecaster b-bender. It is a sweet guitar ( besides being a little heavy) but I can't seem to play without accidentily bending my b-string. I was wondering if anyone had an idea as to how I can eliminate/deminish this problem. I have resorted to sitting down when I play but that is also limiting. Any feedback is welcome. Thanks.
Part of this problem is due to the learning / experience with adapting your technique for the bender...but ultimately ...The only way to really fix this is to shorten the spring...

Check out Gene Parsons FAQ on bender maintenance

http://stringbender.com/bender/fbbtec.php
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Old December 15th, 2009, 11:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Since the bender you have is a Parson's Green, it is fairly easy to change the spring. Remove the bender by following these directions....

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/b-bender-...mechanism.html

Once removed, the spring can be unhooked from the bender and shortened or replaced with a stronger spring. Ace Hardware normally has a selection in stock. If you get a spring that is too long or too weak, you can cut it down until you get the proper strength. Brian (BrianF) is so right in that as you get better with a bender, your technique will allow you to work with a weaker not stronger spring. The one drawback to a strong spring is that it is hard on the neck and shoulder after a night of playing it….especially with the weight of a factory Fender Parson's Green.
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Last edited by Dogbear; December 16th, 2009 at 08:50 AM..
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Old December 16th, 2009, 01:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Since the bender you have is a Parson's Green, it is fairly easy to change the spring. Remove the bender by following these directions....

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/b-bender-...mechanism.html

Once removed, the spring can be unhooked from the bender and shortened or replaced with a stronger spring. Ace Hardware normally has a selection in stock. If you get a spring that is too strong, you can cut it down until you get the proper strength. Brian (BrianF) is so right in that as you get better with a bender, your technique will allow you to work with a weaker not stronger spring. The one drawback to a strong spring is that it is hard on the neck and shoulder after a night of playing it….especially with the weight of a factory Fender Parson's Green.
I did this to both Parsons Greene benders that I've owned. I agree 100%
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Old December 16th, 2009, 08:36 AM   #6 (permalink)
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That's one of the many reasons I love my Evans Pull String. I can adjust the spring tension from nothing to very heavy in seconds. I have mine set pretty stout as I also tend to pull down on the guitar neck while playing, at times. If I don't have it set fairly heavy, I may come back from a fill, to a chord and be sharp on the b string...not easy on the ears. I guess it's easier to adjust the spring, than to retrain my old self!
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Old December 16th, 2009, 11:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Come to think of it, my B string is from a pack of super slinkies so that would make sense. Coupled with getting a more resistant string I think I will be in good shape. Thanks for taking the time to help me with this. I took a look at your myspace...good stuff. If you like you can check out my band at myspace.com/kingharobed...we do have a song that features the b-bender...but unfortunatly no cow bell. Though I am open to using one in the future.
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Old December 16th, 2009, 06:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I don't think I'd ever even consider..........

changing the size of the B string to a heavier gauge. You want to keep standard tension on each string. I like every string on my guitar(s) to be easily bent at least a whole tone with the fingers when needed. Putting a
.014 on there would be counter productive IMHO. Clarence White at times even used a smaller string than that on his 3rd string. I had a problem with a little un wanted bending at times when I first got my P/W but I kept at it and it's not a problem at all now and my bender is very useful.......JH in Va.
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Old December 16th, 2009, 10:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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changing the size of the B string to a heavier gauge. You want to keep standard tension on each string. I like every string on my guitar(s) to be easily bent at least a whole tone with the fingers when needed. Putting a
.014 on there would be counter productive IMHO. Clarence White at times even used a smaller string than that on his 3rd string. I had a problem with a little un wanted bending at times when I first got my P/W but I kept at it and it's not a problem at all now and my bender is very useful.......JH in Va.
That right there is the best advice from a seasoned bender!
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Old December 17th, 2009, 12:51 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Try slightly increasing the size of your B string. If it is a .012, make it a .014, that sort of thing.
Actually, if it's a .012, try a .011. You need a lighter gauge string for the spring to have more tension.
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Old December 17th, 2009, 02:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I had a Tech cut a loop of of the factory spring.
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Old December 17th, 2009, 09:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Changing the string gauge will only make a tiny difference to the felt bender pull. Changing or modifying the spring is really the only way you will get what you want. Although you can modify the existing spring, it is better to obtain others because as you get better at this, you will revert to the original or even a lighter spring. All of us have gone down this path. Three of my benders (one P/W and two P/G's) are set so that the bender will just hold when I let go of the guitar. The other one (Fender P/G) is set a little heavier so that I can stand and move around a bit without engaging the bender. All are significantly lighter than they came from the factory. It really is in the technique.........
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Old December 17th, 2009, 01:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Could one just use some cable ties to pull a couple of spring loops together, thus essentially shortening the spring, and creating higher tension. They could easily be cut out at a later date.
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Old December 17th, 2009, 03:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Something like this? Actually JH, it seems to work....



The yellow tie raps were just push in and tightened by hand. Pull increased significantly. I'm sure I could have compressed the spring more.

BrianF also taught me a little trick of using a metal hook to make a too strong spring lighter by lengthening it.
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Old December 17th, 2009, 05:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Great minds think alike! I think??????
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Old December 18th, 2009, 12:17 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Something like this? Actually JH, it seems to work....



The yellow tie raps were just push in and tightened by hand. Pull increased significantly. I'm sure I could have compressed the spring more...
Couldn't you just move the right end of the spring to the lower hole? That would give the spring more travel, giving it more tension.
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Old December 18th, 2009, 06:27 PM   #17 (permalink)
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It really doesn't make much difference. The unit in the pictures above is a Hipshot Aluminum P/G and it has three holes in the arm. The original poster has a Fender unit and all Fenders (like the one below) only have two. I really don't much like the spring touching the clevis so I have an extension attached to the spring in mine to lighten the pull and keep it clear.

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