Applying Decals to Oil Finished Headstock?

So i've read about techniques for applying water decals to spray laquer and poly finished necks/headstocks and spraying a clearcoat over it to protect it. But what do you do to cover/protect a decal on a tung oil or Tru Oil finish? Can you spray a clear coat of poly over just the headstock only or what? :?:

So i've read about techniques for applying water decals to spray laquer and poly finished necks/headstocks and spraying a clearcoat over it to protect it. But what do you do to cover/protect a decal on a tung oil or Tru Oil finish? Can you spray a clear coat of poly over just the headstock only or what? :?:

Tru Oil isn't actually an oil finish, its a varnish. It dries to hard glossy protective layer. You can buy Tru Oil in an aerosol can and apply it directly over the decal to the bury the edges, or carefully wipe it on over the decal.

I would not recommend wiping an oil finish over a decal. But you can simply spray lacquer over your headstock, and not the rest of the neck.


I finished the neck on this guitar with Teak Oil. Applied the decal, and sprayed lacquer on the headstock only. Looks and plays great.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/AC%20Wescott/100_3777.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm308/coltwknight/AC%20Wescott/100_3776.jpg

Colt - is that lacquer tinted or not?

Colt - is that lacquer tinted or not?

No it is not. Thats just the color of the teak oil.


I finished a neck with Teak oil this morning. When It dries, I'll take a snap shot for you.

This is tru oil over dacal - if you apply enough tru oil, the edges of decal will disappear - just like lacquer.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AZH_BtcINIg/TtxFmoCYpII/AAAAAAAAAcg/kzSANG7DvD0/s912/IMG_2841.JPG.

Nice work you guys. I didn't know that Tru Oil was available in spray cans... I thought it was a rub-on finish like the Tung oil I've used for gun stocks.

So when you spray a neck with Tru Oil, do you just spray the whole thing fretboard and all, then clean the frets after drying? Does it darken a maple neck or do I need to stain it first for a slightly darker color?

Also, how many coats before applying the decal and how many after?

Appreciate the help!

Is "True Oil" similar to other oil based varnishes such as "WaterLox" , which is a tung oil varnish that I used to get at good hardware stores.... I used it for antique refins in my business.. It comes in gloss, semi-gloss, satin, and maybe even flat..... not sure??? It worked great for antiques... Other similar varnishes go under the general heading of "Antique Oil Varnish." Have you, Colt, [or any one], used any of this, and your assessments, if you please,???? .. Thank you... R

I'm about to use Waterlox for a killer one piece alder body (no grain filling necessary). I tested it on a few scrap pieces and I think it will work nicely.

I'm about to use Waterlox for a killer one piece alder body (no grain filling necessary). I tested it on a few scrap pieces and I think it will work nicely.

Wow!! Let me know how it works for you... and how it turns out... It was very easy for me. I added just a touch of thinner and applied it with a cheese cloth wad. It was very forgiving, and streak free after it dries.. I might use amber shellac as a sealer coat or two on a Tele, because I like the color it imparts and it dries faster. The down side of an oil based varnish like waterlox is that it has to dry in a dust free environment, but after a couple hours it is dry on the surface, anyway. And I like that it darkens a little over time...

Would you put the shellac on first, then Waterlox? I may do that to color the body a bit...the Waterlox doesn't affect the color of Alder that much it seems.

Yes.. shellac first.. The shellac needs to be the "wax free" type, though...... I have read that Zinzer, [at least pronounced that way], is a common brand, and it's ''labeled' use is as a Sealer.... You could brush it on or it comes in an aerosol, too. It dries really fast and It has to be applied fast with a brush, a little thinned. Experiment with a scrap. I use a French polish method, but that's too hard to explain. There are threads on this forum about that, if you want to learn.. But as undercoats/sealer.......brush or spray is fine. I like to have a bowl with some denatured alcohol in it to get the brush wet a bit to go over places that are drying too fast... Good luck. By the way... you could just tint the Waterlox with amber tint and see how that works... Cheaper and easier, I would say....Good luck!

Yeah, I'm curious if using Trans Tint in Waterlox is a good idea or not.

Yeah, I'm curious if using Trans Tint in Waterlox is a good idea or not.

As a Toner – TransTint dyes can be added to any water or solvent based finish including, shellac, water-based products, solvent lacquers, polyester, and two component lacquers and varnishes. It cannot be added to two-component polyurethanes.

The maker of Trans Tint says it doesn't mix well with finishes that are high in mineral spirits (including Waterlox and Tru-Oil). That said, some (including some on this very forum) have tried it and had success. I believe the issue is that the Trans Tint will precipitate out of solution after some time (how long?).

Jeff Jewit (the maker of Trans Tint) says you need a special additive to make it work, which he can supply, but it is expensive, and suggests staining the wood first, then using Waterlox/Tru-oil. Many in this forum use that strategy. One person on this forum (Flyingbanana?) has the additive, and didn't think it was so expensive.

Another suggestion is to experiment with adding the Trans Tint to shellac, then applying Waterlox/Tru-oil over that. If blotching is a concern, seal with plain shellac first. You could spray the shellac/Trans Tint with Preval sprayer.

I should think that there would be a compatible tint of some sort for coloring the Waterlox. I'm going on-line and see..I'm interested too..

I saw a few things online. I think that if you want to use Waterlox, it might be best just to stain the body first with an oil based stain that I would want to thin down with paint thinner to make sure it isn't too dark. You can always apply a little more to get it darker.. Still, I would experiment on scrap wood. You could put a coat of stain on a guitar body in two minutes or so. That's less time than opening the can and mixing the thinner and stain into a tuna can or something...A half pint of stain could do a lot of guitars. Let it dry at least as long as is recommended in directions on back of can..

Nice work you guys. I didn't know that Tru Oil was available in spray cans... I thought it was a rub-on finish like the Tung oil I've used for gun stocks.

It comes in both forms.

So when you spray a neck with Tru Oil, do you just spray the whole thing fretboard and all, then clean the frets after drying? Yes Does it darken a maple neck or do I need to stain it first for a slightly darker color?
Very Slightly, if you want an amber color, its best to dye the bare wood before tru oil application

Also, how many coats before applying the decal and how many after?

Appreciate the help!

You can apply the decal after 1-2 coats after they have dried. When you bury the decal, you just have to use as many as it takes.

Is "True Oil" similar to other oil based varnishes such as "WaterLox" , which is a tung oil varnish that I used to get at good hardware stores.... I used it for antique refins in my business.. It comes in gloss, semi-gloss, satin, and maybe even flat..... not sure??? It worked great for antiques... Other similar varnishes go under the general heading of "Antique Oil Varnish." Have you, Colt, [or any one], used any of this, and your assessments, if you please,???? .. Thank you... R

Never used Waterlox, but it is definitely different from danish oil, tung oil and oil based polyurethanes.

A cabinet maker friend of mine, who also uses Waterlox for cabinetry tells me it is a tung oil based oil varnish. It is very durable, and it is made in a formula for outdoor use also.. I think it is over $100.00 per gallon. The hardware stores that I used to buy a gallon or two from every so often are only carrying quarts now. It takes a day or so to dry between coats, so it ain't good for quick and easy mass production, for sure. And it does smell like paint for awhile.. But for refinishing some antique furniture that had an original varnish finish, it works the best.

Yeah, Waterlox is not cheap. I got a gallon for free so will use it on my pine champ cab and alder Tele build.

I may lay down some amber shellac first depending how my tests go.

You can apply the decal after 1-2 coats after they have dried. When you bury the decal, you just have to use as many as it takes.

Thanks for answering all my questions Colt, I think I have enough info to proceed. :grin:

You guys can go back to your hijack now, interesting stuff. :lol:

I have used gallons of Waterlox. It's very good stuff. When used on alder, the wood tends to get kind of blotchy (same on cherry). If you do an initial coat of shellac, no blotching. Also, Waterlox is pretty dark. It will darken the wood underneath pretty well and you may not need to stain it any more. You can always use amber or garnet shellac first, but you have to be sure to get the dewaxed kind - usually only available in flakes (best kind anyway). I think the only Zinser that is dewaxed is the very clear blond sold as sealer.
Good luck,
Rex

I have a handful of scrap pieces of alder that I plan on applying several test coats of Waterlox...if blotching occurs I will pick up some shellac. Will the Waterlox still darken the wood even with the initial coat of clear shellac?

Thanks.