Danelectro style Tele Build

My recent (ill-timed) attempt at the 2012 Build Challenge
(located here (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/318172-sjohnbrutons-former-challenge-build.html)) was to be a hybrid of a Tele and several design elements of Danelectro guitars.

Ever since I played a copper colored Silvertone like this one

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/danelectro_u1_dolphin.jpg

I have wanted to own one. The guy who had it flat refused to sell it, by the way.

So, using Dano the style of construction of a plywood frame capped top and back with hardboard, like these,

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/danoproject1.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/IMG_1341.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/IMG_1344.jpg

my intent is to make a light weight, very resonant, mojo loaded, retro style, bad-ass of a Tele. :grin:

I want the hollow body, sound hole, and front pickup of the Convertible,

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/1965_Danelectro_Convertible.jpg

the pickguard of the 59,

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/danelectro-59-dc-bk-1.jpg

and the dolphin nose of the U series.

It also will have a Fender style nut in aluminum (like a Dano). Throw in some wide vinyl edge banding and the finished product will look very similar to this:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/Jonelectrov4side.jpg

The first step is the body.

Instead of using the cheapest available, I went "all-out" and bought a sheet of 1/2" Birch ply. I then cut this full sheet into fifteen 16x19 panels. Following the same process, I cut a sheet of 3/16" hardboard into the same size pieces.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je00.jpg

Once I had these panels, I face glued three of them together to get an over all thickness of 1.5" Sadly, my inexperience shined brightly and the resulting blank was badly warped due to crappy cauls...

The second attempt was successful when I realized I could screw the panels together since the ply core was not going to be visible in the finished product. I ended up with this:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je01.jpg

I then rough cut the blank to shape on my benchtop bandsaw.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je03.jpg

I bought my then 14 year old son a Danelectro re-issue U-2, Les Paul shape two p/ups, in the early 90'2. I play it now as part of my colection and won't part with it. Love those "lipstick p/up". Apparently Dan Erlewine collects the old ones and his Brown U-2 is his personal favourite. I'd love to get a double cutaway Like Jimmy page used. Good choice for a build sjohnbruton!

Next up - pattern routing!

Since the blank is too thick for my 1" bit, I need to do two passes. First up is the top-bearing-that-really-is-a-bottom-bearing-when-its-in-the-router-table bit:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je05.jpg

Then, flip and repeat with the opposite bit:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je06.jpg

Since I want a soundhole, I can't use a center block that extends from the neck pocket to the bridge. I do, however, want a bit more rigidity than the "island" bridge block of the Convertible. So, I decided to attach the island block to the frame with a narrow strip running from the end pin to the bridge.

To cut the inner cavity of the body, I first used several sizes of Forstner bits to drill out the inner corners of the pattern.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je07.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je08.jpg

I then played "connect the dots" with my jig saw.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je09.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je10.jpg

Here is the rough cut body core:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je11.jpg

I decided to leave enough material for a mild arm contour. Here she is after knocking off most of the interior saw marks with an 80 grit sanding drum.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je12.jpg

Ready for hardboard!

FYI: I can totally see why Danelectro used these materials and construction methods. Even upgrading to birch ply, I spent a total of $60 for the plywood and hardboard combined. When cut to 16x19 and processed into blanks, I will get 5 finished bodies and still have hardboard left over. That's only $12 a body!! Gotta love that. :cool:

I bought my then 14 year old son a Danelectro re-issue U-2, Les Paul shape two p/ups, in the early 90'2. I play it now as part of my colection and won't part with it. Love those "lipstick p/up". Apparently Dan Erlewine collects the old ones and his Brown U-2 is his personal favourite. I'd love to get a double cutaway Like Jimmy page used. Good choice for a build sjohnbruton!

Thanks, I hope it turns out half as cool as a real Dano! Those lipstick pups do sound great. For this one I'm sticking with Tele pups and electronics, though. Mostly because this is kind-of an experiment (prototype) and I already have the Tele setup. Oh, and I'm cheap, too! :wink:

I love it. The convertible sound hole will be aces.

You're making me itch to start a hollow-body build before I'm done with my current (maiden) solid body effort.

Dig the ply method, too!

Didn't Dano use pine instead of plywood for the center?

Maybe you need one of these for extra mojo?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Dan-Electro-Guitar-Neck-with-Fingerboard-Luthier-Poplar-Rosewood-/130517323557?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item1e63704f25

This will be a cool build to watch. I had intended to do a Dano-style build at some time but ended up forgoing the hardboard for plywood. Good luck on the rest of the build.

Guitarbuilder: that is some mojo right there! :mrgreen:

I did one of these last year (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/287765-dano-style-cutting-board-build.html)with a polycarbonate cutting board instead of a top layer of hardboard; they're a blast to make, and I'll echo what everyone else has said about the lipstick pup. It's my favorite pickup. The GFS low-output versions sound great, especially wired in series.

I hadn't thought of stacking plywood; I just pieced together offcuts of poplar, plus some mahogany (for the bridge island). Since they were all pieces I just had lying around, the body cost something like $28.

Nice build!

I love it. The convertible sound hole will be aces.

You're making me itch to start a hollow-body build before I'm done with my current (maiden) solid body effort.

Dig the ply method, too!

Thanks. I'm hoping it works out like I imagine... :lol:

Didn't Dano use pine instead of plywood for the center?

Honestly, I'm not entirely sure. Best I could figure out (without too much research), is that some were pine ply and some were pieces of solid pine. Truth is I don't really know.

Maybe you need one of these for extra mojo?

Cool! That would be pretty slick... I'm not sure about a 23.5" scale though. I've never heard of a Dano that short. Of course, what do I know? :confused:

This will be a cool build to watch. I had intended to do a Dano-style build at some time but ended up forgoing the hardboard for plywood. Good luck on the rest of the build.

Guitarbuilder: that is some mojo right there! :mrgreen:

Thanks, I'm gonna need the luck! And all the extra time I can find laying around. Too bad you can't but that on ebay...

I did one of these last year (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/287765-dano-style-cutting-board-build.html)with a polycarbonate cutting board instead of a top layer of hardboard; they're a blast to make, and I'll echo what everyone else has said about the lipstick pup. It's my favorite pickup. The GFS low-output versions sound great, especially wired in series.

I hadn't thought of stacking plywood; I just pieced together offcuts of poplar, plus some mahogany (for the bridge island). Since they were all pieces I just had lying around, the body cost something like $28.

Nice build!

Thanks. Sweet build, BTW. I love using out of the ordinary materials for stuff like this. What did you use for the edge banding? I think I saw you mention wallpaper? I've decided to go with vinyl shelf liner...

I'm definitely going lipstick on the next one. They are one of my faves, too! :wink:

Yeah, I just cut some wallpaper into strips. I found a sample that matched the off-white of the back; it had a nifty texture, too. Yellow glue and a coating of epoxy took care of it.

Love it so far.
I have had an similar idea, but you'rs better so i'll rip it, if thats OK with you.

Yeah, I just cut some wallpaper into strips. I found a sample that matched the off-white of the back; it had a nifty texture, too. Yellow glue and a coating of epoxy took care of it.

Nice idea. I'm hoping the vinyl won't require any top coat.

Love it so far.
I have had an similar idea, but you'rs better so i'll rip it, if thats OK with you.

I heard a quote once that went like this: "If you steal from me, you're stealing twice!" - No worries. :razz:

Cool project! As far as I know, the reissues are/were ply core, the originals several pieces of solid wood.

Didn't Dano use pine instead of plywood for the center?

I think they used Poplar...

I love this build. Very cool.

Cool! That would be pretty slick... I'm not sure about a 23.5" scale though. I've never heard of a Dano that short. Of course, what do I know? :confused:
If that's accurate, not many were. Most were 25" scale (Danelectro built) except for the original Pro, which was 21". FWIW, 23.5" is very playable and sounds cool with modern pups, but seeing your pup selection, 25.5 or 25 would be better. For those that have never tried one, a 25" scale is very versatile, just play a PRS sometime :wink:

I'm definitely going lipstick on the next one. They are one of my faves, too! :wink:
Here ya' go LINK (http://www.guitarfetish.com/Pro-Tube-Lipstick-Guitar-Pickups_c_110.html), the humbuckers are a gas. I wired them in series with a shorting switch for single-coil, then a single coil tube in the neck position for a friend's Squier 51.................I've been trying to buy it from him ever since :lol:

Loving this build!!

I have lipsticks and pots lol!

I really dig this mock-up. It's got me thinking... :wink:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/Jonelectrov4side.jpg

I'm following this with interest. It's never occurred to me to paint a fretboard, but after seeing your mockup I've got no idea why not...

The 25' scale is my favorite, BTW. I've used it on all my build except one.

Cool project! As far as I know, the reissues are/were ply core, the originals several pieces of solid wood.

Thanks. It seems they used whatever worked... My kind of build philosophy! :lol:

I think they used Poplar...

I love this build. Very cool.

Thank you.

If that's accurate, not many were. Most were 25" scale (Danelectro built) except for the original Pro, which was 21". FWIW, 23.5" is very playable and sounds cool with modern pups, but seeing your pup selection, 25.5 or 25 would be better. For those that have never tried one, a 25" scale is very versatile, just play a PRS sometime :wink:

Here ya' go LINK (http://www.guitarfetish.com/Pro-Tube-Lipstick-Guitar-Pickups_c_110.html), the humbuckers are a gas. I wired them in series with a shorting switch for single-coil, then a single coil tube in the neck position for a friend's Squier 51.................I've been trying to buy it from him ever since :lol:

I love the 25" scale. It is very versatile. I feel like it is easier to get Gibson-esque tones while still being able to achieve the spank of a Fender. My Carvin TL-60 is a 25" scale and is easily my all-time favorite axe.

I like the 24" shorter scale, too. Very easy to play...

Thanks for the link. I've seen those before, but it's good to hear a positive review. I'll have to give 'em a go soon. :grin:

Loving this build!!

Thanks.

I really dig this mock-up. It's got me thinking... :wink:

Thanks. Once I started piecing elements together in Gimp, it really took on its own direction. I'm pleased with the plan, now let's see if I can pull it off!

I'm following this with interest. It's never occurred to me to paint a fretboard, but after seeing your mockup I've got no idea why not...

The 25' scale is my favorite, BTW. I've used it on all my build except one.

Cool, Thanks. The painted fretboard idea came up during the Build Challenge because I was (and still am) interested in using oak for the neck and fretboard. I figured, I had it so I might as well use it. Anyway, I think sealer, pore filler, and color coat should make it look great. I love the visual effect of a fully colored guitar, too. I feel certain I will be doing some seafoam green in the near future... :razz:

Question for the group...

Anybody got any good ideas for non-traditional, hardware store-type material for a white pickguard??

In keeping with using cheap, readily available materials for this build (such as plywood, masonite, oak, and vinyl shelf liner) I want to make the pickguard out of something besides Stew-Mac stock. I've looked at poly-wall (too floppy), plastic storage box tops, and even a drip pan for a dish washer. The closest thing I have found is white plastic rain gutter, but it's too small to get a pickguard from. :cry:

Hobby shops often sell sheet polystyrene for modelers who like to make their own additions to plane and tank models... should work. They used to come packaged according to sheet thickness. Some were extremely thin, as I recall, but go see what they've got.

Might not be interesting enough, but hardware/home center stores in Japan usually have sheets of acrylic in various sizes, thicknesses and colors. I'd guess an art/hobby store would have it.

Question for the group...

Anybody got any good ideas for non-traditional, hardware store-type material for a white pickguard??



Sure, go to Harbor Freight and get a "Beware of Dog" sign, they're 5$ and big enough to make a strat guard. They're a little thicker than a std single layer guard, but much thinner than a 3 layer. Judge for yourself, that's what's on my beater guitar, "Old Blue" :smile:


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZOspsnsL9Ag/TdZt25Xu73I/AAAAAAAAA5Y/ocRYIExho8s/s800/CD9111.JPG

Sure, go to Harbor Freight and get a "Beware of Dog" sign, they're 5$ and big enough to make a strat guard. They're a little thicker than a std single layer guard, but much thinner than a 3 layer. Judge for yourself, that's what's on my beater guitar, "Old Blue" :smile:


This is the kind of tip the OP was looking for. I knew there was a reason we kept Dave around...

Brilliant.

Hobby shops often sell sheet polystyrene for modelers who like to make their own additions to plane and tank models... should work. They used to come packaged according to sheet thickness. Some were extremely thin, as I recall, but go see what they've got.

Might not be interesting enough, but hardware/home center stores in Japan usually have sheets of acrylic in various sizes, thicknesses and colors. I'd guess an art/hobby store would have it.

Sure, go to Harbor Freight and get a "Beware of Dog" sign, they're 5$ and big enough to make a strat guard. They're a little thicker than a std single layer guard, but much thinner than a 3 layer. Judge for yourself, that's what's on my beater guitar, "Old Blue" :smile:

Great suggestions! Thanks everybody.

I've looked at acrylic, but not at an art/hobby store... :oops: I will definitely check out the polystyrene. And the "Beware of Dog" sign sounds like it might have exactly the type of mojo I'm looking for with this build!

This is the kind of tip the OP was looking for. I knew there was a reason we kept Dave around...

Brilliant.

I concur. Brilliant.

Oh, BTW, that's a great lookin' beater Dave. "Old Blue" looks like she has seen some hours. :cool:

This is the kind of tip the OP was looking for. I knew there was a reason we kept Dave around...

Brilliant.

Why thanks...................I think.........:roll:

:lol::lol:



I concur. Brilliant.

Oh, BTW, that's a great lookin' beater Dave. "Old Blue" looks like she has seen some hours. :cool:

Thanks :smile:, yeh, "Blue" has seen the wars :lol:. Except for the Sperzel tuners, it technically isn't worth much, one of those "sum of the parts" kinda thing :wink:

Just picked up a "Beware of the Dog" sign. Should work nicely. Thanks for the tip Dave.

BTW, Sperzel tuners are totally worth it in my book. Rock solid tuning. My Carvin has them and almost never gets out of tune.

Just picked up a "Beware of the Dog" sign. Should work nicely. Thanks for the tip Dave
De nada :wink:

BTW, Sperzel tuners are totally worth it in my book
Yeppers, my absolute favorite----DEATH to ALL string trees! :lol:

I'm loving this!
Subscribed...

I'm loving this!
Subscribed...

Cool, Thanks.

I'm working on scaling the pickguard up from my mockup image to make a template. Shouldn't take too long...

Also, when I picked up the sign/ pickguard material from Harbor Freight, I got a couple of deep reach c-clamps and some more 12" clamps. Hopefully I can get the hardboard glued on tomorrow! Fingers crossed. :neutral:

Nice build going here. I did a similar thing for last years Challenge.

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x340/dutchlefty/2011TDPRi%20Build%20Challenge/2011TDPRIfinishshots009.jpg

I'm subscribing to this.

Nice build going here. I did a similar thing for last years Challenge.

I'm subscribing to this.

Thanks. Nice looking guitar Olav. Love the black binding on white. Very classy.

If it was me, I'd have the "beware of dog" text facing out.

If it was me, I'd have the "beware of dog" text facing out.

The thought has crossed my mind... :wink:

If it was me, I'd have the "beware of dog" text facing out.

^this.

This is looking incredible! I've been building a bass like this in my head for a few years now.
I think your build may get me off my rump :)

Question: When you glued the layers, you only used screws? Did you use any clamps at all?
(You may have solved my "lack-of-clamps" problem :))

I see that you have already found material for your pick-guard. I've often wondered how using Formica (available at Lowes) would work....not only as a pick-guard but maybe even as a "finish" for the top.

On a construction side note: I seem to recall a dude over on the Reranch Forums that was doing some cool builds using really thin plywood like one would use for the back of a bookcase, dresser, etc. Can't remember the name...

Really Inspirational!
Looking forward to more :)

GotRoot?

This is looking incredible! I've been building a bass like this in my head for a few years now.
I think your build may get me off my rump :)

Question: When you glued the layers, you only used screws? Did you use any clamps at all?
(You may have solved my "lack-of-clamps" problem :))

I see that you have already found material for your pick-guard. I've often wondered how using Formica (available at Lowes) would work....not only as a pick-guard but maybe even as a "finish" for the top.

On a construction side note: I seem to recall a dude over on the Reranch Forums that was doing some cool builds using really thin plywood like one would use for the back of a bookcase, dresser, etc. Can't remember the name...

Really Inspirational!
Looking forward to more :)

GotRoot?

Thanks, glad you like it so far.

My first attempt to face glue the ply panels was unsuccessful. I used some home grown press-type clamps to pressure the ply together. It didn't work out too well... The cauls were not perfectly flat, so they ended up warping the glued up blank pretty noticeably.

I then resorted to some quick research on a wood working forum and got the answer: just screw it! Since the ply core is going to be capped with hardboard, the screw holes were a non-issue. I used 1.5" coarse thread drywall screws. They grip like crazy. Only problem was that they were just a shade too long once they were really tightened down. Next time, I intend to put some effort into finding a screw (1.25" would be great) that won't make an exit wound on the back of the core.

As for your "lack of clamps," that happens to be a malady that almost everyone can claim to be afflicted by. I get clamp envy when I see pics of guitars parts clamped up with so many clamps that you can't even see the work piece!

BTW, the screw trick worked great for the body core, but I will have to clamp the front and back hardboard panels to the core.

I seem to remember seeing a formica topped guitar someplace... Can't recall. I don't see why that wouldn't work though. Give it a shot, then post pics! :grin:

I've seen some Dano style builds with all wood, too. They look great and I'm sure they sound killer, but I was intentionally trying to stay closer to the original Dano process.

Thanks for your interest!

I was hoping to glue on the hardboard top and back today, but no luck.

I did, however, make some progress with the pickguard. I used Gimp to filter and resize my mock-up into a line-type image. I then overlayed the new mock-up image on top of the TDowns Rev E blueprint to get positioning and scale correct. Like this:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/pickguard.jpg

Then I printed out two letter-size chunks of pickguard, taped them together, and carefully cut out my full sized paper pickguard template! :cool:

Now I need to trace it on some 1/4" MDF and sand it to shape.

Maybe tomorrow... :oops:

Progress today! :mrgreen: Materials at the ready:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je13.jpg

First up: pickguard layout with my paper template. I decided to just go ahead and trace it onto the sign material. I will do an MDF template from the finished product. I figured I should allow for hand fitting before I spend time making a permanent template.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je14.jpg

Beware of Dog!!

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je15.jpg

After rough cutting on the band saw. Sweet!

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je16.jpg

Two pickguards. Hmmm... Looks like I'm gonna have to make another one... :lol:

Next up: Gluing hardboard front and back to the body core. First, I cut some of the excess material from around the hardboard panels.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je17.jpg

Glue on the back of the body core.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je18.jpg

Put in position and glue applied to the front of the body core.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je19.jpg

And PRESS!!

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je20.jpg

Lastly, apply all my clamps around the edge and wait. Impatiently... :sad:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je21.jpg

More soon...

Is the Dog sign material going to support the pots enough? I'm thinking there might be some flex there, if it's like similar signs I've seen.

Is the Dog sign material going to support the pots enough? I'm thinking there might be some flex there, if it's like similar signs I've seen.

I think it's gonna work fine. It is, however, a tiny bit thinner (and more flexible) than the single ply back cover of a Strat tremolo. I'm not gonna worry about it. :wink:

Is the Dog sign material going to support the pots enough? I'm thinking there might be some flex there, if it's like similar signs I've seen.

I've trashed 3 selector switches and broken one volume pot on my "Old Blue", other than a few scars, my dog sign is still intact :lol: (though the screws have been in and out so many times the holes are kinda squashed;and I've lost count of how many toothpicks have been glued in the body holes :lol:)


Dave

I've trashed 3 selector switches and broken one volume pot on my "Old Blue", other than a few scars, my dog sign is still intact :lol: (though the screws have been in and out so many times the holes are kinda squashed;and I've lost count of how many toothpicks have been glued in the body holes :lol:)

Dave

Good to know. Thanks.

Since I'm sooo patient :rolleyes:, I took the clamps off this morning before work. It came out great!

One thing is for sure: it's gonna be light! Especially compared to my main two guitars (a Carvin TL-60 neck-through in maple and koa & a mid-eighties Epiphone Genesis is all mahogany).

Maybe I can weigh it later today, but I'm not sure I'll have time. I'm about to go out of town until Sunday.

I forgot to mention earlier that I did a Strato convertible once around 1995. I had scored a real Dano convertible at the flea market and wanted to build something similar but more contemporary. I used pine or poplar for the frame with white shower stall hard board you get at a home center for the top and back. I used fabric store vinyl and contact glued it on the sides. I believe I made my own 3 point bridge with fretwire too. One lipstick pickup, one tone, and one volume. It came out nice but didn't have that stellar a sound. The shower stall stuff wasn't as scratch resistant as the formica was on the dano either.

Large kitty litter containers usually have large areas of plastic for pickguards depending on your needs.

I forgot to mention earlier that I did a Strato convertible once around 1995. I had scored a real Dano convertible at the flea market and wanted to build something similar but more contemporary. I used pine or poplar for the frame with white shower stall hard board you get at a home center for the top and back. I used fabric store vinyl and contact glued it on the sides. I believe I made my own 3 point bridge with fretwire too. One lipstick pickup, one tone, and one volume. It came out nice but didn't have that stellar a sound. The shower stall stuff wasn't as scratch resistant as the formica was on the dano either.

Large kitty litter containers usually have large areas of plastic for pickguards depending on your needs.

Sounds cool. Got pics? I'd love to see it.

I really like the concept of a Tele body and Danelectro p/ups and guard. Just a question, why do some have soundholes and is the p/up adjustable? I'm not knocking anything, just really curious.

I really like the concept of a Tele body and Danelectro p/ups and guard. Just a question, why do some have soundholes and is the p/up adjustable? I'm not knocking anything, just really curious.

Yes, the pups are adjustable on a Dano. Most of them I have seen adjust from the back. Same idea as Fender, but the screws are on the back...

As for sound holes, just design I guess.

Sounds cool. Got pics? I'd love to see it.

No, After a while it was just another guitar I made, so there isn't much of any record of stuff I built. I was just happy to sell it off and break even. If I recall, I think I used my first paddlehead neck on it.

Yes, the pups are adjustable on a Dano. Most of them I have seen adjust from the back. Same idea as Fender, but the screws are on the back...

As for sound holes, just design I guess.

If he is talking about the "convertible", that was a "hollow body" guitar and sold without the pickup sometimes. You can see it in old sears catalogs. They had metal covers where the screw holes would be.

Here's a pic of one with the top off:
http://www.fatdawg.com/project.html

Pretty sharp overlay of your blueprint on op of the TDowns schematic!

What'd you use to do that?

Build looking gooooood

Pretty sharp overlay of your blueprint on op of the TDowns schematic!

What'd you use to do that?

Build looking gooooood

Thanks for the positive energy! It really does help. :razz:

I use Gimp (freeware photo manipulation software) to do all that type stuff. It works every bit as well as Photoshop for my needs.

It's not too hard. I isolated the pickguard from my mockup, used an edge-detect filter (which makes all the lines "glow" on a black background), reversed the black/ white of the image, and took away everything except the line itself. Then I imported it on top of the TDowns blueprint, color corrected it to match, and fiddled with it until I got it scaled right. Simple right? :wink:

I'm back from the rainiest golf weekend ever. We managed to get two out of three rounds in and ate at some of the best restaurants in Baton Rouge and New Orleans. A great trip by any standard! :lol:

So here is where I am: The body after coming out of the clamps.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je22.jpg

Looks like I left a bit too much material to safely rout. :oops:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je23.jpg

So it's off to the band saw to trim her down.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je24.jpg

After routing around the sides of both top and bottom, I realized I needed to remove some material from the cutaway area. Nothin' the trusty old hand saw can't handle.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je25.jpg

Cut to an acceptable depth and SNAP! Hardboard breaks very easily. :wink:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je26.jpg

Finished trim routing. It's a little hard to read, but the caliper says 1.718" :cool:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je27.jpg

A light sanding to clean up the feathery edges of the hardboard and I'm done with this step. Let's take it inside to weigh!

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je28.jpg

It may not be the lightest guitar ever, but it's on the right track! :wink:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je29.jpg

Next step: body cavity/ sound hole routing. When I make time...

Cool! Lookin' good :wink:

Cool! Lookin' good :wink:

Thanks Dave!

Psyched!! I just bought one of these: :mrgreen:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/neprotuliteb.jpg

I figured I had gone all out to mix a Dano and a Tele, so I might as well mix the pickups too. I'll have this one in the bridge and a Fender Baja in the neck. I hope they play well together... :wink:

Psyched!! I just bought one of these: :mrgreen:
Cool :cool:, they make one for the neck as well :wink: :lol:. Just saying..........:smile:

Cool :cool:, they make one for the neck as well :wink: :lol:. Just saying..........:smile:

Yea, I thought about it. But I decided I really wanted to blend the two guitars, so I stayed with the Tele neck pup. Besides, it's chrome covered, too.

I'm sure this is heresy to some folks here, but I've never been that "in love" with the Tele bridge tone. :shock: Or any bridge tone for that matter.

I'm very much a neck pickup sort of player. And I do LOVE the Tele neck tone. Call me crazy, but it's what I like...

Call me crazy, but it's what I like...

Ok. if you insist............."Your crazy!" :lol:

But I can somewhat relate, had an LP Jr knock off once, had the idiot humbucker at the bridge (I mean really, a Jr with a humbucker? WTF?) and a firebird mini bucker had been chiseled into the neck position. When I tried it out, the mini sang to me. I tore out the bridge humbucker and played it that way for a long time, 'til someone offered me 200$ for it and I needed it :shock:. Dang, still wish I had that junker :roll:

Ok. if you insist............."Your crazy!" :lol:

But I can somewhat relate, had an LP Jr knock off once, had the idiot humbucker at the bridge (I mean really, a Jr with a humbucker? WTF?) and a firebird mini bucker had been chiseled into the neck position. When I tried it out, the mini sang to me. I tore out the bridge humbucker and played it that way for a long time, 'til someone offered me 200$ for it and I needed it :shock:. Dang, still wish I had that junker :roll:

I've been thinking I need to try a mini bucker... Hmmm... Another build?? :wink:

Well... two weeks of wrangling over a pickup and I still don't have what I need. :neutral:

The story goes like this...

I received this pup in the mail. Hooray! :grin:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/IMG_8812.jpg

It looks great! But wait! There's more!

First, the pup was sent to me with three Gibson style humbucker adjustment screws. (Much too narrow to fit the threads.) A quick email and this issue was resolved by the nice people at GFS.

A few days later, I received the correct screws compliments of the US Postal Service. So, naturally, I test fit the pickup to my new StewMac traditional style tele bridge (#4583). When the third screw will not line up, I eyeball the plate against the bridge and see this:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/IMG_8809.jpg

Here is a close up of the problem:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/IMG_8811.jpg

The forward screw hole of the pickup base plate does not line up with the bridge plate. Crap! :shock:

Another quick email to GFS. They are apologetic and eager to fix the issue. On their request I email these photos to them to detail the problem. They agree that the plate should not be that way and drop a replacement pickup in the mail.

On a side note: I test fit four other tele bridge pups (including one Fender) and they all fit exactly correctly. I have full confidence that the misalignment issue is due to the pickup base plate.

A few days later, the replacement arrives. I rush off to test fit the little bugger only to discover it lines up exactly like the previous example! Crap again! :sad:

Yet another email to the (obviously patient) folks at GFS to 'splain the situation. Again.

After another apology, I was informed that the rest of their stock "all seem to be correct." And should I desire a refund, this is how I go about it.

Well, I don't want a refund. I want a properly fitting pickup. So, now I have been referred to their in-house "guitar tech expert."

At this point, I am curious to know if they have a widespread tooling error, or did I get the only two lemons on the lot? Whatever the result, the folks at GFS have been polite, patient, and professional during this whole episode. :cool:

I think, regardless of what the tech expert comes up with, I will change my pickup plan. I think now I will go with one of my properly fitting bridge pups and have GFS send me a strat neck lipstick tube instead. That way, I'll have good pups and still have the tonal combination of a Tele/ Dano I was looking for.

Bummer on the lipstick pup; as I said in another thread, mine fit perfectly with a stock bridge, and it sounds great. Good luck with your fix.

Ask them to do this: Test fit one of those pickups to a Wilkinson Tele bridge (try at least two bridges, they do sell them :roll:). If it fits, have them send it to you post haste :smile:. If it doesn't, they have some phone calls to make :wink:



FWIW, it appears to me all the holes are off a little, with the back two lined up, the tube is not centered and is crooked :wink:

I have an original 50's dano lipstick in the neck of a tele, with no bridge pickup. If i can suggest one thing, use the lipstick for the neck - and a tele pickup for the bridge. It's a sweet sweet sound coming from the neck position ;)

This is a fun build to watch. I wouldn't mind building a guitar out of plywood and masonite.

Subscribe!

Bummer on the lipstick pup; as I said in another thread, mine fit perfectly with a stock bridge, and it sounds great. Good luck with your fix.

Thanks.

Ask them to do this: Test fit one of those pickups to a Wilkinson Tele bridge (try at least two bridges, they do sell them :roll:). If it fits, have them send it to you post haste :smile:. If it doesn't, they have some phone calls to make :wink:

FWIW, it appears to me all the holes are off a little, with the back two lined up, the tube is not centered and is crooked :wink:

Yep. I should have plenty to discuss with their tech expert. In the interest of keeping things simple and on topic, I haven't even mentioned to them that the pup looks off axis in the bridge plate. Personally, I think they got a bad batch of base plates. :sad:

I have an original 50's dano lipstick in the neck of a tele, with no bridge pickup. If i can suggest one thing, use the lipstick for the neck - and a tele pickup for the bridge. It's a sweet sweet sound coming from the neck position ;)

Well, I guess this may end up being a happy accident, because that is where I am heading. :wink:

This is a fun build to watch. I wouldn't mind building a guitar out of plywood and masonite.

Go for it! And post pics! :grin: It's cheap and easy. I hope it sounds great, too.

Subscribe!

Thanks. Glad to have you. Just try to be patient with me. I'm not the quickest worker in these parts... :oops:

Personally, I think they got a bad batch of base plates. :sad:
Bingo! :wink:

Bingo! :wink:

Well, maybe this explanation is not as obvious as I thought....

I just got an email from GFS that proclaims their bewilderment over this problem. Apparently, they have checked all their stock and back-stock of this pup (#I68) against at least two varieties of tele bridge they sell and found no ill-fitting examples in the whole lot.

Maybe I'm just lucky??? :confused:

Anyway, I plan to send these back and get the strat sized version for the neck position.

Have you finished the build yet?

How's the build going. Can't wait to see how you do the paint finish

Just wait to see what I use on my "firecaster" firebird build as a pickguard. It's shiny. Anyway, I really love this guitar! I've never heard of using plywood or hardboard? what's it.. like?

Have you finished the build yet?

No, but thanks for asking. Since the snafu with the pups, I've been a little off-track. :oops: I have made some small progress though...

After making some more templates, I got the body cavities routed and the neck roughed out. I'll post pics over the weekend. (I hope!)

How's the build going. Can't wait to see how you do the paint finish

Slowly... :wink: Me too on the finish. Since the hardboard is sooo smooth already, I'm thinking I won't need tons of surface prep on the body. A white base coat is all I'm planning. We'll see how it works out together... :confused:

Just wait to see what I use on my "firecaster" firebird build as a pickguard. It's shiny. Anyway, I really love this guitar! I've never heard of using plywood or hardboard? what's it.. like?

Thanks for the encouragement. I will check out your firecaster build... So far plywood and hardboard has been great. It's cheap, easy to work, and cheap. I guess the final eval will have wait till I'm done, but I like it. If I get half the tone of an original Dano, I will be thrilled.

Thanks for the interest. More updates soon!! :grin:

I just got an email from GFS that proclaims their bewilderment over this problem. Apparently, they have checked all their stock and back-stock of this pup (#I68) against at least two varieties of tele bridge they sell and found no ill-fitting examples in the whole lot.


Curiouser and curiouser :roll:, did you by chance try them in a different tele bridge?



Can't wait to see the good work :wink:

Seriously considering doing a Longhorn Bass using this type of construction... I'm in the planning stages, but I have several other projects I really should finish up first!

Curiouser and curiouser :roll:, did you by chance try them in a different tele bridge?

Can't wait to see the good work :wink:

Thanks. No, I only have the one bridge right now. Still, all my other tele bridge pickups fit the Stew Mac bridge just fine. So who knows....?

I had sort of resolved myself to switching back to a tele bridge pup and ordering a strat size lipstick for the neck, but the more I thought about it, the more I felt like keeping the lipstick at the bridge. Now I'm thinking about altering the bridge I have to fit the GFS pup.

In the interest of keeping the project moving forward without having to wait on other parts, I'm leaning toward completing the build with what I have on hand. I don't need any more reasons to procrastinate. :wink:

Seriously considering doing a Longhorn Bass using this type of construction... I'm in the planning stages, but I have several other projects I really should finish up first!

I'd love to see a longhorn...

Go for it! And don't let those pesky "half-finished" projects ruin your focus! :mrgreen:

Seriously considering doing a Longhorn Bass using this type of construction... I'm in the planning stages, but I have several other projects I really should finish up first!

Here's the link to the free plan posted here on the Depot LINK (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/157004-printable-guitar-template-pdf-8.html#post3665870) :wink:

Here's the link to the free plan posted here on the Depot LINK (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/157004-printable-guitar-template-pdf-8.html#post3665870) :wink:

Yup! Got it! Been poring over it for about a week now! So cool!

My mom was having a discussion with some people at the store yesterday. They were saying how a plywood guitar wouldn't sound as good as the "other woods they use". First of all, learn the name, it's tonewood. Second of all, plywood is great! What the people here do with plywood, hardboard, 2x4s, and even pallets is amazing, and they sound great! I just felt like posting so you guys could have a good laugh, and it's somewhat relevant.

On a different note, I want updates!!!

My mom was having a discussion with some people at the store yesterday. They were saying how a plywood guitar wouldn't sound as good as the "other woods they use". First of all, learn the name, it's tonewood. Second of all, plywood is great! What the people here do with plywood, hardboard, 2x4s, and even pallets is amazing, and they sound great! I just felt like posting so you guys could have a good laugh, and it's somewhat relevant.

On a different note, I want updates!!!

I want updates, too! Oh wait, it's my thread.... :rolleyes:

I'll get some more pics up this weekend and hopefully make some more sawdust early next week.

Glad to have you watching.

I want updates, too! Oh wait, it's my thread.... :rolleyes:

I'll get some more pics up this weekend and hopefully make some more sawdust early next week.

Glad to have you watching.

You know you've got work to do when you can't even show patience to yourself :lol:!!!

I don't want to pressure you but I too am impatiently awaiting updates :cool:.

What's your plan for the sides. I can't imagine you'll want to leave the exposed plywood.

You know you've got work to do when you can't even show patience to yourself :lol:!!!

I don't want to pressure you but I too am impatiently awaiting updates :cool:.

Thanks. More soon... :razz:

What's your plan for the sides. I can't imagine you'll want to leave the exposed plywood.

No exposed ply. I bought a few rolls of vinyl shelf liner. Once the paint is on, I'm planning to see which one looks best. Application should be fairly simple. Just cut a long strip to the correct width, spray on adhesive, and stick on. That's the plan anyway. :wink: Thanks for your interest.

Dang I've been away from this thing for too long!!

I'm finally getting some update pics posted and hope to make some progress on Monday (I'm off work for three days!).

Anyway, since our last episode, I finished the templates for my bridge cavity and soundhole.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je30.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je31.jpg

Once they were shaped to my liking, I attached them to my working template and routed the holes for the body cavities.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je32.jpg

Then using that template, I routed the cavities to look like this:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je33.jpg

and

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je34.jpg

On a side note, I made an unforced error to my body template while cutting the cavities on the body.

My only top-bearing pattern bit is 1" long, so I measured the required depth of the cavity, added the thickness of the template and (on the second and final pass) I set the depth accordingly.

The cavity in the body came out just like I wanted, but in the process I managed to burn/ deform my template. Seems the collet nut was protruding from the base of the router just far enough to add a really interesting look to the top edge of my template. :oops:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je322.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je325.jpg

Oh well. I already intended to do another "final" version of this template when I finish this build.

Once I got the bridge and soundhole routs done, I did some pencil layout for the rest of the bits and pieces.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je35.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je36.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je37.jpg

I also decided on the final placement of the controls and marked the body and pickguard. I love a table full of hardware! :mrgreen:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je38.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je39.jpg

My next step is to drill holes for strings, ferrules, and controls. I'm planning on using T-nuts and ferrules for the neck attachment. I also need to radius the body and start on the neck. :grin:

I need more days off!

I also decided on the final placement of the controls and marked the body and pickguard. I love a table full of hardware! :mrgreen:
Nice to see this moving again John :smile:. It's gonna be sweet :wink:



I need more days off!
Be careful what you wish for :roll:

Be careful what you wish for :roll:

Yeah, I thought about that after I posted... :neutral:

Believe me, I am totally thankful to be gainfully employed. So, let me rephrase: I need more weekends! :cool:

Yeah, I thought about that after I posted... :neutral:

Believe me, I am totally thankful to be gainfully employed. So, let me rephrase: I need more weekends! :cool:

There ya' go! :smile:

Seriously considering doing a Longhorn Bass using this type of construction... I'm in the planning stages, but I have several other projects I really should finish up first!

I'd love to see a longhorn...

Go for it! And don't let those pesky "half-finished" projects ruin your focus! :mrgreen:

Here's the link to the free plan posted here on the Depot LINK (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/157004-printable-guitar-template-pdf-8.html#post3665870) :wink:

Yup! Got it! Been poring over it for about a week now! So cool!

I guess it's official... I've started gathering parts for a longhorn bass... (But, I still need to finish some other projects first!)

Glad you're back at it. It's really coming along too, gonna be a nice guitar.

On the template pickup hole, you going to be able to save it or will you have to make another one? If you have a technique to fix it let us know (I could use the advice if you know where I'm going here :razz:).

:cool:

I guess it's official... I've started gathering parts for a longhorn bass... (But, I still need to finish some other projects first!)

Well good on you :smile:. With the way things are going yours will still be finished before mine :lol:

I guess it's official... I've started gathering parts for a longhorn bass... (But, I still need to finish some other projects first!)

Sweet! Start a thread so we can see how it's done. :wink:

Glad you're back at it. It's really coming along too, gonna be a nice guitar.

On the template pickup hole, you going to be able to save it or will you have to make another one? If you have a technique to fix it let us know (I could use the advice if you know where I'm going here :razz:).

Thanks for the support. As for the template, my plan is to flip it over and use it to run a brand new working template off the clean edge. I'm not sure how I would fix that. But I bet somebody here has an idea or two... :grin:

Well good on you :smile:. With the way things are going yours will still be finished before mine :lol:

Hey! I think that was my line. I'm bettin' both of you can finish before me...:oops:

Good to see you back on task. We expect another full report later today.

I should talk. Since completing my Dano style rebuild last April I've got about as far along as you are on a Tele body for my next project. I am also trying to make a nice wood box for my younger daughter as the Dano was a Bday gift for her sister. Hmm. Maybe just to keep things even both daughters need a guitar built by dad.

Good to see you back on task. We expect another full report later today.

Hah! I appreciate your optimism! But, please don't hold your breath... :wink:

Hmm. Maybe just to keep things even both daughters need a guitar built by dad.

Yes. Yes they do. :cool:

I aleady have "orders" from all three of my young'uns (ages 8, 11, & 13) for new guitars!

Well, I guess it's about time for my monthly report..... :oops:

Yes, this project is still alive. Just barely above comatose, but alive.

I'm planning on doing some body work tomorrow. Thank goodness it's (almost) Saturday! :grin:

I'm wanting to do the edge radius, control cavity, and jack hole. If I really get on a roll, I might even spray a base coat. We'll see...

Good to see ya' John :wink:

Well, Saturday turned into Sunday, but I got to make some sawdust today! :cool:

Pics uploading now!

Finally some fun with power tools!

My first step was to get some more holes made in my working template.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je42.jpg

String-through, bridge mount, neck mount, and control cavity shaped holes.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je43.jpg

Next up, I routed the rest of the control cavity shape.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je44.jpg

Now on to making holes in the body... :mrgreen:

First, the control cavity.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je45.jpg

Looks good!

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je46.jpg

I'm hoping it's not too narrow. I used a 1" forstner bit to make the holes where the pots and switch will sit because the tele control cavity is only 1" wide. If it ends up being tight, I've got plenty of real estate under the pickguard to enlarge it a bit.

Pickup wiring hole from the bridge cavity.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je47.jpg

As luck would have it, it's actually pretty close to where it should be! I was just trying to drill through the thinnest part of the bridge block because I don't have a long drill bit. :wink:

Neck anchor holes drilled from the back.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je48.jpg

I didn't drill all the way through. I just went deep enough to make the holes come out clean once I rout the neck pocket.

Bridge anchor holes drilled to the correct depth and string-through holes drilled about half way.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je49.jpg

Once I took off the template, I drilled the rest of the way through. This is the back:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je50.jpg

Yes, they are pretty crooked. :oops: More crooked than I was hoping for. But I decided that if I'm gonna ever finish this puppy, I can't let perfect be the enemy of progress. I may try to fix 'em later, put in a tone bar, or just live with it. I haven't decided yet...

Body radius time! I was thinking about a 3/16th radius, but since I already have a 1/4" bit I just went with that. :wink:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je51.jpg

It's finally starting to really look like a guitar body. :grin:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je52.jpg

I love a good close-up! :cool: I was wondering if I could get away with not doing any grain fill type prep on this body since the hardboard is really smooth and the plywood is going to be covered with a vinyl band. I may seal it anyway...

I was wondering if I could get away with not doing any grain fill type prep on this body since the hardboard is really smooth and the plywood is going to be covered with a vinyl band. I may seal it anyway...

I never knew a good coat of shellac to hurt anything :grin:


Great looking guitar body there John :wink:

Jack hole drilled at 7/8" diameter. No "flat spot" for me. I'm going to use a curved plate. I would prefer a rectangle, but a football would do.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je53.jpg

Strap button holes drilled.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je54.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je55.jpg

As you can see in that last pic, I decided to go ahead and radius the neck pocket area as well (top and bottom). I'm planning to use machine screws, T-nuts, and those heavy neck-screw-washer thingies instead of a plate, so I'm not that worried about the radius messing up the plate clearance.

And here is the (not really that close to being) finished product:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je56.jpg

This looks great! You've given me lots of ideas, that's for sure.

I never knew a good coat of shellac to hurt anything :grin:

Great looking guitar body there John :wink:

Thank you Dave. :grin:

And good point about the shellac.

In a previous life, I ran a super-custom frame shop for a major art production company. We made cutsom profiled mouldings, hand carved adornments, gold leafed anything, hand wrapped linen mats, the whole nine yards. It was a lot of fun, by the way. :mrgreen: We use shellac a ton on our custom mouldings. For some reason, I haven't considered it much recently. Do you put lacquer over it? I don't remember ever doing that in the frame shop...

This looks great! You've given me lots of ideas, that's for sure.

Thanks!

Ideas can be a blessing and a curse. I have tons of them, but I don't act on enough of them to get the job done! Hence the painfully long build going on here. :oops:

Anyway, I hope any ideas I may have sparked for you will get you busy building! Start a thread!

Oh, I also started fitting/ shaping the pickguard. So far, I've finished the top "seal head" portion.

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je57.jpg

I'm back from the rainiest golf weekend ever. We managed to get two out of three rounds in and ate at some of the best restaurants in Baton Rouge and New Orleans. A great trip by any standard! :lol:

So here is where I am: The body after coming out of the clamps.

Looks like I left a bit too much material to safely rout. :oops:

So it's off to the band saw to trim her down.

After routing around the sides of both top and bottom, I realized I needed to remove some material from the cutaway area. Nothin' the trusty old hand saw can't handle.

Cut to an acceptable depth and SNAP! Hardboard breaks very easily. :wink:

Finished trim routing. It's a little hard to read, but the caliper says 1.718" :cool:

A light sanding to clean up the feathery edges of the hardboard and I'm done with this step. Let's take it inside to weigh!

It may not be the lightest guitar ever, but it's on the right track! :wink:

Next step: body cavity/ sound hole routing. When I make time...

What exactly is this "hardboard"? Just curious! Ive been thinking about. Doing a little project like this for a while just to do it!

Great looking project.

We use shellac a ton on our custom mouldings. For some reason, I haven't considered it much recently. Do you put lacquer over it? I don't remember ever doing that in the frame shop...
You can put lacquer over it. It's been a universal finish since long before ole Amenhotep was in diapers :lol:. You can use it up to three coats, sanding between coats as primer. After 3 coats, you better make other plans :lol:. If you continue you must French polish, or you can leave it, and it will accept literally any finish over top of it :wink:...............and you can tint it! :grin:

What exactly is this "hardboard"? Just curious! Ive been thinking about. Doing a little project like this for a while just to do it!

Great looking project.

It's not really a typical guitar building material, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardboard

Also see: Masonite (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masonite)

You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes... about $13.50 for a 4'x8' sheet 3/16" thick.

Could you make an acoustic out of masonite? "The long fibers give Masonite a high bending strength, tensile strength, density and stability" :eek: And since they don't use glue, would that mean it would be fine to use, say a hand plane on it, and it wouldn't dull your blade?

It's not really a typical guitar building material, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardboard

Dunno. Seems to have worked ok for http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danelectro

What exactly is this "hardboard"? Just curious! Ive been thinking about. Doing a little project like this for a while just to do it!

Great looking project.

Thanks. It's cheap and easy to work with. :grin: A win-win in my book!

It's not really a typical guitar building material...

True, but it works.

Also see: Masonite

You can get it at Home Depot or Lowes... about $13.50 for a 4'x8' sheet 3/16" thick.

This stock came from HD.

Could you make an acoustic out of masonite? "The long fibers give Masonite a high bending strength, tensile strength, density and stability" :eek: And since they don't use glue, would that mean it would be fine to use, say a hand plane on it, and it wouldn't dull your blade?

Yes, but let's just say it's not an "optimal" acoustic material.

As for not dulling your hand plane blade, I don't know. I don't have a hand plane to try it on. I will say, hardboard is super easy to cut and shape with power tools. :grin:

Dunno. Seems to have worked ok for Danelectro

Yup. I'm not sure how good they sound unplugged, but Danos sound great plugged-in!

You can put lacquer over it. It's been a universal finish since long before ole Amenhotep was in diapers :lol:. You can use it up to three coats, sanding between coats as primer. After 3 coats, you better make other plans :lol:. If you continue you must French polish, or you can leave it, and it will accept literally any finish over top of it :wink:...............and you can tint it! :grin:

Cool. Thanks for the insight.

Why only three coats? :confused:

Cool. Thanks for the insight.

Why only three coats? :confused:

Regular, thick, painted on coats will tend to "shingle", and layer, becoming cloudy and fragile. If you are going the French polish route, I would recommend you do it from the start. The point being to add multiple, flexible, VERYYYY thin coats.
If used as a primer like I do, then three's my limit. It's not like any other primer is any thicker. If it's a non-porous wood like pine, I like to keep it down to two coats, as a primer & tint. Sorry for running on :lol:

You almost make me to start building again! Looking good so far!

Regular, thick, painted on coats will tend to "shingle", and layer, becoming cloudy and fragile. If you are going the French polish route, I would recommend you do it from the start. The point being to add multiple, flexible, VERYYYY thin coats.
If used as a primer like I do, then three's my limit. It's not like any other primer is any thicker. If it's a non-porous wood like pine, I like to keep it down to two coats, as a primer & tint. Sorry for running on :lol:

Thanks and no worries about running on. That's what this place is for right? :wink:

You almost make me to start building again! Looking good so far!

Thanks. I'm sure I speak for everyone here when I say, "Just Do It." Start building again! :lol:

A few questions:

1. Anybody got a recommendation on a Harbor Freight spray gun? I need a good (and inexpensive) new tool! :mrgreen:

2. Anybody here have any experience spraying hardboard? Any tips, pitfalls, etc?

3. Anyone got a clue about how Dano painted their original DC or U series? I can't seem to find much.

I know some of the reissue Danos I've seen are a semi matte finish while the vintage ones had a variety of finishes. Some were gloss, some a sort-of orange peel type effect (I don't know if those finishes were original).

Any help here would be great. I'm planning on spraying a base coat (of some variety), a color coat, and a clear coat, but I would like to know anyway.

Thanks. :cool:

O.k. - project update. (And WAY ahead of my normal once-a-month schedule!!) :wink:

I finished hand-shaping the pickguard. Looks really cool. I may have pics up tomorrow...

I'm going to HF to pick up a HVLP spray gun today. :mrgreen:

I've shifted gears on my neck. Again.

I was originally planning on a fully painted oak neck with a poplar fret board and a non-adjustable aluminum reinforcement bar. After reading an article (http://www.pen4rent.com/pen4rent/tribute.aspx) by Nate Daniels' son Howard, I have decided to go for a multi-piece laminated poplar neck. I'm still stickin' with aluminum instead of steel reinforcement, however.

After reading an article (http://www.pen4rent.com/pen4rent/tribute.aspx) by Nate Daniels' son Howard

FYI, friend him on Facebook. He's an affable and gracious fellow, and loves to talk about his "pop" :wink:

Is this build still going? I've had a guitar in my head, and have considered this type of build for a while now. Looks great, I can't wait to see more!

I was playing my copper Dano 56 RI last night. I have SD lipsticks in it and modified it with a Fender string through bridge. Seymour's lipsticks are incredible pickups. VERY highly recommended. Tone for miles and the string through bridge doesn't hurt either!

Rob

Is this build still going? I've had a guitar in my head, and have considered this type of build for a while now. Looks great, I can't wait to see more!

Short answer is yes, this project is still going. Very, almost painfully, ssssllooooooowwwwllllyyy.

But hope springs eternal, and maybe I will actually make some meaningful progress soon. I have a few minor updates I need to post pics of, so I will do my best. Speaking of " Do Your Best," that's the slogan of the Cub Scouts. My youngest son and I will be making his Pinewood Deby car this weekend. So since the sawdust will be flying anyway, I'm hoping to sneak in a bit of luthiery too. :rolleyes:

I was playing my copper Dano 56 RI last night. I have SD lipsticks in it and modified it with a Fender string through bridge. Seymour's lipsticks are incredible pickups. VERY highly recommended. Tone for miles and the string through bridge doesn't hurt either!

Rob

Sounds like a great axe. SD pickups are nice. I've never seen (or heard) their lipsticks, but now I'm curious. Any chance you have a clip of that guitar laying around somewhere out there on the innerwebs? :grin:

Update time! I did get some work done while working on my boys Pinewood Derby cars. But first, a peek at the cars:

Here are the "Star Spangled Bullet" and the "Silver Surfer" in progress.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/EBBDB234-6C03-441E-AB43-C4FB333E39D0-5154-000007C8AE896BA0_zps2a603f45.jpg

And here is my youngest with the first place trophy in the Bear Den.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/C1C3323C-A3C9-4A5D-8A2B-7D5CA57FADC5-5154-000007C8BE377F69_zps83d78a65.jpg

My boy is the one in the middle. The kid on the left was the Pack Champion. My son came in third in the finals.:cool:

Since last we met.....

I finished hand shaping the pickguard and started the layout on the neck template.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/5041E8EC-5B07-417D-8ED5-B8E14D9221A2-5154-000007B7DCD2882E_zps886959f9.jpg

Headstock
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/15CD5BAF-59A1-46BE-9F74-4141A0C32D06-5154-000007B83049D25E_zps300e5c88.jpg

Rough cut template
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/245A2DF0-18FD-4C51-A3ED-7636B4AF7BB3-5154-000007B83AB62043_zps25bb17b1.jpg

I hand shaped the under curve of the headstock with a sanding block and a lot of elbow grease. I then took my Strat neck template and used it to pattern route the top edge and transition areas.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/241AC4B6-8732-477D-9609-A4FA40182B95-5154-000007B9C073F01D_zps429bba02.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/25539605-F575-4B76-9554-B87D2E683E5F-5154-000007B878172F70_zpsf0d2c0cd.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/16E443A5-C3D1-4D29-88A9-4226EB24EDB5-5154-000007B86B0E8395_zps60ed4eea.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/1717F439-DAF5-4F1B-BFC4-AB4A315FFF8F-5154-000007B9DD328EFE_zps8df9df3c.jpg

While working on the body last fall, I decided to drill the holes for the neck screws like this:
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/je48.jpg

I then went through some rethinking of the neck construction. I had originally planned on an oak neck because I already had the wood and I felt it would be plenty strong without a truss rod.

I then changed my mind after more research on the original Dano process. It seems Danelectro used multi-piece poplar neck with a two steel reinforcement rods. I bought some poplar with the intention of laminating a neck blank and carrying on. Well, in the interest of progress, I have decided to keep to the original plan and use oak.

I did however rethink the attachment method. I decided to use T-nuts and washers.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/71479054-6402-4963-82FB-6F36E1C6853F-5154-000007B824763316_zps3e10f83a.jpg

This would allow two things: first, I wouldn't need a neck plate (Dano's didn't use them) and second, I could radius the entire neck pocket area just like the rest of the body. Doing the full radius, however, made it necessary to relocate the attachment holes at the headstock end of the neck pocket.

So I fiiled the holes with dowels,
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/3EA01F9D-E8FA-4EF9-B95A-289E65994E61-5154-000007B7EDEA7DF2_zps927cec5d.jpg

And cut 'em off flush.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/F5398878-B51C-43E5-A9DF-250B492CC0EB-5154-000007B845F0C8B6_zps3fff8030.jpg

After routing the oak neck blank I had to take the opportunity to lay it out and imagine... :grin:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/B140BF43-07D9-4A41-885B-D41850064B4E-5154-000007B9EC4730FA_zps88a23c13.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/F415ABBC-A7C9-4B6A-A9BB-EADF312C2368-5154-000007B9FDB11EA1_zps30f3a883.jpg

Up next... The trials and tribulations of neck pocket routing!

That looks so cool...................love that oak neck, got one of my own coming soon. Good to see the progress :wink:

After routing the oak neck blank I had to take the opportunity to lay it out and imagine... :grin:

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/B140BF43-07D9-4A41-885B-D41850064B4E-5154-000007B9EC4730FA_zps88a23c13.jpg



...on the bed:shock:

looking good. I'm doing a Dano-type thing myself at the moment and I can see myself experimenting a bit with the Dano-vibe on a few more builds in the future. You've got me thinking that maybe I should have done the T-Nuts thing...my thinking with going conventional Dano is that Dano's usually survive without a neck-plate so hopefully mine will. Time reveals all I guess.

very cool thread! Did GFS resolve the pickup baseplate fit issue?

Love it! What a capital idea. Using the Danelectro convertible design on a tele is genius. I always thought that was a cool design. It's really shaping up nicely.

Dan R

That looks so cool...................love that oak neck, got one of my own coming soon. Good to see the progress :wink:

Thanks Dave. I'm looking forward to the oak neck too.

This is coming along great!

...on the bed:shock:

looking good. I'm doing a Dano-type thing myself at the moment and I can see myself experimenting a bit with the Dano-vibe on a few more builds in the future. You've got me thinking that maybe I should have done the T-Nuts thing...my thinking with going conventional Dano is that Dano's usually survive without a neck-plate so hopefully mine will. Time reveals all I guess.

Yeah... I thought about that bed thing after I posted. :oops: Oh well...

Thanks for your comments, by the way.

I went with T-nuts because I was already planning a two piece neck. I figured the install would be easy enough. We shall see. I also was hoping for a stronger anchor point. The 59 Dano had a longer neck pocket with only three in-line screws. Since the Tele pocket is shorter I figured T-bolts certainly won't hurt anything.

very cool thread! Did GFS resolve the pickup baseplate fit issue?

Nope. I'm still convinced they got a bad batch of base plates. I've since bought a Fender vintage bridge and its just the same. ALL of my Fender and after market pups fit both the Stew-Mac and Fender bridges perfectly. The GFS lipsticks still do not line up. Oh well. :neutral:

I'm just gonna Dremmel the forward hole of the bridge out to make it fit. I hope it looks ok.

Love it! What a capital idea. Using the Danelectro convertible design on a tele is genius. I always thought that was a cool design. It's really shaping up nicely.

Dan R

This is coming along great!

Thank guys. I appreciate the feedback.

Neck pocket time. First step is the all important layout. Setting up to make the template.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/7CA85C9C-61EE-4746-AFD5-DC8871E64A72-5154-000007BA12EEB759_zpsba6f6968.jpg

Next the critical alignment of the center lines.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/FBC01C42-B838-4A5D-B0A1-871DF6327C42-5154-000007BA22BB2226_zps0fa38cde.jpg

Centerline looks great. Notice anything out of the ordinary here? I didn't....
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/CE285D3A-DCDF-4EE5-8875-C73252B027A1-5154-000007BA323D4516_zps241aff51.jpg

Until much later... The pocket is too short by a full inch!

An old habit of mine is to measure from a whole inch mark, not the end of the tape (or ruler) because the end is not as accurate for very short or precise measurements. It seems I forgot to compensate. Chalk it up to experience. :oops:

As I was yet unaware of my error in measurement, I progressed happily on.

I used the machined edge of some scrap 1/4" MDF to use as a guide around the clamped down neck. A few brad nails to keep it in place.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/D145A4F0-B7AC-4C48-8568-6A9BA81B226A-5154-000007BA42204A59_zps07e66eb3.jpg

Routed out the template pocket.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/575D9345-9237-4627-8017-B79AB7076621-5154-000007BA531BB7CC_zps7a0adfdd.jpg

And ended up with a pretty tight fitting template.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/EFE705BB-A2EA-4F57-9DCD-6CA96CD29C16-5154-000007BA5F967454_zps3e8a6c8c.jpg

Except it was in the wrong place... :roll:

All-in-all, it was an easy fix to go from this:
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/4F12C22B-B995-4567-88BB-D4A730C87835-5154-000007BA71BA74A3_zps7f0c0ab0.jpg

To this:
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/73AF733C-565F-44B4-9353-CE335B1C9890-5154-000007BA864E1C2B_zpscf529b3c.jpg

A much better look... AND the proper scale length. :wink:

Better 10 mistakes on a template than one on the body :wink:

Is that red oak your using for the neck?

Better 10 mistakes on a template than one on the body :wink:

I couldn't agree more!

Is that red oak your using for the neck?

Yup. Plain old hardware store one-by-four...:grin:

Up next, pocket routing!

Here is the corrected cavity template.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/60AF8B56-DE85-41D4-8ED2-0C094470A303-5154-000007BAAD43BBDA_zps89875ab5.jpg

And the sacrificial lamb.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/5E445ED5-1B91-4855-AFDD-D1F53F244FF5-5154-000007BABA2A4FFA_zps4f8bcb9f.jpg

First step is to hog out a bit of the target area.
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/0770DBC4-2815-4E77-8559-74AE933BAE40-5154-000007BAC810BE44_zps725b9070.jpg

Then carefully set the bit depth and go for it! I ended up with a surprisingly smooth pocket area. :cool:
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/4EBB36EF-9020-4D0E-97FB-00325C8478A3-5154-000007BADC58B53C_zps1c298119.jpg

Close ups...
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/0EB87C44-4C2A-4917-B0DF-6A6ED73E4186-5154-000007BAEEE7EE84_zps5b6c650c.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/44326F6B-E8D5-4E1F-86BA-38D50879A85C-5154-000007BB0BFC5E1B_zpsa713dad9.jpg

http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/72C7FF3F-A63F-48DA-B1A1-DFCE8B0EA83B-5154-000007BB16EDDB8B_zps56cfa8e4.jpg

Had a little chip-out to clean up with a razor and sand paper, but overall, I'm pretty happy with the results.

The current state of affairs:
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/2D6D0B62-6063-4689-9256-23C67B40096D-5154-000007BB2C09208C_zpsf9c67a31.jpg

And,
http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j371/sjohnbruton/jonelectro%20proto/E6521164-7336-41ED-8EB2-4F7AB0B7DFFF-5154-000007BB37E585CD_zps838a8da3.jpg

More soon. I'm itching to sling paint! But I think I need to wait until the neck is done. We'll see... :rolleyes:

Wow, its looking great!

Wow, its looking great!

What he said! :grin:

Wow, its looking great!

What he said! :grin:

Thanks for the support. My next project: routing a channel for the aluminum reinforcement bar and gluing on the fret board. Maybe I can get it together for this weekend... :wink:

How's the build going. We're all waiting with bated breath

How's the build going. We're all waiting with bated breath

Slowly, as usual... :oops:

Bated breath is one thing, but PLEASE don't hold your breath. I would hate to be responsible for someone turning blue and hitting their head...

This project is on my mind almost constantly. I just have a tough time clearing my schedule enough to actually work on it!

Thanks for your interest. And your patience. :wink: