Waterslide Decal - Acrylic/Nitro

Hi,

I am applying a waterslide decal to a pre nitro-lacquered headstock. I was advised to spray a couple of thin layers of acrylic spray in order to seal the inkjet print. I have got this far. I was then going to apply the decal and after 24 or so hours or so spray some layers of nitro lacquer - the same I have used to spray the neck and head with.

I have now been advised that the mix of acrylic and nitro sprays could cause a problem - i.e. cause the decal to lift and bubble?

Is it worth a try?

Thanks,

Tom

Generally speaking nitro and acrylic share the same thinners, acetone, so they should be perfectly compatible. You could just put the decal on the headstock, without over spraying it, like Fender did until 1970, or, as you say, lacquer over it for the modern look. But the easy way to check if everything will be OK is by giving the decal another waft over, but this time with nitro, which you could have done in the first place.......

If that works, and after the decal has been applied and dried, you should give the headstock a few mist coats of lacquer to initially seal the decal on the surface. When this has dried you are ready for the proper 'wet' coats, and the decal should be OK.

Thats really helpful thanks.

So, thinly nitro the decal over the acrylic before applying it. Then, if I decide to go for a pre-70s Fender look it will be a few dry coats to fix then one or very few wet coats?

Thanks

Tom

The person or persons that told you acrylic and nitro sprays could cause a problem............. take their names and never listen to them again. I've printed decals on inkjet decal paper and sprayed them with Krylon Clear Acrylic........... The instructions that came with my decal paper said to do so. I've misted clear lacquer over the applied decal followed by wet coats.

Once when I didn't apply enough Krylon Clear the ink smudged. Lesson learned.

Great thread

sorry for the dumb question- what are wet coats and dry coats?

Sorry, by 'dry' coat I suppose I meant a thin, mist like coat just to fix the decal. As opposed to a visibly wet, thicker coat!

70s Fender look it will be a few dry coats to fix then one or very few wet coats

Yes, for a 'lacquered in' look. The dry coats seal the decal and stop any wet lacquer running underneath any fine edges that are not fully down on the headstock surface. How many wet coats is debatable. You will need a lot to make the decal completely flush under the lacquer surface, a few coats if you just want a nice finish. The lacquer will dry down an awful lot, more than you think possible.

Disaster!

I've just tried a test of the nitro over acrylic - it bubbled in one portion and has lifted.

However, I get the impression that this was just too wet a layer and it would have done that anyway. For the actual one I might have to go for more than two misted layers then wet but not overly wet layers.

Tom

How dry was the acrylic? Give is a day. I've done several decals and painted several guitars with Krylon which is an acrylic lacquer and followed these with nitrocellulose lacquer without a problem. Sounds like operator error to me.

It was three days dry! Like I say the lacquer was very wet and I had only done 2 mist coats.

....A few light coats, a couple heavier coats, wet sand, steel wool, buff on the wheel. I'm getting better at after doing a couple.

http://imageigloo.com/images/4493EsquireHeadstocl.jpg

Well if all else fails go for a pre 1969 look when the decal wasn't sealed under lacquer anyway.

...even if you have built up a few layers or dry coats, putting a wet coat over the top can still cause problems because the thinners from the wet coat can still melt the first ones. just build up several dry coats and polish back by hand....not too dry mind you or they wont stick and you'll just get powdery orange peel.....even and thin....let each coat be quite dry before the next.