Callaham vintage repro trem block

It was seeing this topic come up again & again that finally motivated me to order a new block for my MIJ 50s strat.

Those of you who've done this mod know what a huge difference it can make, so I'm just posting for the benefit of players who might be thinking of doing this.

I already loved my Strat, but the steel block has made a phenominal improvement in my tone, volume & sustain. My tremblock was just as big as the Callaham, so it's just the design and material that's responsible for the surprising change.

I was concerned about the compatability of the threads on the original arm, so I ordered the "64" trem arm as well. The old one still fits just fine, but I'm sold on the 64. It's about an inch shorter and allows me to hold the bar while I'm playing, something I've always found hard to do in the past.

Bill was a real pleasure to deal with & I got my stuff fast. Thanks to all for hipping me to this guy's great work.

jb

No experience of the strat trem, but I ordered some Tele parts from Callaham and you're right, very courteous and great quality.

International order too, no probs :wink:

It's difficult to believe that such an improvement of tone can occur by switching out a tremolo block/tremolo unit. I was extremely skeptical about it. But I ordered a couple of the Callaham blocks, and everything is true. The difference is phenomenal.

And, yes, Bill is a very kind fellow who is happy to address any questions or concerns one might have. A real gentleman.

Joel

I have his block on my Splattercaster and it made a phenominal difference as compared to the little potmetal one that came on it.

I have his block on my Splattercaster and it made a phenominal difference as compared to the little potmetal one that came on it.


That's the key really. It depends entirely on which Stratocaster you're putting the block on. Not all Strats are created equal. Caveat emptor.

Could you quantify the tonal improvement a bit? Did it brighten up the guitar or warm it up? Did it make it more articulate? What exactly was/were the improvement(s)?

Could you quantify the tonal improvement a bit? Did it brighten up the guitar or warm it up? Did it make it more articulate? What exactly was/were the improvement(s)?

It's tough to articulate the sound of the improvement, Drew; suffice it to say, the volume (plugged or unplugged) and sustain are noticeably increased.

Plus, all of the parts are cold hardened and are machined to spec tolerances to the millionths of an inch. So, the parts hold up very well, and the knife edge of the fulcrum is virtually flawless--and no flaws in the machining of the knife edge means less friction, which in turn means more stable tuning when using the vibrato.

Joel

The Callaham block makes the most difference if you are replacing a zinc or pot metal block.

You can hear a giant difference on those. Replacing a steel Fender trem block also makes a slight difference but no where near the difference I hear when a zinc MIM or MIJ block is replaced.

The other trick thing about the bridge is the string saddles have longer slots so strings dont break as easy.

Callaham makes good stuff delivers quick and doesnt lie my kinda place.

Could you quantify the tonal improvement a bit? Did it brighten up the guitar or warm it up? Did it make it more articulate? What exactly was/were the improvement(s)?

In addition to the increased volume & sustain that I mentioned in my original post, there's also a huge difference in tone. Warmer AND brighter at the same time - more upper mids, snappier lows, the guitar does seem more 'articulate' in that the notes just jump out.

As many posters have pointed out, I wouldn't have heard as much of a difference on a US made strat, but replacing the Japanese zinc (pot-metal) block makes for a truly astonishing transformation. I really didn't think that this guitar could sound that much better.

I had stripped out the threads on the old block within weeks of buying the guitar, and the new block has been engineered so precisely that the arm comes to the end of it's travel right beside the output jack, and fits really tight, with no slop at all.

Bill's cut down "64" arm is also a real improvement on the stock part. Much more comfortable to hold while you're playing, for those Scott Henderson/Jeff Beck/Hank Marvin moments.
jb

I can't see the advantage of using a steel block, as steel is only marginally heavier than zinc.
What is the concensus on a brass or lead block?

I find that a lead block in my strat gives a good sound when I'm playing Stairway to Heaven.

I can't see the advantage of using a steel block, as steel is only marginally heavier than zinc.
What is the concensus on a brass or lead block?

It's not just the weight that matters. Zinc is a tone sink. It rings like a turd!

Is it really the block by itself improving the tone? I'm sure when you change the block, you're installing a fresh set of strings, quite possibly a different make of strings that may have more to do with improving your sound than the block.

Unless you re strung it with the old strings, how can you possibly tell?

The ear hears what it wants to hear. Call me a skeptic!

Yup, here we go again! Been away from this site for a few months and lo and behold!!!!:- 'Magic Pixie Dust Far Superior To Anything Made By Fender' aftermarket parts rear their heads once again.....for those of us with, arguably, too much money and too little time to practise and play better!

Just been reading the 50 anniversary stratocaster book by Tom Wheeler, and one of the comments in it concerns Fender's apparent quality decline in the mid 70's to 1981. This he argues, effectively, made a living for Seymour Duncan, DiMarzio et al.....which continues to this day.

I dunno what year your MIJ strat is, but some of the best strats I ever played were early 1981 Tokais and Squiers, probably better than the US made re-issues that followed in response to Tokai's audacious guitars.

You could spend plenty money - and I see in this forum that clearly some have done exactly that - buying a 'Fender' made by another maanufacturer, big or small, an unauthentic copy, and convince yourself the detail and tolerances of the parts make it WAY superior to the Fender original.

Then some day, some kid will be playing an old mid 70's bog standard tele or strat and just blow you away. The main reason being he didn't have the money, but he DID have the time to get real sharp and tasty, and a lot of the 'tone' and ALL of the mojo come from your fingers, not some amiable old Billy Go-Get-'Em super detailed fender copy made in a back yard. :lol:

Also, we'll just see who gets the most when it comes to selling; me with my tatty old '65 stratocaster or some Billy Go-Get 'Em clone with a real 'steel' bridge. Gee, my knees are shaking just thinking about it. :lol:

Put the wallets away, boys, and get playin' :wink:

Put the wallets away, boys, and get playin' :wink:

Who says you can't do both? 8)

I find that a lead block in my strat gives a good sound when I'm playing Stairway to Heaven.

ROFLMAO!!! Good Zeppelin joke! :D

Is it really the block by itself improving the tone? I'm sure when you change the block, you're installing a fresh set of strings, quite possibly a different make of strings that may have more to do with improving your sound than the block.

Unless you re strung it with the old strings, how can you possibly tell?

I'm sure the new strings are temporarily part of it. But Fender likes to cut costs, especially on it's non-Custom Shop and non-American Strat models. Pot metal (zinc in this case. Plumbers use(d) a copper and lead alloy for fixtures.)

As said above, it just doesn't ring like steel. It's cheap, inexpensive, and of poor quality. Cheap jewelry is also made from pot metal.

Putting a steel replacement block, such as the one Callaham offers, in place of a pot metal block will improve the tone greatly. It's one of the best upgrades you can do if you've got, say, a Mexican made Squier.

I say yes, a steel block is a big, nay, a huge improvement over the zinc block of a MIM or MIJ Strat. But there is the self delusional aspect to this issue, as spankmasterflash so rightly points out. Changing strings and doing a fresh setup, both aspects of installing a new block, can make the diffference seem just a little better than it really is. But it begs the question though, why not just put in a Fender steel block? Its much cheaper without the optional hype.

Well I can tell you the reason I'm replacing the trem block on my 18 yr old am std. For 18 years, those deep tremolo holes have made me madder 'n hell every time I have to fish a string out.

I'll be glad to have shallow holes. If it sounds as good, I'll be happy.

I say yes, a steel block is a big, nay, a huge improvement over the zinc block of a MIM or MIJ Strat. But there is the self delusional aspect to this issue, as spankmasterflash so rightly points out. Changing strings and doing a fresh setup, both aspects of installing a new block, can make the diffference seem just a little better than it really is. But it begs the question though, why not just put in a Fender steel block? Its much cheaper without the optional hype.

It's not that much cheaper since you can't buy the fender block separate unless you want to buy a used bridge.

So now you can get a fender bridge for 80$ or spend an extra 20$ for a callaham unit with a properly cut base, hardened saddles, stainless screws, springs, bar and have a trem block with shallow holes that make it easy to dig out broken strings; it was worth the extra 20$ to me...

It's not that much cheaper since you can't buy the fender block separate unless you want to buy a used bridge.

I'll beg to differ on that. A Fender steel block is $20. Check the link below.

http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/gbridge_tremblocks.htm