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Reassembly Sequence

robert spencer
June 14th, 2012, 03:09 PM
I`m getting ready to reassemble the Pbass clone after a refinish & since this is a first time for this I am wondering what might be the most orderly sequence to follow. Should i load the pickguard and install electronics first or begin with installing neck & bridge. Or does it actually matter?

Thanks & take care. Bob

Immo
June 14th, 2012, 03:18 PM
I'd start with the 'body features', then the intestines. The reason is simple: You'll install a loaded pickguard, grab the neck to install it and suddenly make a bad move and the pickguard is broken/scratched or the electronics broken. Always start with the bulky stuff, just for safety.
Body to neck, then hardware, then pickguard with electronics, then strings.

PinewoodRo
June 14th, 2012, 03:20 PM
+1

robert spencer
June 14th, 2012, 04:22 PM
Thanks guys. I guess I just needed some guidance. I will be surprised if there will not going to be a heck of a lot more questions before it`s over.

Immo I finally figured out the double strap button we talked about awhile back on the G&L ASAT basses. The top button is for the strap. The lower button is used to hang a bag of marbles off the back. No Neck Dive!

Seriously i just picked up a 34" defretted Jazz neck and am going to put it on the upcoming Tele thinline project body just to buy time while working on the short scale neck that came with that body. If I like it I will keep it but if not I will try to find a J or P (preferably Jazz) body to use it with. It will also allow me to test the B*E*A*D tuning. And try my bag of marbles concept. Take care. Bob

PinewoodRo
June 14th, 2012, 04:44 PM
Stick some lead in the control pot cavity?

robert spencer
June 14th, 2012, 05:25 PM
PinewoodRo I will work on the counter balance trying to find a removable solution remembering that the long scale is only temporary while addressing issues on the short scale neck, unless I really like the combination. That seems very unlikely but stranger things have happened. Take care. Bob

Immo
June 14th, 2012, 05:35 PM
Bob, but remember that different scale lengths mean different bridge placements! You may want to avoid too much drilling...

robert spencer
June 14th, 2012, 06:07 PM
Good point Immo. I thought about tbridge placement but not about the extra holes. Oh well I will get the P clone done then worry about the ext one at that time. I seem to change my mind a lot. Take care. Bob

Immo
June 14th, 2012, 06:24 PM
Maybe you'll be able to find a "mobile" bridge, like those for acoustic basses.

robert spencer
June 14th, 2012, 06:36 PM
Good idea Immo. I`ll check that out. Do you mean a floating bridge like this one:

http://northland.smugmug.com/Music/Bass/i-BfWXbsD/0/M/m12P1070320-M.jpg
I think that the two inches difference in the bridge holes can be placed under a JBass bridge cover (they are deep) where it would be out of sight & out of mind. Anyway no one will ever see it but me. I only play at home and then with no one in the room. This is the neck http://northland.smugmug.com/Music/Bass/i-ZCDDdmg/0/M/j10photo5-M.jpg

Take care. Bob

robert spencer
June 15th, 2012, 04:11 PM
today I reinstalled the neck, strap buttons, and bridge, The third world PG had one hole that lined up so I made a tool to punch pilots into all the rest of the holes. That went oK but i was glad I didn`t have a loaded guard to contend with Now it can come off and get loaded ( no pun). Same thing on the bridge I mounted it in the old holes but with no ground running to it the removal of it will be needed again. So its kind of a mock up at this point. The neck went back on & lined up with the old holes again without a problem. After I get it strung I will have to take it lose slightly and adjust or straighten if needed. take care. Bob en it .