5e3/5f1 question

My dad has a crappy peavey backstage. If i got the boothill kit, could i strip it down to just the cabinet and use that for the amp?

Also, for my first build should I try a 5f1 or 5e3? I'm looking for a quieter amp that I could use to play coffee shop gigs, but if a 5e3 is a big improvement over a 5f1, I would go for that

Also, for my first build should I try a 5f1 or 5e3? I'm looking for a quieter amp that I could use to play coffee shop gigs, but if a 5e3 is a big improvement over a 5f1, I would go for that

If it's going to be your "first" build, as in the first of many, the 5F1 could be great. I have one of hackworth1's Champs and I LOVE it.

But... if medium-sized gigging were in my mind, I might start with the 5E3. I'm able to mic my Champ, so I'm all set. If I were going to use the amp alone, I might want the 5E3. Part of it is increased wattage, part bigger speaker; they add up to a bigger sound.

Could be difficult to get a 5E3 Chassis to fit the Peavey Cabinet. Perhaps impossible to do and have it look right. Maybe possible with a lot of work and recovering. Check out some threads on this site to familiarize yourself with the orientation of the 5E3 Chassis as it relates to its cabinet. Is the Peavey laid out the same way? Here's the chassis dimensions:

14 1/2" L x 4 1/8" W x 2 5/8"

Could be difficult to get a 5E3 Chassis to fit the Peavey Cabinet. Perhaps impossible to do and have it look right. Maybe possible with a lot of work and recovering. Check out some threads on this site to familiarize yourself with the orientation of the 5E3 Chassis as it relates to its cabinet. Is the Peavey laid out the same way? Here's the chassis dimensions:

14 1/2" L x 4 1/8" W x 2 5/8"

yeah you're right. I think I'm gonna do the 5f1. but am I going to be able to use the peavey cab??

yeah you're right. I think I'm gonna do the 5f1. but am I going to be able to use the peavey cab??

I don't know... Your gonna really have to demonstrate some good modding skills to make that happen and look good. Good luck though!!

yeah you're right. I think I'm gonna do the 5f1. but am I going to be able to use the peavey cab??

If your's is the 10W w/6.5" speaker, even a 5F1 just plain won't fit. A very talented modder might be able to fit the chassis in, but the tubes 'dangling down' would certainly hit the speaker, and just about any alternative speaker. After all that work, it's probably faster to just build a little pine box.

There are some folks here that make gorgeous cabs with myriad beautiful joints and tweed and tolex, but even a simple box with quality plywood and well-glued joints will do the job. Make it big enough for a 10" speaker and you will have quite a bit of volume on tap. Weber's 10" Sig series is very reasonably-priced, and matches the circuit's paremeters quite well. With transformers and tubes and speaker and plywood, you might get it together for less than $400, and it will be something to be proud of. And it will sound great! (Scroungers can do it for less, but that takes time and effort and knowledge, which come a bit later :wink:)

Take your time, buy what you need when you need it. Folks here can give you a purchase 'timeline' that will spread out the cost over a month or so, and honestly it takes that long to do a good job without freaking out or rushing into an accident.

HAVE FUN!! :grin:

charisjapan

If your's is the 10W w/6.5" speaker, even a 5F1 just plain won't fit. A very talented modder might be able to fit the chassis in, but the tubes 'dangling down' would certainly hit the speaker, and just about any alternative speaker. After all that work, it's probably faster to just build a little pine box.

There are some folks here that make gorgeous cabs with myriad beautiful joints and tweed and tolex, but even a simple box with quality plywood and well-glued joints will do the job. Make it big enough for a 10" speaker and you will have quite a bit of volume on tap. Weber's 10" Sig series is very reasonably-priced, and matches the circuit's paremeters quite well. With transformers and tubes and speaker and plywood, you might get it together for less than $400, and it will be something to be proud of. And it will sound great! (Scroungers can do it for less, but that takes time and effort and knowledge, which come a bit later :wink:)

Take your time, buy what you need when you need it. Folks here can give you a purchase 'timeline' that will spread out the cost over a month or so, and honestly it takes that long to do a good job without freaking out or rushing into an accident.

HAVE FUN!! :grin:

charisjapan

it's the 80 watt

it's the 80 watt

Could work! But as Andy said, your skills to get it in there and look good will be tested! I put an AA764 Vibro Champ kit into a combo cab similar to that, and it works... but looks like a cheap, beat up combo amp. And the speakers are not worthy. I'm re-building the whole thing now, so it looks as good as it sounds.

So most everything I said, I still say... :wink:

But whatever you decide, Shock Bros. will help you get it sounding good! :grin:

How about converting a champ 600? I would need a new OT since I would be adding a rectifier tube but I think I read somewhere that Dave said you can use the existing transformer and use a diode instead of the tube, and that it wouldn't make much of a sonic difference because of the low wattage????

My philosophy is don't build anything you can't hock. You're not talkin' a lotta money between a Boot Hill kit, some transformers and a cabinet.

I see this sort of thing all the time with hot rods. My buddy wants a '64 Mustang but he has a '64 Mercedes. He now has a '64 Mercedes with a 289 Ford in it. It's flat black of course. He loves it. It would be a different story if he wanted to sell it. The Mercedes guys wouldn't touch it because it isn't rare or valuable and besides, it's been messed with. The Ford guys wouldn't touch it because the only Ford parts in it are the motor and transmission.

Another perspective: Vintage Fenders are masterpieces of industrial design. The Tele dates back to '49, the Strat to '54. Tweed amps are still useful today although music is very different from the '50s. How many things can you point to that work as well now as they did then?

If you have to end up buying/building a new cab then the 5E3 might be the better contender. I am in the process of building mine now and the 5E3 has "more" parts to solder but there is alot of room in the chassis to work where the 5f1 looks pretty tight.


When I build pedals for people I typically charge a little more for the 1590A (super-small enclosure i.e. Xotic EP Booster) than I do for a larger enclosure builds just because of the tighter space. I imagine the 5f1 may be a more difficult build than the 5E3 for this reason?

Anyway good luck and I am sure whatever you choose and build will be a proud accomplishment.

Your point about very small boxes for effects circuits is understood. Comparing the interior space of the 5E3 with the 5F1 Chassis - as it relates to ease of assembly - is not a big issue.

The boards are sized to fit their respective chassis. The depth and width of the chassis are exactly the same. The length is different, of course.

It is not hard for the average person to get their hands in there - in as much as that is necessary to execute (not electrocute) the various assembly procedures.

Both models are excellent. Either kit, when assembled with due care, will produce a fine example of its predecessor.

The customer must decide which kit he wants to build based on other criteria which is more relevant. Cost, Need, Utility, Size, Ability, Skill Level.

For a first build, I recommend the 5F1. The skill level of most (not all) first builders is better suited to the smaller amp with fewer parts and fewer solder joints.

Just one cold joint marks the difference between funcion and no sirve.

Your point about very small boxes for effects circuits is understood. Comparing the interior space of the 5E3 with the 5F1 Chassis - as it relates to ease of assembly - is not a big issue.

The boards are sized to fit their respective chassis. The depth and width of the chassis are exactly the same. The length is different, of course.

It is not hard for the average person to get their hands in there - in as much as that is necessary to execute (not electrocute) the various assembly procedures.

Both models are excellent. Either kit, when assembled with due care, will produce a fine example of its predecessor.

The customer must decide which kit he wants to build based on other criteria which is more relevant. Cost, Need, Utility, Size, Ability, Skill Level.

For a first build, I recommend the 5F1. The skill level of most (not all) first builders is better suited to the smaller amp with fewer parts and fewer solder joints.

Just one cold joint marks the difference between funcion and no sirve.

Well said.

It's true that a 5F1 chassis might be a bit tighter in the corners, but it makes up for that in relative lack of complexity. Way before I came to Shock Bros. I decided to put a Vibro Champ in an existing combo, including cutting chassis for PT and sockets. Man, that was a trial by fire! I came pretty close to chucking the amp build thing altogether. :cry: You guys helped me get through the crisis, and now I've got a bit more experience and even knowledge! :neutral:

As to whether you need a 5E3, I'm not sure how big coffee shops are where you live, or if the customers are going to be listening to music or just want live music in the background. If they want to hear a somewhat raw guitar sound and forego conversation, definitely a 5E3! If they want to have (from a customer's POV) pleasant background music, 5W and a bit more subdued circuit (like a AA764 Blackface or even a 5F2) with a 10" speaker would probably get them to ask you to come back. :wink:

Decisions, decisions! :confused:

charisjapan

I tried my 5e3 in a coffee house and i couldn't turn it up anywhere near the tone zone, even for juicy grit.

My philosophy is don't build anything you can't hock. You're not talkin' a lotta money between a Boot Hill kit, some transformers and a cabinet.

I see this sort of thing all the time with hot rods. My buddy wants a '64 Mustang but he has a '64 Mercedes. He now has a '64 Mercedes with a 289 Ford in it. It's flat black of course. He loves it. It would be a different story if he wanted to sell it. The Mercedes guys wouldn't touch it because it isn't rare or valuable and besides, it's been messed with. The Ford guys wouldn't touch it because the only Ford parts in it are the motor and transmission.

Another perspective: Vintage Fenders are masterpieces of industrial design. The Tele dates back to '49, the Strat to '54. Tweed amps are still useful today although music is very different from the '50s. How many things can you point to that work as well now as they did then?

I am with muchxs on this. Many that build their own build because that is what they like to do. A kit is a great way to get started. You may be able to mod the Peavey cabinet to work but if you have the ability to do it right, you can make the proper cabinet from scratch.

Which Backstage is is it ?.I have an eighties Backstage 20 thats built like a brick you know what with a 10"" speaker thats been changed out to a Emmy 105 .I use it as a cab only now although the amp its self is still useable and not too bad sounding if the correct dial in procedure is followed.I will probably make a head cabinet for my boothill 5f1 and use the backstage as my cab .I did already used it with my Blackstar HT5 and my Mustang 1 modded out with an external speaker switchable jack socket .