Thinline with armrest and belly cut.

First of all I would like to thank everybody at this forum because sharing knowledge, makes other people fill confidence to walk forward……

As you understand this is my first build so please be gentle .

To day is a very hot day (107.6 F) so I decide to begin this thread and sow the progress I have done with my thinline build , than going to workshop.

So that is the lumber I use for the body, mahogany and maple

The maple top was first cut trim at a local shop and with sand blocking it came to the desired thickness .

To glue them I use this method ….

Mahogany halves ...

Glued together and drilled all the way down .

Setting the belt sander

Since I wand a thinline I make a template from 0.2” thick Plexiglas to make the down cavity ,I begun to route the cavity and I discover I had a problem with my router’s choke ,the router was spitting the cutting tools no matter how tight the chock was tighten .
:mad::mad::mad:

The armrest

Is it just me or is there a hole in the forearm cut?

Is it just me or is there a hole in the forearm cut?

i'm seeing it too.. :?:

i'm seeing it too.. :?:
Hole ?were ?:shock::shock:
Yes there is a hole ,
Weight is an issue so I am going to remove as much wood as possible.:smile:

The belly cut was made with a flat and a half round rasp after that the mahogany smoothed with sand papers,80,120,220 and finally 320 grit sandpaper was used.

Continue producing mahogany sawdust….

Just finished it up about a month ago...it has a custom randy walker hot wound P-90 that just flat out rips. Your guitar is going to turn out great. I am intrigued by the thought of a thinline with some relief cuts in it.

Just finished it up about a month ago...it has a custom randy walker hot wound P-90 that just flat out rips. Your guitar is going to turn out great. I am intrigued by the thought of a thinline with some relief cuts in it.

Wow that’s a really nice Tele you got ,I also like your custom LP ….
Welocme to TDPRI.
Thanks for posting:wink::wink::wink:

To make the inner contour of the belly cut I use 3M abrasive kit .

Here is a photo of the chambered body before the maple top was glued on.

Looks great!

Looks great!
Thanks Bentley
More pics are coming.....

Oops I forgot to post that photo, maple top before glued together.

Here is me trying to get some food, I am starving !!!!!!!!!!stay Hungry (I didn’t eat my son) …..

I like the inner tapering you did to achieve the relief cut....that's awesome man. Yeah that LP was the first guitar i did....turned out pretty good. The red thinline and that new p-90 tele seem to get most of my attention though :-) That maple top is going to look sweet!

I like the inner tapering you did to achieve the relief cut....that's awesome man. Yeah that LP was the first guitar i did....turned out pretty good. The red thinline and that new p-90 tele seem to get most of my attention though :-) That maple top is going to look sweet!
Thanks for posting :smile:

[QUOTE=gtrbuilder916;4365016]I like the inner tapering you did to achieve the relief cut....that's awesome man. Yeah that LP was the first guitar i did....turned out pretty good. The red thinline and that new p-90 tele seem to get most of my attention though :-) That maple top is going to look sweet!

Maybe you can upload some sound clips ,this would be perfect.

Yeah for sure man...I will see if it is okay to put something up from our new album...it is not out yet so worse case scenario i can post something in a month or so.

Does the American model come with a cup holder too?

The maple was glued on mahogany and let dry for 24hours then cut the shape.
The maple on the armrest area was soaked with hot water, a towel was put on and under the maple for about 20 minutes, then I set a block of wood steady at the point armrest area is begins and another block on the maple above the armrest ,a hot air gun did the rest….I use the gun to heat the area between the two blocks while I slowly tighten the clamps that was holding the second block of wood.
Let for a night... next day I remove the clamps .

Cut the f hole beginning drilling with a dremel and finishing with files and sandpapers.

Does the American model come with a cup holder too?

that would be perfect ...:smile::smile:

Here is a cheapo’tool I make for vertical sanding it cost about 2.50 $.The heat-shrink tube is there to prevent washers for spinning , a long screw two self-locking nuts , some washers and double stick tape will do all the dirty job .

The last couple of days I was meshing around with colors I wanded to see how the finish guitar will look like and then today happen this:twisted:
the two halfs of the maple was detached :oops:
Any thougths why this happened?????Any help??

If you used water soluble glue (regular Titebond or similar) and a water based stain, the water in the stain may have 'melted' the glue. Unfortunately, I suspect the stain has soaked into the end grain of your top boards. This will make the joint pretty visible after you reglue it unless you can remove the top and clean up the edges.

If you used water soluble glue (regular Titebond or similar) and a water based stain, the water in the stain may have 'melted' the glue. Unfortunately, I suspect the stain has soaked into the end grain of your top boards. This will make the joint pretty visible after you reglue it unless you can remove the top and clean up the edges.


Thanks nosmo
I am thinking of routing a channel in the center line and fill the gap with a mahogany stripe ,I've seen some guitar in the past with a stripe in the CL .
Just thinging :confused::confused::?:

So many views so little help .....

I receive my camera from the service today, this means better photos, but oops forgot to set the date …as you can see.
O.K. I route a channel 6.5mm wide and put a mahogany stripe in the center line .
Here are the pics .

the stripe was glued with superglue and then scraped with this tool.

Something i forgot to mwntion.
Before superglue mahogany stripe i heat the channel and the Stripe, this evaporate moisture, when glue is applied wood sucks it (the glue) in an attempt to balance humidity .

Not a bad save!

Not a bad save!

Thnx.

The joint could have opened for any number of reasons.Maybe the edges weren't jointed to
exactly 90 degrees,maybe you didn't use enough glue on the joint,maybe you clamped the parts together incorrectly-alot of maybes! You did a very nice save on the top!!! Can't wait to see it finished!!!

The joint could have opened for any number of reasons.Maybe the edges weren't jointed to
exactly 90 degrees,maybe you didn't use enough glue on the joint,maybe you clamped the parts together incorrectly-alot of maybes! You did a very nice save on the top!!! Can't wait to see it finished!!!

Thanks oldteleguy For the nice words...
I did some research at the internet and found this:

WOOD MOVEMENT

And how to cope with it.

It’s a natural fact that wood moves. You can nail it, glue it and reinforce it but you will never stop the wood in your projects from shrinking and swelling with seasonal changes in humidity. So the secret to dealing with wood movement is to work with it, not against it.

More than one woodworker has forgotten how much wood moves when a gaping hole or crack appears in the table that he spent weeks building. Or when a drawer will not open because its front has swelled tight inside the frame. Wood movement can also cause joints to open. Doors that used to swing freely, bind if they don’t have the room to expand.

These things happen because wood was once living with cells that held water vital to its growth. Long after the tree is cut down and the wood is dried, those cells continue to exchange moisture. Under humid conditions during the summer, these cells absorb moisture, swell and cause the piece to expand. As winter approaches and it becomes dry, the wood cells release moisture, shrink and cause the wood to contract in size.

Most wood movement that will affect your work will occur across the width of the piece. That amount will vary depending on whether your boards are flatsawn or quartersawn. The movement along a board's length or thickness is negligible in material that is less than 1 ½ thick.

The following are suggestions on how you can control wood movement in your workshop.

It is important to control the temperature and the humidity in your workshop so that they are close to the environment that the piece will be located in. Basement and garage shops in the east, south and mid America typically require humidity control in the summer and heating n the wintertime.

If possible take delivery of your material at least a week before you start working with it. This gives it time to acclimate to your shop environment.

If it is summer time and the humidity is, high you can assume that the piece is not going to swell much more. In a high humidity condition, you can size the drawers so that they are only about 1/16" smaller than they’re opening. If it is wintertime and it is dry you should move this dimension to 3/16" across the width of the drawer. Because the drawer front will not move along its length, the dimension of 1/16" will be just fine.

If the material is warped, true it up by face or edge joining before you machine. Do not attempt to force the board into flatness with clamps, as the warpage will invariably show up in your finished project.

If the board is twisted or cupped you may lose the majority of the thickness by the time you join one face to flatten it. To reduce this loss try to cut the board into short sections which will reduce the waste. Severely bowed boards require more drastic steps. Cut the board into shorter lengths before joining the edges

Solid wood tabletops can grow as much as a ½" across their width. Attaching a top to the aprons so that it cannot move is asking for a disaster. It's likely the table top will split along the grain or a glue line, or it may bow upwards in the center. Attach the top with shop made wooden clips or steel table clips which we use all the time. The clips hold the top down, and they also move with the wood and slide in the grooves that you saw in the inside face of the table aprons.

When you are involved with carcass work such as a chest of drawers that has web frames attached to solid sides, the web frames cannot restrict the sides from moving. In this situation you can join the frames to the sides with sliding dovetail joints. Stop the dovetail groove about ½" from the front of the sides. To assemble the joint, apply glue to the front 3" or so of the dovetail groove only and this will allow the case to expand and contract as the seasons go by without cracking or splitting.

When building a project like our Roll Top Desk or Computer Center you are dealing with a series of panels that fit inside frames. You need to allow room for the solid wood panels to expand widthwise. Panels won’t expand lengthwise, so fit them tight in that direction. In most instances we apply a little glue at the top and the bottom of the panel usually in the center. This keeps the panel from rattling in the frame.

As the season changes, so will the dimensions of your wood. It’s a rare project that doesn’t require some attention for wood movement. We hope that these suggestions will assist you with your projects.

Brian Murphy
American Furniture Design Co

Good job there! I've made a Thinline with a belly cut but not with the forearm contour. You've pushed the envelope. Yours is the first I've seen with both contours.

So this is your first build? That's really jumping in with both feet.

Thank you Mr Wells for your kind words.

The Thinline with the belly cut you have build was my inspiration for this guitar build.

I believe there are five tutors in this site and that really you are one of them!!!

Yes this is my first build and I hope everybody enjoy this build as much as I do.

Thank you.
:grin::grin::grin:

This really looks great. It will become a cool guitar!

The save was very nice, and I would say the only right thing to do. If the pictures of the building process had not been on the internet you could easily get away with claming this was the design intended. In the business of woodwork one can now and then find “design”, that is actually covering up that something went wrong. I know that one other tele-type guitar that you have seen here lately has this kind of “design”. :wink:

About the thing that went wrong. As some has written, there are many possible reasons for this, and I would think that it is a combination of a few. I think that the bending over the armrest was what started it. There are some types of wood that are suitable for bending and some are not. Ash, Oak, walnut are some of the best, birch, and elm is ok, but maple is a very poor candidate for steam bending. If I understand this, right the top is a 6.35mm thick piece of maple, and I don’t think this 25/30 (?) degree bend would bee stress free.
As the bend comes quite close to the endwood of the maple top right by the joint of the two pieces, this would be a place that should not be exposed to water.

Anyway, you have solved the problem, and it is going to be a very nice guitar!

Hi Reinhard
The difference between the tele you are talking about and my tele is that you indented to make a telecaster like this ,for me it was a solution .

That demonstrates you as a skillful carpenter ,(not the same for me ),
with your permission I will like to post here the link with this awesome telecaster we are talking about .

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/345671-my-first-self-made.html

Thank you and once again, welcome to TDPRI .

:cool::cool::cool:

pickup jigs and cavities...

sorry by mistake didn't upload all together !

I am surprised that until now nobody has mentioned that the guitar hasn’t got any control cavities ….

Well you did just start routing the pickups.

Looks great so far! Excited to see progress. Good luck and have fun with it!

Looks great so far! Excited to see progress. Good luck and have fun with it!

Thanks :grin:

Well you did just start routing the pickups.

I mean that except pickups cavities and neck pocket there will not be any other rear or top access cavity …..

Any comment ?

Do not have any time to do any progress on my build, today I shot that picture …:roll::roll:

This is an awesome build! And, great save on the wood movement thing! Like someone had said, you could have played it off as intentional had you not posted that it was a mistake. Very impressive first build!

This is an awesome build! And, great save on the wood movement thing! Like someone had said, you could have played it off as intentional had you not posted that it was a mistake. Very impressive first build!
Thank you very much!
It is a matter of self respect I could not have done that...
In addition, I believe in this forum we all want to share information and to learn from others… and from their mistakes ...is it right?:wink:

O.K. mates I need help, I want that finish for my guitar,
Any help is welcome,
Thanks in advance.

No much luck with the painting,
No help arrive yet,
Therefore, I decide to go on with the making of a stainless steel bridge.
The idea taken from Mr. adirondak5 snakehead build:

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/306340-sssssssnakehead-5.html

A rectangle stainless steel tube cut diagonal, the edges smoothened with a diamond file and the final sheet is close to the Gotoh Modern bridge for telecaster, dimensions found in Stewart-MacDonald’s Catalog.

First, I drill the mount screw locations for the bridge and then the three mount screw locations for the pickup mounting.
The exact position for the holes and the pup cut out was taken from my partcaster’s bridge, duplicated the dimension by putting one bridge on the other and mark the exact position with a steel marking tool like one shown in the picture.
Next drill the pickup cut out.

The bridge is off to a good start , can't wait to see it done , how is that stainless to work ?
That burst photo you show looks like tobacco brown over cherry red on the outer edge faded to just tobacco towards the center , two ways you could do that , either tinting lacquer and spraying it on or mixing the tints in solution and wiping them on .

The bridge is off to a good start , can't wait to see it done , how is that stainless to work ?
That burst photo you show looks like tobacco brown over cherry red on the outer edge faded to just tobacco towards the center , two ways you could do that , either tinting lacquer and spraying it on or mixing the tints in solution and wiping them on .

Thanks I will try that over some maple leftovers I have.
About stainless steel, this piece I use is 2.3mm thick, this make difficult to cut and drill it.
Hard still can not be drilled with out a drill press, high quality drilling bits and fine tooth blades is needed to machine it .
Oil must be used all time as lubricant- coolant,(you can see WD40 in one of the pictures) .
Its better to use diamond files because they make the job easier.
The only reason I use that piece of tube cut this way,was that I wanted to avoid bending.

That's really impressive!! You do have some skills. Enjoy!

Your son's look on the first photo is amazing! :-D

That's really impressive!! You do have some skills. Enjoy! ..... :-D

Thank's this really means a lot to me...:smile:

I made some progress with the bridge today, cut and file the pickup hole.

I made some progress with the bridge today, cut and file the pickup hole.

Very nice :)

Then using the polishing kit of 3M shown at post 16 I remove most of the scratches using 60-80-120 grit wheels and 240 sanding paper attached with double stick tape on one of those wheels …
I forgot to take a picture after the 240 sanding paper buffing:roll:

Finally, I use this polishing wheel and this blue fast cut polishing compound and the result put a smile on my face.

one more pic...

Very nice :)

Thanks Mr Herb you are very kind.

That bridge plate came out BEAUTIFUL!

gunna have to try my hand at that...

From a brass rod I cut some pieces to make the saddles, six and one spare that is why they are seven in the picture. Then I make a jig to drill the intonation and height adjustment holes in the saddles.

Threads was made with a hand tap tool and some oil .

I know I am a slow builder.I hope to finish this project before my son be eighteen.:lol:

I know I am a slow builder.I hope to finish this project before my son be eighteen.:lol:

Ha , no problem Nick , I started my current build last September , still not done , you'll get there , very nice metal work with the bridge and saddles :smile:

HaHa, yes I know Herb is you against Kwerk...:lol:

Couple of days ago the mail carrier brought this little monster at my door …a quick measurement show that everything is o.k.

Today I put the Little59 in the bridge plate and then on the telecaster, but… I did not like what I show, the bridge is to long for my taste. Dimensions of the bridge I made much Gotoh modern bridge, that mean that this bridge is 1.5cm longer than the traditional Tele bridge. It is too long for my taste, so I decide to make another bridge this time the traditional one

Looking good, Nick. Old news, but I'm thinking that when you pushed the maple cap down on to the armrest relief, the glue joint was strained beyond its capacity, and split. No matter, nice save, I like the mahogany stripe.

I've been listening to a book on CD as I drive around for my job, that refers to the 300 at Thermopylae. Man, you guys are TOUGH! Heroes for sure!

Anyway, there are a couple of videos that LMI has put up that I think will be useful to you in getting the finish you want.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ru5jkNG7_zU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_JrN9_VTR8&feature=player_embedded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=92YWLyqwjYI

Also, if you're not experienced with a spray gun, this video is a nice compact primer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VFO1pX1xcg&feature=player_embedded

Gates Of Fire, Steven Pressfield, is this my friend the book you are referring?

The word Heroes is coming from the Hellenic word Ήρωας, at the ancient year’s people was calling Heroes those who were fighting like Gods.

Tomorrow after the job, I will do my homework.
You see I have to sleep now the time here is 02.10am and at about four hours, I will go to work.

Thank you very much for your kind words.

Gates Of Fire, Steven Pressfield, is this my friend the book you are referring?

The word Heroes is coming from the Hellenic word Ήρωας, at the ancient year’s people was calling Heroes those who were fighting like Gods.

Tomorrow after the job, I will do my homework.
You see I have to sleep now the time here is 02.10am and at about four hours, I will go to work.

Thank you very much for your kind words.

That's the first book I read about the battle, and it is impressive.

Always heard about the Spartans, that their own mothers saw them off to battle, "come home carrying your shield (in victory), or (dead) carried on it".
The one I'm "reading" (listening to on CD) is called "The Gift of Freedom: Seven Events That Saved The World".

The authors of the book assert that even though the Greeks eventually fell at that battle, if the Greeks had not so inspiringly defended the pass at Thermopylae, the Greek city states would have not have united to fight off the Persians, and there would have been no Greece as we know it, with all the classical art, science, government, architecture and other gifts to the Western World. I wish I had paid better attention to my schooling in my younger days, but I, like most of my peers, was a youthful idiot, with no interest in these things, that explain how and why things are as they are now.

Thank you very much for the videos I find them very educational, as most of Mr. O’Brien’s videos. I will try his technique at some maple leftover.:wink:

For the second bridge I make a different approach, first cut two 18mm holes with a HSS hole sow tool, normally those wholes are 20mm, I prefer to cut them narrow and then proceed with a file tool. After that, I drill the holes for the mounting screws and the string holes...

To day, I make a big decision about my second build, if the first one ever end.
I want to share it with you my friends and please feel free to vote if you find it interesting or what.
This thread has a strange odour...

After two very busy weeks, I made some progress with my project.
For the neck pick up a mahogany, mounting ring made.
The binding channel cut.
The body paint was end up with burgundy brown on maple then lightly sanded back to add contrasting figure and then put on vintage amber with tobacco brown to 1:1 mix.
I want to thanks Mr. Colt W. Knight for his painting advice and his response to my P.M.

I can’t decide two knobs or four?

I'd go for 2 but then I'd also put the 3 way down near the volume/tone pots.

I'd go for 2 but then I'd also put the 3 way down near the volume/tone pots.

Thanks for the reply.
I count one for two knobs.

It's nice to have separate tone/volume knobs but I would still just go with two knobs if it were mine , but it's yours , it'll look good either way

It's nice to have separate tone/volume knobs but I would still just go with two knobs if it were mine , but it's yours , it'll look good either way

Thanks Herb, every opinion is much appreciated .
Also I forgot to mention that the hole for the three way switch is already made…
1+1 =2

+1 for 2. :grin:

+1 for 2. :grin:
:wink:

Threads was made with a hand tap tool and some oil .

Hi Nick!

This is so cool.......nice idea!.....

Franco

Couple of days ago the mail carrier brought this little monster at my door …a quick measurement show that everything is o.k.

Excellent purchase...will never regret...i have it too...and i went for a split pot.....you are going to enjoy that!

To day, I make a big decision about my second build, if the first one ever end.
I want to share it with you my friends and please feel free to vote if you find it interesting or what.
This thread has a strange odour...

....we might be allowed to say that this guitar...kicks basses....?

I can’t decide two knobs or four?

About one of these pots that can do volume and tone....concentric i think to recall......?

Franco,
Thank you for your comments!
And for the pickup split and concentric pod idea!:wink:

A couple of years ago I spend a week at Torino and I really love it.
Italy is a nice country to live.:smile:

Last night I was watching the photos I have upload and I realize that the guitar is looking colorless to pale.
Between some pizza and two beers I decide to add a third color over the previous two…
Another thing I realize as a strictly amateur person at guitar building, is how motive can a post from others with an advice, or a good word can be.
Sometimes even the number of views is a strong motive to go on.

Those are things much appreciated, appreciated more than words can say.

Here is a picture I took this morning out in the sunshine…

Wow. That's beautiful!

Wow. That's beautiful!

Thanks :grin:

Couple of days I receive those Cocobolo fingerboards from: http://www.exotichardwoodsukltd.com/
I like the grains and the color very much and I want to say that the guys at exotic hard woods are very polite and very professional at what they are doing, αλσο I believe that their prices are very logical, Thank you Mr. Kirk Bulton.


The other lumber is white Korina, I had some wariness about using it for constructing my guitar’s neck, but thanks to Mr. Rich Rice and Mr. Fred Garvin I get over it.

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/355683-korina-limba-guitar-neck.html

It is time for a neck template.

Just came across your thread! Subscribed! Excellent work from a fellow country man from the land of true heroes. It really takes a lot of guts to fight for your every day living in modern Hellas of the economical crisis and have your hopes diminished every single day.Guitar building and tdpri lurking saves the day!

Welcome aboard Sultan,hope you enjoy it as much as I do.:mrgreen:

Very nice work. do you have leftover scrap from the top material? if so, do exactly the same thing to it that you did with the body in terms of finish sanding and staining, so you've got a reliable test panel before you start with the rest of the finish.

I would recommend that you try sanding back some of the stain. I know it sounds like going backwards, but with figured woods you should keep in mind that some of the stain soaks in deeper in some places more than others as the grain swirls around. If you sand back a little (with say 220 P grit paper) you remove the areas that the stain didn't penetrate much, revealing bright, unstained wood. Meanwhile the areas where the stain soaked in will stay dark. This makes the curly figure "pop."

Then come back with a second color of stain, maybe more yellow or more red depending on what you're after. Then seal it and leave well enough alone. You can do the burst entirely with toner or shader coats where you mix a little dye into the topcoat in an airbrush or detail spray gun, and gradually build up the color on the edges. Then cover everything with clear. It's not rocket science, but boy, it's awfully helpful to have a few pieces of scrap to test the colors on.

I would say that the sample finish you posted is only one color, kind of a caramel, that's applied more heavily at the edges and faded out in a regular sunburst. It has been done by wiping (you sort of wash it with alcohol or water after putting on the stain, to remove some and try to get it to smear out at the edges), but it's much much easier to control if you're spraying.

Hard to tell from your photo, but if you want more amber, then add some red (and if that's too orange, then cut back with a little green which counters the red and makes it brown, back where we started...)

that is a good trick, I like it:
Hard to tell from your photo, but if you want more amber, then add some red (and if that's too orange, then cut back with a little green which counters the red and makes it brown, back where we started...)


Thanks Vizcaster for your help..:wink:
You have a sharp eye, the colors are water based , applied by wiping more heavily at the edges.
The first colors was burgundy brown applied on the body and let dry for 24hrs, then was sanded back with grit paper and amber was applied again by wiping .
The third color was applied couple of days after, is a different hue of brown and was not sanded back because I wand to put the binding on and then to do the final sanding.
What I have in mind is to do more sanding in the center, to make amber reveal only between the pickups, something like an amber heart.
The problem is that the leftovers I have from the grain area, as you can see the top is half grained only-I do not know how they call this kind of maple, are so small that can not give a clear result…

By the way I like your Avatar very much!

By the way I like your Avatar very much!

Thank you, it's a Warmoth maple drop top over ash, I finished a pair of them much the way we've been discussing, only I used some water borne hybrid alkyd varnish as a topcoat so that there's an amber cast to the finish. I find this helps to bring out the shimmer and illusion in figured woods.

My first ever string thru holes.:razz:

The drill press doesn’t have enough clearance so I had to do the modification shown on the picture, not exactly a professional modification but did the job real good…:mrgreen:

Very nice Nick :)

Very nice Nick :)

Thank you very much Herb :smile:

The good part comes now.
Sneaking around the last days at other’s guitar building threats,

Herb you know whose:
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/354873-strat-wars-seduced-dark-side-2.html

I found how to use the corian scraps that I have at my workshop.:mrgreen:
Thanks you: Mr. Rutter Mr. Muzikp and Mr.Adirondak5 for the cool idea.:arrow:

Thank you very much Herb :smile:

The good part comes now.
Sneaking around the last days at other’s guitar building threats,

Herb you know whose:
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/354873-strat-wars-seduced-dark-side-2.html

I found how to use the corian scraps that I have at my workshop.:mrgreen:
Thanks you: Mr. Rutter Mr. Muzikp and Mr.Adirondak5 for the cool idea.:arrow:

Great ! That'll last a lot longer than mdf or plywood . Yep , there is no end to the tips and tricks you can pick up here , the best place on the interweb :)

Thank you, it's a Warmoth maple drop top over ash, I finished a pair of them much the way we've been discussing, only I used some water borne hybrid alkyd varnish as a topcoat so that there's an amber cast to the finish. I find this helps to bring out the shimmer and illusion in figured woods.

Wow this amber came from the varnish?:shock:How many coats?

Great ! That'll last a lot longer than mdf or plywood .:)

I do not know Herb, maybe it is arrogance because I will make only one or two necks with this jig, but anyway that corian was sitting there for a long time.

Yep , there is no end to the tips and tricks you can pick up here , the best place on the interweb :)

Yes, I believe that too :grin:

The last week I was absorbed to read building threads and “How to’’ make necks…
Here is the progress, I ruff cut the Κοrina wood to prepare it for putting it at my neck Jig and routing.
Then I attach it on the jig with double stick tape but I discover that there was a tinny move about 1mm, longitudinal when I was touching the neck concerning the jig. To avoid this movement I clamp the neck and the jig on my workbench.
White Korina is extra light wood and it can be cut easily.
The routing of the headstock made according to the diagram below. This is the safest way to cut the headstock with out tear the wood apart.

Next thing I made was a 9.5inch radius wooden sanding block. That made from a pine block of wood.

Sweet , nice job Nick :-)

Sweet , nice job Nick :-)

Thank you Herb, you are very kind.

To be sure, that the final radius of the block was 9.5, I trim it with a 9.5inches radius steel sheet, 2mm thick, that had 80grid sandpaper on.

Beautiful grain on that piece of cocobolo, and the top is gorgeous, Nick. Have you decided how you're going to finish it?

Wow this amber came from the varnish?:shock:How many coats?

Target Coatings has a product they call EM2000, and a previous formulation of it was called Hybrivar (which I used on the guitar in my avatar). It's a hybrid alkyd varnish, meaning that it's got a linseed oil "backbone" but it's made into an emulsion so it can become a waterborne product. I like it for darker finishes especially mahogany or cherry furniture, but for everything else I use EM6000 (which used to be called Ultima Spray Laquer, USL, or PSL). The EM2000cures to a discernable amber cast (and it actually takes a few weeks to develop the color after the piece has already hardened, so it's a little hard to predict from test samples). The EM6000 has a slight straw color like some solvent borne products (nitrocellulose for example). For an absolutely clear topcoat (for instance to keep blonde or natural wood at its brightest) I use 9000SC.

Beautiful grain on that piece of cocobolo, and the top is gorgeous, Nick. Have you decided how you're going to finish it?

Thanks Graig.:smile:
I think I am going to use polyurethane varnish, I have use it before at other applications and I feel more comfortable with this product.

Target Coatings has a product they call EM2000, and a previous formulation of it was called Hybrivar (which I used on the guitar in my avatar). It's a hybrid alkyd varnish, meaning that it's got a linseed oil "backbone" but it's made into an emulsion so it can become a waterborne product. I like it for darker finishes especially mahogany or cherry furniture, but for everything else I use EM6000 (which used to be called Ultima Spray Laquer, USL, or PSL). The EM2000cures to a discernable amber cast (and it actually takes a few weeks to develop the color after the piece has already hardened, so it's a little hard to predict from test samples). The EM6000 has a slight straw color like some solvent borne products (nitrocellulose for example). For an absolutely clear topcoat (for instance to keep blonde or natural wood at its brightest) I use 9000SC.

Thank you Viscaster
I make a research here at local market but I cannot find that product.
I search in the internet and found it at 50$ plus posting, I am sure it is a good varnish but it is a little bit expensive, I think I will go for polyurethane varnish.:confused:

I'm probably too late but I vote for 4 knobs. Sometimes I will roll the volume 1/2 way off the neck and tone all the way up, roll the tone 1/2 way off the bridge and volume all the way up. It essentially gives me a boost pedal just from whacking my switch (which I think you have correctly located). The mellow, quiet verse parts I'll play the neck at half volume, then WHAM! full volume from the bridge for the big parts. I've heard this is how EVH did hot for teacher, it's a good trick.

I also like having separate tone controls when I use my eBow. I'll roll the tone off the neck pup and the eBow gives me great singing violin tones. Then just whack the switch to the bridge and I'm back to cool rock n roll guitar sounds, whack back to violin and so on. Yes I'm hard on switches :mrgreen:.

Anyway 4 knobs is a versatile setup, but then again I like to play with knobs and others don't :razz:.

Great looking guitar by the way. I once made a chambered body with belly cut and arm contour, although I went about it much differently since mine had no cap on the front or back. Not an easy task, yours looks superb.

Looking real nice, Nick. Keep going!!! LOL

I'm probably too late but I vote for 4 knobs. Sometimes I will roll the volume 1/2 way off the neck and tone all the way up, roll the tone 1/2 way off the bridge and volume all the way up. It essentially gives me a boost pedal just from whacking my switch (which I think you have correctly located). The mellow, quiet verse parts I'll play the neck at half volume, then WHAM! full volume from the bridge for the big parts. I've heard this is how EVH did hot for teacher, it's a good trick.

I also like having separate tone controls when I use my eBow. I'll roll the tone off the neck pup and the eBow gives me great singing violin tones. Then just whack the switch to the bridge and I'm back to cool rock n roll guitar sounds, whack back to violin and so on. Yes I'm hard on switches :mrgreen:.

Anyway 4 knobs is a versatile setup, but then again I like to play with knobs and others don't :razz:.

Great looking guitar by the way. I once made a chambered body with belly cut and arm contour, although I went about it much differently since mine had no cap on the front or back. Not an easy task, yours looks superb.

Thank you James,
I would like very much to see a picture of that guitar.:smile:
Thank you very much for those measurements you took from your Baja neck for me.
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/357656-baja-neck-specs.html
About the knobs I think I will go for two Volume controls only, no tones, I will see.:mrgreen:

Looking real nice, Nick. Keep going!!! LOL

Thank you Rich, I enjoy very much this build but I am nervous too! :mrgreen:

The radius sanding block works fine, although Cocobolo is very hard wood I have some good results with the fingerboard.
I begun with 80grid sandpaper continue with 120-180-240 and final with a soft pad to finish the fret board, which buy the way is very oily.
At the beginning, I try to trim it down a little bit with my circular saw and the whole workshop filled with smoke.:mrgreen:
I was so anxious to see the fredboard finished that I forgot to take a good thickness measurement before the final finish, my caliper sow thickness in the middle is 7.08mm minus the double stick tape, actual thickness is 6.98.
Tomorrow I will sand it a little more to catch the ¼ of an inch or 6.35mm. :roll:

Thank you James,
I would like very much to see a picture of that guitar.:smile:
Thank you very much for those measurements you took from your Baja neck for me.
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/357656-baja-neck-specs.html
About the knobs I think I will go for two Volume controls only, no tones, I will see.:mrgreen:

No problem on the measurements. I'll work on the carve contours tonight.

Here's my chambered, contoured body. No cap on the front or back (one of the pictures gives away how I did it).

http://i.imgur.com/2pqzS.jpg (http://imgur.com/2pqzS)

http://i.imgur.com/Ji0PR.jpg (http://imgur.com/Ji0PR)

http://i.imgur.com/PGiWx.jpg (http://imgur.com/PGiWx)

http://i.imgur.com/sxnKn.jpg (http://imgur.com/sxnKn)

No problem on the measurements. I'll work on the carve contours tonight.

Here's my chambered, contoured body. No cap on the front or back (one of the pictures gives away how I did it).

http://i.imgur.com/2pqzS.jpg (http://imgur.com/2pqzS)

http://i.imgur.com/Ji0PR.jpg (http://imgur.com/Ji0PR)

http://i.imgur.com/PGiWx.jpg (http://imgur.com/PGiWx)

http://i.imgur.com/sxnKn.jpg (http://imgur.com/sxnKn)

WOW:shock: she is real nice,what wood is that?what is the finish?

That's cherry with no finish yet. I sent it along without finish, I think it got tru-oiled which is why it couldn't have a cap, with a translucent finish you would see the glue line of the cap in the contours.

Sorry for the slow build thread I have open here…
Progress report:
I glued the binding with super glue and then trim the excess with a scraper that I made from a razor. The binding that I bought is 1.5mmX 6mm, knowingly, I made the binding channel a little bit shallow because I though is better to trim a binding than the whole guitar.:mrgreen:

After that, I decide that would be nice to put a binding at the f hole too.

Here things was more complicated for me.

The binding that I have is thick for the f hole so I had to attenuate it. To do so I made a channel on a medium density fiberboard 1mm shallow 6mm wide, put the binding in and scrap the excess with my razor scraper.
Then I super glue the binding at the F hole mould it with hot air, no hot air gun was used, the hot air from a hair drier is good enough to do the job.
Here are some pics.

Very nice work Nick , the f - hole binding looks great :-)

Thank you Herb.
Wishes for good Holidays.:smile:

In a glass I put some plastic leftovers from the bidding and add acetone, I will leave it all night covered with a plastic film. This will make the plastic bidding to melt and give me material to use for making the bidding join invisible.:wink:

My bidding gum is ready.
I apply some on the F-hole bidding, let it dry for few hours and sand it with 150-220 and finally 300 grid sandpaper.

Here are the pics from the trimming of the binding.

Last Sunday 2502nd Marathon took place at Athens, it was a good day and I believe everyone enjoy it.
Here are some pics from the web.

Great job on the F hole binding! Great ingenuity on getting down to proper thickness too.

Some words about Marathon and Pheidippides as writen at wikipedia:
The marathon is a long-distance running event with an official distance of 42.195 kilometres (26 miles and 385 yards),[1] that is usually run as a road race. The event was instituted in commemoration of the fabled run of the Greek soldier Pheidippides, a messenger from the Battle of Marathon, to Athens.

The marathon was one of the original modern Olympic events in 1896, though the distance did not become standardized until 1921. More than 500 marathons are held throughout the world each year, with the vast majority of competitors being recreational athletes. Smaller marathons, such as the Stanley Marathon, can have just dozens of participants,[2] while larger marathons can have tens of thousands of participants.[3]
Contents
The first recorded account showing a courier running from Marathon to Athens to announce victory is from within Lucian's prose on the first use of the word Joy as a greeting in A Slip of the tongue in Greeting.[2]

... Philippides, the one who acted as courier, is said to have used it first in our sense when he brought the news of victory from Marathon and addressed the magistrates in session when they were anxious how the battle had ended ; "Joy to you, we've won" he said, and there and then he died, breathing his last breath with the words "Joy to you". – Lucian translated by K.Kilburn.[3]

... The modern use of the word dates back to Philippides the dispatch-runner. Bringing the news of Marathon, he found the archons seated, in suspense regarding the issue of the battle. 'Joy, we win!' he said, and died upon his message, breathing his last in the word Joy ... – Lucian Pro lapsu inter salutandum (translated by F.G. and H.W. Fowler, 1905)[4]

The traditional story relates that Pheidippides (530 BC–490 BC), an Athenian herald or hemerodrome[2] (translated as "day-runner" (Kyle 2007),[5] courier (Larcher 1806),[6][7] "professional-running courier" (Sears 2003)[2] or "day-long runner" (Miller 2006)[8]), was sent to Sparta to request help when the Persians landed at Marathon, Greece. He ran 240 km (150 mi) in two days. He then ran the 40 km (25 mi) from the battlefield near Marathon to Athens to announce the Greek victory over Persia in the Battle of Marathon (490 BC) with the word νικωμεν’ (nikomen[9]–"We have won"), as stated by Lucian "chairete, nikomen" ("hail, we are the winners")[10] to then collapse and die.

Most accounts incorrectly attribute this story to the historian Herodotus, who wrote the history of the Persian Wars in his Histories (composed about 440 BC). However, Magill and Moose (2003) suggest that the story is likely a "romantic invention." They point out that Lucian is the only classical source to which all the elements existed of the story known in modern culture as the "Marathon story of Phillipedes": a messenger running from the fields of Marathon to announce victory, then dying on completion of his mission.[11]

Robert Browning gave a version of the traditional story in his 1879 poem Pheidippides.

Great job on the F hole binding! Great ingenuity on getting down to proper thickness too.

Thanks Roger, I think a lot that is why it takes me so long to finish this guitar...:lol:

I sand the Korina neck wood by hand, results are good, heel is only 0.11mm (0.0043¨) thinner than headstock.
I manage to make the neck little bit thinner than normal at heel, 18.78mm instead of 19.05mm, when varnish will be add I believe thickness will be fine.

Here is a Jig I make from a Corian scrap.
Thanks to Muzikp I have the measurments to make a Telecaster Baja neck.

As I do not know if the neck will be fine after curving, I decide to build it in reverse order, I do not want to have my cocobolo fingerboard glued on a neck that is not correctly shaped.
So after a detailed reading of :

1. http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/79699-building-one-piece-neck.html
2. http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/317748-neck-carving-drawing-creating-facets-wood-2.html
3. http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/314349-building-two-piece-neck-limited-resources.html
This all considered as tutorials IMO.

I begin the neck shaping .It took me about four hours of planning, filing and sanding but the result was beyond my expectations

I nail two nails at the neck, at the side where the fingerboard is going to rest, one at the heel and another one close the nut. Their heads where cut and then press the fingerboard on the nails until I have two clear marks.
Then I drill a small whole at either mark, replace the nails with toothpicks and here are my invisible locating pins.:grin:

Something I want to share...
It Might Get Loud - (Full) Amazing Documentary With Page, Edge and White

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2y9KEtiQ8CM

Yeah, really nice save! And I'm liking this build quite a bit. I never would have thought of doing what you're doing to a thinline. Excellent!

Thank you Sir, comments like this inspires me confidence to go on, I really appreciate it.

Since my truss rod and fret wire has not arrive yet I decide to make an adjustable leather guitar strap for my thinline.
I cut two strips, one thick and one narrow, at the thick strip I cut eleven rectangle wholes, with a punch tool I make from a small hacksaw blade.

After I finish the strap I paint the Japanese flag and with white color I write at Japanese the date 03/11/2011.

That was the date Japan was heat buy a devastating earthquake following from the lethal tsunami, which cost the life to so many people.

I want to say thanks to member Jupiter for helping me to translate the date to Japanese numerals.

Your build looks really good!!! I like the strap!

I'll be following your thread!

Your build looks really good!!! I like the strap!

I'll be following your thread!

:grin:
Thank you very much.
Good luck with your build,I am already sudscribed.

That's a very thoughtful gesture on the neck strap, Nick. The guitar is coming along great, also--you've done masterful work on the binding for the F-holes. Keep up the good work, and please keep us posted.

Rick

Hi Rick,
It is nice to talk to you again.
Thank you very much for your comments.
I am waiting my truss rods to come,:twisted: not much to do... right now I do some finishing work on the body.

New stain for the year to come…
Happy New Year everyone.
Four hours to go for Greece.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tsPWSOfpo-k/UPHnDwvqEqI/AAAAAAAAACE/0vufMhm7TBw/s800/IMAG0561.jpg


Update.
New neck build begun.
Sapele with Cocobolo fingerboard.
Just took the photo.
I’ll write script tomorrow,see it is a little bit late here.
God bless everyone, Happy New Year.

That is going to be one nice looking neck!
Happy New Year.

Happy New Year Nick . Lets see more of that neck ;-)

That is going to be one nice looking neck!
Happy New Year.

Thank you Sir, I believe so:grin:
Happy New Year.

Happy New Year Nick . Lets see more of that neck ;-)

I hope to make a Telecaster neck and not a firewood.:mrgreen:
Happy New Year Herb.

I cut the neck shape with my router and my corian jig, then I made the truss rod channel and fit inside a double action truss rod, sorry no pics, then glue the fingerboard.
Drill the machine heads holes, first on the corian jig, then I use the jig to drill the holes on the headstock
After that I cut thin the headstock with this complicate jig I made:mrgreen:


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1Q4Wz-MkZU8/UPRGXLoItJI/AAAAAAAAACc/Kn6xp5DDCp0/s800/IMAG0530.jpg

And it was then… I notice that the third tuner hole was oval???
I make a duel

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-uL2-6DkGKg8/UPRGp2E7tbI/AAAAAAAAACk/PP36GBnD2P8/s800/IMAG0534.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--FYBneKE-U8/UPROtaLd3iI/AAAAAAAAAEA/8kHx9kATkyc/s800/IMAG0538.jpg

After that I fitted the duel in the tuner hole and drill again the hole.

I always wanted a Ross, but never had the chance to get one…
I made that substitute of this useful machine, just to do my job.
I wrap a socket tool with sandpaper disassemble this… and make this... I set the fence and trim the headstock.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xu7hMqhp14Y/UPRLDtz7nOI/AAAAAAAAADM/AE_5hhW17IM/s800/IMAG0539.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3tMFgJOrpf0/UPRLDJtdkZI/AAAAAAAAADI/_pAC0A32hNY/s800/IMAG0540.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-VUacmZ1N1SM/UPRLCgWVWVI/AAAAAAAAADE/FdVKkUZRAvQ/s800/IMAG0544.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-KbJbfxBuDes/UPRKiqhvxTI/AAAAAAAAAC8/bQq1kgl7ujg/s800/IMAG0545.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k_fSskF-Voo/UPRKOmi2JbI/AAAAAAAAAC0/NhdMOlHxjpU/s800/IMAG0548.jpg

I make this fret slotting miter box today, and make my first fret slots cut.
The Plexiglas has a mark line longitudinal in the center.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9uezfbwlU0I/UPcbKEbcpKI/AAAAAAAAAFg/8l7SSq5pz5A/s800/IMAG0570.jpg


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6ntAJQbtCA4/UPcbKFrPiDI/AAAAAAAAAFk/_QNuFRNyGtY/s800/IMAG0571.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-p-LcQRX2y_o/UPcVajw5BoI/AAAAAAAAAE0/pDwPphJyWvg/s800/IMAG0575.jpg

Nice! I find it interesting to see all these different methods to achieve the same result. I know I've done frets several different ways over time, and somehow they always work. ;)

Nice! I find it interesting to see all these different methods to achieve the same result. I know I've done frets several different ways over time, and somehow they always work. ;)

Thanks Rich, guitar building is a very innovating sport :mrgreen:

Today was a carving neck day.
I follow the steps at Guitarbuilder’s thread: “neck carving drawing creating facets wood ’’
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/317748-neck-carving-drawing-creating-facets-wood.html

and here the results:

first step:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YnLmoKm9h2A/UPrtCnzZ8QI/AAAAAAAAAGk/sfmP6g-RFQ4/s800/IMAG0582.jpg

And after three minutes..

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1k2BYSSDE7A/UPrtNQCGK6I/AAAAAAAAAGw/mtEOeGMTHTo/s800/IMAG0584.jpg

I am kidding.

It took me whole noon to shape the neck but I am very pleased with the result.
I use a couple rasps, a plane and sandpapers of different grids( 100-180 -220) and finally I save the neck with a razor ,I can not remember from where I took the idea, razor act like a scraper.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9kTYMhMK5gE/UPrtOQlC3wI/AAAAAAAAAG4/Zm7a_x-39LA/s800/IMAG0585.jpg

Beautiful job Nick , that neck is to die for :wink:

Beautiful job Nick , that neck is to die for :wink:

No Herb.
The necks that you build for your strats are to die for:lol:
Thank you very much, you are very much for your kind words.

Beautiful work, Nick. I like the belly cut and armrest. I have a little bit of middle age spread (or is that old age spread at 63!) and I like the belly cut feature in my strats. Fascinating thread plus the asides are very interesting.

Beautiful work, Nick. I like the belly cut and armrest. I have a little bit of middle age spread (or is that old age spread at 63!) and I like the belly cut feature in my strats. Fascinating thread plus the asides are very interesting.

:lol:Thank you very much Sir.
It is the "heritage of the age" as my mother use to say.
I try to do my best.

I add the dots today.

Nothing exciting for you guys, you have seen that many times, so...
I did not want to put some plastic dots so I prefer to cut my own from a scrap piece of maple .
To do that I had to make a tube cut tool, you see I do not have a hobby shop around to buy one.

Here we go again...:arrow:


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QSGdpMWHYVY/UP_hlBN6-xI/AAAAAAAAAIU/hDI_S2F3USE/s800/IMAG0590.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zakWb7F8P9M/UP_hkjiHFSI/AAAAAAAAAIU/vyaVoRji1bQ/s800/IMAG0591.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nFEHEpFvHNU/UP_h25irMCI/AAAAAAAAAIU/zBvlyWHFiiw/s800/IMAG0594.jpg

Pass the test.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yaE1Di8Gi48/UP_h6awG3SI/AAAAAAAAAIU/5B70SEJT6cA/s800/IMAG0592.jpg


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-kYNEENh5VCk/UP_h-3mWNqI/AAAAAAAAAIU/eKx6liidI-o/s800/IMAG0606.jpg

Beautiful fretboard!

Beautiful fretboard!

Thanks Jupiter.
I like it too:wink:

Great bit of ingenuity with the pen :grin:.

I'm really digging that neck.

Yes, very pretty indeed. Love it! Nice work, Nick. ;)

Thank you Roger and Rich.
I hope you enjoy this build as much as I do.:grin:

Today I decide to finish the guitar with Nitrocellulose lacquer and not with polyurethane lacquer as I have said before.
Do I have to spray sealer before:?::?::?:

Anyone...?

Hey, Nick. No, sealer is not absolutely required, but often a good idea. The only time I've not used sealer was on a quilted maple top. How's the grain? Does it need filled?

Hi Nick , like Jeff said sealer is not absolutely required , but I like to use it , it builds quick and then I can level sand it and go with nitro , IMO it makes for a more level nitro application , but others have been successful by just using nitro as a sealer , also as Jeff mentioned , are you going to fill the mahogany ?

Here's one I did a while back , grain filled the mahogany with Behlens Por O Pac mahogany tinted filler , sealed with SW Vinyl Sealer , Cleared with SW LOVOC Gloss Lacquer

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/mahogany%20build/DSC_0008-4.jpg?t=1347217700

Hey, Nick. No, sealer is not absolutely required, but often a good idea. The only time I've not used sealer was on a quilted maple top. How's the grain? Does it need filled?


Thanks Jeff.
The mahogany body has medium pores, the maple is sanded and the surface is very smooth.
The only consideration is about the mahogany at the body.

Hi Nick , like Jeff said sealer is not absolutely required , but I like to use it , it builds quick and then I can level sand it and go with nitro , IMO it makes for a more level nitro application , but others have been successful by just using nitro as a sealer , also as Jeff mentioned , are you going to fill the mahogany ?

Here's one I did a while back , grain filled the mahogany with Behlens Por O Pac mahogany tinted filler , sealed with SW Vinyl Sealer , Cleared with SW LOVOC Gloss Lacquer

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/mahogany%20build/DSC_0008-4.jpg?t=1347217700



Oh my...That guitar:shock:
If I close the pores with CA glue and after that apply sealer and lacquer?
Maybe this is a silly question but I am a little bit confused:?:

Oh my...That guitar:shock:
If I close the pores with CA glue and after that apply sealer and lacquer?
Maybe this is a silly question but I am a little bit confused:?:

Nick , I have never grain filled with CA glue so I can't advise you there but I know others have done it , here is the link for Colt's thread on grain filling , it will give you an understanding of the process , if you want a glass smooth finish on that mahogany you should grain fill , once the grain is filled , sealer , once you have enough sealer sand level , then your nitro goes on , until you have enough coats on so you don't sand through when you wet sand

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/finely-finished/234759-just-another-grain-fill-thread.html

Hi Nick , like Jeff said sealer is not absolutely required , but I like to use it , it builds quick and then I can level sand it and go with nitro , IMO it makes for a more level nitro application , but others have been successful by just using nitro as a sealer , also as Jeff mentioned , are you going to fill the mahogany ?

Here's one I did a while back , grain filled the mahogany with Behlens Por O Pac mahogany tinted filler , sealed with SW Vinyl Sealer , Cleared with SW LOVOC Gloss Lacquer

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/mahogany%20build/DSC_0008-4.jpg?t=1347217700

What colour of tint was that grain fill? I love the depth of that.

Nick , I have never grain filled with CA glue so I can't advise you there but I know others have done it , here is the link for Colt's thread on grain filling , it will give you an understanding of the process , if you want a glass smooth finish on that mahogany you should grain fill , once the grain is filled , sealer , once you have enough sealer sand level , then your nitro goes on , until you have enough coats on so you don't sand through when you wet sand

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/finely-finished/234759-just-another-grain-fill-thread.html



Thank you Herb.
I have not seen that thread, Colt has published.
I have read only the other one, "how to approach a Nitro lacquer finish".
Another grate "How to guide" from Mr.Colt W Knight.

What colour of tint was that grain fill? I love the depth of that.

Bentley have a look at "Herb's 2012 Challenge build thread"post 266.
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/2012-tdpri-tele-build-challenge/317959-adirondak5s-2012-challenge-build-thread-completed-7.html

Bentley have a look at "Herb's 2012 Challenge build thread"post 266.
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/2012-tdpri-tele-build-challenge/317959-adirondak5s-2012-challenge-build-thread-completed-7.html

Actually that's a different build Nick , but its the same grain/pore filler , Behlens PorOPac Mahogany , my challenge build was walnut , the one pictured above is mahogany :-)

What colour of tint was that grain fill? I love the depth of that.

What tint is Behlens Por O PAC Mahogany tinted filler ??
Kind of like asking what color was George Washington's white horse .

"Hail Nick"! :grin:

I know not from what self-absorption I've suffered that I've missed this thread :oops:. I've just read it completely through and am quite impressed at some of the ingenious problem solving I see :wink:. I really like the necks and admit I never would have considered white limba.
I can only guess that since you have no control routs that your going to pull them through as on a arch-top. If so, I wish you patient hands, this drives me crazy when I do it :lol:
BTW, when I saw the picture of you and your son, and the look on his face, I laughed until I cried :lol:
Looking forward to the next update,


God bless :wink:

"Hail Nick"! :grin:

I know not from what self-absorption I've suffered that I've missed this thread :oops:. I've just read it completely through and am quite impressed at some of the ingenious problem solving I see :wink:. I really like the necks and admit I never would have considered white limba.

Looking forward to the next update,


God bless :wink:

Thank you Dave, for your kind words.

Do not worry Dave I have missed so many threads that I have to read twentyfour-seven for one month to read them all :mrgreen:

The limba neck came at the right time, you see limba is so soft wood that the carving of the neck was very easy.

I can only guess that since you have no control routs that your going to pull them through as on a arch-top. If so, I wish you patient hands, this drives me crazy when I do it :lol:

Yes that is true, generally I like wood to be undistracted so I choose not to make control routs.:wink:


BTW, when I saw the picture of you and your son, and the look on his face, I laughed until I cried :lol:

:lol:So am I. I do laugh every time I see this picture:lol:

Today I had time to make a jig for the neck pocket and finally route the neck pocket on my guitar's body.
The pocket came out nice, it does not live any gap between neck and body.:grin:
It is a procedure that we have see here in the forum so many times so there is no point to slide show any pictures.:sad:

This guitar is going to be absolutely beautiful - I wish I could get to feel it, great work!

This guitar is going to be absolutely beautiful - I wish I could get to feel it, great work!


Thank you Thinling, you are so Kind.
Here come the photos, photos, photos
We are all addicted to photos and there is no proof with out photos, did I mention photos? Who said photos?


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-YSxtnBDJnpU/UOxogG_0JVI/AAAAAAAAABE/J6ftvfMeETM/s800/IMAG0514.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R8WDK6Dn0U8/UQly7PxB49I/AAAAAAAAAMM/MlfkonastgI/s800/IMAG0720.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-If1ZEJ_wWLM/UQly2wGS1BI/AAAAAAAAAL8/sTECJJE2bjw/s800/IMAG0721.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k64Nr7o9_Ok/UQlzL8uJrvI/AAAAAAAAAMc/NBi6slkAuIQ/s800/IMAG0728.jpg

That is very nice Nick.

The pocket was cut with several passages, tape is there to avoid scratch the body, the jig was hold in place with clamps.


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k64Nr7o9_Ok/UQlzL8uJrvI/AAAAAAAAAMc/NBi6slkAuIQ/s800/IMAG0728.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q3NGrizEjEg/UQlzNcInvxI/AAAAAAAAAMk/htzpgO3Ik2w/s800/IMAG0729.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-vWgaMzp_Obs/UQlze86kJdI/AAAAAAAAAMw/lJPg0IHFlts/s800/IMAG0730.jpg

Somebody stop me...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5iEtbuVTwEA/UQlzegqS7rI/AAAAAAAAAMs/S9ka0xxfUe0/s800/IMAG0741.jpg

That is very nice Nick.


Thank you my friend. Thanks everyone in this forum your kind words are very motivating.
Thank you very much, once again.:grin:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-miY8CBVUWtw/UQlzfalkjnI/AAAAAAAAAM0/Cgwu5NoM-Vk/s800/IMAG0744.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oNWISdFvPh0/UQlzx9dzXwI/AAAAAAAAANQ/Xzr6mcR_-vM/s800/IMAG0747.jpg

:grin::grin:

:shock: I think I'm drooling, Nick...

Beautiful!

:shock: I think I'm drooling, Nick...

Beautiful!

Thanks mate.:wink:

Nice fit on the neck Nick , it's coming together very nicely :wink:

Nice fit on the neck Nick , it's coming together very nicely :wink:

Thanks Herb.
I try to learn from the best craftsmen at this forum.
You guys show us the way, we practice and reproduce what we see here.
That is the truth.:wink:

Last Sunday I had a walk at the paint stores here at the area.
At one of these stores I found an old glass bottle with amber color.
The salesman said that the bottle was there from the beginning of the store?
The bottle was there when he took the shop from his father and now he has a son twenty years old whose going to live at his foot when he retire. The bottle had almost no label so I do not know the brand.
Scaring story ….anyway.
I came back home and strip the guitar with 240grid sandpaper. My intention was to sand only in the middle to give the burst effect.
After that I apply wiping, some amber on the body and the result is that.
Please feel free to comment.
.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jMWF0FqSNTY/UQ0lvhzTMMI/AAAAAAAAAOs/aTFmgCB4zDc/s800/IMAG0759.jpg


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HSacLcuWHko/UQ1b_7PHXGI/AAAAAAAAAPk/0ek_hd_o2bE/s800/IMAG0766.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ohEIuQjLmSs/UQ1cR847j-I/AAAAAAAAAQA/qUC2cxs2Kv8/s800/IMAG0771.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W0aFMroSDJ4/UQ1cRKRL9_I/AAAAAAAAAP8/0Kn675L1j5I/s800/IMAG0769.jpg

Wow! That is fantastic!

That is perfect Nick!

Wow! That is fantastic!

Thanks Jeff you are so kind:grin:

That is perfect Nick!

Thanks Glen you are a kind man.
Stay strong my friend, my thought is with you.

I'm not generally a fan of highly-figured bodies - but that one's something special.

Sweet! :grin:

Just gorgeous Nick !

Nick, this look awesome!!! you have earned the bragging rights of the month!.

That has to be one of the most original, and beautiful finishes I've seen on figured wood. Nick, you're a genius!

Another thing I realize as a strictly amateur person at guitar building, is how motive can a post from others with an advice, or a good word can be.
Sometimes even the number of views is a strong motive to go on.

Those are things much appreciated, appreciated more than words can say.

Here is a picture I took this morning out in the sunshine…

Somewhere along the line I got lost, but I caught up and love it! Also, I completely know how you feel with the post. Sometimes I feel like just laying around and not doing anything, but then I feel like I have to, because so many people are watching!

I'm not generally a fan of highly-figured bodies - but that one's something special.

Thank you markbalast, I like your arsenal alot, some very lethal wepons in there:grin:


Sweet! :grin:

Thanks Dave you are so kind, do you know where I can find some good polished aluminium hardware for this project:lol:

Just gorgeous Nick !

Thanks Herb, Ilike your strats a lot man.

Nick, this look awesome!!! you have earned the bragging rights of the month!.

I am the bragman of the month:lol:

That has to be one of the most original, and beautiful finishes I've seen on figured wood. Nick, you're a genius!

Thanks Rick, but this finish came out accidentally so I am genius by accident
:confused::lol:

Somewhere along the line I got lost, but I caught up and love it! Also, I completely know how you feel with the post. Sometimes I feel like just laying around and not doing anything, but then I feel like I have to, because so many people are watching!

Thanks Bentley:wink:

....

Thanks Rick, but this finish came out accidentally so I am genius by accident
:confused::lol:

Just take the credit and run with it, would you please, or do we need to twist your arms? :lol:

Just take the credit and run with it, would you please, or do we need to twist your arms? :lol:

:lol::lol:

How can we name that finish that came out?
A friend said it is teaburst.
Another friend and member in the forum, said it is violinburst like the Ibanez AV series.
Anyone for sure?:mrgreen:

I would call it "blushing beauty".

I would call it "blushing beauty".


Fantastic. This can be a pretty nice name for guitar also :lol:
How are you my friend, do you have any news from the doctors about the surgery?

I have to wait for more news but I don't think the surgery will be possible.

I have to wait for more news but I don't think the surgery will be possible.

Our thoughts are with you Glen, please have positive thinking.

I made the neck plate from a piece of steel today.
I use a genuine Fender plate to take the measurements.
The new plate had a couple of scratches on it so I had to sand it with 200grid sandpaper then 280 and finally 400 grid before polishing.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-LfBqmRt4LHY/URYQPtJRNPI/AAAAAAAAAT0/LJLcBxhcy5Y/s800/IMAG0792.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-623Wt2Z8dbk/URYQOn14AoI/AAAAAAAAAT0/87nf-TrkQiw/s800/IMAG0793.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-elbO8FaCusw/URYQa1B6voI/AAAAAAAAAT0/FNeNVm5YbDc/s800/IMAG0815.jpg

Maybe when I find a name for the guitar I engrave it on the plate.:roll:

that finish is superb...really came to life...

Nice job on that neck plate. It sure cleaned up beautifully. Looks plated. ;)

Great job on the neck plate, Nick!

Nice job on that neck plate. It sure cleaned up beautifully. Looks plated. ;)

It does look plated, and the chamfer around the holes is perfect. I never am able to do a credible job chamfering metal work.

Just take the credit and run with it, would you please, or do we need to twist your arms? :lol:

I build beat me to exactly what I was going to say. Accidental genius is no less any other kind. You had the idea, and the guts to try it--credit is all yours!:cool:

I should probably get around to building me one of those.. I like it.

Cool looking tele!!!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-elbO8FaCusw/URYQa1B6voI/AAAAAAAAAT0/FNeNVm5YbDc/s800/IMAG0815.jpg

Nick, that finish is stunningly beautiful.

I really have to congratulate you on that neck plate, though. To hand polish something like that and get a distortion-free reflection is something I've never seen done as well as you have here. Fantastic work, my friend.

that finish is superb...really came to life...

Thanks Johny, The finish was a surprise that came from nowhere. :mrgreen:

Nice job on that neck plate. It sure cleaned up beautifully. Looks plated. ;)

Thank you Rich, indeed it looks plated but only at one side, (you do not want to see the backside).:lol:

Great job on the neck plate, Nick!


Thank you Roger, it is really very easy to be done.

It does look plated, and the chamfer around the holes is perfect. I never am able to do a credible job chamfering metal work.

Thanks Rick, if you want to achieve a chamfer like that, after you drill the hole you mill it with a ball nose endmill, that is all.

I build beat me to exactly what I was going to say. Accidental genius is no less any other kind. You had the idea, and the guts to try it--credit is all yours!:cool:
:mrgreen::mrgreen:

I should probably get around to building me one of those.. I like it.

It is easy Bentley, you should try, the only hard part is the cutting.

Cool looking tele!!!

Thank you, I like your Avatar very much,it is very funny.What is the name of that cartoon?:lol:

Nick, that finish is stunningly beautiful.

I really have to congratulate you on that neck plate, though. To hand polish something like that and get a distortion-free reflection is something I've never seen done as well as you have here. Fantastic work, my friend.


Thank you Kwerk, I find it more difficult to make an acrylic guitar and polish it than make a good polished steel part.:wink:

Men, what you are doing is awesome!! Congratulations.
I want to continue seening it.

Best wishes

Men, what you are doing is awesome!! Congratulations.
I want to continue seening it.

Best wishes

Hola Colega Sergio
Thank you for your kind words.
Right now I do not have free time at all to work at my guitar, but soon I will start the engines....Thank you again.

Thank you, I like your Avatar very much,it is very funny.What is the name of that cartoon?:lol:
Well, since you didn't get an answer, the avatar is "Muttley", of Dastardly and Muttley :wink:

Well, since you didn't get an answer, the avatar is "Muttley", of Dastardly and Muttley :wink:

Thanks Dave.:grin: It is very funny.

Thanks Dave.:grin: It is very funny.

:wink:

Hey Nick, Just found your build. It is amazing. Nice work on every part of the guitar. I love it all!

Keep it up.

Must be that Greek ingenuity and all that feta and it certainly is one beautiful instrument

Hey Nick, Just found your build. It is amazing. Nice work on every part of the guitar. I love it all!

Keep it up.

Must be that Greek ingenuity and all that feta and it certainly is one beautiful instrument

Lol,Thanks guys.
Somehow you make feel guilty I do not have time, right now to move on with my build:mrgreen:

I continue the building making the steel input jack plate
and my IKEA fret wire bender.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WJvFftYBVrE/UUB_yexonlI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/VhxMxeqph9U/s800/IMAG0829.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-gflGZoZMlJw/UUB_xIjoIII/AAAAAAAAAVQ/wFIL7ZMvH_8/s800/IMAG0831.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pJ-_idC8s3Q/UUB_xK7qlKI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/eytJFkC3Ryw/s800/IMAG0832.jpg

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6TQ_rHi2Eis/UUCACB_15GI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/nKk0gXcw4Hw/s800/IMAG0903.jpg

The bender made from wheels that I took from an IKEA toy an mdf scrap and some bolts.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XZ0Ojt93ENQ/UUCAFOcLP6I/AAAAAAAAAVQ/VI3H1dIbMTk/s800/IMAG0905.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8Cv-mDmXy_E/UUCAFONq2xI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/s3n9TpRRLY4/s800/IMAG0906.jpg

Recycle everything.:wink:

Nick,

Your build has been a great thread to follow. That's a beautiful guitar for sure. Maybe someday you'll pass it on to your son. I really enjoy your ingenuity in the way you work through the problem areas. Thanks for sharing.

Nick,

Your build has been a great thread to follow. That's a beautiful guitar for sure. Maybe someday you'll pass it on to your son. I really enjoy your ingenuity in the way you work through the problem areas. Thanks for sharing.



Thank you for your compliments.
This is my purpose to pass it to my son, and I hope to like it and to say something like,

“Thank you Dad this is the best gift I could ever have”, and not something like:

"Hey old man this is a piece of wood, what am I suppose to do with it, don't you have twenty euro to give me, so I can go for a beer with my friends? ":lol:

Me:"Ehh ahh...(stroke):mrgreen:

Next I measure the fret wire’s tang depth to be sure that the number written on the package is right, and I make this depth meter to be sure the fret board slots are deep enough so the fret wire is going to seat properly.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lAhJk6oTmtI/UUCAN_xT6GI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/gtgPip_ID30/s800/IMAG0909.jpg


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GoAl4P0v6cQ/UUCAPUvPVWI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/YLSoZdwy3-k/s800/IMAG0910.jpg

The bender made from wheels that I took from an IKEA toy an mdf scrap and some bolts.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XZ0Ojt93ENQ/UUCAFOcLP6I/AAAAAAAAAVQ/VI3H1dIbMTk/s800/IMAG0905.jpg


Recycle everything.:wink:

Sooooo what did your son say when you took the wheels of his Ikea toy? :lol:

Sooooo what did your son say when you took the wheels of his Ikea toy? :lol:

I was thinking the same thing! Nick--how about it ?? :lol:

Nick, after reading through this, you have inspired me a LOT. I am right now, planning my first build. I will be building a bass. Got the materials, but now need to settle on the design :) I was going solid body, but man your design have caused me to rethink that idea. What an awesome guitar, and brilliant craftsmanship. Keep the pics coming.