Muffled Pick Ups?

I know this will seem like an idiotic question to some but I still have to ask.
For years I played the same 53' Tele and loved it to death. Now that it would be impossible (for me) to replace, I built a twin - so to speak. I used 200 year old pine for the body and found a very nicely flamed neck. Also I used the Fender Broadcaster pick up set, their pots and so forth. I was very careful to solder all of the joints well and used good wire. What I don't understand is that when you A to B the two guitars, the old one is just much clearer. Is this one of the reasons that everybody is using different pick ups? After looking at the wiring in my old version, it is hard to believe it would sound that much better. I usually play on either the bridge or bridge and neck combined. I never play on the neck only. So is there an accurate version of the old pickups and wiring, or do you really just need to buy the old stuff if that is what you are after tone wise?

Thanks and I apologise for the simplistic question as I am not an Electrical Engineer - by any means.

Different wood, different pickups, different finish, different neck = different sound.

Everything makes a contribution to the total sound, not only electronics.

It didn't come from the same tree as the 53. Betcha the new build weighs more also.

Just my opinion.

The '53's original pickups aren't potted.

Broadcasters are anything but muffled.

How is the new guitar acoustically, unplugged?

Is the neck join good and tight?

Is the bridge plate down flush against the body, not lifted at the pickup end?

Are the saddles the right way round, there is a front and back?

Are the ferrules good and tight into the wood?

Have you adjusted the pickup heights?

You need to check and double check the wiring. It is easy to get a stray whisker of wire or blob of solder shorting something important.

It is also easy to cook a pot with the soldering iron, results can be strange.

Also double check the earth wire onto the pot can. If the solder has not flowed onto the can you get higher resistance than should (<0.4ohm). As this is the main earth point, it affects everything.

Is the output level in the same ballpark in both guitars ? If the new one shows a much lower output I would recheck the electronics and look for a cooked pot.

Follow JEFRS indications. He pretty much covered everything.

To avoid cooking pots I use solder flux. This reduces the needed heat dramaticaly.

You can just lower the pickups and they'll be a bit clearer. Different output, but my guess is they're overwound, and what you're hearing as muffled might just be the extra mids of the Broadcaster winding, though I dont know much about pickups. Take them down much lower, even flat with the bridge plate and pick guard if you have to. Unpotted pickups "ring" a bit to my ears, and that could be an important variable like Fezz says.

If you feel like putting in the money, you could try talking to one of the custom winders like Don Mare or Chris Klein. I bet they could even make a copy of what you have if you don't live to far away!

Are you going w. the original blender wiring in your new creation? Keep in mind that with the original blender wiring the bridge PU is never working all alone by itself in the selctor's bridge position. There is always a slight bleed off as the neck PU is always involved to some extend even with the blender pot all the way up to the right. This results in an audible different, more thin and trebly tone than it is the case w. a modern wiring where the bridge PU is all by itself if the bridge pos. is selected at the switch.
To put it simple; The same bridge PU will sound a tad stronger and less thin than in the old blender circuit.
Just s.th. to consider. Off course as others already mentioned; there are lot's of other variables to take into account. Most are wood and PU related IMO. You could try the same PU in both guitars and check whether or not the results second your first experience

As I always say in these cases, post some pictures of your control cavity from several angles. Someone might spot a wiring error.

Is the output level in the same ballpark in both guitars ? If the new one shows a much lower output I would recheck the electronics and look for a cooked pot.

Follow JEFRS indications. He pretty much covered everything.

To avoid cooking pots I use solder flux. This reduces the needed heat dramaticaly.

To avoid cooking the pots (it destroys the track) use a big powerful soldering iron, It can put heat in quicker and make a hot spot on the can.

15-25W for normal soldering

40-60W for pot cans

Always use flux-cored electrical solder. I recommend olde tin/lead multicore (simply because it works)