First Build: Black Walnut Tele

I have been looking around on this forum for about a month, planning my build. Considering double-cutaways, semi-hollows, inside out and upside down versions of a Telecaster, but in the end I decided that, in my opinion, I couldn't make anything any more perfect than the standard shaped Tele! (please criticise everything!)

I bought a big off cut slab O' walnut really cheap from a local wood shop (???). Seeing as I didn't have a biscuit jointer, I dowel jointed it for my two-piece body. I guess this is good enough?

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/538986_490620100949489_1967787499_n.jpg

To join it I used Titebond "ultimate" wood glue, I'm guessing this is good? Any input to whether I need to rip it apart and start again would be much appreciated...

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/383908_490693140942185_1761699417_n.jpg

Thanks for reading! I will hopefully add many pictures of the build as I go, If I remember that is...

Your dowel joints should be fine as long as you don't cut through one when you cut out the shape. I use regular wood glue, but the stuff you used will be OK. I love walnut - keep the pics coming. Good luck with it.

Walnut=good!!!
I do quite a bit of woodworking, and find Titebond II more to my liking. Titebond III is more for waterproof applications, outdoor furniture, etc.
Also, dowels and/or biscuits don't offer any real strength, only assist in alignment. A proper jointed edge, glued and clamped correctly will usually never fail, the wood around the joint will crack instead.
Good luck with your build, and enjoy the process!

You really don't need any biscuits or dowels.. Not even the big manufacturers use them.

Wow! Thanks for so many replies so quick! Now I know that my guitar won't fall apart while I'm playing it! (if it gets finished, that is!) Any recommendations for cutting the shape out? I've only got access to a jigsaw and a table saw. I may be able to borrow other tools from various different people though.

Don't worry, I'll keep the pictures coming!

A bandsaw is probably the best for cutting out the body, followed by routing to a template. If you use your jigsaw, keep wide of the line until you are sure of how plumb it is cutting - if it's off-plumb, it will bite into the good wood. Use the table saw to reduce the size of the blank as far as possible. If you have a tenoning jig or similar for the table saw, you could perhaps make some additional relieving cuts in the waste at the waist of the guitar before using the jigsaw. Good luck with your project.

My understanding is that Titebond Original is preferred over II or III for guitar work. Dries harder... less creep...

Your dowelled blanks with Titebond III are probably fine... I don't think I'd redo them.

A jig saw is OK for rough cutting the shape of the body... be sure to make a lot of relief cuts to help avoid undercutting.

With a jig saw on the tighter curves, be sure to cut well away from the line as the twist you impart to make the tight turns usually results in a tendency for the blade to wander, sometimes into your workpiece and not into the waste. Must be something to do with Murphy's Law, but that seems to be the way it happens.

Walnut is probably the most beautiful wood there is, IMHO. Looking forward to following your build.

PS-- You don't have time to build guitars, you obviously spend too much time on that beautiful garden!:lol:

If you use a jigsaw, drill holes at good intervals to allow for making the turns, and stay at least 3/16" way from the lines. The bottom of the blade may drift inward on you and make for a smaller guitar body. Have plenty of new blades, too, because that walnut will wear them down. Then sand within a 1/32" to the lines, and then use a template bearing on a router bit (make an MDF or plywood template precisely to have something to follow). There are a lot of threads on this forum, all more knowledgeable than I am, and follow them carefully. Wisdom here abounds - ask questions - answers will come back quickly.

Thanks for the help! Much appreciated! Won't be uploading any photos today as I will just leave it to dry :smile:

II is a yellow glue in color and III is brown in color when dry. I switch between the two for the type/color of woods I am gluing up.

My understanding is that Titebond Original is preferred over II or III for guitar work. Dries harder... less creep...

Your dowelled blanks with Titebond III are probably fine... I don't think I'd redo them.

A jig saw is OK for rough cutting the shape of the body... be sure to make a lot of relief cuts to help avoid undercutting.

I've used Elmer's "dark wood" carpenter's glue with Walnut with good results. It is a very close match to the color of walnut. Also Titebond "Liquid Hide" glue which is a golden color.

But really, with well jointed surfaces you won't see the glue even if you use plain white glue like Titebond 1 which I also use a lot.

There is a very minimal gap between the two pieces, due to my awful joining! Would I be able to mix some of the titebond (pictures above) with some sawdust from the walnut, then push this into the gap to hide my mistake? Has anyone done this before, and with good/bad results?

use a table saw and cut the glue line... after, you should have a nice straight line to glue up....

trying to rig a mistake like that will always haunt you, fix it correctly and you will be glad you did

use a table saw and cut the glue line... after, you should have a nice straight line to glue up....

trying to rig a mistake like that will always haunt you, fix it correctly and you will be glad you did

The slit is only ~3mm deep, bad planing (I don't have access to a thicknesser) caused the edges to not align correctly. The rest is connecting flat, so will glue well, so the 3 - 4mm deep slit on the front won't weaken the joint, will it? This was why I thought about filling the gap with sawdust and glue, sorry for lack of information :mrgreen:

Pictures would help us advise you. I've filled gaps with sawdust and glue before. If its not too wide you can probably do it alright.

Another trick is to lay out the body so that any of your boo-boos in the center seam will be cut out (in the control or pickup cavities, neck pocket, etc) or hidden under the pickguard.

Pictures would help us advise you. I've filled gaps with sawdust and glue before. If its not too wide you can probably do it alright.

Another trick is to lay out the body so that any of your boo-boos in the center seam will be cut out (in the control or pickup cavities, neck pocket, etc) or hidden under the pickguard.

Will do, thanks for the advice! :smile:

Today I have cut out the body shape from the jointed black walnut. Quite difficult using a jigsaw, but not too much undercut! In fact, the little undercutting that did occur gives the body a more comfortable feel!

Anyway, on with the photos, of which I only have a few! Sorry, but I completely forgot to take them during jig sawing! I will take photos of the body, fully cut out, tomorrow.

Here is the join, it didn't need filling as it sorted itself out...

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/599326_10151097347256382_1274009142_n.jpg

And here is the joined piece, I used this side as the front face of the body...

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/394411_10151097345786382_1991428719_n.jpg

I'll post photos of the body ASAP :grin:

After about 15 mins rough sanding, here's the result:

Front:
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/217823_492098204135012_1015890218_n.jpg

Back:
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/527929_492098270801672_481624933_n.jpg

Sides:
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/409646_492098354134997_2061523107_n.jpg

I think I might leave some slight burns around the edges as, In my opinion, it actually looks quite cool!

You might like the looks of the burns and uneven sanding now, but when you apply finish it will probably look terrible. My opinion only!

The crack between the boards at the joint may be from using Titebond III. I've heard the stuff (like Gorilla Glue) expands before curing. I would have sawn the boards apart and retried the edge surfacing with a hand plane, then re-glue with Titebond I. I met a former Gibson employee at a woodworking store, and he says that's what Gibson uses by the buckets full. Good enough for me then.

As for the burns, take the time with a piece of dowel rod wrapped in sandpaper to remove them. You'll only regret it later if you don't do it now. Much harder to fix after the finish is already on the body!!

One good way to hide that seam would be to route a channel and inlay a stripe of contrasting wood...

Just a thought...

One good way to hide that seam would be to route a channel and inlay a stripe of contrasting wood...

Just a thought...

That's funny, I had that thought too! After sanding though the join line is near invisible :mrgreen: Success!


With a jig saw on the tighter curves, be sure to cut well away from the line as the twist you impart to make the tight turns usually results in a tendency for the blade to wander, sometimes into your workpiece and not into the waste. Must be something to do with Murphy's Law, but that seems to be the way it happens.

Walnut is probably the most beautiful wood there is, IMHO. Looking forward to following your build.

PS-- You don't have time to build guitars, you obviously spend too much time on that beautiful garden!:lol:

Sorry for the late reply, mustn't have read through the thread properly! I agree, walnut is beautiful, and the piece I have is no exception! It has a lovely grain to it.
The jigsaw did undercut just a little, but nothing too drastic!
Thanks a lot, you're really kind about the garden! I can agree also, because it's not mine! It is in fact my grandads garden, i'm doing a lot of the work at my grandads as he is a retired carpenter with a small workshop. (he rarely uses his tools now, a shame really :cry: ) He does put a lot of time into his garden though! :lol:

Thanks,
Sam

I spent the whole of today sanding the body, it took an age!

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/394399_492274890784010_697583071_n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/195927_492274960784003_1095364743_n.jpg

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/402926_492275050783994_814005258_n.jpg

My (very little) experience from this build so far has taught me that to build guitars yourself, you must be either brave, or stupid! I'm guessing you guys are the brave lot for sticking by it, and I'm the stupid one for even trying! Especially as I have very limited tool access (Not even to a drill press :oops: ).
I'm very pleased with the result so far, the texture is almost glass-like! As you may see, I have left some slight burn marks, but only enough to see if I like it or not (they're on the under side). The join is nearly invisible, in my opinion. Would shellac be a good choice of finish, as that is what I have in mind?

The body is looking good, but if you don't sand out those marks on the edges, you'll never forgive yourself. Do it now before finish, it will be harder to do then, and I guarantee you will do it!!!

The body is looking good, but if you don't sand out those marks on the edges, you'll never forgive yourself. Do it now before finish, it will be harder to do then, and I guarantee you will do it!!!

Thanks! The burn marks in the picture are the only ones left, also they are on the bottom curve, so I won't really see them as my leg will be there anyway! :razz: (they're also fainter than in the photo, they are barely noticeable!
I am really curious of what they'll look like! I'll post a few pictures at the end of the burn marks and see is people like/dislike them. (probably dislike, I know, but they may give the guitar a slight worn, old, not-quite-relic'd look, which I quite like the idea of :lol:

Won't be doing any work, or posting any pictures today. I have a game of cricket, then fishing! I'll be back working on the now-not-so-large chunk O' walnut straight after though!

Sorry for another rather newbie-ish question! I'm going to buy two switches from my local electronics store, a DPDT and a SPST. I am planning on wiring the switches to the diagram below.

My question is:

What of every measurable variable must it be? Is there a specific voltage, amperage, etc, that the switches must be?

Guitar pickups are very low voltage (millivolts to low volts) and very low current (microamps to milliamps). Just about any switch you can buy will work!

Guitar pickups are very low voltage (millivolts to low volts) and very low current (microamps to milliamps). Just about any switch you can buy will work!

I wasn't sure, I'm completely new to any kind of slightly advanced electronics! Thanks a lot!

Went to rout out the pickup and control cavity, but the router had packed up...
I had to resort to drilling out the cavities. Sorry if I offend anyone by calling what I did after, to shape the holes, "chiselling." I had never held a chisel before in my life!

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/484457_493240504020782_1792787066_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/574651_493240537354112_259194478_n.jpg

I haven't taken a photo of them fully chiselled and filed/sanded. Will put one up soon, to hopefully redeem myself...

You're doing well!! Keep us posted.

Chiselling is probably the most fun hand tool.. In the world.

Chiselling is probably the most fun hand tool.. In the world.

Yeah! Probably the most destructive too! :lol:

One good way to hide that seam would be to route a channel and inlay a stripe of contrasting wood...

Just a thought...

Or a strip of banding. This stuff comes in all sorts of patterns. Checkerboard, herringbone, etc:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/149611.jpg

I use chisels for cavity work pretty often. Theres really no other way to get a sharp 90 deg. corner if you need one. They're also great to use after drilling out cavities, so that the router only cuts the last little bit.

I use chisels for cavity work pretty often. Theres really no other way to get a sharp 90 deg. corner if you need one. They're also great to use after drilling out cavities, so that the router only cuts the last little bit.

Ditto.

I also used a chisel on the cavities of my guitar because I was too scared to route them after it destroyed my first body. If you take your time chisels work great.

Thanks for the info guys! I'll have a look for some of that banding! Sorry for lack of picture posting recently, will be back to work in the next few days!

Warning! Newbie question follows!
Today I went out and bought a DPDT snd a SPST switch (already have a 4-wire humbucker!). I was wanting to wire my guitar with just one humbucker (in the bridge position), just like in the picture below:

http://www.1728.org/humbuck6.gif

But my very newbie-ish question is:

I have 1 tone pot and 1 volume pot, but how would I wire from the switch (diagram above) to these potentiometers, then to the output jack? Also, seeing as this is my first build, could someone tell me exactly where to ground the wires that must me grounded (I'm a complete newbie!).
e.g. I don't know what to do as there are two wires that come from the switch, a "-" wire and a "+" one...

Also, please could you refer to seymour duncan wire colours if possible please :razz:
Thanks so very much!

I'm not going to take the time to explain, instead, I'll let seymour duncan. http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=color_codes

All the information you need is in there.

Thanks, I've already looked at the SD diagram site, but couldn't find what I needed on there as it doesn't have info on dpdt switches. I'll have another look!

Thanks for the reply! I have already looked at the SD wiring diagrams, butnone use a dpdt switch! I'm slightly confused as to what to do with the negative and positive outputs from the dpdt switch.

To be honest I don't even know what a dpdt switch is. Maybe PM jimdkc he seems to know what he's talking about, as he's proven over on the simple, cheap winder thread.

dpdt = double pole, double throw

The + and - should go on to your volume and tone controls... + is the signal and - is ground.

Thanks guys! So, do I have to ground the negative to the back of the volume pot, or can I ground it to the bridge or something?

Normally all the grounds go to the back of the pots (mainly because that's a convenient place with enough solderable real estate to solder a bunch of wires!)... don't forget the bridge ground, too!

You want all your grounds connected, then soldered to the bridge. When I put a hsh in my strat the ground got messed up, and it hums terribly. Luckily my amp has a noise gate, and it doesn't hum when I touch the strings, so we're all good.

I bought a neck from my local music shop, it came from a replica telecaster. Only £30! (~$47) I'm not sure on how to make the neck pocket straight. I think I'll just make a template and practice on some scrap wood.

Here is a headstock logo that I made in Photoshop, not sure how to attach it to the headstock, I'll probably think of something!

I am also thinking of finishing the body with some mahogany beeswax, as I have a very large tin for our table. I was thinking this would be appropriate, but would I have to do several layers of shellac first?

Walnut works very well with oil finishes. They look good and are easy to apply.

I did my walnut tele in lacquer.
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z352/ElijahGardener/8626d55d.jpg


Walnut is a nice wood for guitars. Very hard and has a well balanced sound to it. Very sharp attack, however, so warmer pickups often work well.

Wow, Yours looks absolutely BEAUTIFUL! So not a good idea to shellac, then beeswax? Does walnut give good sustain? That's one of the reasons I decided to build from it! (I thought it would sustain well due to its weight/density) I'm just using a single (four wire) humbucker in the bridge, with series/parallel/split functions.

What lacquer did you use?

I tested some things I had around the house on some of the leftover black walnut. Teak oil, carnauba wax, beeswax, and a mahogany coloured carnauba/bees-wax. I found that the mahogany wax brought out the grain of the wood much more, and gave it a better shine and darkness in colour. I have seen a few just-wax-finished guitars on the internet, so thought I might give it a go....

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/545875_496076807070485_1136283474_n.jpg

Here it is after the first coat of the mahogany-coloured-carnauba-beeswax. I'm not sure how many layers I should do as a minimum, but the tin says that more layers will give increased hardness and shine, so I will do as many as possible....

(you may notice that I haven't routed the neck pocket yet, this is due to not being able to visit my grandads and use the router. A bit backwards finishing before the pocket, but I have very limited time! :oops: )

Does walnut give good sustain? That's one of the reasons I decided to build from it! (I thought it would sustain well due to its weight/density) I'm just using a single (four wire) humbucker in the bridge, with series/parallel/split functions.

My thinline is done in walnut - it sustains until the cows come home. never tried doing a fully solid body in it, but I am sure that would sustain equally well.

My thinline is done in walnut - it sustains until the cows come home. never tried doing a fully solid body in it, but I am sure that would sustain equally well.

Is yours a bolt on neck? My build will have a bolt-on, which will decrease sustain :sad:

Is yours a bolt on neck? My build will have a bolt-on, which will decrease sustain :sad:

Yes, bolt on. I am not entirely convinced bolt-on necks have less sustain. I don't know how one could do an experiment to prove it either way though.

Yes, bolt on. I am not entirely convinced bolt-on necks have less sustain. I don't know how one could do an experiment to prove it either way though.

And still good sustain!? I wonder why is walnut not considered a "tone wood" and used in more guitars? :confused:

Tru Oil is a great finish for walnut. Can you get that in the UK?

Tru Oil is a great finish for walnut. Can you get that in the UK?

I've looked for it, as I have heard how good it is! Sadly, I couldn't find any in local firearms dealers or DIY stores :cry: I tried out a few things on some of the leftover black walnut, and found that mohogany coloured carnauba-bees-wax looks great! I suppose this is suitable as a guitar finish?

Do a google search using just pages from the UK. Quite a few possibilities seem to come up. I have never got it myself to recommend anywhere in particular. Worst case (?) scenario it seems readily available in the Uk on eBay.

This (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Birchwood-Casey-Tru-Oil-Gun-Stock-Finish-3oz-/190719503124?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingS ports_ET&hash=item2c67c4ab14) is where I went when I wanted Tru Oil. I've done 2 bodies and a neck with a bottle that size.

I think other products are out there though that are very similar - Liberon Finishing Oil etc.

Thanks for the link! But as I have already started using wax on the body, I will hold off from buying. If the end product isn't satisfactory with the wax finish I will definately use Tru Oil! I may even re-finish at a later date!

Yesterday I finally got to route the neck pocket! Had to improvise a jig to compensate for the routers guide ring, and it worked!

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/253104_501373636540802_998391429_n.jpg

The neck pocket:

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/540148_501373653207467_1872654434_n.jpg

Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No! It's a really-badly-improvised-neck-pocket-routing-jig!

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/404090_501373673207465_597650879_n.jpg

Here's the control plate layout, to give you an idea for how I'm gonna' wire it up!

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/270733_501399019871597_22549152_n.jpg

...And here are all the pieces in place, kind of....

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/249632_501399103204922_1214708736_n.jpg

Extremely artistic angle: :lol:

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/309213_501399263204906_870440470_n.jpg

I'm going to have to make the pickup surround plate, as I bought the bridge from a friend who had a cheap old guitar. This is actually a bit of a budget-caster!

I did my walnut tele in lacquer.
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z352/ElijahGardener/8626d55d.jpg

That is some guitar porn, right there. Do you have any more pictures?

That is some guitar porn, right there. Do you have any more pictures?

+1 :razz:

I am about to attach the neck, but can I just use "normal" wood screws? I have four 1 3/4" x 10 wood screws, would these be fine to attach the neck to the body? Also, how much bigger should the holes on the body be?

And still good sustain!? I wonder why is walnut not considered a "tone wood" and used in more guitars? :confused:

Mine sustains better than any other guitar I've owned. And, yes it has a bolt on neck and is nearly completely hollow.

Walnut is a terrific, well balanced tonewood but can be finicky about pickup choices. I suspect that's why we don't see it used more in guitars. That and the fact that it's hard on tools.

That is some guitar porn, right there. Do you have any more pictures?

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/316610-telecaster-rescue.html

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/316610-telecaster-rescue.html

That is, without a doubt, the most beautiful guitar I have ever seen. I'm not sure how to explain it other than that it just resonates with me.

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/316610-telecaster-rescue.html

Any new builds coming up? If not, why not! :lol:

Any new builds coming up? If not, why not! :lol:

I came for your build, not mine!
But to answer your question, I'll just say

http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z352/ElijahGardener/65582E39-6C2C-43B4-870E-91A37C46F805-1349-0000018D2044691E.jpg

Not a tele this time, though. It's an original hollow body design of my own.

I'll be looking out for it! ...and hopefully attaching the neck in a few days, couldn't find the time recently, sorry!

Attachned the neck and bridge, but I'm going to go to my local guitar shop as they have some Giovanni 4-wire humbuckers. Has anyone had any experience with these before? I may swap them out at a later date. (pictures soon!)