kmac
May 23rd, 2012, 09:35 AM
Its either going to be ash or alder. Not sure which body I'm going to keep. I like the feel of grain. Is that weird?
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Can i apply a tru oil finish without grain filler?kmac May 23rd, 2012, 09:35 AM Its either going to be ash or alder. Not sure which body I'm going to keep. I like the feel of grain. Is that weird? Colt W. Knight May 23rd, 2012, 09:41 AM Its either going to be ash or alder. Not sure which body I'm going to keep. I like the feel of grain. Is that weird? Yes you can. kmac May 23rd, 2012, 09:43 AM Also, is tru oil the way to go? Thanks. kmac May 23rd, 2012, 09:44 AM Thanks colt. Colt W. Knight May 23rd, 2012, 09:45 AM Also, is tru oil the way to go? Thanks. The way to go compared to what? What's your ultimate finish goal? kmac May 23rd, 2012, 11:38 AM Other types of oils. Colt W. Knight May 23rd, 2012, 12:08 PM The name Tru Oil is a bit misleading because it is not a true oil finish, its a varnish. It will build to a high gloss and form a very protective hard coating. Most oil finishes do not offermuch protection, and need to be reapplied over time. Also oil finishes get dirty quick ly. What is your desired finish goal? Once we know that, we canpoint you in the right direction. Do you want it to feel like bare wood or just see the pores through the finish? Ricky D. May 23rd, 2012, 12:45 PM I finished an ash body using an oil stain to pop the grain, then one coat of Minwax Honey Pine Polyurethane. The poly doesn't fill the pores, so there's some grain relief on the surface. kmac May 23rd, 2012, 02:09 PM I'm not looking for a high gloss finish. Semi gloss/matte. Colt W. Knight May 23rd, 2012, 06:30 PM I'm not looking for a high gloss finish. Semi gloss/matte. Tru Oil will work for that. What I would do is 1. Finish sand the wood to 400 grit. 2. Blow all the dust away, and inspect for fine sanding scratches. 3. Apply a very thin coat of tru oil, rub in until it starts feeling tacky. Then repeat 4 more times. 4. Allow to dry till the next day. 5. Repeat steps 3&4 (3-4) more times. 6. Allow to dry to one week. 7. Buff with 0000 steel wool. There are lots of ways to apply Tru Oil, and everyone has there own particular technique and procedures. I would suggest testing on some scrap til you get the hang of it. Sounds like a lot of extra work, but I assure you, its well worth the effort. Products like Minwax Wipe On Poly, Formbys Tung Oil, and Danish Oil would also work for your needs, and they come in Satin formulations. For these you would want to finish sand through 400 grit. Thin apply a small amount to a lint free cotton rag, and rub the wood until it becomes tacky. Repeat 3-4 x, let it dry over night, and repeat for a few days till your happy. kmac May 23rd, 2012, 09:03 PM Wow, thanks! Just the info I was looking for. Its OK to stain first I would imagine? Colt W. Knight May 28th, 2012, 05:07 PM Wow, thanks! Just the info I was looking for. Its OK to stain first I would imagine? Im a bit late, but prefer dyes to stains. They typically yield much better results. Ed P May 28th, 2012, 09:45 PM Im a bit late, but prefer dyes to stains. They typically yield much better results. What are the steps for applying a dye first and then tru oil? krisls May 28th, 2012, 09:54 PM Just as a point of comparison I used Danish Oil straight on top of a lightly sanded Ash body for my Tele 'build'. A pinch of dye for a slightly darker honey look might have been nice but I just went straight up. A pic attached if ya's curious. edit : That's about 8 coats over 10 days or so. Kristina |
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