Danish Oil Finishes

My first Tele got sent to Avalon Guitars for a lacquer finish due to a misunderstanding, which will be expensive enough, especially considering that I don't feel that the quality of the body justified the expensive finish. I was going to go Danish Oil as I could do it at home and it's easy (and cheap), but my tutor pseudo-persuaded me otherwise.

However, I aim to do the next build with it, and was wondering if any lovely members had any pictures of their Danish Oil-finished Teles that they were willing to share and what technique they used? Some folk like more coats than others, some use 0000 wool, some wet sand...I think it would be a nice help to me and others to see how they turned out!

I love Danish Oil.
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After trying both single light coats and triple heavy coats, I think the best method for me is to just coat to color, and then follow up with Minwax Wipe-On Poly 3 days later. On mahogany, a first coat of Natural (especially in the end grain) followed up with a coat of Dark Walnut really brings the wood to life (visually). I also find Golden Oak, followed up with some paste wax, to be wonderful for maple necks.

Cheers!

"Golden Oak" is indeed wonderful for maple necks. The "Light Walnut" and "Cherry" are great for Mahogany.

I like it as a grain filler and stain for Mahogany. Wet sand it in starting with 320 grit followed by 400 and 600. Follow up with Tru Oil and its an awesome finish you can apply without spray equipment.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/398807_10101424803264680_867419299_n.jpg

This body was stained/grain filled by sanding in "Light Walnut" Danish Oil, followed by 6 or 8 coats of Tru-Oil thinned with an equal part ratio of lacquer thinner. I haven't done anything to polish or buff it yet.

After trying both single light coats and triple heavy coats, I think the best method for me is to just coat to color, and then follow up with Minwax Wipe-On Poly 3 days later. On mahogany, a first coat of Natural (especially in the end grain) followed up with a coat of Dark Walnut really brings the wood to life (visually). I also find Golden Oak, followed up with some paste wax, to be wonderful for maple necks.

Cheers!

Very nice! What do you use to apply it?

I love the Natural flavor for maple necks. After trying a few different ways my favorite recipe is to sand carefully through 320 (raising the grain at each grit, and don't skip any grits...120, 150/180, 220, 320) then just one saturating coat (keep it wet for a few minutes, adding as need be, using a small disposable brush to apply) then wipe it all down and let it dry for a few days. Wipe it again, then follow that with some light applications of Howard's Feed N' Wax. I haven't tried this on a body but I can't see why it wouldn't work.

I've read that some people like lots of applications, sometimes even several heavy coats. I've tried that and didn't like the results. The wood takes on an oddly spongy look and feel. Almost like it's wet with water and never "dries" out (even though it is actually dry). That's why I pared it down to just one coat.

I think the problem with the one coat approach is a matter of protection. I think you would need to periodically apply the feed n' wax and/or possibly additional thin coats of the danish oil, over time, to maintain a certain level of protection from moisture.

I've found Danish Oil a doddle to apply (as a school Tech teacher it is the go-to finish for my kids) and remarkably durable, as well as being easily repairable. I tend to sand through the grades to 400, tack off any dust then apply initially enough to visibly wet the surface with a folded square of old t-shirt. A minute or two after I wipe any excess off along the grain. I apply two coats a day, morning and evening. After the first coat subsequent coats are applied in the same way but making sure the layer doesn't soak the surface, then wipe off the excess again. I apply five coats, then leave for a day or so and apply Renaissance wax sparingly with some OOOOO steel wool. This gives a lovely satin sheen and a great playing surface for the back of the neck. The Explorer below is 20 years old. is well looked after but well played, and the finish to me just gets better as it's handled. There are a few ways to apply the stuff as this thread already shows (a mate of mine wet sands in the last couple of coats with 600 w&d so the slurry fills the grain which works really well if you don't want the open-grained look), nut this method is my fave.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5149/5658206416_5f3b12741a_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theguitarsmith/5658206416/)
Explorer - ready for pimping. (http://www.flickr.com/photos/theguitarsmith/5658206416/) by The Guitarsmith (http://www.flickr.com/people/theguitarsmith/), on Flickr

Danish oil is nothing more than thinner, some long-oil (like boiled linseed oil) and a bit of oil-based varnish. You can make your own or buy the pre-packaged product like Watco's. Flood on, wait a few minutes, then wipe off the excess and PROPERLY let the rags dry out (they will combust if rolled up in a ball). Repeat as desired.

You'll probably have to periodically reapply, maybe once a year or so depending on how heavily you use it, but it has a nice look to the wood. Not the best protection though.

My walnut tele from last year's challenge was done this way with my own mixture. I like to apply it with a super-fine scotchbrite pad (I avoid steel wool in my shop as much as possible), really rubbing it in which helps with a little pore filling and gives a super smooth, baby-butt finish. Let it dry for a few minutes, and wipe off the excess. Repeat. I can't recall how many times I did this, maybe 4-5. I've always preferred guitars where you can see the wood to the typical lacquered guitars. And since few guitar makers do finishes this way, making my own seemed the best way to own such a guitar.

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Very nice! What do you use to apply it?

Thanks!
I used a foam brush for the heavier coats. The heavy coats do eventually get hard, but the oil keeps seeping out for a day or two, which gets especially irritating as it beads up on the end grain.

For the lighter coats, I just used an old t-shirt.

I'm another big fan of Danish Oil. Not only for the simplicity though. It is the way it feels under the hand that keeps it in #1 position for me...

The best tip for getting a good deep finish is, for the first couple of coats, make sure everything is as warm as possible, so the oil soaks in well. After that I build up the coats gradually, applying it with a clean well-worn green plastic dishwash scouring pad (mildly abrasive, holds oil and doesn't leave anything behind in the finish). Last couple of coats go on with a lint free cloth.

http://damacleod.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/jazzmasterfinished01.jpg

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http://damacleod.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/bass_finished04.jpg

http://damacleod.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/strateledone2.jpg

I'm another big fan of Danish Oil. Not only for the simplicity though. It is the way it feels under the hand that keeps it in #1 position for me...

The best tip for getting a good deep finish is, for the first couple of coats, make sure everything is as warm as possible, so the oil soaks in well. After that I build up the coats gradually, applying it with a clean well-worn green plastic dishwash scouring pad (mildly abrasive, holds oil and doesn't leave anything behind in the finish). Last couple of coats go on with a lint free cloth.

So many pretty guitars...gutted now I was persuaded to get mine lacquered.

What grit do you sand up to before applying, and do you sand between coats? Did you use anything to buff up the last coat like steel wool?

So many pretty guitars...gutted now I was persuaded to get mine lacquered.

What grit do you sand up to before applying, and do you sand between coats? Did you use anything to buff up the last coat like steel wool?
Thanks. 320 or 400 grit before applying. No sanding between coats although I use a mildly abrasive pad for applying the oil until the last couple of coats when I use a lint free rag. Keeping the oil, applicator and guitar warm is the key. I lock myself away in my man-cave and turn the heating up full. No buffing, just a rub down with a good beeswax polish.