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Glue for laminating guitar bodies

jackplug
April 23rd, 2012, 12:53 PM
Hi
What glue do you guys use for laminating up guitar bodies. I 'm thinking of using cascamite or polymite as it is harder when set than woodworkers PVA. I intend to join several pieces of a mahogany type of wood pancake style with a maple top (rather like the old gibsons were made) to make tele body. The back would consist of 2x20mm pieces the middle would be 3x20mm and the top 2x7mm maple.

LocustPlague
April 23rd, 2012, 02:35 PM
Titebond original. No need for anything more extreme. The glue joint is stronger than the wood around it and all that.

jackplug
April 23rd, 2012, 02:45 PM
Titebond original. No need for anything more extreme. The glue joint is stronger than the wood around it and all that.

But isn't that the same as normal PVA which a tad rubbery when set? strength isnt the issue here, but how the hardness in the glue could affect resonance in layers, It would interesting to know what the manufactures use nowadays such as ibanez etc who rely on this sort of construction .

Nick JD
April 23rd, 2012, 09:03 PM
Plywood uses urea formaldehyde, IIRC.

Why do you want to make a plywood guitar?

Tuxedo Poly
April 24th, 2012, 04:26 AM
Titebond is an aliphatic resin glue with different characteristics to white PVA

Q: What is the difference between aliphatic and PVA?
A: Both start out with a polyvinyl acetate base polymer. The base polymers are different formulations and they are reacted a bit differently, so that the end product is different. The PVA or basic white glue is softer when it dries and the end bond is not quite as heat resistant, rigid or as strong as the aliphatics. So, the aliphatic resin glues are stronger, more rigid and a little more heat resistant. Neither is water resistant.

Cascamite is overkill as it was originally formulated for boatbuilding due to its waterproof properties. Waterproof glues are not necessary unless you plan to do a Pink Floyd with the guitar.

Tom Pettingill
April 24th, 2012, 11:53 AM
Regular old original Red label Tightbond is fine for gluing up body blanks. More important really is making sure your joints are tight. If your jointing / machining is right, then there is actually very little glue in the joint.

If your dead set on not using Tightbond, then my next choice would be old school hide glue. But keep in mind, regardless of how hard a glue will dry / cure, it is no substitute for a poor fitting joint.

jackplug
April 26th, 2012, 10:20 AM
Titebond seems to be the answer then - thanks