Adjusting truss rods - can ya overdo it???

Hi...I'm new to this version of the forum. I used to post at the old one.

I was wondering, (and excuse me if this has been covered before)... I am trying to learn to set up my guitars to cut down on the setup fees. I was adjusting the neck on my MIJ Reissue, and the relief where it was around .010 using a feeler guage, good right??,,well I started to adjust everything else, and rechecked the relief, it was a bit off (I had let the guitar set for a while, and I think it settled), so I adjusted it again back to .010. My question is, can you overadjust the truss rod?? and as long as the "gap" is right, and the neck doesn't look to have any problems is that considered right?? I fear that even though I have the gap set correctly, the neck is not set up correctly. I tend to second guess myself!..:-)

How do you guys go about a setup, or can you point me to a place where I can download in depth setup instructions. I know you're supposed to do it in a certain order, and I think I'm doing it wrong..

Thanks!!

StratKat

You CAN overdue it, but it usually takes a bit of effort to. As long as its turning without undue force, it will go okay.

Dan Erlewine has a book called "How to make your electric guitar play great". its a fine book that gives a lot of information about setups including detailed descriptions of many peoples guitars. it also includes radius gauges and gauges to set bridge arch.

Dan Erlewine has a book called "How to make your electric guitar play great". its a fine book that gives a lot of information about setups including detailed descriptions of many peoples guitars. it also includes radius gauges and gauges to set bridge arch.[/quote]

I just ordered it! Thanks :-)

I'm just so tenative about doing my own stuff. I know you have to go out of your way to actually do permanent damage to your guitar, but I'd rather have someone "hold my hand", and show me how to do the setups.

Thanks again.

find a lot about set-ups here, www.mrgrearhead,com

Ernie.

Only do a 1/4 turn at a time, retension the strings....and check. Don't force it!

If a truss rod or nut/thread is defective, then overturning can lead to breaking or severely binding something. Particularly if there's some inherent problem with the way the neck and/or truss rod rout were created. It's wise to first maintain the nut, before asking it to work for you.

My truss rod procedure ...

If the truss rod nut is at the heel (with no access), slack each string about 6-8 turns, stick on a capo at the first fret. Unbolt the neck and remove.

Remove the truss rod nut (counterclockwise rotation), clean the nut and rod threads with naphtha and a Q-tip, lube the nut with vaseline (I use white bicycle chain lithium grease), put some lube on the face of the nut (that will butt the truss rod washer inside the truss rod hole). This will allow smooth turning of the truss rod nut, and the greatest amount of movement without binding. Before screwing in that truss rod nut, take a look down the truss rod hole and see if the truss rod washer is loose and not warped and jammed into the wood - if it is, see if you can loosen it up ... a jammed washer can also jam the truss rod nut, and not allow the full range of nut adjustment. If the washer's distorted, it might be wise to replace it.

Screw in the truss rod nut 'til it just starts to seat against the truss rod washer - then give it a good full turn.

If you have a heel truss rod, time to bolt the neck back on and tune to concert pitch.

Check the neck relief at the 8th or 9th fret (I like looking at the bass "E" string) - do this by capoing at the 1st fret, depress the 6th string at the 20th fret, look at the distance from the bottom of the 6th "E" string to the top of the 8th fret ... you can measure this with a feeler gauge, if necessary - I just eyeball it. I'm looking for a very tiny gap - maybe .006". If not, keep screwing in the truss rod a 1/4 turn (or so) at a time 'til you get that very slight neck relief gap (yes, if yer truss rod nut is at the heel, you'll be taking the neck on and off more than a few times). This will make the neck quite straight, with a scant bit of bass string relief to care for the large string's oscillations.

With the neck nice and straight, you can begin the action and intonation setup, and during this process you may add or remove neck relief as dictated by the kinda action and playability yer seeking. The only real concern now will probably be if the frets are not level - you'll know that right away by string buzzing at a particular fret, and not before or after that fret ... if the buzzy fret is proud, time to level that fret ... if the buzzy fret is low, time to do a full level and crown on all the frets.

Oh, by the way ...

There are many kinds of truss rods, truss rod nuts, in terms of design and materials and craftsmanship - sometimes you absolutely must use LOTS of force/leverage to move the truss rod nut. What's considered "excessive force" is something you learn over time ... 8)

Thanks guys!!

I guess, like a lot of newbie techs, I'm worried about getting the settings "right". I guess as long as the rod is actually adjusting the relief, and you're not forcing it, there's nothing to worry about, but you hear so many horror stories about screwing a neck up. That's the great thing about bolt on necks though, worst case scenario, you're buying another neck!

Cheers..

stratkat