Thin line Top Question - Joining

Morning - I have my two halves of the maple top I purchased for my Thin Line. I plan on smoothing them on the connecting edge with my Jointer, and then gluing them up just like a regular body blank.

Is this correct?? Just want to be sure I'm not making a mistake on $80.00 worth of top wood!!

Thanks for your help!

you can join them with clamps just like a regular body, but I like to use the "masking tape" method.

Basically, you butt the pieces together and put masking tape along the seam. Then you fold it out using the masking tape as a "hinge". Put a bead of glue on the ends of the wood then fold it back together. Now suspend the piece between two risers of equal height (books, pieces of wood etc) with the seam in the middle, tape side down. Put s small weight on top in the middle. Gravity will pull the joint together.

Yep , clamps or the tape method that OpenG uses , both work .

You are right on track. I've seen plenty folks joint them together at the same time
they're gluing the top to the body too. As long as your seam is good and tight, you
won't have an issue.

Just be sure you get enough pressure.... glue works at the molecular level.. it's far more sophisticated than many know.... this is why, for instance, glue will not stick to some apparently obvious surfaces... the molecular bond cannot occur in those materials. Without enough pressure you just have a film of the dried glue making the joint... the glues we use for woodworking have very little strength, tensile or shear, when left to "make the joint" independent of the molecular connection.

There is an old adage in woodworking, "Gluing without clamping is a waste of time, glue, and wood."

Ron Kirn

I've never tried the tape method. I usually always made sure the joint was perfect and applied glue to the edge. I generally put a couple spring clamps on the ends to hold them together and then 3 clamps at the end,middle, and other end across both pieces of wood. When clamping, I try not use too much clamp pressure but enough so that I know they are together, I want to see glue squeeze out too. I've never had a problem with that method.

Thank you gentlemen as always !

this the way i do it after truing up the edges with the jointer

http://www.carltonguitars.com.au/resources/Image/batch_2010/taipan_top.jpg

http://www.carltonguitars.com.au/resources/Image/batch_2010/taipan_top2.jpg

http://www.carltonguitars.com.au/resources/Image/batch_2010/taipan_top3.jpg

pretty self explanatory
you will notice the board clamped to hold it steady and tight as you like - not too tight - you might need to belt down any high spots along the join with a rubber mallet very quickly before the glue really grabs tight - usually 15 seconds with titebond original
-
make sure the join has some foil over it on both sides so it don't stick
after the last step i put a big heavy piece of steel U beam on edge over the join and bricks on the outer edges to everything sitting flat

I've never tried the tape method. I usually always made sure the joint was perfect and applied glue to the edge. I generally put a couple spring clamps on the ends to hold them together and then 3 clamps at the end,middle, and other end across both pieces of wood. When clamping, I try not use too much clamp pressure but enough so that I know they are together, I want to see glue squeeze out too. I've never had a problem with that method.

That's the way I do it - I've found that the level of precision on the joint prep is what will get it to not have a line in the end. All I do to prep the boards is to cut then very square with a table saw then I just sand the 2 sides to be joined with a 120 grit sand paper glued to a flat block of marble - works great.

Hi All,

I think all the methods have merit. This is how I do it but Im not saying its the best it just suits the way I do it. I am usually using pieces that have a natural edge or are no square on the outer edge. The reason being is we sell wood for guitar sets and the stuff that can not be used for acoustics I use for bent side teles. The wood is structurally perfect but may not be big enough for acoustics or may have knots where a pickup rout or neck pocket is. This often leaves me with really figured pieces that are just right for a tele and are not straight on the outer sides.

I cut the pieces on a table saw on a sled. Then I sand on a shooting board and make sure there is no gaps. I use a board that is bowed up and 2 g clamps to hold one side down. I then clamp a couple of straight edges (if your board is square on the outside you could use just one long one) down and use small spruce wedges to push the second side flush with the one that is clamped. This gives just the right amount of pressure. I then use another board that is bowed and clamp this piece down and two pony clamps at each end to keep the centres from lifting. With the spruce wedges you can never get the joint to tight but it is still easily tight enough.

If you have bought a bookmatched top it usually would be fairly square on the outer edges so doing it this way may not be the best but if you have a piece with natural edge this is excellent.

I joint the edges then glue the two pieces to the body.
I never glue the two pieces together before gluing to the body.

this the way i do it after truing up the edges with the jointer

http://www.carltonguitars.com.au/resources/Image/batch_2010/taipan_top.jpg

http://www.carltonguitars.com.au/resources/Image/batch_2010/taipan_top2.jpg

http://www.carltonguitars.com.au/resources/Image/batch_2010/taipan_top3.jpg

pretty self explanatory
you will notice the board clamped to hold it steady and tight as you like - not too tight - you might need to belt down any high spots along the join with a rubber mallet very quickly before the glue really grabs tight - usually 15 seconds with titebond original
-
make sure the join has some foil over it on both sides so it don't stick
after the last step i put a big heavy piece of steel U beam on edge over the join and bricks on the outer edges to everything sitting flat

I've done this a few times with acoustic tops and backs. It works fine.