Newbie Question - Nut for Non-Standard Radius Neck

Hi all,

I'm in the process of building my first tele and started thinking about the installation of the nut (not quite there yet, but I'm trying to think ahead as much as possible). It's a two piece neck with a 12" radius fretboard.

I've got a local wood supplier slotting my fretboard for me, and they're cutting the nut slot in the process as well. I figured if it's cut with a flat bottom it should make things easier - now I'm not so sure.

I'd like to put a Graph Teq TUSQ XL nut on it, but the pre-slotted nuts already have the top radiused. Is this an issue? The radius of the top of the nut should match that of the fretboard right?

I really don't want to make my own nut because I don't wan't to spend anymore money on tools. Am I going to have to make my own? I understand that even if I buy a pre-slotted nut I'll have to make adjustments, but those are minor and should only require some fine-grit sandpaper.

Also, is the little tab on the bottom of the PQL-5000-00 nut to allow you to place it in a flat-bottomed nut slot? (here: http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=91)

Thanks!

I'd like to put a Graph Teq TUSQ XL nut on it, but the pre-slotted nuts already have the top radiused. Is this an issue? The radius of the top of the nut should match that of the fretboard right?
Yes on both

Am I going to have to make my own?
Probably

Also, is the little tab on the bottom of the PQL-5000-00 nut to allow you to place it in a flat-bottomed nut slot?
No..............as you can tell if you click on it...........the entire nut is radiused, top and bottom


Sorry to be the bearer of bad news :neutral:

Buying tools for nut work should be a must for all serious players. Nut files & feeler gauges would be the most basic things. Not huge $$; and you will use them for years if you have several guitars.

Otherwise, take the instrument to a pro & have a proper nut made. It is of utmost importance that you start off a new guitar with a quality nut, set up to your gauges & action preferences; at least to me.

Good luck!

I always imagined that the tab on the bottom WAS for a straight bottom slot. I thought that is why it is there on some of those nuts and not on some others...

Anyway the 5010 has a straight bottom...can't you use that one? It's 1/16" taller but could be sanded shorter on a piece of sandpaper if need be.

yeh the tab is for a flat bottomed slots on a tusq.... bust it out for a curved slot...

put the nut in the flat bottomed slot..... and grind a pencil flat in half... lay it on your frets and scribe a line on the nut.... match that curve shape by sanding the top down a bit..and adjusting the string slots to follow that curve as well... above the line though.... to suit the top action you want... you can do that when it's strung up.. one string at a time... by fretting fret #3 and checking the gap at fr1...


for getting that top curve on a nut even... I've used the inside of car rims and sandpaper..... when you find one the right curve...

and my hot water systems tank is a good match for some bottom curves to get ball park shapes before final fitting...

good luck.... ;)...

yeh the tab is for a flat bottomed slots on a tusq.... bust it out for a curved slot...

put the nut in the flat bottomed slot..... and grind a pencil flat in half... lay it on your frets and scribe a line on the nut.... match that curve shape by sanding the top down a bit..and adjusting the string slots to follow that curve as well... above the line though.... to suit the top action you want... you can do that when it's strung up.. one string at a time... by fretting fret #3 and checking the gap at fr1...


for getting that top curve on a nut even... I've used the inside of car rims and sandpaper..... when you find one the right curve...

and my hot water systems tank is a good match for some bottom curves to get ball park shapes before final fitting...

good luck.... ;)...


So the 5010 nut has the same string spacing and same distance from it edge to both E strings as the other nuts?

You're saying that when I marked the radius on the nut with the pencil I don't sand the nut all the way down to that line?

I've been following this thread:
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/314349-building-two-piece-neck-limited-resources-5.html

On page 5 he goes through what you're talking about with the pencil, but it looks like he then sands the nut all the way down to the curve and then files the slots in. Are you saying not to sand down to the curve line so that you can slowly work it down to the right height once you put strings on?

Thanks everyone for your responses.

Look at post 172, third photo, shows the nut from bridge side, you can clearly see the line still there after he filed slots.

IF you look at the specs for both nuts, the 5010 has the same e to e spacing as the other one, it is just longer and taller. You could just sand the bottom and side surfaces until you have the length and action you want and leave the top and grooves alone if they work for you. Buy the nut and take it to a guitar tech for fitting to the guitar or wait and have them do that and set the guitar up for you.