Looking for a good 110v cabinet saw & who is Steel City?

I 'm looking for a nice cabinet saw in the under $1500 range but I would prefer it to be 110v. Seems that most I find are 220v. Can these typically be rewired for 110v? Or, who makes a good 110v cabinet saw?

Steel City makes 110v cabinet saws but I have never heard of them before. They seem to have a big presence in the market. Where did they come from? Are they good saws?

I've seen steel city at WoodCraft, but know nothing about them.

Steel City makes decent equipment.
You can look at this Grizzly, too, can be wired for 110 V.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P

I would keep an eye on CL You might find an old deawalt contractor saw or old craftsman table saw. I dont no much about steel city but it seems I started seeing them at wood craft when the economy tanked so I would expect a low end cheap saw. Like I say I've seen some deals on Cabinet saws on CL that are just unbalivable better to buy one time and get a saw that will last a lifetime. If you can do 220 it's a better option allway around.

I have a table saw that can be wired 100 or 220. I started with it wired for 110. It pulled 30 amps on startup on a 15 amp breaker so needless to say the breaker tripped very often and the wiring got hot. It would also bog down and jam when cutting hardwoods and of course (luckily) the breaker would trip. I then rewired it for 220 and installed a dedicated 220 circuit for it and now it is much safer to use.

Steel City makes decent equipment.
You can look at this Grizzly, too, can be wired for 110 V.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P

This is a nice looking saw at a great price. Thanks for tipping me off on it. It's definitely in the running.

Any issues with running a 220 motor with 110 as Glen mentions?

No problems running it in 110. that's why they gave it the 'hybrid' name, so it can be wired 110/220.
Very good saw for the money.

You can run a 200 volt motor with 110 only if it has the capability of being wired for 110.
The saw in that Grizzly ad can be wired for 110 and will draw 16 amps on a 110 circuit. You might want to consult an electrician before using the saw on an ordinary 15 amp circuit.

This is a nice looking saw at a great price. Thanks for tipping me off on it. It's definitely in the running.

Any issues with running a 220 motor with 110 as Glen mentions?

Did you see this in the description of the saw?
NOTICE: 110V operation requires part #T23999 circuit breaker and wiring procedures that must be completed by an electrician or other qualified service personnel. See Owner’s Manual for details.

Might want to hit the Grizzly website and check out what that part is and how much it costs, also download the owner's manual and see what's involved.

Having said that, this is a real deal for a cabinet type saw.

The only issue I can think of would be that rewired to run at 110 (usually an easy swap of a couple of terminals, BTW), you'll double the amperage draw. Notice that the specs say it draws 16 amps running at 110. Most household circuits have 15 amp breakers. You may find your experience the same as Glen's.

Also, since the motor comes pre-wired for 220, it will probably have a 220 configuration plug. (That may be what the specified part is)

I've been looking around for awhile... CL and some patience seems to be the way to go.

But from looking at everything, I think you're really limiting the field with 115 Volt req. If your breaker panel (OR dryer, or stove) is near your shop you have some options.

If 110V is a limitation for you, then you're likely to come across the class of saws that are considered "hybrid" in a general sense. Basically they're bigger than contractor saws, they have the motor underneath instead of hanging off the back, they sometimes look like slightly scaled down cabinet saws, but they all have 15 amp 110V motors that are supposed to run on regular household circuits, and that tops out at about 1-3/4 horsepower (ignore the "peak" label). Honestly your best bet is to have a dedicated outlet and if you're doing any wiring, it's simple to get a 220V in there. Much more options especially for used equipment. But okay, you've got constraints like we all do. So you're shopping for a 110V table saw "hybrid."

There's a significant difference in the internal construction of the hybrid cabinet saws. The Delta and many others might look like a Unisaw, but they are really just built like contractor saws, where the blade is supported on trunions that hang from the top of the saw. To adjust the alignment (the blade needs to be parallel to a miter slot) you need to loosen bolts inside and move the trunnions round with a hammer and a stick. It's the same way that contractor saws are built (BTW I never saw a carpenter using a "contractor" saw, they only use lightweight benchtop motorized saws with the motor attached directly to the shaft with no belt).

The one standout is the Craftsman Industrial hybrid cabinet saw (although I've swapped out the motor for a 2HP Baldor running on 220, the stock 1-3/4 hp is a good capacitor start, capacitor run, TEFC motor with ball bearings, it's no slouch). This saw is made just like the venerable Unisaw but it's scaled down slightly for a smaller motor. The trunions that support the blade mechanism extend out to the edges and hang from the cabinet, independent of the top. To adjust the alignment you loosen the top and the whole top (fence and all) slides around until it's where you want and then you tighten the bolts. Meanwhile the trunnions aren't going anywhere, they stay bolted to the cabinet. Nice fit and finish, really well polished/ground flat cast iron top (all that takes is labor, and there's plenty of it where this thing was made). My only complaint is that the hold-down gadget on the miter gauge fell apart, but if you're shopping for a good table saw you probably already appreciate that the miter gauges included with many saws are junk. My saw came with a 30" Biesemeyer (two boxes, the imported saw and the domestically made fence system).

BTW if you're running a smaller motor on 110V I'd suggest a thin-kerfed blade with a stabilizer disk, that way the motor will be less stressed cutting less material.

Jet City was well received in the woodworking magazines at least ten years ago; never tried one though.

As Vizcaster notes, a "hybrid" saw reffers to how the motor is mounted, not voltage.

For what it is worth, I got a great old Unisaw (cabinet saw) completely rebuilt 1959,
1 1/2 HP runs on 110v or 220v. Found on local woodworkers forum for $650.00. I upgraded the fence, and gaurd and could not be happier. Oh and like noted run a thin kerf blade, it is eaiser on the saw and for what it's worth saves materail.

I highly recommned an older good condition Unisaw.

Good luck in your search.

Koolaide

Why are you trying to avoid the 220?

The only issue I can think of would be that rewired to run at 110 (usually an easy swap of a couple of terminals, BTW), you'll double the amperage draw. Notice that the specs say it draws 16 amps running at 110. Most household circuits have 15 amp breakers. You may find your experience the same as Glen's.

I have a 20 amp cicuit that I use for my saw, so this wouldn't be a problem



There's a significant difference in the internal construction of the hybrid cabinet saws. The Delta and many others might look like a Unisaw, but they are really just built like contractor saws, where the blade is supported on trunions that hang from the top of the saw. To adjust the alignment (the blade needs to be parallel to a miter slot) you need to loosen bolts inside and move the trunnions round with a hammer and a stick. It's the same way that contractor saws are built (BTW I never saw a carpenter using a "contractor" saw, they only use lightweight benchtop motorized saws with the motor attached directly to the shaft with no belt).

Jet City was well received in the woodworking magazines at least ten years ago; never tried one though.

What is the advantage of mounting the motor to the cabinet? Is it only the ease of adjusting the alignment or is it more for reducing vibration? The alignment advantage doesn't seek like a big deal but the vibration does.

I 'm trying to figure out what I would be giving up in going with a hybrid saw vs a cabinet saw.

Why are you trying to avoid the 220?

I 'm avoiding it because I don 't have it! My major power tools are used in my detached garage. I do have 15 & a 20 amp 110v circuits there but to get 220 I think I would have to pay an electrician to pull addition wies throuh the underground conduit etc.

I 'm going to look more into the above mentioned Grizsly hybrid saw.

If you have (2) 15 amp or (2) 20 amp circuits in your garage. You can get 220 without new wiring... and yes... it is up to code.

If you have (2) 15 amp or (2) 20 amp circuits in your garage. You can get 220 without new wiring... and yes... it is up to code.

Hmmm...I have one 15 amp and one 20 amp circuit. Could I create a 220 outlet while still keeping the 110 circuits?

I use the 15 amp circuit for lights, door opener, dust collection, radio, etc. The 20 amp circuit is used exclusively for table saw, jointer, planer.

Actually, talk to an electrician before you buy. If you do have conduit running to the garage, pulling wires is simple, assuming that wires need to be pulled (a 220 line is really two 110 lines attached to adjacent breakers at the panel).

My point about the construction of the cabinet vs hybrid saws is that the Craftsman is built like a Unisaw, where the other hybrids are not. The issue is more than just ease of adjustment (but that's a huge deal, actually); the construction of the actual cabinet saws does allow for less vibration.

Good point about a rewired 220 motor drawing tons of current on a 110 circuit, you'd need heavier wires and breaker, so you might as well run a new line. 220 has an advantage in that it's less prone to brownouts or reduced voltage, which is better for the motor.

Actually, talk to an electrician before you buy. If you do have conduit running to the garage, pulling wires is simple, assuming that wires need to be pulled (a 220 line is really two 110 lines attached to adjacent breakers at the panel).

My point about the construction of the cabinet vs hybrid saws is that the Craftsman is built like a Unisaw, where the other hybrids are not. The issue is more than just ease of adjustment (but that's a huge deal, actually); the construction of the actual cabinet saws does allow for less vibration.

Good point about a rewired 220 motor drawing tons of current on a 110 circuit, you'd need heavier wires and breaker, so you might as well run a new line. 220 has an advantage in that it's less prone to brownouts or reduced voltage, which is better for the motor.

It sounds like 220 is where I want to be.

Thanks for walking me through all this:cool:

Look at it this way--with your $1500 saw budget, you could buy that Grizzly saw, keep it wired for the preferable 220, and probably have enough left over to pay an electrician to wire up the 220 v circuit. Might be able to save by pulling the wire yourself--ask the electrician if he'll work with you on it, to advise you on what to get--big box stores have what you'll need), and after you get the grunt work done, the electrician can come in and wire up each end for you.

This will also give you more options for other 220V equipment purchases in the future.

220 is the way to go,for all the reasons stated in previous posts

Hmmm...I have one 15 amp and one 20 amp circuit. Could I create a 220 outlet while still keeping the 110 circuits?

I use the 15 amp circuit for lights, door opener, dust collection, radio, etc. The 20 amp circuit is used exclusively for table saw, jointer, planer.

You can't raise the breaker size of the 15 amp unless you know that have 12 gauge wire, outlets, switches (everything) rated for 20 amps.

15 or 20 amp, you feed both circuits from a double pole breaker breaker... this will draw current from 2 adjacent locations in your breaker panel and provide you with 240 (hot to hot)... while still preserving all 120 circuits.