Jupiter
May 25th, 2012, 07:26 AM
like it sez. I'm wet-sanding w/600# grit, and I'm just slightly going through. :sad:
I'm okay with spraying more, but I'm wondering if I need to rough it up a bit more or if I can spray over 600# sanding.
somemadhope
May 25th, 2012, 09:45 AM
I would say 600 grit is sufficiently rough to spray back over. The lacquer will melt into itself a good bit anyway.
Did you clear over the color coat? That helps avoid sand thrus a bit, though on edges its always gonna be a challenge.
oramac7891
May 25th, 2012, 09:48 AM
You will be fine, just make sure you remove all debris and make sure it is dry
Jupiter
May 25th, 2012, 10:06 AM
Thanks. :smile:
Yeah, I clear-coated, for exactly the reason mentioned, but I don't think I will next time; it's a solid color (white), and I have some places where going through the clear into the color has left a funky effect. I'm just going to keep it simple and do a ton of coats of white.
Silverface
May 27th, 2012, 04:14 PM
It wouldn't matter if lacquer was polished perfectly smooth - as long as it has no waxes, silicones or other contaminants on it you can spray lacquer on it and the new coat will essentially become part of the previous coat, melting right in. So grit is irrelevant, unless it's SO rough that you'd be trying to fill texture with subsequent coats.
Jupiter
May 27th, 2012, 05:41 PM
I knew that was true for nitro; didn't realize acrylic was like that, too.
Thinlineggman
May 27th, 2012, 09:09 PM
It wouldn't matter if lacquer was polished perfectly smooth - as long as it has no waxes, silicones or other contaminants on it you can spray lacquer on it and the new coat will essentially become part of the previous coat, melting right in. So grit is irrelevant, unless it's SO rough that you'd be trying to fill texture with subsequent coats.
+1. Saved me a few times on a bass build I did last summer. Sanding is only needed on the final coats, or to get rid of orange peel.