bebopalula March 22nd, 2006, 10:02 PM i remember seeing this on a Tele-Clone(japan?)...
a sort of machined bar with six string holes...like this:
http://www.tdpri.com/telephoto/data/552/Tele_String-Ferrule-Bar_.JPG
any idea where such a thing might be for sale?
thanks.
Tedecaster March 22nd, 2006, 11:17 PM Looks like the bottom of a Strat trem block. Get out the hacksaw...
bebopalula March 22nd, 2006, 11:47 PM i remember seeing this on a Tele-Clone(japan?)...
a sort of machined bar with six string holes...like this:
http://www.tdpri.com/telephoto/data/552/Tele_String-Ferrule-Bar_.JPG
any idea where such a thing might be for sale?
thanks.
Edit:
this image shows the original more
accurately...
http://www.tdpri.com/telephoto/data/552/Tele_String-Ferrule-Bar_-2.JPG
the rounded ends here(vs. the first pic)
simplify the rout/installation process.
one pass with a bit,and the bar can drop into the rout.
_____________________
PS - did George & Leo (G&L) ever use this configuration to do their string-thru bodies??
jwells393 March 23rd, 2006, 12:11 AM G&L ASAT Classics use something like that. The Tribute imports use individual string ferrules. The six string block is one way of identifying an American G&L. I seriously doubt they would sell you one.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/ACBR.jpg
bebopalula March 23rd, 2006, 12:27 AM maybe one made up out of rosewood or hard maple
would do the job just as well.
i'm scheming up a dano/Tele-Thinline plywood/center block
cheapo body,and was looking for a quick-and-dirty for the string ferrules,and remembered that japanese string-block.
Leo beat me to it,looks like.
JMPRO March 24th, 2006, 06:28 PM I made a bar like that for my tele clone out of brass. It worked pretty good.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y232/JMPRO/ce729d17.jpg
I installed it after the guitar was already finished and bunged up the finish.
JMPRO
0le FUZZY March 24th, 2006, 07:01 PM <li>WOW!!!
<li>I like this idea a lot!
<li>I betcha iffin Leo hadda thunk it up on the first go roun we wood haff all our TELECASTERs li kiss now.
<li>Really neat and I'm sittin here thinkin aluminum and like the brass idea tew.
<li>Thanx!!!
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JMPRO March 24th, 2006, 09:05 PM Now that i think about it you could make the block without the attaching screws as they are not really needed. You could just make the block to a interferance fit into the route and the strings would hold it in place.
JMPRO
bebopalula March 25th, 2006, 06:21 AM glad i could give a bit back.
:lol:
___________________________
JMPRO -
thanks for the pic!
http://www.tdpri.com/telephoto/data/552/String-Thru_Block_Brass_-_JMPRO.JPG
it may even have been your photos
i'd seen originally,and was trying to recall
back up the page.
and i believe you're right:
it wouldn't need the screws.
you may have a small market for your
part if word were to get around
to the TDPRI tele-freak-builders.
(maybe you could mfg them
and get stewmac.com to sell them for ya...hmmm??)
it simplifies the string-thru drilling
that a LOT of people really dread.
:shock:
The String King March 25th, 2006, 06:35 AM You still have to drill string-thru holes, just not as deeply. Sounds like a good idea though... Does it improve the tone? I may have to try this on my partsacaster (when I start it.)
chickenpicker March 25th, 2006, 06:43 AM When I changed my toploader to string through, I thought about making a single sunk-in block (with screw holes in the ends). Then I was in a music shop, and they had six ferrules fo £3.99, so I bought them instead.
I wish I'd jigged the job when drilling the back of the body, as they're slightly misaligned.
One thing I did do right: several layers of masking tape before drilling through the paint = no chipping.
JMPRO March 25th, 2006, 12:47 PM I thought of making them myself but i would have to make a jig and then stand there cutting the parts to lenght and drilling holes all day long to make a couple of dozen parts- thats not my idea of fun. I looked into having a cnc shop make them for me but i would have to make a couple of hundred at a time to make the set up costs pay off and i figured if i could make one any good tele freak could make his own. As you can see in the pic each hole has 3 different operations on it, drill through, counterbore and then the hole is countersunk so this 18 functions for each part just to get the holes and that doesn't include cutting to lenght, rounding the ends and polishing.
As far as the tone or sound enhancement, i put this one on a tele clone that was a top loader and the difference was quite surprizing. The guitar was brighter and each string seemed to be more clear in the mix. I could not say for certain that it would do the same on every guitar but on this one i was very pleased at the outcome.
JMPRO
BrianF March 25th, 2006, 12:51 PM I think this is a GREAT idea...a big improvement over the individual string ferrules.
chickenpicker March 25th, 2006, 04:09 PM As far as the tone or sound enhancement, i put this one on a tele clone that was a top loader and the difference was quite surprizing. The guitar was brighter and each string seemed to be more clear in the mix.
For a more accurate comparison, you'd need to change from six ferrules to one block, rather than from toploader to string through, as that change in itself makes a difference. Well, it did when I changed mine.
JMPRO March 26th, 2006, 02:18 PM I have an extra block i made and won't be using it. Send me your address and i'll mail it to you.
jerryjmproduct@aol.com
JMPRO
jdarkis March 26th, 2006, 05:57 PM This is a great idea, something I will have to look into in the near future when I drill out my toploader. Good work!
Jason.
bebopalula March 26th, 2006, 07:28 PM I have an extra block i made and won't be using it. Send me your address and i'll mail it to you.
jerryjmproduct@aol.com
JMPRO
very kind of you.
here's the project it would be going into...
i've had Thinline GAS for a while,
and the Dano's seem to be of similar construction...
so i thought i'd give it a try:
http://www.tdpri.com/telephoto/data/538/Dano_-_B_W_pic.JPG
the Dano Burger
http://www.tdpri.com/telephoto/data/538/medium/Dano_Tele_Thinline_-_Parts_1.JPG
Parts
http://www.tdpri.com/telephoto/data/538/medium/Dano_Tele_Thinline_-_Interior_2.JPG
Interior
http://www.tdpri.com/telephoto/data/538/medium/Dano_Tele_Thinline_-_Exterior_3.JPG
Exterior(Front)
email sent off with address info.
thanks again,JMPRO.
jwells393 March 26th, 2006, 07:52 PM Interesting construction method. Looks like it would save a lot of time hollowing out a solid body and also make use of narrow lumber. Keep us posted on your progress. Good job.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Animations/ThumbsUp.gif
bebopalula March 26th, 2006, 10:41 PM Interesting construction method. Looks like it would save a lot of time hollowing out a solid body and also make use of narrow lumber.
Keep us posted on your progress. Good job.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/jwells393/Animations/ThumbsUp.gif
thanks,393...i consider that
quite a compliment coming from someone
with skills like yours.
jwells393 March 27th, 2006, 10:34 AM bebopalula,
The content of this thread has changed from the string block to your thinline project. You might consider giving your project its own thread and title..... or editing the title of this one to reflect the project content.
bebopalula March 27th, 2006, 06:14 PM point taken.
bebopalula April 5th, 2006, 01:08 AM sorry for the delay in responding.
the String-THRU-Bar arrived
a few days ago in the mail,
but PC problems
have made it difficult to post a thank you.
JMPRO sent me a brass String-THRU-Bar
very much like the one up the page.
nicely polished too.
will post a pic in a bit.
JMPRO April 5th, 2006, 04:14 PM Glad to be of some help. You could cut off the mounting holes and load it into a tight fit hole so it doesn't fall out when you change the strings. Show us some pics when its installed.
JMPRO
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