Hipshot Bender

[Tele295]

OK, I'd like to try this bend-y stuff. The Hipshot seems like the cheapest/least invasive way to test the waters - see if I can hang with a Bender. Do y'all have any tips for a novice? Do I need to cut any string slots in the bridge for a Hipshot?

Thanks

[ironweed]

Here is what most Hipshot installations require...

(1) File a notch in the backside of the bridge so the B-string can pass through

(2) If bridge saddle is not notched or threaded, file a notch or change to a different saddle for the B-string.

(3) Shim your neck at the bottom, so that the tilt angle increases, and increases the down-bearing force at the bridge to keep the B-string seated and not wallowing side to side (optional). I did find this necessary.

(4) The Hipshot attaches to the guitar by way of the strap button screw. If you can't get it seated tightly, you may choose to drill some additional screwholes through the plate and into the body for stability (optional). I did not find this necessary.

(5) Lubricate the nut slot & saddle with graphite, oil, Triflow (teflon gun lube), etc. so that the B-string won't bind when bending. This is not usually a big problem -- remember that most of us bend the 2nd string up by 2 frets in the course of normal playing, and it usually returns to pitch just fine.

[WrapAround]

I actually put one on my Strat. A friend gave me a good tip on using a Wilkinson bridge so that there is a hole in the back of the sadle. This eliminates cutting a slot on the bridge plate. Wilkinson's Tele bridge has the same saddle arrangement as well.

To compensate for the reduced string tension on the second string, what I did was to stack 2 string-trees at the headstock (on top of each other), using the bottom string tree as a spacer for the top one. the second string goes through the bottom and the first through the top. I used a graphite string-tree for the bottom one and this worked pretty well in my case.

As for the auxilary screws for the base next to the strap pin, instead of using 2 wood screws, I used 2 strips of thick doublesided tape to prevent slippage. Despite what the manual tells you, you will need additional means to secure the baseplate to the guitar. Otherwise, the unit will rock back and forth and eventually your strap pin will torque itself out. that's unless of course you are so careful with how you are hitting the bar to the point that you never touch it. I didn't want to drill 2 holes so I used some double sided tape. I also re-did the strap-pin hole (dowel, redrill) just to be safe.

hope this helps,

[JohnnyAtomic]

if you are using a vintage style bridge, a lot of the time (i'd say most) you don't have to notch the bridge for the string to clear the back lip. just slap 'er on there. it depends on the neck angle, and therefore saddle height off body. if the top of the saddles are higher than the lip of the bridge then generally no slot is required. one thing i have found is that i don't like drilling the holes for the "extra" screws beside the strap button, but the strap button screw is generally not enough. so i replace the strap button screw with one slightly bigger around (one that BARELY fits through the strap button), and about a half an inch LONGER (i have used a two inch drywall screw with good sucess). that will make the unit much more stabile and make tuning more reliable. the only hipshot i have i moved it so it is now a G bender.

good luck, a hipshot is a good way to get your feet wet with a bender. although the parsons style is the gold standard which everything is judged against. miles, email me if you have questions.

johnny atomic

[Silverface]

I've put a Hipshot on a bunch of Teles, and the only thing I've ever had to do is shim the neck on a couple to change the angle. Never had to notch a saddle...and I wouldn't want to anyway.

In any case, I'd keep the installation as simple and non-invasive as possible until you see how you like it. If you get hooked, then I'd recommend moving to a Parsons-White bender. The Hipshot is fun, but having used that and the PW for many years the Hipshot feels more like a "training wheels"" bender in comparison.

I do keep the Hipshot around to slap on guitars for fun though. It's a good tool to have on hand and very convenient.

[Tele295]

Thanks, folks. I think I'll pull the trigger with my next paycheck. Two more questions:

1. Does the Hipshot require extra clearance in the case? Those Fender form-fit cases are pretty tight - do I need extra room for the lever?

2. Stew-Mac has the Hipshot for $114. Is there a better place to buy it?

[JohnnyAtomic]

if the case fit is already tight, i'd say no it won't fit. it will fit in a standard vintage (tweed) style case.
johnny atomic

[tomtheguitarguy]

Actually, if you drill a small hole (i think 5/32" or 7/32" in the back of the bridge (the lip) low enough and use the teflon tubing that they come with (this is also the recommended way as per the Hipshot instructions), this will help with the string tension. The hole is small and this method works well. You just need to take the bridge off of the guitar to drill a proper hole w/o damaging the guitar.

I've found this method much better than filing a slot in the bridge lip - you really lose the tension down on the saddle when you do it that way.

Hope this helps. I've done it on two of my guitars - a American P/G Nashville (the hipshot is my G bender), and also my 52RI (hipshot b & g bender).

tomtheguitarguy

PS. Stewmac is a good place to buy it - reasonably priced, I purchased one there. I purchased my other one through a local guitar repair shop so they could order me the B & G bender. Either way, they sold them to me for less than what Hipshot sells them direct.

Hope this helps.

tom

[WrapAround]

Originally Posted by Tele295

Thanks, folks. I think I'll pull the trigger with my next paycheck. Two more questions:

2. Stew-Mac has the Hipshot for $114. Is there a better place to buy it?

That's where I got mine. Oh, and another thing. The best way to move those e-clips to take that D-tuner off or to adjust the position of the B-bender is with a philips screw driver. After making some space with a regular screw driver, you can stick a philips in the split and wiggle it with one hand pushing on the clip.

[ironweed]

Most people don't have snap-ring pliers in their toolbox, but they are best-suited to work with those pesky snap-rings on that position the benders on the axle.

[jwells393]

Tele 295 wrote:

1. Does the Hipshot require extra clearance in the case? Those Fender form-fit cases are pretty tight - do I need extra room for the lever?

]\

The Fender form fit cases use styrofoam for padding. It's the white styrofoam. If you lay the top of the case on a hard surface, you should be able to crush the styrofoam where the Hipshot bender touches. That's what I did with mine.
Another option is to remove the styrofoam in the top and cut some of it out above the Hipshot bender. Heating the top of the case from the outside with a hair dryer should cause the glue to release. I discovered this when I was removing stickers from the case of a guitar I purchased on Ebay. When reglueing the styrofoam use something like white Elmer's glue. Some glues will melt the styrofoam.

[jwells393]

A top loader Telecaster can be fitted with a Hipshot bender with no modification to the bridge. Same with a G&L non-classic ASAT.

[quackattack]

a few points:

1] stew mac is pretty much the cheapest to buy...way better than Ebay.

2] I agree w/ drilling a hole low on the back of the bridge and using the plastic tube washer. This gives suffcient string tension w/o having to mess w/ the neck/pocket tone interface.

3]Snap-ring pliers can be purchased at most hardware stores and are well worth it when trying to align string pull btw the bender and bridge or for removing the D-tuna.

4] I called hipshot and they they offered to trade the D-tuna for a G bender. It cost about $35.00. Much more useful to have both "B" and "G" benders.

Nonetheless, I ultimately sold the Tele w/ Hipshot and bought a '97 Tele w/ Parsons-Green b bender. I think the latter is more intuitive, easier and does not interfere w/ right hand damping/placement. If you have the chance [and $$] a neck-puller is the way to go.

[Tele295]

Quack - how does the Hipshot inrefere with right hand dampening?

[quackattack]

the hipshot stringpuller pivot arms and the frame of the unit didn't allow me to get the heel of my guitar in it's usual position. The parsons-green bender has no protrusions that interfere w/ right hand position.