Duo-sonic type build

Hi,
I got this idea as soon as I realized I could probably build some guitars, that is last autumn. The build is based on a 1971 Fender Music Master I bought in the 90's for quite cheap. Someone had modified it miserably, like this:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_0911.jpg

The pickup has been moved to bridge position, and a disturbing flame has been painted on the body. Also the pickguard is obviously not original. And the body has been "routed" too:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_0857.jpg

Looks like someone wanted a humbucker in the neck position, but then decided to have the original pickup in the bridge position instead.

It has, of course, the huge headstock too - you either love or hate it. I love.
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_0864.jpg

The serial number dates to 1971, and the neck has matching stamp in the heel. No, I'm not going to modify this any further and definitely not trying to restore it to original shape. But I took the outline of the body and neck and now I'm going to build me a Duo-sonic kind of guitar. I started the neck already last year, but it has been sitting idle until today.

I made a two-piece body blank out of grandad's mystery wood, which has been discussed here (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/337741-wood-identification-grandads-old-stash.html). This is it after bandsaw:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1140.jpg

I guess the wood might be alder after all? It's very light stuff.

This is what I have now. Today put frets and markers on the neck. My first time making a rosewood fingerboard, so there will be questions in the finishing stage. The dots are smaller than in the original neck, but I like the small ones better as the neck is quite narrow. It's 24" scale of course. Back is not shaped yet.
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1141.jpg

The pickguard is from eBay seller cwgp2010, that is Custom World Guitar Parts in the Netherlands. It's labeled Mustang pickguard, but it's the same thing. Fits pretty good.

I'd like to have the original style bridge, and it would probably be possible to just cut / bend / drill it out of a steel plate. I'm not going to try a replica of any existing model, just a guitar that has the same looks. Not yet sure about the pickups and wiring, I definitely don't want the original on/off/phase switches but something else - maybe just neck/both/bridge switching on one and let the other be a dummy.

The finish is under consideration, too. And I'm not going to hurry with this build, so no frequent updates, sorry...

I love the way the maple figure enhances the headstock shape; a fortuitous accident, or did you plan that?

This will be a nice guitar. I love the simplicity of the entry-level Fenders.

I love the way the maple figure enhances the headstock shape; a fortuitous accident, or did you plan that?


That was just a nice accident. I had just started to practice neck building and routed two pieces of maple to this shape and chose this one just for the figuring. The other is waiting for something else. And now when I look at the body, I see some similar grain close to the control plate area. But this will probably be painted, so that won't be seen.

Welllllllllll, great minds think alike :lol:. This is the bridge I'm using LINK (http://www.allparts.com/Duo-Sonic-Chrome-Bridge-p/sb-5813-010.htm), cheap too :smile:. I'm sure Allparts Europe has it as well

Welllllllllll, great minds think alike :lol:. This is the bridge I'm using LINK (http://www.allparts.com/Duo-Sonic-Chrome-Bridge-p/sb-5813-010.htm), cheap too :smile:. I'm sure Allparts Europe has it as well

Do you have a similar project? Thanks for the link, but I might consider this:
http://angela.com/fendermusicmaster6saddlebridgeandferrules.aspx
I'd like to have the original shape, this has individual saddles, but it's string through. Could probably be drilled for top loading as well.

Do you have a similar project?
Yes I do, I will post a build thread as soon as my 12 string is completely finished :smile:

Thanks for the link, but I might consider this:
http://angela.com/fendermusicmaster6saddlebridgeandferrules.aspx
I'd like to have the original shape, this has individual saddles, but it's string through. Could probably be drilled for top loading as well.
As long as it has the round bridge barrels I see no problem with drilling holes for a top-loader. There is a seller on Ebay, Bezdez that has that bridge, but although cheaper, as he is in Canada the shipping might make it more costly for you

I'm waiting to see your version, Dave!

Thanks for the tip - Bezdez has lots of great stuff for cheap, but I couldn't find that bridge there. My rosewood fingerboard blanks, including the one I used on this neck, are from Bezdez by the way.

Angela's shipping cost to Finland is over 30 bucks, more than the price of the item. I gotta figure out something else.. Still thinking about bending some steel myself. Have to do a matching control plate too, if I go that way.

Here's a bridge idea I might use here, thanks Mojotron!
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/338924-best-brige-longest-sustain.html#post4308082

I'm waiting to see your version, Dave!
I'll be posting soon :smile:

Bezdez has lots of great stuff for cheap, but I couldn't find that bridge there

Your right, here was what I was looking at. Actually resembles the Fender Tornado bridge LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-ELECTRIC-GUITAR-BRIDGE-HARDTAIL-through-body-/220516482353?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item3357ce7d31#ht_1453wt_1059) (and it would work, just not as a top-loader)

If you go with Mojo's idea, I'd use these LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPENSATED-BRASS-ELEMENTS-UPGRADE-TELE-GUITAR-BRIDGE-/400197970956?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item5d2da86c0c#ht_1454wt_1059) to prevent intonation problems (which Duos were notorious for). I may end up getting a set myself but I want to hear what my bridge sounds like first :wink:



Dave

Dave's got a head start in his duo build, so I'd better make some progress!

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1152.jpg

The cavity template is based on pictures I googled, the pickguard I have and a very inaccurate Mustang PDF. Neck pocket was tricky, never done a round heel neck and had to just file, sand, test, file some more etc..

Then I routed and messed up around the bridge pickup - also damaged the template. I thought I already knew how to do this.. Still practicing.

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1153.jpg

It's hanging there...
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1155.jpg

I had to really push the neck in, but it needs some sanding still, so I guess it will be fine.

The neck thickness taper I figured out like this: taped two different thickness blocks on the ends and routed the underside:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1149.jpg

And then used the 45 degree bit:

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1150.jpg

More neck shaping stuff next time!

Good looking progress! :smile:. Hey, I might be ahead on the body, but your ahead of me on the neck :lol:. I'm really looking forward to these two honeys :grin:




Dave

disregard

Hey tklaavo -- elegant simplicity on that setup to do the
neck thickness!

I guess you kept the neck up on the blocks when
you routed with the 45 degree router bit?

Fascinating thread - always interesting to see a short-scale build.

Hey tklaavo -- elegant simplicity on that setup to do the
neck thickness!

I guess you kept the neck up on the blocks when
you routed with the 45 degree router bit?

thanks! And no, I didn't have the blocks then, can't get the bit so high, but now when you mention, it makes sense to have the same angle there as well.
So I guess I'll redo that part with shims, thanks for the idea!

Today I sweated for some hours.

Body roundover. This is after raising the grain. Quite hairy, will need to sweat even more. The roundover radius could be bigger, but this is the biggest roundover bit I have:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1165.jpg

The neck shaping jig, refined model, with some tools of the trade:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1164.jpg

I got this far. Still some work left:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1166.jpg

I'm going to try to build a bridge like the one in my Musicmaster, also the control plate out of the same steel plate. We'll see how much sweat that will be.

Neck carve finished and sanded. Now it needs a fret dress and finish!
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1168.jpg
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1169.jpg

For the first time I feel I succeeded in this. The shape just feels right. I got so confident that I started reshaping my 2012 challenge neck, because I've disliked the shape since day two - too much U, i'm aiming for kind of D.

I'd like to try nitro finish on this one. There's a lot of questions coming to my mind. Like:
- What grit should I sand the wood before lacquering? Would 320 be enough?
- Should I use dewaxed shellac as a sanding sealer before that? Would it give any benefits or cause problems I'd regret later?
- what kind of masking tape would be best to cover the fret board? How do basic masking tapes react to nitro?
- how about the edge between lacquered maple and the bare rosewood - should I leave a small (less than half mm) amount of rosewood unmasked and then smoothen the transition when buffing the surface?

1. That roundover on the body is cool, you don't want to overdo it. Matter of fact, the first (non-offset) duos & mm were slab bodies. All the offsets had 1/2" (AFAIK) like a strat. Yours looks plenty close enough and is quite nice :smile:


2. That is a very fine neck, I'd be proud of that :wink:. Since my fretboard was cut for an acoustic/gibson type nut, mine will not look very authentic there. I noticed you routed the pups like a mustang, you can just extend the rout on the neck pup down to the tip of the pickguard and use a les paul type switch duosonic style like this one below the neck pup

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kwZ6gAMSw0Q/TwxlpR45uyI/AAAAAAAAA5U/_dfULCgH0eE/s640/003-3.jpg


It's just a thought, but it'd look kinda cool with the mustang style plate


3. I use shellac as a base coat and wetsand to 400 grit, you just can't get carried away with a lot of coats. If it's going to have primer then paint, it need not be over 3 coats max, if that. I have given this advice to people who have had trouble with it so remember, if that's anything like alder, you can just "whisker" the wood with a damp sponge, sand it smooth and just primer it :wink:. It's a closed pore wood and doesn't really have to have a sealer coat

2. That is a very fine neck, I'd be proud of that :wink:

Thanks, although my evidence photos are not too detailed.. Yes I'm proud.



I noticed you routed the pups like a mustang, you can just extend the rout on the neck pup down to the tip of the pickguard and use a les paul type switch duosonic style like this one below the neck pup


Nope.. this is more like the Duo Sonic II, which was basically a hardtail Mustang. With slider switches. Like this from '66:
http://www.guitarsandeffects.com/images/66duosonic.jpg

And about the finish: Solid on the body, not sure yet about the colour. Red seems to work with the kind of pickguard I have, but I was thinking of blue.. Not a "proper" Fender colour of any era, no need for such.. Thanks for the advice, will need some sealing sith shellac. And yes, primer too. I'm still filling and sanding the rough parts.

I was thinking about nitro on the neck especially, there are other options too, this time Danish oil is out of the question.

Nope.. this is more like the Duo Sonic II, which was basically a hardtail Mustang. With slider switches. Like this from '66:
http://www.guitarsandeffects.com/images/66duosonic.jpg


Ahh, your going to be much more authentic than I am. I do like the idea of other colors though. The red/white/blue of the American guitars pale in comparison to the ones built in Japan, for Japan. The Duo/Mustang is probably one of the most popular guitars over there. I know how they feel :lol:

A bit of an update, this is going on slowly.

I did the Scatter Lee thing on the fret ends. Originally I cut them so that the tang is bit shorter than the slot, so there's a gap to fill with superglue and rosewood dust. Looks like this at best:

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1186.jpg

Really happy - some are not as invisible as these, but pretty good I think. Got the idea from Scatter's latest challenge build.

Then, after lot of finish sanding I masked the fretboard and applied a coat of orange/yellow sort of shellac. It's from a jar where the wax has sunk to the bottom - gotta be careful and not shake or stir it, just get the clear stuff from the top.

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1187.jpg

When it was dry I wet sanded and rubbed using white spirit. I don't know if that's appropriate, but it seems to do the trick very easily without making the shellac coat sticky.

Another shellac trick I learned when I googled about dewaxed shellac. Some guy had found out that if you have shellac that contains wax, you can put the jar in the freezer for some time. The wax gets hard and sinks to the bottom, and the clear solution of (now de-waxed) shellac is on the top, in liquid form, and easy to pour into another container.

Haven't tried it yet though, but I will.

Gonna put another coat of warm-coloured shellac on the neck and then think about the lacquer. Nitro with my new spray gun?

Cool, looks good! :smile:

Been a while..

I need the control plate and a bridge. The bridge is more tricky, people ask like 100 bucks / euros for old originals at eBay. The control plate could be bought for about ten. But I've got steel to work with - just gotta find out how to do it with the limited tools.

First the easy piece, the control plate. I had a piece of about 3mm thick steel plate with already one 10mm hole, perfect for a pot or jack. So after destroying some hacksaw blades and such, I had made this:

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1213.jpg

It was a lot of filing, grinding and drilling. Some sweetening still has to be done on it, but there's no way to make it "perfect", we'll see. This is the "template" I had made out of the original, too bad I couldn't just use the template router with steel..

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1229.jpg

It was a nightmare to shape that stuff, and I didn't even think about bending it to a bridge, so I took a 2euro cheap scraper, which was just perfect size for the bridge. I had a photo of the original blown up to 1:1 size and used that as reference, also the pickguard contour. The bridge project started like this:

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1215.jpg

No, it's not red hot after the heavy machinery, just reflecting something red. Some heat was generated, anyway.

This is how I matched the contour with the pickguard. No, that's not a real bridge there, but the photo I printed for reference:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1216.jpg

Measured and marked the screw locations. Drilled with a fence to get them lined up:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1220.jpg

Like this. Now this scraper is some tough stuff to drill. Not perfect spacing, because the drill bit wanted to wander. But close enough for R&R.
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1221.jpg

For the string through and saddle screw holes I made a little guide jig..
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1222.jpg

.. and broke the small drill bit. Did I say this stuff is hard? Had to make the holes just a little bigger, and couldn't get them in line even with the jig:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1224.jpg

I thought the bending would be the easy part. Oh, it's not when you got to do it in a vice with bare hands:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1225.jpg

Ok, I used a hammer too.. the end result was this:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1226.jpg

And after some more shaping with a grinder, it will be like this, with saddles too:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1227.jpg

Need to work some more, not square yet..
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1228.jpg

But because it was a nice day to spray, I went to shoot some primer on the body as well as my Pine Tele Refinish Excercise:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1230.jpg

The dark spot in the middle of the Duo is one of those unlucky insects that were too interested. I'm going to need a spray booth of some sort before the actual colour, need to think about that.

Until next week (probably). :razz:

... you can just extend the rout on the neck pup down to the tip of the pickguard and use a les paul type switch duosonic style like this one below the neck pup

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kwZ6gAMSw0Q/TwxlpR45uyI/AAAAAAAAA5U/_dfULCgH0eE/s640/003-3.jpg
...

Dave:

I recognize that routing pattern. :grin: Do you actually have a template for the '56-'64 Duo Sonic body?

Dave:

I recognize that routing pattern. :grin:
I thought you might :wink:


Do you actually have a template for the '56-'64 Duo Sonic body?
I wish............I made mine bass akwards :lol:, I drew the pickguard then made a pattern of it. Then I drew it onto the body blank then drew in my own routes, then of course............routed it :lol:. It's a crazy system for sure, but one that worked for me :wink:

I thought you might :wink:



I wish............I made mine bass akwards :lol:, I drew the pickguard then made a pattern of it. Then I drew it onto the body blank then drew in my own routes, then of course............routed it :lol:. It's a crazy system for sure, but one that worked for me :wink:

Darn! I thought maybe I had finally found it. I've actually considered buying a vintage body on eBay to get it duplicated on a pin router if I can't find a full-size pattern.

Darn! I thought maybe I had finally found it. I've actually considered buying a vintage body on eBay to get it duplicated on a pin router if I can't find a full-size pattern.

What pattern are you looking for?

What pattern are you looking for?

'56-'64 Duo Sonic, the first version. I looked (and asked) on the plans thread, and I've hunted all over online, but I haven't been able to find it.

Darn! I thought maybe I had finally found it. I've actually considered buying a vintage body on eBay to get it duplicated on a pin router if I can't find a full-size pattern.

How about the Squier Classic Vibe Duo? I don't know if it's exact, but looks like it and could be a cheaper alternative for a template.

How about the Squier Classic Vibe Duo? I don't know if it's exact, but looks like it and could be a cheaper alternative for a template.

The CV Duo has an offset waist and a different scale length (24" vs 22.5" on the early Fender). It looks fairly similar superficially, but it's not quite what I'm looking for.

How about the '63 Duo Sonic?

How about the '63 Duo Sonic?

You, sir, are a saint! :grin: :grin: :grin:

How about the '63 Duo Sonic?

Whoa!
This means I need to start another Duo build someday. This plan will be saved for later times. Thanks!

You are more than welcome, both of you and anyone else who needs this plan. I found it while snooping around on the internet so my only merit is to have saved it and shared it and what are Forums for if not sharing.
I am looking forward to seeing build photos.

Regarding scale length - I'm not sure, but isn't it so that Fender short scales were originally made by just shifting the nut position to the first fret of a 25.5" scale (about 24") or the second fret (about 22.5")

This means that they could use the same tooling to cut the slots.. savings..

So the actual scale lengths would be about 24.07" and 22.7"

I read this somewhere, I might be wrong too. But if it's true, then 24" and 22.5" necks would be interchangeable in the same guitar, as the 22.5" nut is where the 1st fret of a 24" neck would be...

Regarding scale length - I'm not sure, but isn't it so that Fender short scales were originally made by just shifting the nut position to the first fret of a 25.5" scale (about 24") or the second fret (about 22.5")

This means that they could use the same tooling to cut the slots.. savings..

So the actual scale lengths would be about 24.07" and 22.7"

I read this somewhere, I might be wrong too. But if it's true, then 24" and 22.5" necks would be interchangeable in the same guitar, as the 22.5" nut is where the 1st fret of a 24" neck would be...

I am actually thinking about building one with the neck from a Squier Mini. The mini is a 22.75" scale. I figure the worst case is I have to shift the bridge back 1/8" (1/2 the difference), but every picture I've ever seen of a Duo Sonic looks like there's more than enough saddle adjustment to place the bridge in the correct location and still be able to intonate. (and Minis are cheap used)

I am actually thinking about building one with the neck from a Squier Mini. The mini is a 22.75" scale. I figure the worst case is I have to shift the bridge back 1/8" (1/2 the difference), but every picture I've ever seen of a Duo Sonic looks like there's more than enough saddle adjustment to place the bridge in the correct location and still be able to intonate. (and Minis are cheap used)

I was once gonna do that, but the mini neck cramped my hand so badly I finally sold it............much too cheaply. The scale length was fine, it was just too thin and narrow for me :sad:. There's a lot of folks it would work for though :wink:

Back to my build..
I thought of this sort of colour for the body:

http://www.tikkurila.fi/images/swatches/info/tikkurila_0348.gif

Nice. Old timey car paint. Should look very good with (light) cream.

Regarding scale length - I'm not sure, but isn't it so that Fender short scales were originally made by just shifting the nut position to the first fret of a 25.5" scale (about 24") or the second fret (about 22.5")

This means that they could use the same tooling to cut the slots.. savings..

So the actual scale lengths would be about 24.07" and 22.7"

I read this somewhere, I might be wrong too. But if it's true, then 24" and 22.5" necks would be interchangeable in the same guitar, as the 22.5" nut is where the 1st fret of a 24" neck would be...

To the best of my knowledge, this is true. I've built more than one 24" scale doing exactly that :wink:
The blue is perfect BTW, that's gonna be so cool! :grin:

A nice day to paint. This is the colour, which looks fine to me!

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1466.jpg
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1467.jpg

Great build. Love the Duo Sonic, would love to have a fun little guitar like that one day, but the rest of the GAS list will have to be whittled down first. By the way, here is a link to a site I got off some forum, has a lot of pdf plans for many many future projects.
http://www.gitarrebassbau.de/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6&start=0

a lot of pdf plans for many many future projects.
http://www.gitarrebassbau.de/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=6&start=0

Thanks, that's massive, not enough lifetime to go through them all, but I'll definitely look at that collection.

Anyway, let's finish this first. I had a beer and figured out a wiring diagram, hope you can figure it out too:

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1248.jpg

Here's a couple of Tokai Strat pickups I got for 5 euros a piece. No covers (yet)
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1247.jpg

It's simple: when the neck switch is on the bridge position, the bridge switch works as a pickup selector (middle position being both in parallel). When the neck switch is to the middle or neck position, it's both pickups in series and the other switch is bypassed.

When wired it looked like this...

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1246.jpg

I hope I can get the wires to fit in the cavities.
Tested with a ohm meter, got logical results, so I guess it works..

Well I'll be damned :shock:, that's cool wiring :wink:

I hope I can get the wires to fit in the cavities.
Tested with a ohm meter, got logical results, so I guess it works..

Hi,
Nice build TK!

Where did you get those switches?
Are they same as the originals/repro/ something else?

-Markus

Thanks,
The switches are by Switchcraft, probably the standard type. Bought them at Millbrook in Helsinki.

Thanks,
The switches are by Switchcraft, probably the standard type. Bought them at Millbrook in Helsinki.

Thanks.
That ain't too far from my place :-)

-Markus

hats off to you for some fine work and great pics!

A nice day to paint. This is the colour, which looks fine to me!

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1466.jpg
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1467.jpg

Looking good so far. This is going to be a beautiful guitar.

These pictures sent me to Google to look up Finkbräu. I thought it might be something somewhat local to you, but I guess that's not the case.

For some reason, I wasn't much of a beer guy for the three years I lived in Germany (talk about a waste). Of course, I've learned better since then, but that lost opportunity isn't coming back.

I'd love to be able to get some Löwen Weisse here, but at least I can get Franziskaner, which was a semi-local brand when I lived in Augsburg.

Looking good so far. This is going to be a beautiful guitar.
These pictures sent me to Google to look up Finkbräu. I thought it might be something somewhat local to you, but I guess that's not the case.

Thanks.. been a while. For a moment I wondered why did you think of Finkbräu, until I saw the cardboard, which was just lying around in my dad's garage. You know how beer cases just somehow show up there..

I have had hard times with the painting. First this:
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1269.jpg

I was able to sand that down, got down to the primer on some spots, then sprayed another coat. This time I got about six small insects on the surface...

Now I've sanded the surface flat, got the insects off too. I'm thinking I should build a sort of "spraying booth", like a big box with painted interior that can be blown with air and maybe moistened before spraying. Maybe also a fan running when I shoot so the insects will be blown away (I hope...) Really, any good ideas are welcome, even though I know there's no magic tricks except a clean room with air filtering etc. Maybe I should wait until it's late autumn and there's no more insects, but then the weather is usually very wet, which ain't good for spraying (it's already raining almost every day, and this September was the most rainy around here in 150 years..)

This is going to take longer than I thought!

Some mockup shots. The colour coat is now dry sanded with 400 and there will be one more coat
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1325.jpg

I re-routed the cavities deeper to fit all the wires and switch legs. Also made a truss rod nut adjust slot on the body, which does not exist on the Fender models, but I don't care - it's handy.
The pickguard needs some shaping to fit on the neck heel nicely. Self-made hardware needs attention - the control plate is too wide at the corners.

Rosewood fingerboard is masked for neck finishing. It's just dewaxed shellac at the moment. Gonna put nitro later, when weather and schedules allow.
http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1326.jpg

Found the right sort of knobs. The bridge plate does really look like I made it.. maybe I'll replace with something nicer later. Or maybe not. First we have to give it a try.

I imagine black pickup covers..
BTW, I wound the pickups myself. Details in my pickup thread (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/349033-low-tech-pickup-winding-thread-2.html#post4466964).

To do:
- One more coat of blue on the body
- Nitro on the neck
- Clear coats on the body
- Fret and nut job
- buff/polish and assembly
Maybe I get it ready for christmas and can have it as a present from myself.

I was once gonna do that, but the mini neck cramped my hand so badly I finally sold it............much too cheaply. The scale length was fine, it was just too thin and narrow for me :sad:. There's a lot of folks it would work for though :wink:

My daughter has one, it takes me about 30 seconds to get used to it and then it's all smiles and I can't put it down.

Great build TK it's looking like it will be beautiful once the clear hits it.

No, I haven't quit on this. Just a bit too busy and tired.

It's the finishing again. I sanded the last colour coat. Went through at one spot. Gotta add some paint again...

The neck feels just right with only the shellac, I might leave it as it is now. I have leveled and crowned the frets and made a nut. Installed Gotoh Magnum lock tuners which I like (some don't) because they're SOLID and I happened to have a set with oval buttons, I prefer them as they look nice and are smaller.

Did a test assembly. It's very, very light and resonant, that's promising. The bridge is a bit thin, and I could bend it with the palm of my hand. Not sure if it will stay, I have ordered this Toronado bridge with string through holes just in case I want something better.
http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/0053378000.jpg

Here's my only pic from the test assembly/setup process.

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/IMG_1336.jpg

The bridge fell into right place and strings stay on the fretboard, now ain't that something?

I like it! :wink:

Thanks Dave, I like it too!

Now I've decided it is ready.

http://helea.pp.fi/tklaavo/duosonic/duosonic_1.jpg

It's winter here, snow and cold so I couldn't spray any more. I didn't put a clear coat, just sanded and polished the paint. It's glossy enough for me, with some dings and scrathes already.

Sets up fine, I kept the homemade bridge. Sounds pretty good, quite strat-like and the series wiring option gives it totally different, boosted tone. I'm happy with it, I think it's better than what I expected.

Maybe I can get better pics later, no proper camera at the moment. The "looks very good" distance is about 4 feet on this one.

That's a nice one.

Sweet! I love my 76 MusicMaster, it just feels right. Is yours a short scale neck?

Yes, 24" scale, template from a '71 Musicmaster
.049-.011 strings now, could use even thicker.