Spiral Up-Cut Bit is well worth the $$

I just received a RFT5200 SOLID CARBIDE 2 FLUTE UP-CUT SPIRAL FLUSH TRIM ROUTER BIT 1/2" Diameter X 2" CL X 1/2" SHANK. Purchased from Amazon, for those who have this bit, you know what I now know. Those that don't have this bit, I highly recommend purchasing. IT IS ALL THAT AND THEN SOME. Cuts Ash like a hot knife through butter.

IT IS ALL THAT AND THEN SOME.

+1

:shock:Looking forward to trialling mine out on next build. My challenge build was a bit interesting. At least I kept my fingers. :shock:

yes, it's a fantastic router bit!

Tangential question: Which is more desirable, up-cut or down-cut? (Seems to me a down-cut would tend keep a body blank down against the router table.)

When the router is mounted in a table it's upside down. Up-cut does pull the piece to the table.

Edit: Unless your talking about routing by hand, but even then, a down-cut bit will want to make the router lift.

Tangential question: Which is more desirable, up-cut or down-cut? (Seems to me a down-cut would tend keep a body blank down against the router table.)

I can honestly say I felt no upward movement. It just cut so well I was able to do all my jointing for 3 blanks in Ash with no issues. The control of the cut was the difference !

Either way, you'll want the up cut bit. Also, per Barncaster's experience during the challenge, be very sure to feed it in the right direction. Used properly, it's a dream tool, with no comparison. Feed it backwards, and like any router bit fed the wrong way, any number of things can happen, and none of them is good.

Either way, you'll want the up cut bit. Also, per Barncaster's experience during the challenge, be very sure to feed it in the right direction. Used properly, it's a dream tool, with no comparison. Feed it backwards, and like any router bit fed the wrong way, any number of things can happen, and none of them is good.

So we should use this to insure no tearout?

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/1375/1bodyrouting.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/695/1bodyrouting.jpg/)

So we should use this to insure no tearout?

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/1375/1bodyrouting.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/695/1bodyrouting.jpg/)

I tried that method but still got tearout. The key is a sharp bit and very light cuts. That's where a spindle sander comes in handy, sand as close to the line as you can.. If you try that method hold on tight cause the bit wants to shoot the body across the room.

I tried that method but still got tearout. The key is a sharp bit and very light cuts. That's where a spindle sander comes in handy, sand as close to the line as you can.. If you try that method hold on tight cause the bit wants to shoot the body across the room.

Your response is both a blessing and a curse. I did this exact pattern with bit that I purchased from LMII Flush trim router cutter 2" and i got Tear Out on the upper arm bout. Sharp bit less than a 1/16" cut s l o w l y and it still tore out? WTH? Thought I was doing something wrong.

Bump for UPS delivery status of "Left at door" - looking forward to trying mine out this week.

So we should use this to insure no tearout?

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/1375/1bodyrouting.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/695/1bodyrouting.jpg/)

I won't try this again. Taking a light cut the bit took the piece and jerked it. The result was worse tear out than before.

OK, so I give what pattern should one use?

OK, so I give what pattern should one use?

In my experience with the spiral upcut bit I always feed the work piece against the rotation of the bit , never with the rotation. I have never had any tearout problems , I also sand to the line and only am taking between 1/16 - 1/32 when I route .

In my experience with the spiral upcut bit I always feed the work piece against the rotation of the bit , never with the rotation. I have never had any tearout problems , I also sand to the line and only am taking between 1/16 - 1/32 when I route .


This!
And it doesn't hurt to use a starter pin to brace the material against before you begin the route.

In my experience with the spiral upcut bit I always feed the work piece against the rotation of the bit , never with the rotation. ...
Spiral bits love to grab your work and do nasty things if not fed right.

This!
And it doesn't hurt to use a starter pin to brace the material against before you begin the route.
A starter pin gives you more control and something to brace against as you gently guide the work into the the bit ... a good thing.

In my experience with the spiral upcut bit I always feed the work piece against the rotation of the bit , never with the rotation. I have never had any tearout problems , I also sand to the line and only am taking between 1/16 - 1/32 when I route .

No matter the grain? Or In addition to?

No matter the grain? Or In addition to?

Yep

Just in case you ever need to know . A down cut bit will have considerably less tendency to cause break out with fine work like acoustic rosettes .

Yep

Yep to both?

Sorry for being so dense.

To sum up Always route into the rotation of the bit. No matter the grain of the wood?

Just in case you ever need to know . A down cut bit will have considerably less tendency to cause break out with fine work like acoustic rosettes .

In the case of routing a rosette, you're cutting a dado and you want clean edges at the surface of the work, not ragged edges so yes a downshear cutter is best, even though it's cutting force lifts the router off the work.

When cutting the perimeter, a through cut, you should be using an upshear where the cutting force pulls the router base to the work.

To follow the Wells diagram is to climb cut certain areas, which if you're using traditional router bits and know what you're doing works well...It's SOP in the woodworking industry since forever...but if you're new to the work and are using spiral bits and aren't even sure if you should use up or down shear, you should just feed against the rotation, don't climb cut.

Yep to both?

Sorry for being so dense.

To sum up Always route into the rotation of the bit. No matter the grain of the wood?

With a 2" long spiral upcut bit that is what I do , when routing necks and bodies , and again , sanding to the line and not taking more than 1/16 (usually 1/32) , all of these methods depend on what bit you are using , technique , and preperation , as bullfrogblues mentioned a starter pin helps ease the work piece into the bit , experience is the biggest help , a firm grip and steady movement of the workpiece . The biggest help to stop tearout IMO weather using the spiral bits or a standard pattern bit is getting the body or neck down close enough to final shape that the router bit is just shaving off wood , like I said 1/16 to 1/32 , preferably closer to 1/32.
If you route with the rotation with that big spiral bit , regardless of the grain the chances of the body or neck being ripped out of your hands and turned into a projectile increase dramatically IMO.
Here are a few permalinks to threads where routing with the rotation and a spiral bit was used , pretty sobering .

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/2012-tdpri-tele-build-challenge/318075-barncasters-2012-challenge-build-thread-completed-3.html#post4052392

http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/241554-first-thinline-build-5.html#post3007244

Here's some pics of bodies and necks routed against the rotation with a spiral upcut bit

Figured maple neck

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/mahogany%20build/IMAG1002.jpg?t=1318099447

African Mahogany

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/mahogany%20build/IMAG0833.jpg?t=1316371438

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/mahogany%20build/IMAG0831.jpg?t=1316371415

American Black Walnut

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/2012%20build%20challenge/IMAG1931.jpg?t=1332017832

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/2012%20build%20challenge/IMAG1932.jpg?t=1332017851

Figured maple

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/2012%20build%20challenge/IMAG2048.jpg?t=1332615630

Another figured maple neck

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/p90%20build/101_0997.jpg?t=1303766147

Alder body

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/Paisley%20Build/IMAG0179.jpg?t=1309013605

Sugar Pine body

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz246/adirondak50/Snakehead/IMAG1556.jpg?t=1327190798

All these were routed against the rotation using a spiral upcut bit in the router table .

adirondak5 thanks !

Convinced, and understood. Luckily this is how I did use the bit to joint the Ash.