Fatcat211
May 2nd, 2012, 08:02 AM
I've been working on my first neck build. I wanted to try to install a dual action rod with headstock adjustment. I know heel is easier, but not if you do frequent string changes and adjustments. NYC climate changes by the hour, I set up my guitars 4+ times a year.
I am using:
3/4 Oak home depot blank (got it for free)
1/4 Maple fretboard blank(free too)
Medium jumbo FireWire
Bitterroot dual action truss rod
Tools:
1/4 straight cut single flute bit
Dremel rotozip bit with router base
Irwin Japanese flush cut saw(HD)
Simple plastic miter box
I wasn't picky with the materials as I expected some mess ups and I really wanted to get to the carving part. So I laid out the neck with hewed stock and heel shape as per the tutorial Colt was so kind to provide. Next I routed the rod slot with the 1/4 straight cut bit. then I rough cut it with my jigsaw which I hate, routed the sides with a true edge, sanded the heel and headstock on my makeshift betsander station and drill press. I needed to widen and deepen the rod slot at the headstock to fit the adjustment nut, I did this with my dremel tool using the router base and rotozip bit.
Here's where I got the tricky part. I measured the target headstock thickness and compared that to where the hole would have to be drilled for the rod adjustment. The differential between the top of the neck without the fretboard, and the top of the headstock after thicknessing is not big enough to accommodate an adjustment hole. If the neck was a little thicker (say 1/16th more) it probably would work. Contrary to conventional wisdom here, most of the fender style necks i have measured, have a heel thicker than 1" total. That would make the differential between these 2 planes bigger, and therefore it would accommodate the hole.
The solution I came up with is to continue the 1/4 rod channel into the headstock where the adjustment hole would be. Once the headstock was thinned, it would have a nice valley approximately 3/4 long and 1/8 deep into the headstock. Not the ideal but it would leave with with a functional neck and I can get to the carving. My question is WILL IT WORK? Long winded, I know.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t141/deejayfatcat/bb0ad2a7.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t141/deejayfatcat/5eea7cd3.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t141/deejayfatcat/fa51ed25.jpg
I am using:
3/4 Oak home depot blank (got it for free)
1/4 Maple fretboard blank(free too)
Medium jumbo FireWire
Bitterroot dual action truss rod
Tools:
1/4 straight cut single flute bit
Dremel rotozip bit with router base
Irwin Japanese flush cut saw(HD)
Simple plastic miter box
I wasn't picky with the materials as I expected some mess ups and I really wanted to get to the carving part. So I laid out the neck with hewed stock and heel shape as per the tutorial Colt was so kind to provide. Next I routed the rod slot with the 1/4 straight cut bit. then I rough cut it with my jigsaw which I hate, routed the sides with a true edge, sanded the heel and headstock on my makeshift betsander station and drill press. I needed to widen and deepen the rod slot at the headstock to fit the adjustment nut, I did this with my dremel tool using the router base and rotozip bit.
Here's where I got the tricky part. I measured the target headstock thickness and compared that to where the hole would have to be drilled for the rod adjustment. The differential between the top of the neck without the fretboard, and the top of the headstock after thicknessing is not big enough to accommodate an adjustment hole. If the neck was a little thicker (say 1/16th more) it probably would work. Contrary to conventional wisdom here, most of the fender style necks i have measured, have a heel thicker than 1" total. That would make the differential between these 2 planes bigger, and therefore it would accommodate the hole.
The solution I came up with is to continue the 1/4 rod channel into the headstock where the adjustment hole would be. Once the headstock was thinned, it would have a nice valley approximately 3/4 long and 1/8 deep into the headstock. Not the ideal but it would leave with with a functional neck and I can get to the carving. My question is WILL IT WORK? Long winded, I know.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t141/deejayfatcat/bb0ad2a7.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t141/deejayfatcat/5eea7cd3.jpg
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t141/deejayfatcat/fa51ed25.jpg
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