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Acetone and Titebond - the dance

cjstcustom
July 14th, 2012, 01:58 PM
With acetone, I'm about to strip this acoustic Ibanez neck that I repaired . The headstock was fixed with titebond.

Should I keep the acetone away from the repair and just sand there or is titebond that awesome that it wont dissolve from the acetone?

While on the subject will the painters tape hold up against this stuff as well?

cjstcustom
July 14th, 2012, 02:03 PM
no, thats not me. i hired a hot chick to tape it off for me. haha

Keyser Soze
July 14th, 2012, 02:08 PM
Polyvinyl acetate is soluble in acetone. Keep those two far away from each other.

cjstcustom
July 14th, 2012, 02:22 PM
thanks

my titebond bottles lack ingredients.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate

this helped me understand what you said.

TeleAnon
July 14th, 2012, 02:30 PM
When you can't find the ingredients, google the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) of the product.

Example: http://www.titebond.com/ProductMSDSCO.php

cjstcustom
July 14th, 2012, 02:39 PM
When you can't find the ingredients, google the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) of the product.

Example: http://www.titebond.com/ProductMSDSCO.php

very nice, thanks for the tip!

Colt W. Knight
July 14th, 2012, 04:04 PM
Painters tape wont hold up to acetone either.

cjstcustom
July 14th, 2012, 04:32 PM
dang, what should i use?

Keyser Soze
July 15th, 2012, 01:48 PM
The safest option would be to use abrasives and patience, especially near any binding or glue joints..

You can still use acetone, but you would need to apply it very delicately. Not so much to dissolve the old finish but to soften it and allow you to scrap most off with a dull blade. Followed by fine sanding.

If you go that route don't even use tape because it will tend to wick and liquid and also hide whatever is happening behind it.

cjstcustom
July 16th, 2012, 05:56 PM
The safest option would be to use abrasives and patience, especially near any binding or glue joints..

You can still use acetone, but you would need to apply it very delicately. Not so much to dissolve the old finish but to soften it and allow you to scrap most off with a dull blade. Followed by fine sanding.

If you go that route don't even use tape because it will tend to wick and liquid and also hide whatever is happening behind it.

Hey, thanks alot. This sounds like a good plan to me. I'm glad I halted and consulted before I started slappin and sprayin acetone around like a neanderthal.

Another idea I was thinking about was sanding the neck and headstock smooth, not to bare wood just uniform. Then spray flat black and hit with a few clear coats. is there any reason chemically that I shouldn't do that?

jstream
July 19th, 2012, 12:15 PM
I seem to be recommending it alot lately, but Zip Strip (Marine formula) will not affect titebond, is easy to use, non-flammable, and cleans with water. You may need to apply and scrape several times, and use a small (brass) wire brush to clean out the grain, but this stuff works great, and is super easy.

cjstcustom
July 19th, 2012, 05:41 PM
thank you very much for the tip, i'll look into it.