Compensated saddle questions

I am looking into changing the stock non-comp saddles on my tele with a set of compensated saddles. Does anyone here use the Wilkinson compensated saddle set and are they accurate? I have a set of Glendale on my other telecaster, but I paid a bunch more for that set.

So I am wondering if the Wilkinson's will do as good of a job. Any thoughts?

i have bought just the plain old Wilkinson saddles to put on a guitar and they work just fine. i would have to say that to any noticeable degree the intonation is perfect and they sound and feel great. no problems so far.

:roll: Thanks, but I really looking for input from someone who has the compensated Wilksinson saddles.

oh woops, i meant to say the plain old COMPENSATED saddles. yea they are great pieces of work!

I am looking into changing the stock non-comp saddles on my tele with a set of compensated saddles. Does anyone here use the Wilkinson compensated saddle set and are they accurate? I have a set of Glendale on my other telecaster, but I paid a bunch more for that set.

So I am wondering if the Wilkinson's will do as good of a job. Any thoughts?
you could bend yours manually, well, with a pair of needle-nose. :idea:

I've got them on two teles and the do work great. Intonation is perfect.

Sorry, I get the feeling that I did not make myself clear. I looking for input on the Brass Compensated Saddles, I know Wilkinson makes them and so do many other vendors.

I am interested to hear from those who use the Wilkinson brand and how accurate they are when properly setup.

Thanks!

I have one of these Wilkinson bridges with compensated saddles. According to my tuner and ear, intonation is spot on -- or as close as you could want or expect.

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q246/biliousprudence/w.jpg

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-discussion-forum/331626-review-wilkinson-3-saddle-compensated-bridge.html


http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-discussion-forum/335691-saddles-whats-your-choice.html

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-discussion-forum/223972-compensated-vs-non-compensated-brass-tele-saddles.html#post2645967

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-discussion-forum/229173-do-brass-saddles-really-make-much-difference.html

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-technical/333760-threaded-saddles-what.html

Sorry, I get the feeling that I did not make myself clear. I looking for input on the Brass Compensated Saddles, I know Wilkinson makes them and so do many other vendors.

I am interested to hear from those who use the Wilkinson brand and how accurate they are when properly setup.

Thanks!

That's why I said I have them on two teles. They are Wilkinson brand compensated saddles and I like them.

That's why I said I have them on two teles. They are Wilkinson brand compensated saddles and I like them.

No problem, thanks!

Sorry, I get the feeling that I did not make myself clear. I looking for input on the Brass Compensated Saddles, I know Wilkinson makes them and so do many other vendors.

I am interested to hear from those who use the Wilkinson brand and how accurate they are when properly setup.

Thanks!

The guy in post #2 said he liked his, they worked fine. He's talking about the same ones you're talking about.

I wish they compensated a little less; they're kinda like the Joe Bardens to me. Too much compensation for most applications.

I wish they compensated a little less; they're kinda like the Joe Bardens to me. Too much compensation for most applications.

What would you recommend in as far as compensated saddles? Do you like the Glendale compensated saddles?

Wilkinson...Glendale...Rutters (I've got Rutters)....top of the line makers... should get you there with any of these...

Just get a set & try them. They are very little $$. I put them on my tele last year; I never even think about the pitch anymore on that axe, & I'm ultra-picky thereto.

What would you recommend in as far as compensated saddles? Do you like the Glendale compensated saddles?

I do like them, and have them on several guitars.

Dale has a "wide intone" set that's meant for Hi-Lo string sets, which is roughly approximate to the Joe Barden amount of slant. This tell us maybe the Joe Barden should work best with Hi-Lo string sets.

But there's a whole gallery of variables, including just the caprice of two guitars exactly the same model liking different saddles. To me, the unsung thing that messes up intonation and effects which saddle you try, is the radius of the fretboard and the effective radius one finds at the saddle end. If you have a compound radius of 10-16" inches, I find the 2 outboard saddles need more compensation (as they lay flatter when set up right). By comparison a guitar with a 7.25 board radius may actually be just fine with straight saddles in the outboard positions (as the tilt of the saddle supplants some of the task being assumed by the slant function).

Also, the string guage you choose seems to matter. On 9-42s, I think full compensation is often needed, while a guy with 12-54s may need none (or some slant on the middle saddle if the G is not wound).

The extent to which a guy is convinced that saddle X is perfect may depend on whether he's installed it on 1-2 guitars or whether he's done 20. It took a LONG time before I realized the slant was too much on the Joe Barden on many applications (I just moved them to other guitars where they were apropos). I was making other compromises to make them work that I suddenly realized were unacceptable ( and I suddenly decided the extra slant also looked bad to me :oops: )

I really like the Marc Rutters eccentric slotted saddles a lot. I think the Bill Callaham "enhanced" are great. But, sometimes I think the first set ( for a new-to-compensation player) is just a set of Stew Mac #5167s. They can be installed a lot of different ways (for example you could buy 3 sets and just change out the middle saddle on 9 American Vintage 52s) and they're just mildly compensated and they're less likely to knock an old die hard guy who always used straight saddles for a loop. See, as we play Teles we learn to compensate in other subtle ways as we play and maybe don't consciously know it. Guys have been doing little things, as they play, to disguise the weaknesses inherent to the basic design of the 6 string 25.5 scale 3 straight saddle electric guitar and then the rules change and you gotta "relearn" what you're doing.

If you have a compound radius of 10-16" inches, I find the 2 outboard saddles need more compensation (as they lay flatter when set up right). By comparison a guitar with a 7.25 board radius may actually be just fine with straight saddles in the outboard positions (as the tilt of the saddle supplants some of the task being assumed by the slant function).

Also, the string guage you choose seems to matter. On 9-42s, I think full compensation is often needed, while a guy with 12-54s may need none (or some slant on the middle saddle if the G is not wound).


The telecaster I am going to be putting the compensated saddles on has a 9.5 fretboard radius, medium U style neck, and I am using D'Addario's 10-46 nickel wound strings.

The telecaster I am going to be putting the compensated saddles on has a 9.5 fretboard radius, medium U style neck, and I am using D'Addario's 10-46 nickel wound strings.

You're kinda right down the middle.

Almost any form might work as perfect as you can get; any type of compensated saddle will probably be money well spent, and will be better than straight barrels.

I am looking into changing the stock non-comp saddles on my tele with a set of compensated saddles. Does anyone here use the Wilkinson compensated saddle set and are they accurate? I have a set of Glendale on my other telecaster, but I paid a bunch more for that set.

So I am wondering if the Wilkinson's will do as good of a job. Any thoughts?

Hey, I went through the Rutters 3 sets and 1 plate and they are are pretty penny also...after researching I bought 2 Wilkies with the compensated saddles and I ordered 4 sets of All Parts as well Aluminum,brass and Stainless and mixed them all up. The Wilkies gave the best overall possibly cause of the edge on them...but they all have ghost notes on 6 of my Teles...the Fender bridge with 6 saddles was the best on my Nashville Deluxe(stock),next the Squier CV60s with threaded saddles with a custom setup'd Hipshot B-Bender was just a bit closer and no complaints...the best to setting em up is to use the radius'd at the bridge and set the neck at medium height and tension...hope it helps ya..later :lol:

Hey, I went through the Rutters 3 sets and 1 plate and they are are pretty penny also...after researching I bought 2 Wilkies with the compensated saddles and I ordered 4 sets of All Parts as well Aluminum,brass and Stainless and mixed them all up. The Wilkies gave the best overall possibly cause of the edge on them...but they all have ghost notes on 6 of my Teles...the Fender bridge with 6 saddles was the best on my Nashville Deluxe(stock),next the Squier CV60s with threaded saddles with a custom setup'd Hipshot B-Bender was just a bit closer and no complaints...the best to setting em up is to use the radius'd at the bridge and set the neck at medium height and tension...hope it helps ya..later :lol:

So you have used the Rutters brass compensated, was it not up to your liking? After checking them out, I kind of like the design.

So you have used the Rutters brass compensated, was it not up to your liking? After checking them out, I kind of like the design.

Rutters saddles are really a nice change from the stock and a very unique design...as is his .1 thick hot rodded bridge unlike the norm of .047-.075 types.
The best is they can thicken up your Tele's harmonics at ease and with lighter picking sweeps the notes pop and the snappiness is all there ...maybe in the way I wrote my concerns it may be taken that I didn't like them but just the opposite ...on my favorite Tele bares Marc's great pieces!!.:grin:

Rutters saddles are really a nice change from the stock and a very unique design...as is his .1 thick hot rodded bridge unlike the norm of .047-.075 types.
The best is they can thicken up your Tele's harmonics at ease and with lighter picking sweeps the notes pop and the snappiness is all there ...maybe in the way I wrote my concerns it may be taken that I didn't like them but just the opposite ...on my favorite Tele bares Marc's great pieces!!.:grin:

After reading over everyone's input I realized how in depth the tradition of all Teles have evolved. The bridge and the saddles are more of the guitar's concern than the actual design of the instrument. I used many saddles and bridges but on one Tele preferred the Rutters cause of the performance. On other Teles I used Wilkinson's and Glendale. Truth be told I also used DBG's USA plates and Squiers. They are all different but the guitars are basically the same just set up differently to achieve, and compensating is really a personal issue not an obligation. No two guitars are the same and in no case can you say,you get what you pay for! As for the Wilkinson issue it's a great value and designed to meet many a players need first and utmost, but to each his own, keep on truckin,ya all!!:lol::lol::lol:

My opinion is get the Glendales.

My opinion is get the Glendales.

I have the Glendales on my other telecaster, just looking to see what all is out there and what folks think. Since I like trying different things to see what it yields, I often learn something new. Not always for the better.

I have the Glendales on my other telecaster, just looking to see what all is out there and what folks think. Since I like trying different things to see what it yields, I often learn something new. Not always for the better.

I'm the opposite. When I find something that works for me, I stick with it. :razz:

[QUOTE="boris bubbanov"]
Also, the string guage you choose seems to matter. On 9-42s, I think full compensation is often needed, while a guy with 12-54s may need none (or some slant on the middle saddle if the G is not wound).[QUOTE]

+1

I use 12-54's with wound G and don't need compensated saddles at all. Seems like my tele speaks better with the larger strings too, btw.

[QUOTE="boris bubbanov"]
Also, the string guage you choose seems to matter. On 9-42s, I think full compensation is often needed, while a guy with 12-54s may need none (or some slant on the middle saddle if the G is not wound).[QUOTE]

+1

I use 12-54's with wound G and don't need compensated saddles at all. Seems like my tele speaks better with the larger strings too, btw.

Yeah.

I found that going from a set of 9-42s on a (24.75 scale) Gibson Melody Maker, that didn't intonate at all, through the guages to a set of 12s, that all the intonation concerns went away with the stock bridge. It isn't perfect but the experience was an eye opener. I canceled my order for a high tech bridge for that reason on that guitar.

Full disclosure. I replaced the tuners and it changed the break angle at the nut and improved the nut so much, while this was going on, so IMO you do need to have the tuners and nut sorted to get the best result doing this.

I have the Wilkinsons on one tele and Glendales on two teles (aluminum low E and A).
The saddles intonate fine with both the wilkinsons and the glendales.
IMO the glendale bridge plates though are superior.

*.011 - .50's
9.5 radius
fat 'C' neck
(various fret wire sizes)

I bought one of the Wilkinson bridges with compensated saddles and could never get it anywhere near intonated correctly. I thought it was a piece of crap so I threw it away and went back to the original three-saddle bridge. Before I threw it away, I did notice that the saddles on mine did not look like any of the photos I had seen, so perhaps the saddles were incorrect.

Jim

I bought one of the Wilkinson bridges with compensated saddles and could never get it anywhere near intonated correctly. I thought it was a piece of crap so I threw it away and went back to the original three-saddle bridge. Before I threw it away, I did notice that the saddles on mine did not look like any of the photos I had seen, so perhaps the saddles were incorrect.

Jim

You know the Wilkinson gets alot of intonation clamor but it's big fame comes
from the superior ringing of the treble shrills being tamed and harmonic content thereafter, you can't realistically expect a Wilkies to intonate like a Glendale or produce rich harmonics of a Rutters...in that respect also of the Callaham vs Glendale plates and saddles where one touches and the other doesn't causing undue intonation problems because of design. But to no claim should a product be considered garbage just not meeting expectation.

Well, after thinking things over.......drum roll please.....I went with the Rutters brass compensated set. I should have it before next weekend I do hope.

I got this one (Wilkinson) on Ebay for $20 a few years ago for Squier tele project, and the six strings intonate fine with it: http://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkinson-Compensated-Telecaster-Bridge-Gold-with-Brass-Saddles_p_874.html

I got this one (Wilkinson) on Ebay for $20 a few years ago for Squier tele project, and the six strings intonate fine with it: http://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkinson-Compensated-Telecaster-Bridge-Gold-with-Brass-Saddles_p_874.html

How crisp are the chords and note definition, on my bridge(as yours but gold)
I noticed away from the anchor screws the content"middie to bright" but closer
to them came alot of bassier and bold note and volume increase that's really noticeable...comparing notes here!:?::grin:

How crisp are the chords and note definition, on my bridge(as yours but gold)
I noticed away from the anchor screws the content"middie to bright" but closer
to them came alot of bassier and bold note and volume increase that's really noticeable...comparing notes here!:?::grin:

I can't make a valid comparison. I switched the plate out right away. All strings intonate open and at 12th fret - that was my criterion. I have already switched the bridge pickup out twice, but now I am happy. Now there's a change that made a huge difference!