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Funkybot August 13th, 2012, 06:56 PM A buddy of mine and I are embarking on our first guitar build. He's into woodwork, and I'm into guitars so it seemed like a good pairing of interests. The project is a Jaguar based on a Ron Kirn template of a '63. We've got the wood planed, the outline drawn, and are about to embark on cutting out the rough shape with a jigsaw prior to routing. I'm a total newbie to any kind of woodwork and have a few questions:
1. How should we hold the template into place while routing? Double-sided tape or screws? I lean towards screws, but...
2. What's the best method of filling in the screw holes if we end up screwing the template into the body? Would grain filler work?
3. Since this is a Jaguar, I'm worried about finding the best way of doing the body contours. Is this accomplished via sanding or sawing? What kind of tools are used and how will I know when we got it right?
dsutton24 August 13th, 2012, 07:10 PM I use screws. Screw them into the body where the bridge screws are going to go, so no filling is necessary. As for the contours, you can use any method you like, I use a right angle grinder with an abrasive flap wheel to rough out the contours, then sand and scrape until I like them.
Good luck. Be warned that this can be pretty adictive.
guitarbuilder August 13th, 2012, 07:38 PM You should probably read some of the strat and tele build threads as this stuff is all covered in them.
Funkybot August 13th, 2012, 08:38 PM You should probably read some of the strat and tele build threads as this stuff is all covered in them.
I've gone through a few but it seems like different people will approach things very differently. I'm just wondering if there's any particular set of pros and cons to any one approach over another. It's also difficult to find some of the more epic build threads (maybe we need a forum sticky just for completed build threads).
Example: Ron Kirn uses screws (and he doesn't seem to fill them). Others say double-sided tape works, some people swear it doesn't. Some recommend sawdust and wood glue to fill the holes, some say the filler will do the job.
I'm really just looking for some basic advice from some more experienced builders to help and avoid mistakes where possible.
adirondak5 August 13th, 2012, 09:32 PM Did you look through the build challenge archives ? I believe for the 2012 challenge there are over 60 completed builds and the threads are all in there .
Funkybot August 13th, 2012, 10:43 PM Did you look through the build challenge archives ? I believe for the 2012 challenge there are over 60 completed builds and the threads are all in there .
Thanks for the heads up on that. I hadn't seen that sub-forum before. It's now bookmarked for future reference.
Ronkirn August 13th, 2012, 11:30 PM I use screws… I run 'em in where the pickguard will cover the holes…. if ya wanna use tape. the only double stick tape I have found that's worth a hoot is Golfworks grip tape… it really holds the templates in place,. and as a side benefit… If you wanna change the old dry-rotted cracked grips on your clubs… it'll handle that too..
rk
R. Stratenstein August 14th, 2012, 12:11 AM One of the many great things about this forum is that there are many ways presented to achieve the same results. Some of them may use the exact kinds of tools and materials you have , and seem logical, some may use expensive tools or machines you don't (yet) have, some may look just plain dumb or dangerous, and you may come up with something completely unique after seeing how others do something.
You can try something that looks good when somebody else does it, but decide it's not for you.
Anyway, I think anybody here that builds guitars will tell you for the most part there is no right or wrong way. The main constants are to be safe no matter what you do, make the best of the tools and materials available to you, and don't get discouraged when you make a mistake. Or a whole series of them. Because you will make mistakes.
PS, I like to use screws for templates. There is too much downside risk if two sided tape slips. Sawdust and glue can be hard to mix properly as a filler, especially if you're going to try and stain it. Use a commercial filler if you must, but better advice is to screw your templates down where they won't show, or in areas that will be removed later (like the neck rout area).
Good luck. I'm wanting to build a Jag. Not sure when I'll get around to it, but look forward to your build thread.
crane550 August 14th, 2012, 12:42 AM 1. How should we hold the template into place while routing? Double-sided tape or screws? I lean towards screws, but...
Screw work just fine, just put them in places that will be covered up or routed out later. For example if you do the outside profile first put the screw where the neckpocket, pickups, and control cavity would go.
2. What's the best method of filling in the screw holes if we end up screwing the template into the body? Would grain filler work?
This will be unnecessary if you do it this way. For your pickup, neck, and control templates, use clamps to hold the template down to your work piece. This might not be possible if your template is small.
3. Since this is a Jaguar, I'm worried about finding the best way of doing the body contours. Is this accomplished via sanding or sawing? What kind of tools are used and how will I know when we got it right?
Pencil the limit of your contour, and use one of these.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-half-inch-120-grit-flap-disc-67636.html
You can get them about anywhere, Home Depot should have them. GO SLOW. It takes material faster then you would think. Then use a roundover bit for the rest of your corners.
Good luck!
macaroonie August 14th, 2012, 06:44 AM Be very careful using the jig saw for cutting your basic shape. With all these curves the blade wil want to lean unless you have a blade with plenty of kerf on it. That means that the teeth have a wide set , letting the rest of the blade follow the turn without pinching.
There is a good method or two that aids this process , one being to make multiple cuts at right angles to your shape where the curves are sharp. This allows the debris to fall away as you go thereby not pinching the blade as it progresses through the curves.
Or drill holes near the line to allow the blade to square itself up . Same principle.
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