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bunglenutter May 12th, 2012, 07:30 PM I'm at a stage now where I'm thinking of the finish on my Tele body, and I would like it to be satin like the neck. Does anyone have any recommendations for anything from B&Q that provides a good solution? I would prefer not to spray it on as I would be doing it at home and don't have a place for spray stuff!
macaroonie May 12th, 2012, 09:23 PM I'm at a stage now where I'm thinking of the finish on my Tele body, and I would like it to be satin like the neck. Does anyone have any recommendations for anything from B&Q that provides a good solution? I would prefer not to spray it on as I would be doing it at home and don't have a place for spray stuff!
BQ have Ronseal Mattcoat poly varnish. NOT the quick drying version. You need the full fat oil based varnish.
You can achieve a really good finish using this just rubbing it on in thin coats. Used T shirt is fine. Build it up as far as you think you need and allow to cure for a few days at least. Steel wool 0000 grade and then either nothing or lemon oil or briwax clear to finish off.
glenn_N.Ireland May 13th, 2012, 06:21 AM I'm at a stage now where I'm thinking of the finish on my Tele body, and I would like it to be satin like the neck. Does anyone have any recommendations for anything from B&Q that provides a good solution? I would prefer not to spray it on as I would be doing it at home and don't have a place for spray stuff!
Ronseal Diamond Hard Floor Varnish, apply with either a brush or foam applicator let it dry and then flat it with some wet and dry paper.
reapply a few coats to even out the finish, flatting in between coats, and you will have a great finish to buff to a high sheen or flat with wire wool (0000) to a great satin finish
It can be expensive, but it's worth it. a small tin will go a long way. and if you know anyone who has a diamond card i.e over 60 you will get 10% off every wednesday
bunglenutter May 13th, 2012, 07:10 AM Thanks folks. Nice to see someone else from NI here.
Lucretia May 13th, 2012, 10:34 AM What about for a neck? Something you can wipe on and fast drying that adds a bit of tint as sycamore's a bit pale.
Thanks,
Luke.
bunglenutter May 13th, 2012, 01:34 PM I think you can maybe get tinted versions of the stuff the guys mentioned above, though I should really get down there and have a look myself...
Pete McC May 13th, 2012, 04:57 PM B&Q sell vintage oil which is a kind of tung oil that you wipe on, I've done a couple of projects with it and it gives a decent satin finish with no hassle :-)
- another northerner here!
GigsbyBoyUK May 13th, 2012, 05:28 PM Tung oil and Danish oil have both worked for me - both easy to apply and both available at B&Q.
davmac May 13th, 2012, 07:16 PM Tung oil and Danish oil have both worked for me - both easy to apply and both available at B&Q.
+1 and B&Q stock a number of coloured Danish oils too.
http://search.diy.com/search#w=danish oil
bunglenutter May 14th, 2012, 05:24 AM another northerner here!
And there was me feeling special!
Also what's the process for that oil? Did you steel wool it?
davmac May 14th, 2012, 07:29 AM Also what's the process for that oil? Did you steel wool it?
The best results I've had are if you warm everything up and use an old one of those green nylon scouring pads. After the first couple of costs switch to a lint-free rag.
Tuxedo Poly May 14th, 2012, 07:57 AM If you want a vintage neck tint the best polyurethane colour I found is Rustins Pine. Try wiping it diluted with paint thinner. The more layers the darker it gets and you can overcoat with clear to build the layers up.
http://liutaiomottola.com/PrevPubs/WipingVarnish/WipingVarnish.htm
bunglenutter May 14th, 2012, 11:01 AM I have another question some of you may find stupid but I have to ask - how do you have the body sitting as you apply finish? How do you set it on your work surface as you go around it - can you only do the top once the back is dry and you can set it down on it?
I haven't done this before, as you can see.
Pete McC May 14th, 2012, 08:43 PM best not to let the body touch ANYTHING, it takes more than a few hours to harden and you'll ruin it by being careless with it, best to either hang it up on an old coathanger via one of the neck screw holes or else screw a 'paint stick' to it where the neck would be and use that to secure it in a workmate or some such clamping device.
As for applying vintage oil, I just used a clean rag and wire wooled it all when it was hard to smooth it off, guess I'll re-examine my techniques!
bunglenutter May 15th, 2012, 05:01 AM I bought myself a tin of Danish Oil from B&Q and I'm testing it on some scrap poplar to see how it goes - long time between coats!
bunglenutter May 16th, 2012, 06:48 AM Danish oil turned out nice on the scrap wood, particularly after a little rub with steel wool. What grit sandpaper should you work your way up to before applying the oil - 220?
hemingway May 16th, 2012, 06:55 AM I've used floor oil, and I followed the instructions for floorboards, as I wanted a matte finish (apply, leave for 10 mins, wipe off, repeat x3). It's great, as it hardens like a varnish and looks deep and dark. But I wouldn't recommend it on pine or anything too porous.
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