Help with wood stain and Tru-oil

Hi, I may be being a bit lazy - I've done a brief search but haven't really found what I need to know.

I'm putting together a 69 Thinline for my daughters birthday present - she's got dyed cherry-red hair so I thought it would be nice to make the guitar the same colour.

Time is an issue so I havent got time to finish the guitar with nitro as I have done in the past. I finished an SG copy in Tru-Oil a few months back and was very pleased with the results - what's more it was very quick and easy.

So, the body is coming soon - it's red alder - and I've found a spirit based wood stain that is pretty near as dammit the right colour.

So - any thoughts on application? Will I need to grain-fill first before applying the stain? Whats the best method of applying the stain and do I need to sand the stain back at all to even out the finish? I have done a few tests with the stain one with brushing it on and one sponging it on but the coverage is slightly uneven - maybe I'm just cack-handed

And can I just apply the Tru-Oil straight on top of the stain? I realise it may darken the original colour somewhat.

Thanks in anticipation.

What is "spirit based" in American? Alder doesn't usually need grain filling. Maybe using a Preval or air brush would give you a more even result with the stain. I don't know what you have available where you are.

White spirit I guess - I just googled "white spirit in American" and it came up with Stoddard Solvent - does that make sense?

Yes, I've got a small compressor and spray gun, I'll give it a go. Thanks for the reply, good to know I wont have to grain-fill.

White spirit I guess - I just googled "white spirit in American" and it came up with Stoddard Solvent - does that make sense?

Yes, I've got a small compressor and spray gun, I'll give it a go. Thanks for the reply, good to know I wont have to grain-fill.
OK, just googled "Stoddard Solvent", which appears to be mineral spirits, which I believe is the solvent in Tru Oil, so they should play nice together. I've never used stain on bare wood, but have read that wiping or brushing on can have uneven results, since even close grained wood will suck up stain inconsistently, resulting in uneven or blotchy results. You might want to even consider a wash coat of shellac before spraying the stain. Good Luck

You will really need to let that TruOil dry overnight between coats, so you might be waiting quite a while depending on how many coats you planning on. I used it on my first build thinking I could shave some time off the finishing stage. Not as long as nitro, but still takes awhile. Also, a caveat. I was told to use 0000 steel wool every 3rd or 4th coat to smooth it out. I had a heck of a time getting all those little bits of steel wool out before I could apply the next coat.

Mike

3M makes some micro-mesh (micro fiber), I can't remember the exact name, pads that do what steel wool does, with no metal shards getting into everything. The white one is equivalent to 0000 steel wool. You might have to go to an auto paint supply store to find the white ones.

OK, just googled "Stoddard Solvent", which appears to be mineral spirits, which I believe is the solvent in Tru Oil, so they should play nice together. I've never used stain on bare wood, but have read that wiping or brushing on can have uneven results, since even close grained wood will suck up stain inconsistently, resulting in uneven or blotchy results. You might want to even consider a wash coat of shellac before spraying the stain. Good Luck

Just read up on shellac - looks like just the ticket, have just ordered a small bag of super blonde de-waxed shellac... Thanks for the tip

You will really need to let that TruOil dry overnight between coats, so you might be waiting quite a while depending on how many coats you planning on. I used it on my first build thinking I could shave some time off the finishing stage. Not as long as nitro, but still takes awhile.

Mike

I hear you, I've done a guitar in Tru-Oil in about a week and was very happy with the finish. That I can deal with.... Nitro on the other hand.... Well I've been near tears at times with the sheer injustice of it all. It's worth the grief, but it needs a lot of patience (which I'm not good at) - and the weather we've been having in the UK doesn't help - wettest June in 100 years...

3M makes some micro-mesh (micro fiber), I can't remember the exact name, pads that do what steel wool does, with no metal shards getting into everything. The white one is equivalent to 0000 steel wool. You might have to go to an auto paint supply store to find the white ones.

You can get them thru ACE Hardware Stores. HD or Lowe's don't carry them but ACE does. They last much longer than a steel wool would, and no shards.

Thanks for all the tips guys - the guitar is finished, if you're interested you can read a post and pics of it here

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-discussion-forum/343038-new-build-day-ellacaster.html

While not exact...this is something very similar...cherry red stain, with spray shellac sealer, then Minwax wipe on poly.

Sand the body as level as you can get it. After you apply your stain, you can knock down the grain a little, but anymore and you'll remove stain. Just spray on enough shellac layers to level (with sanding of course), then wipe on your poly. If you do a good job of leveling your shellac, the poly will be a dazzling gloss.

Here's the finish on this guitar (which was initially lacquer, then sanded down to shellac and re-topped with Minwax wipe on poly. The poor quality Rustoleum lacquer never fully hardened.

Hi, I may be being a bit lazy - I've done a brief search but haven't really found what I need to know.

I'm putting together a 69 Thinline for my daughters birthday present - she's got dyed cherry-red hair so I thought it would be nice to make the guitar the same colour.

Time is an issue so I havent got time to finish the guitar with nitro as I have done in the past. I finished an SG copy in Tru-Oil a few months back and was very pleased with the results - what's more it was very quick and easy.

So, the body is coming soon - it's red alder - and I've found a spirit based wood stain that is pretty near as dammit the right colour.

So - any thoughts on application? Will I need to grain-fill first before applying the stain? Whats the best method of applying the stain and do I need to sand the stain back at all to even out the finish? I have done a few tests with the stain one with brushing it on and one sponging it on but the coverage is slightly uneven - maybe I'm just cack-handed

And can I just apply the Tru-Oil straight on top of the stain? I realise it may darken the original colour somewhat.

Thanks in anticipation.

White spirit I guess - I just googled "white spirit in American" and it came up with Stoddard Solvent - does that make sense?

Yes, I've got a small compressor and spray gun, I'll give it a go. Thanks for the reply, good to know I wont have to grain-fill.

Hi. could you please tell me if I can put tru oil on a sayerlack stain? Or it's better to cover with shellac and then put tru oil? Thank you!