Russian Big Muff stomp switch acting up, good replacement? [Archive]

11 Gauge

June 18th, 2012, 08:24 AM

This is the last Russian version that was made. It has a switch made in Mexico that is acting up. I do not see a way to take it apart for cleaning, what replacement switch would you suggest?

Is it still the same "big" diameter as the earlier MIR ones? With the "chrome dome" top?

If so, you will need a washer to get a standard sized switch mounted. Just a garden variety washer that will allow a ~.5"/13mm shaft through. I attached one inside the box with some JB Weld, and it's been holding fast for probably 7 or more years now.

As for a replacement switch, if you just want DPDT (assuming those weren't true bypass either), my favorite is this one:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=23

IDK who other than Small Bear would have it if you want it from another source.

It is a great switch IMO - sturdy, good mechanism. The solder lugs are tiny, but if this is a one shot deal, worth the slight aggravation. If you've ever dealt with toggle switch lugs, it should not be a problem.

If you are rewiring for true bypass, I tend to prefer the 4Site version of the "Taiwan blue 3PDT," and you can get it from different sources. Direct thru 4Site requires a minimum bulk order. The mechanical action on the 4Site switch is softer, and from my testing, it seems that they will last longer than similar switches. They also tend to be the most quiet when it comes to popping, but that also requires that you have a proper pull-down resistor on the input, especially with something like a Big Muff. The stock MIR's don't have that, so you would need to add one. It is simply something like a 2.2Meg resistor from the input to ground. Some folks put it right between the "effect in" lug of the switch and the nearest ground, but I prefer to get it as close to the input cap as possible.

Good luck!

BTW - I would suggest avoiding the "X-wing" style DPDT switches. Not very durable in most folks experiences. The lugs are also VERY thick, so people tend to crank up the temp on their soldering stations, and the lugs can melt right out of the switche's cast plastic housing! :shock: I've had ONE last for about 3 years now, but it got soldered in (at the proper temp) once, and hasn't been touched since. the pedal also sees light usage.

Also, you can still get the old Carling-type unit that was in wahs, MXR's, etc., but the above link to the newer Alpha unit is for a cheaper switch with (IMO) an improved mechanical design. I'd save the Carling for old wah repairs, personally.


	Telecaster Guitar Forum > Other Discussion Forums > The Stomp Box > Russian Big Muff stomp switch acting up, good replacement? PDA Russian Big Muff stomp switch acting up, good replacement? Robster June 17th, 2012, 09:07 PM This is the last Russian version that was made. It has a switch made in Mexico that is acting up. I do not see a way to take it apart for cleaning, what replacement switch would you suggest? 11 Gauge June 18th, 2012, 08:24 AM This is the last Russian version that was made. It has a switch made in Mexico that is acting up. I do not see a way to take it apart for cleaning, what replacement switch would you suggest? Is it still the same "big" diameter as the earlier MIR ones? With the "chrome dome" top? If so, you will need a washer to get a standard sized switch mounted. Just a garden variety washer that will allow a ~.5"/13mm shaft through. I attached one inside the box with some JB Weld, and it's been holding fast for probably 7 or more years now. As for a replacement switch, if you just want DPDT (assuming those weren't true bypass either), my favorite is this one: http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=23 IDK who other than Small Bear would have it if you want it from another source. It is a great switch IMO - sturdy, good mechanism. The solder lugs are tiny, but if this is a one shot deal, worth the slight aggravation. If you've ever dealt with toggle switch lugs, it should not be a problem. If you are rewiring for true bypass, I tend to prefer the 4Site version of the "Taiwan blue 3PDT," and you can get it from different sources. Direct thru 4Site requires a minimum bulk order. The mechanical action on the 4Site switch is softer, and from my testing, it seems that they will last longer than similar switches. They also tend to be the most quiet when it comes to popping, but that also requires that you have a proper pull-down resistor on the input, especially with something like a Big Muff. The stock MIR's don't have that, so you would need to add one. It is simply something like a 2.2Meg resistor from the input to ground. Some folks put it right between the "effect in" lug of the switch and the nearest ground, but I prefer to get it as close to the input cap as possible. Good luck! BTW - I would suggest avoiding the "X-wing" style DPDT switches. Not very durable in most folks experiences. The lugs are also VERY thick, so people tend to crank up the temp on their soldering stations, and the lugs can melt right out of the switche's cast plastic housing! :shock: I've had ONE last for about 3 years now, but it got soldered in (at the proper temp) once, and hasn't been touched since. the pedal also sees light usage. Also, you can still get the old Carling-type unit that was in wahs, MXR's, etc., but the above link to the newer Alpha unit is for a cheaper switch with (IMO) an improved mechanical design. I'd save the Carling for old wah repairs, personally. 11 Gauge June 18th, 2012, 08:34 AM http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=23 IDK who other than Small Bear would have it if you want it from another source. Mouser has the new one in RoHS: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/SF12020-0202-20R-L/ProductDetail.aspx?R=107-SF12020F-L ...but the price is higher, and the shipping will be more, so it would only be worth your trouble if you were going to order some other stuff, IMO.