Woodworkers: Keep or Return This Body?

Hi All,

Just got this Vintage Strat body from Warmoth. I see grain that looks fishy. Warmoth says it is called a "fall check" and that it is "not a problem".

I'm uncomfortable to go forward with this piece.

Here's two pics.

Can I get some knowledge and opinions please?

Thank you,
DenisS.

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/6947/dscf4393aa.jpg
Shot at 2012-07-20

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/3458/dscf4391k.jpg
Shot at 2012-07-20

I don't see any issue with that. If it was indeed a crack, you'd see it at the bottom of the pocket as well. If you'd like a little piece of mind, just use a little superglue.

If it were an inexpensive body from GFS, I'd probably just use it, but from Warmoth it probably cost a bit more. I've been woodworking all my life and I've never heard the term "fall check". A quick search (duck-duck-go) turns up absolutely NO links with the terms "fall check" +wood +defects (that aren't talking about something else), so I'd say the folks at W were trying to pull a fast one.

Not seeing anything structurally problematic.

That being said, you obviously want to send it back. Warmoth, I assume, doesn't want to take back a finished body. I forget what the terms of sale are from them, but those are probably going to dictate what happens here.

Best of luck.

Not seeing anything structurally problematic.

That being said, you obviously want to send it back. Warmoth, I assume, doesn't want to take back a finished body. I forget what the terms of sale are from them, but those are probably going to dictate what happens here.

Best of luck.

The body came exactly as you see it from their showcase. They say I can send it back / exchange no problem.

I have no fixed notion on this - I am no wood expert. For all I know this anomaly may be all mojo to the tone. I just can't know that - and I can't know about it's structural integrity. So your informed opinions are what will make the difference. In absence of that, I guess the default would be to exchange.

Note: I have a beautiful JV neck to go onto this body. The butt is about 1/16" too wide for this standard sized pocket. That is easily handleable for me, and gives the chance for a nice tight fit. I leveled and recrowned the frets, as it had a slight rise at the body junction area on the last body (which made the most even little chingy buzz everywhere). I gave them a slight bit of fall-away. Can't wait to get this guitar into axtion.

I don't see any issue with that. If it was indeed a crack, you'd see it at the bottom of the pocket as well. If you'd like a little piece of mind, just use a little superglue.

I see what you mean, Voodoo. If we look at the flat of the pocket, we notice that line of grain moving towards the left. It looks sound and solid.

That helps. Thanx.

Keep it coming guys.

If it were an inexpensive body from GFS, I'd probably just use it, but from Warmoth it probably cost a bit more. I've been woodworking all my life and I've never heard the term "fall check". A quick search (duck-duck-go) turns up absolutely NO links with the terms "fall check" +wood +defects (that aren't talking about something else), so I'd say the folks at W were trying to pull a fast one.

I turned up a page that describes checks in wood as the inside and outside radius will dry at different rates and the wood opens up at the surface. I don't think this is what I have here.

When the say "fall check" maybe that refers to something that can happen in the autumn part of tree growth?

I think by "fall check" they mean it is an internal check* that resulted from stresses incurred during "falling" (more usually "felling") or when the tree was cut down.

*check: a split in wood that runs with the grain and perpendicular to the growth rings.

As for keeping/sending back -- If it is indeed separation of the wood fibers and not just discoloration I would be inclined to swap it out.

I agree, it is probably a felling check (split) because it goes across the grain. It is certainly not a split from seasoning. It is never going to get better and it could open up more, It affects the internal strength of the timber as it interferes with the timber's natural structure. Also, if there is one, there are probably more that you cannot see. You could remedy it by drilling it and injecting a glue that will spread into the surrounding timber, Superglue won't, but that won't cure any others that are there. If you can send it back and get it replaced then do so. Why spend your own time and money fixing something that can be replaced.

Ahh FELL check! hmmm searching searching.....nope. Only three links with the phrase "fell check" and the word wood. Still nothing. I'd say a made up phrase from Warmoth.

Here, in Aus., we call it a felling shake. It normally happens when the feller is a bit careless and drops the tree across a stump, rock, another tree, or his truck. Maybe they, the suppliers, have combined two words: fell, meaning "bad or evil" and check, meaning "check it before buying or you will get a nasty surprise".:razz::razz::lol:

Send it back. Get a body that will be free of questions and you know will last and resonate well.

If it were an inexpensive body from GFS, I'd probably just use it, but from Warmoth it probably cost a bit more. I've been woodworking all my life and I've never heard the term "fall check". A quick search (duck-duck-go) turns up absolutely NO links with the terms "fall check" +wood +defects (that aren't talking about something else), so I'd say the folks at W were trying to pull a fast one.

It depends on how high it was dropped from and how fast the van was going at the time :rolleyes:

Ahh FELL check! hmmm searching searching.....nope. Only three links with the phrase "fell check" and the word wood. Still nothing. I'd say a made up phrase from Warmoth.

Despite your google results it is not a made up phrase. I learned the term in forestry school. See my earlier post for the meaning.

Use a super thin glue and rock on,,
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Glues,_adhesives/Stewart-MacDonald_Super_Glues/Super_Glue.html

Send it back. Get a body that will be free of questions and you know will last and resonate well.

Concur.

Too much risk. If you build up this one and it doesn't turn out well, you'll be kicking yourself.

If you have the option to return it for another one, do it. Otherwise you'll always have that little nagging feeling in the back of your mind when something isn't 'perfect' with your tone ha ha

Warmoth IMHO does a pretty good job of trying to please... pay the ship back fee if needed and get another one... ya' want one that is solid regardless of the potential for problems. Everything else is a guess. They do a lot of bodies, and I'm sure they want a satisfied customer?

Curious how it turns out?

Have you tried poking a needle of other sharp object into the check to see if it's any softer than the rest?

I wouldn't worry about it. Just stick a neck on there and go to town.

send it back

Even if it was done by wood nymphs, it's still a crack. If you feel comfortable with it, keep it. Me, I'd send it back.

Despite your google results it is not a made up phrase. I learned the term in forestry school. See my earlier post for the meaning.
^correct
I worked in sawmills and planermills for 30 years. I would return that body and get one without such defects. As lumber graders we'd grade pieces with falling checks Utility at the very best and if it was extensive, sent to the chipper.

Wick in all the superglue it will take and play it, no big deal. Does it go through to the neck pickup cavity?

So follow up with us. Did you end up keeping it or sending it back?

I have a strat same color and pup layout and I have a crack going from heal all the way down the body, very small. I've had the guitar for years without any issue's and it sound's amazing. Only you know what you feel comfortable doing with it.

OK, Thanks everybody for your help with this.

I decided not to shoot down the Albatross. How could I know what fate was doing with me? Maybe I would bring on a curse by rejecting a hidden blessing.

So, here's a pic of the final outcome.

We ran it Saturday night through a '64 Vibrolux Reverb Amp that I restored Sat morning as part of the inspiration.

Lawdy, I'm happy! The result is beyond my expectations. An amazing sounding ax, an amazing player.

My goal on this project:

In the late '70s I owned a '65 red rock and roll Strat for one day. It was part of a deal with Marshall heads and bottoms and a '65 Precision bass that I also wish I never sold. Anyway, that red Strat played itself and sounded great, but I was strickly a Gibson man at that time. I never forgot that guitar. I remember playing SWBLR on it. It was so ... wow.

I knew I could probably never duplicate that ax, but I wanted a Straty sounding Strat that sounded something like that one, and was something like it in feel.

I used this stuff:

Warmouth Vintage Alder body.

Fender Jimmie Vaughn neck with s/n MSN6... (2006 I guess). I leveled and crowned it with just a bit of fall-away on the last 5 or 6 frets. I thought this might be a mistake, using Maple, but no. The guitar sounds 'normal' it is not too hoppy or poppy or stringy sounding. These necks do feel nice!

An inexpensive Fender bridge - Vintage Reliance Gold 0053275000 2&7/32" spacing for mounting and string spread. Sits nice and very stable. Have it less than 1/8" off the deck.

Fender steel inertia block - Bridge Block Vintage Strat 0019473000.

Raw Vintage springs - installed all 5 (and made my first scratch on back of guitar). They made a difference in tone, but a great difference in feel. I will always use them from now-on.

Older ToneRider City Limits pickup set. Non reverse.

Fender pickguard (the Warmouth one was thin junk).

I used a Super switch because I like to have a tone control for 4 positions and the other tone control dedicated to the bridge pickup.

The tone controls are coming off of the center leg of the volume, as per the regular way, because I think it sounds better and the treble roll-off as I turn down is useful to me.

I tried using the Fender bent steel saddles, but I can't stand the feel. So I went with a set of solid steel block saddles from KGC. They hardly changed the tone. It did not get sizzly or harsh or poppy. You would have to do a strict A/B test to know the difference. It may have been a bit warmer with the stamped bent steel, but those gold plated saddles that come with this bridge are lousy. They would need a good wire wheel polishing to become harmonicly stable - maybe. The strings hung up and jumped on them. They did not slide. The block saddles feel great, and the geometry is better, they adjust perfectly and stay there.

I am completely satisfied with the project. Enjoying the guitar.

Thanks again, everybody!

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2881/dscf4533s.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/411/dscf4533s.jpg/)

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OK Jimo - that clears it up! thanx.