May 16th, 2006, 09:52 AM
I'm still debating whether or not to buy a neck with a compound radius. There were several things I was worried about- is the action thrown off by compound radius? It seems like on a 7.5-9.5" radius, the strings would be higher at the nut than higher up the neck. Also, wouldn't intonation be negatively affected by this design? I haven't heard much bad feedback on compound radii, but it seems like these would be problems for a lot of people. Not to mention, a simple fret leveling could be quite difficult!
May 16th, 2006, 11:31 AM
Don't hesitate....do it.
Way I think about it:
each string, from nut to saddle, is a straight line.
The tops of the frets directly under a given string ,on the compound radius neck (if "leveled" correctly), also delineate a straight line (not counting "relief", i.e., intentional neck bow).
So you should be able to set string height, or level frets, or set relief with no problem.
The compound radius necks have radii that are flattening out as you go up the neck. It stands to reason that the radius described by the nut cuts should be slightly smaller that at the first fret and the radius described by the saddle heights should slightly more (flatter) than the radius at the last fret.
Intonation is set by considering distances that are perpendicular to the frets (and their associated changing radii) so the compound radius doesn't factor in on that adjustment IMHO.
I love my Warmoth compound radius necks. I think they transistion from 10" to 17" (is that right?).
Maybe I would like a compound radius neck that transitions between two OTHER radii (as a custom job) but I'm not sure what those other radii would be...maybe 9 to 14 or something.
Do it ....it's a no brainer.
More important is to order the neck profile that you want (thick, thin, fat, wide, V, C).
And the neck width at the nut...
I had a Warmoth neck (picked up second hand) that had a 1.75" width at the nut. It was too wide. The fretboard edges irritated my fretting hand...ex: couldn't hook my thumb over the top of the neck comfortably.
And ordering the frets you want is important.
May 16th, 2006, 12:45 PM
I think you're worrying way too much.
May 17th, 2006, 10:26 AM
I have bought a few and really liked em. they feel a bit flat in farmers corner at first but they are very comfy and you get used to it quick
May 17th, 2006, 02:09 PM
I had (sold it to get a Strat) that had a compound radius - 10-13 conical form - never had any issues at all with that neck . . . one of the best necks this guy has ever played on!!!
But I love playing on Fender necks more . . .
May 20th, 2006, 07:02 PM
A little off topic (sorry) but reading about compound radius made me think of Warmoth which then made me think of the other specs of a neck. So, my "stream of conciousness" leads me to this question:
Are neck builders (i.e. Warmoth , U.S.A.C.G. etc.) set up to reproduce neck profiles? I measured my old neck and, even with the exact measurements, the neck I had built doesn't have the same back contour. Not that I'm dissatisfied or anything, but am just wondering how to duplicate a neck shape.
If I were to ship my old neck to one of these builders, is there a way they can scan it for exact contour and reproduce it? Also, IF this can be done, would the fact that the old neck has a slight warp (the reason I replaced it) skew a scan so that any new neck would end up with the identical warp (which is not something I want duplicated lol).
May 20th, 2006, 08:12 PM
Tommy @ USACG will duplicate a neck profile for you.
He's done my MIM James Burton neck, but I had him do a compound radius (7¼" to 9½") on it.
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