tweed_pro
June 3rd, 2012, 08:19 PM
So I'm planning on using this grounding scheme (from the Weber forums):
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7219/7331616842_e6a5d2c88a.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79889912@N03/7331616842/)
grounding_Scheme (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79889912@N03/7331616842/) by jwarkentin83 (http://www.flickr.com/people/79889912@N03/)
I have a fair amount of 14g copper wire that I can use. How do you guys attach the bare grounding wire to the chassis? Do you just drill a hole and bolt it down? Use adhesive tabs and strap the ground wire to them?
hackworth1
June 3rd, 2012, 09:21 PM
5E3, 5F1?
Bolting bus to the side wall (right hand end*) is easier. There is more space to work. The input jacks can be cramped in that area. Drill a hole and put a bolt through. (Solder a ring terminal to the end of the bus OR bend the bus wire in a nice tight circle. Always use star washers. These will bite into the metal chassis and lock down the nut.
Alternatively, you could use one input jack as a key grounding point. IN this case, solder the end of the bus to the ground solder tab on the jack. Upper right hand jack is most accessible. Either way is good. 1/4 inch jacks require a 3/8 inch star washer.
I refer to direction relative to the (customary) orientation of the Judge Steven sketch you have posted.
BTW, some feel that the isolation of jacks is overkill and unnecessary.
Speaker output jacks seem to do just fine grounded where they sit. (Some may accuse me of blasphemy for this statement).
tweed_pro
June 3rd, 2012, 11:36 PM
5E3, 5F1?
Bolting bus to the side wall (right hand end*) is easier. There is more space to work. The input jacks can be cramped in that area. Drill a hole and put a bolt through. (Solder a ring terminal to the end of the bus OR bend the bus wire in a nice tight circle. Always use star washers. These will bite into the metal chassis and lock down the nut.
Alternatively, you could use one input jack as a key grounding point. IN this case, solder the end of the bus to the ground solder tab on the jack. Upper right hand jack is most accessible. Either way is good. 1/4 inch jacks require a 3/8 inch star washer.
I refer to direction relative to the (customary) orientation of the Judge Steven sketch you have posted.
BTW, some feel that the isolation of jacks is overkill and unnecessary.
Speaker output jacks seem to do just fine grounded where they sit. (Some may accuse me of blasphemy for this statement).
It's your 5F1 kit. Soldering a ring terminal on both ends of the buss wire and bolting it through the chassis sounds like a good plan. Thanks!
hackworth1
June 4th, 2012, 12:26 AM
It's your 5F1 kit. Soldering a ring terminal on both ends of the buss wire and bolting it through the chassis sounds like a good plan. Thanks!
One end only.
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/shock-brothers-diy-amps/319205-ga-5-circuit-installed-boot-hill-amps-5f1-kit.html
tweed_pro
June 4th, 2012, 12:37 AM
Oh wow! Those pictures were exactly what I needed. Excellent!
I also just noticed the plastic spacers included with your kit (bottom of the bag). That takes care of isolating the board from the chassis quite nicely! It's all coming together.
tweed_pro
July 12th, 2012, 09:13 PM
Had a followup question - am I correct in having the common connection on the negative side of the 22uF/2x10uF going to the ground bus closest to the PT (terminated at the PT bolt), and every other ground connection being soldered to the second ground bus, which I'm terminating at the input jack?
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7219/7331616842_e6a5d2c88a.jpg
Theoretically I could just use the ground bus on the right side, and solder the common connection coming off of my HV capacitors to the PT bolt, right?