Boothill Amps Attenuator

Just thought I would share thoughts on the DIY Attenuator from Boothill Amps (Hackworth). IMO this is a MUST HAVE for the 5e3. The project is supplied with quality components, takes about 15 minutes to build, and is reasonably priced.

Most important, it works great. I get the wonderful tone of my amp "fully cranked" at very low volumes and notice no loss of treble. Also, the dynamics of the 5e3 remain intact at these lower volumes as well. VERY HAPPY.

If ordering a Boothill amp kit, just throw in a little extra scratch and add this to the project. Thanks Dave!

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/6362/attenuator.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/attenuator.jpg/)

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/3248/attenuator2.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/28/attenuator2.jpg/)

Is this any different than the various DIY "volume boxes" that many have sung the praises of (and just as many, if not more, other folk have put down).

I have no position on such things, but I do recall (from some prior research a few years back) there is not uniform appreciation.

But maybe this one is a different beast entirely?

Just put mine together last night and it sounds like a master volume effect....plenty of crunch at a tolerable volume...thumbs up from me.

How much is it !?
I need one of those !

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/vendor-forum/337930-attenuator-kit.html

I just got my delivery notice in the mail today! My Hacky Attenuator is at the post office. I need to go in an pick it up. Soon, very soon I too shall post my report, using it in my 5F2A and 5E3.

I have no position on such things, but I do recall (from some prior research a few years back) there is not uniform appreciation.

Uniform appreciation ?
Have you ever seen anything from strings to speakers with that?:lol:

does it require impedance matching?

does it require impedance matching?

Weber makes a big deal of making sure output and speaker are the same, and then has a 4/8/16 ohm selector on all of the MASS and Load Dump attenuators.

Dave hasn't specified anywhere AFAIK. Pryde's pic matches the standard 5E3's 8 ohms. I would imagine Dave makes them work for both 5E3 and 5F1.

Is this any different than the various DIY "volume boxes" that many have sung the praises of (and just as many, if not more, other folk have put down).

I have no position on such things, but I do recall (from some prior research a few years back) there is not uniform appreciation.

But maybe this one is a different beast entirely?

Hack's attenuator is not the usual volume box.

The typical FleaBay volume box is a 1 meg audio pot in an enclosure. It's exactly like the dreaded "tone sucking master volume" of urban legend. They seem to work well on DeVilles .

It's necessary to have an effects loop to use the typical FleaBay volume box.

You have a volume knob on your guitar and a volume knob on your amp. Way I figure it if you have more volume knobs than you have tubes you're gettin' a little silly. If your amp has "gain" and "volume" knobs you have a master volume. Let's say for instance you have a volume knob on your gitar or maybe two. Then a volume knob on your amp plus a gain control. Stick the Urban Legend Volume Box in your FX loop (functionally the same as using the volume knob on any of your pedals), your amp looks like a Christmas tree decorated with volume knobs. If you like knobs I suppose I could add a 1 meg pot instead of the grid leak and an interstage volume knob after each gain stage. Volume 1, Volume 2, 3,

4, 5, 6...


I'm guessin' Dave's goody uses a 15w "L" pad. That's an expensive part. Gets plugged in between your amp and your speaker like a proper attenuator should.

Would this attenuator work with an 18W clone? Thinking forward to my next project...

Also, I currently have a Blues Deluxe Reissue (in addition to my Boot Hill 5E3). I take it from this thread the Boot Hill attenuator isn't enough for the BDRI; what would need to be modified on the attenuator to handle that kind of power (40W)?

Attenuator uses a 15w L-Pad. The L-Pad unit gets warm when you use it. It is handy to use on a Champ or a 5E3. An 18 watter might be ok as long as it isn't putting out 18 watts.

You can get bigger high wattage Wall Volume Speaker Controls to build attenuators for bigger amps. You also need a bigger box to put it in.

I've run the attenuator with a 10-12watt amp and it's not even warm, so I'll think it'll handle a 5E3 :wink:

My own Boothill attenuator arrived today. I opened the package and found all the parts and schematic. It went together easy and quickly. It really works great and drops the cranked volume of my 5F2A and 5E3 way down to bedroom levels. The amps still sound good too. The speakers aren't really working hard or pushing much air I suppose, but still, it does what it's supposed to, and quite well. Thanks Dave for thinking about the hobbyist amp builder/home player. I recommend this kit.

I should add that Dave's kit is a no bling, no smoke or mirrors, kinda kit. It's the straight goods. A basic down the earth kind of no crap, attenuator kit that just gets the job done. I smiled when I opened the package and found a simple hand drawn schematic, most likely drawn by Dave. There's not many things these days that can make me feel like a kid at Chistmas again. Dave's package did it. Thanks.

This sounds perfect for my 5E3. I am curious though if it will also do OK with my Matchless Spitfire 2x10 combo. It has two 30-watt 16-0-ohm Weber alnicos combined for an 8-ohm load out of a single jack. The PT is a Weber W025130and the OT is a Heyboer model for an 18-watt Marshall-type amp. I don't dime the amp, just enough volume and master to get the right chime, sustain, and breakup. That volume is also enought to annoy anyone else in the house. Thought, opinions?

:?:

sorry to push this old thread back up,
but I just recieved mine, does anyone have a diagram of how this is put together :P?

most importantly, is the cap on lug 2 and 1 ?

Lay everything out first before you solder.

Lug number one = ground. Lug number 2 = wiper. Lug number three = hot. Capacitor leads should be soldered to lug 2 and lug 3.

Solder a jumper between the ground and the switch on each of the two jacks. Solder a green wire from the ground on one jack to the ground on the other. Solder a green wire from the second jack's ground to the ground lug on the pot.

Solder a brightly colored wire from the hot tip of one jack to the hot lug (lug 3) on the pot.

Solder another such wire from the hot tip of the other jack to the wiper (lug 2) on the pot.

Secure pot and jacks to project box with star washers on the inside.

Screw cover on bottom of unit.

Attach self adhesive rubber feet.

Make your cable with wire and two male input jacks provided.

Unit will function in either direction.

Done! Now I need to get some tubes and t:)ry it all out

Man, next time I need one of these!

When Boot Hill started offering these, I was really interested, but I thought "next kit."

But before all this, I made inquiries at my local supplier for a Weber, but they were out of stock.... until just a little while ago. They said, "You wanted one, right?" In Japan, making an inquiry is quite similar to placing an order (it's a social thing, when you get to be a 'regular,' you become semi-obligated).

So I ended up buying the Weber Load Mass. They didn't have the 25W, so gave me the 50W at the lower price. Well, it works exactly as everyone's been saying Dave's does, and even has some bling! But it's big and won't fit inside anything... Next time I need yours, Dave!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8446/7757619740_594bfda267_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/charisjapan/7757619740/)